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ubjs
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ubjs reacted to a post in a topic:
Norden 603 by Scott Crouse - Billing Boats - 1/30
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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ubjs reacted to a post in a topic:
Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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ubjs reacted to a post in a topic:
Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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ubjs reacted to a post in a topic:
Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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ubjs reacted to a post in a topic:
Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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https://artesanialatina.net/en/210-easy
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HMS Victory by ECK - OcCre - 1/87
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Norwegian Sailing Pram by Taken Aback - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Norwegian Sailing Pram by Taken Aback - Model Shipways - 1:12
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ubjs reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by Taken Aback - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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Norwegian Sailing Pram by Taken Aback - Model Shipways - 1:12
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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I'm building a Norwegian Pram myself now, but it's not going well. I don't get along with dory builds at all, I've tried Bluejackets before. To all beginners who are trying to put together a dory and not succeeding, I can console you with the fact that it's much easier to build a regular hull with a little more real wood. I've built a number of hulls, Vasa, Bohuslän, Polaris, Spray, Lilla Dan. They're not fantastic builds but ok. But putting together a Norwegian Pram, as I said, doesn't go well. I don't get along with this thin, soft wood. When it comes to bending the hull parts for the Pram, I recommend the same as Palmerit. I usually bend with an electric plank bender, but it doesn't work for the Pram, you get burn marks right away and also sinks in the wood.
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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It's starting to take hold, now you just have to clear coat as many times as you can with wet sanding in between. :) But it's just a fairly modern plastic body and not a Rolls with real sheet metal so this finish will probably be enough. Is this the best looking F1 with advertising? Of course the Alfas, Silver Arrows and the green Lotuses were better looking. :)
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I'm just copying from google translate. Font=default I'm just copying from google translate. Font= Arial I'm just copying from google translate. Font= Comic Sans
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This is the forum's default setting if you use cut and paste. I can change the font. Or do you prefer this? :)
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I'll reinstall my computer in a while. Will try after that.
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I tried several times for a long time and finally gave up. I have no problems with other forums. Ships of scale works well so no problem for me.
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Thank you. Now I remember that I always have problems uploading pictures to this forum. That's why I posted my build logs on Ships of scale instead.
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How could I search the forum for build logs that I have started?
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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Lotus 72D by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12 - Plastic/Metal - The Legend
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Interesting build. I, like many other children in Sweden, got it as a Christmas present in 1973. I remember the black parts that were treated so that they looked painted when you unpacked the kit. We built many of Tamiya's big F1s in the following years, we learned to use paint sprayers from Badger and run our own electrical and fuel lines in the engine. Everything was thrown away when Ronnie died at Monza in 1978. I've looked at the updated kit but don't know if I would feel good about building it. Luckily, I have plenty of wooden boats on my shelves that need to be built. Another thing I remember from 73 was the fit. We were used to a lot of Airfix and this kit was amazing compared to Airfix. But how good is it today?
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Planking problems
ubjs replied to Mrgj24's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You also have to fair the frames more (bulwarks is something else). As soon the planks dont lay flat on the frames you are beginning to get problems and as we see on your picture the problems get worse for every plank you try to attach. You must bend planks in two directions so they follow the frames. -
I dont like cleaning an airbrush. I have several airbrushes and compressor but today I never use them. Today you could find a lot of colors in spray cans and you get a good result with them. I often use Tamiya primer spray can and then a brush when I paint ships or modelhouses. If you use a primer first its much easier to get a good result with brushpainting. With metal I use what in swedish is kallgalv, its a car primer you use repairing full scale cars. After that I brushpaint.
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Planking disaster
ubjs replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Look at this build log of Polaris and you get some ideas for the second planking. Your first planking looks ok so far. -
Three and four butt shift, I thought it was just for deck, is it also used for planking the hull?
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Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
ubjs replied to OldeManToad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you react to ca-glue, you must be very careful. There is a risk of developing an allergy to approx. I can't be in the same room as someone who glues with ca-glue. I also can't use fully liquid plastic glue, but what is more like a cream, for example from Faller with a narrow metal spout works well for me. So be careful, once you develop an allergy, there is unfortunately no way back.
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