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Everything posted by oneslim
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Thanks for all the Like's Thanks Chis, It's sort of like having a Chevy in the Sixties. We called them 'Belly Buttons', everybody has one. Just because they are popular shows that what a well designed kit this is. You won't regret getting one. Bob W
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Thanks Chuck. Part 10 I'm thinking Caboose Red is kind of toy like. Will use the mix of 15 parts of Caboose Red and 10 Parts of D&RW Box Car Red. More to Come Bob W
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Part 9 All the yard work is caught up for now, (until the next storm). Time spent in the shop working on fairing the inside of the hull and adding the cap rails. This shows the cap rails added and marked for trimming down to 5/16's wide. The marks made with a compass are very hard to make out in this shot. The rotary tool was used to rough out close to the line then the sanding sticks brought the rest to the line. the rotary is MicroLux #86698, I really love this thing. Variable speed and smooth as silk. Not to mention it's small size. The bearings in the one year old Dremel 4000 are noisy and it may not make much longer. View overall of the completed cap rails and a coat of satin wipe on poly. Here one can see the inner sheer plank added to the cap rails. The next step is to paint the cap rails red. Port side. 3/4 Port side. Bow view. Starboard stern. Stern view. More to come. Bob W
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Thanks Chuck, I only messed up one blank. And, Rustyj, and JToma, I appreciate the comments. Bob W
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Part 8 I had a lot of yard work since before the holiday, so just getting back to the workshop. I made the bolsters and fitted them along with the cap rails. Here they show the Starboard side done and the Port side inside marked out Port side outside mark out. View of the Bow. Overall view. Stern View. Inside stern View. I see much sanding in my future. Thanks everyone for the comments and Likes. Bob W
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Thanks Tigresteve Bob W
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Thanks everyone for the comments and 'Likes". Bob W
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Part 7 Well, I applied three coats of satin wipe on poly that was cut 50/50 with white sprits. She looks very good but, I may add one more. I decided to shape the stands while the hull is still attached to the base. Used 400 grit sand paper held down with double sided tape. Very carefully moved back an forth until I had a good fit. The fit at the Bow. The fit at the Stern. Frame centers removed. Fore to aft view. Starboard view. On to more careful sanding. Bob W
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Thanks everyone for the comments and "likes". Bob W
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Thanks CaptMorgan, Hope mine turns out at least as nice as Yours. Bob W
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Part 6 The hull was given a through wipe down with a fresh tack cloth. Then another wipe down with white sprits. I'm satisfied so far with the results. Port Side. Bow View. Stern View. Next will be three or four coats of wipe on satin poly cut 50-50 with white sprits. Bob W
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Thanks everyone for the "Likes". Chuck, This is the best designed "Kit" I've had my hands on. Challenging, but easy to work with. Thanks Bob W
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Thanks everyone for looking in and the "Likes". Part 5 Basic planking done, sanding next, then the wales will be fitted. Bow view. Stern view. Quarter Bow View. Starboard view with wales fitted and sanding started. Stern view with most of the tapering done. Bow view with tapering by chisel. More sanding yet to go. Then it's on to "nailing" the wales. More To Come, Bob W
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Thanks Patrick and Cabbie. Bob W
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Thanks Chuck, and everyone for the likes. Bob W
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Part 4 Working on planking. This is Plank 6, Port, shaped with heat only. Looking aft, Plank 6 Port. Looking down, Plank 6, Port. Plank 6, Port, fitted. Plank 10 Port. Had some difficulty with this plank, broke the tip aft off twice bending with heat only. After remaking a second time I soaked in water and mounted on the boat. Left it over night and it fit just fine then. Plank 10 Port fitted. Thanks for the "Likes" More to come. Thanks for Stopping By BobW
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Thanks for the "Likes" everyone. Richvee, I didn't think that a light would work with the build base blocking access. Thanks Bob W
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Part 3 Lining out after faring down to no char on the frames. I'm using 1/8" artist tape, could not find 1/16". The reference point is the top edge. Stern view. Port side aft. Fore view. I used chuck's templates to mark the bow and stern at the ends of the run. Looking aft. Port garboard strake installed and "nailed", using 10Lb. mono that is 0.26mm diameter and a 0.56mm drill bit. Both garboards "nailed" in. Also showing the spool of 10Lb. mono line used, got it on Amazon. More Later Bob W
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Part 2 The keel has been coated with Wipe On Poly and glued to the frames. Then it was protected with blue painters tape. The stern was stabilized with a clamp and two guides glued to the base. The transom dose not move while fairing. Getting close, still more work to do on fairing. Almost there, a little more on the transom. View of the bow. More Latter Bob W
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Thanks Chuck. Jeff, I used a fresh bottle of Elmer's Rubber Cement, just the smallest amount with a tooth pick. They just about fall off. Any residue is erased with off with a white eraser. Sorry to hear about Your longboat. Hope You get back on track soon. Bob W
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Hello Everyone, I would to join this build group of fellow Medway Longboat builders. I have put my 1:48 scale Longboat on hold so as to better understand the spiling process since the strakes are pre-cut. I had some difficulty with small gaps with light showing through. Following are photos of my build. The build board and keel parts laid out. I have marked the slots in the build board because I got tired of counting them. Had to use tape to hold the guides in, they were loose and would fall out. Keel and stern post ready to join. Stem and Keel. False Keel parts had 1/32" scrape added when attaching to the keel to center them for the rabbit. The long piece glued to the keel. Attaching the Floors to the Top Timbers. Test fitting the frames and Keel. Head on view. Over all as she now stands. More to come. Bob W
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