ScottRC

Call it “obsessive compulsive” if you will, but I love it. It’s either the HD photos or the magnifying work light, but my obsessive tendencies are being fed by this hobby. I just couldn’t move on without adding some detail to the windlass. 
I started with adding wood to the spindles and larger pulleys. 

Then came the building of the handles. 

T-Pins make great pump handles. 

I found that the CA glue works as well as solder as suggested in the instructions. 

A bit of wood detail on the T-Pins worked for some realist detail. 

Touched up the bell with some tarnish and the windlass with some rust and off to the next step. 

 

Can someone tell me how and where the Anchor chains were stored once they were brought across the windlass? 
 
I am having trouble finding that bit of detail. 
 
Thanks 😊 
 

As I build this vintage kit, I am finding the metal detail parts are lacking some detail when compared to actual photos of the Morgan as she sits in Mystic. 




The windlass is where I will start developing my micro carpentry skills. 

 
You have got to love plastic wood. It really works well. 

 
I think it’s almost there. Needs some molding on the top plate and some tarnish on the bell. Next the windlass its self. 

I am really enjoying the wood modeling detailing opportunities are endless. 😆

Progress! All be it baby steps. Talk about micro carpentry. Wow! 😎

Thanks for all the nice comments and helpful info. 
Much appreciated 👍
 
The sails and footropes attached on the yards  The how I made them, step by step.
 
A plan with the general idea of the dimensions

The basic material, not the normal papertissue but a slightly harder version.

The PVA glue diluted with water with a drop of brown paint

Cut to size

fold

Moisten with the PVA solution

Shape with tweezers and fingers (then let 24h dry )

The footropes, copper wire bent in to shape

4 holes, drilled in the yard. Here the copper wire goes through and is then glued with CA glue.

footrope ready and the part of the sail that will be glued to the yard is cut flat with ascissors

The rope that normally attaches the sail to the yard.

The sail glued on the yard wit CA glue.
A very light wash with thinned mat black (In the picture it is slightly darker than reality)

The sails are not always in the right shape from the first time. But there is plenty of paper and diluted PVA glue.
Not a good result the first time? Throw it away and make a new one.
 
To be continued
 
 
 

that’s some good advise, I haven’t had any thing break on previous builds but I could see how this could happen all the time, honestly I might start doing this just because 

That is a repair I have gotten quite skilled at.  I broke the bowsprite off my 1/96 scale Constitution and Alabama, and then my Mother did the same on her Thermopylae.  Because of the frequency of breakage on the 1/96 scale ships, with hollow booms, I put a steel rod in the bowsprit boom to make if stiff enough to endure the casual bump while being moved.  

Some more detail of work to be done.
First, overall look at bow where most damage done. Note that hull has split into it's two pieces, flying jib has come loose at top (sail actually broke at tip), and lines are entangled. Also, the ship's boat shown has to be put back on its storage location farther aft.

 
Detail look at bowsprit and jibboom. Note that it was broken once previously and repaired by drilling hole and inserting part of a straight pin which was insufficient to prevent new damage. Pin will need to be straightened and reinserted before gluing again.

 
Now, the aft side of foremast showing tangled lines and unattached shrouds.

 
Finally, the unattached spanker aft.

 

This model is probably 40 years old, many years ago it took a dive off a 7 foot book case and I couldn't bear to part with it. Now I'm going to try and repair it. With my rekindled interest in ship models, it only seems like the right thing to do!
 

 
Here you can see much of the damage done, in addition to the hull halves separating and the deck becoming loose.

Decided to take a short detour and make a temporary building board.  I've been using my keel clamp to good effect and will continue to use it...it's nice to be able to flip it on either side and orient the hull the way I wish...but at some point very soon I'll want a solid base.  Thought about it a little bit and decided to make some cut outs of 1/4" walnut scrap for frame H and 12, sanded them down, covered them with felt, and then bolstered the base with a couple sections of 1/4" square wood for added support (which I'm sure it doesn't need - but what the hell). 
 
The stem socket I made using 3 separate sections of 1/4" walnut glued together in order to make a simple slot at the same angle as the stem where it meets the socket - then glued felt inside the slot.  The felt is more for my sake of mind...I thought the thicker felt (my thanks to the admiral for her donation) would make the fit a bit nicer (it does) and also prevent accidental bruising of the wood.
 
Bonus pic time!!!  😃
 

 

 

 

 
And one little tidbit of interest.  I added a 1/8" strip of wood between the keelson rails (made from 1/4" square basswood dowels) in order to elevate the ship a bit so the rails don't rub or bruise the wood where the garboard strakes connect to the keelson.  Also, I haven't added a temporary false keel to the model because I've been using the keel clamp to attach the wood block connected to the keelson through the mounting holes with nuts/bolts.  But for this temporary building base, the lack of a false keel may leave some risk of damage to that little 'edge' on the keelson near the bow where the false keel begins.  To prevent this, I put an additional 1/32' strip of wood on top of the 1/8" base strip between the rails...so the ship sits square between the rails, with a comfortable margin of space just below the top of the keelson across the entire length of the ship. 
 

 

 
Moving on....to finish up the bulkhead trunnels!!
 

 
 
 
 

Still putzing with the bulkhead trunnels. Kind of fun...oddly relaxing. Got transom and port side done. Working on starboard side...then it’s time for the haircut and sanding. 
 
Reminds me of the movie Hellraiser...
 

 
Moving on...

Ok. Just a repeat of how I made my trunnels. 
 
I used a 20 gauge dispensing needle (20 pack on Amazon...5$). Clip off the plastic connector on the back of the needle and sanded down both sides of the tip using a Dremel disc sanding head.   It makes a "u" shaped head which can core the wood block used to create the trunnels.
 

 
Put it in my little drill press fitted with an x-y table and mini vise. Put in a blank of cedar wood (grain facing up and down). Pics below.  NOTE:  I am not using the drill as a drill - only as a PRESS!!  
 

 

 

 

 
The pic below shows the trunnel depth and where it remains connected to the wood block.
 


After making a few trunnel stacks (think these are about 100 Nails per piece), used my table saw with fine tooth blade to trim off the top - above where the nails are still connected to wood. 


 
These things are dinky!  So used a blunted pin to poke them out into a little jar. 


 

 

 

 
Took my about 40 minutes or so to make about 300 nails. Will make more when I run out...which will be soon!
 
Moving on...to the boring yet also stranegly relaxing part of turning my exterior bulkheads into pin cushions. 
 

 

After my modeling malaise earlier this year, I now seem to want to build Winnie all the time now. 
 
The latest work has been to make up and mount the coamings and gratings, the partners, the stove base and the center deck planking .The coamings, partners and stove base were done using the laser cut parts. The gratings were made from the boxwood grating kits. The bolts in the partners were simulated with black monofilament. I began the planking with the strakes between the coamings and partners.
 
I am now continuing the planking working outward.
 
Bob

I have now added the inner counter planking, using the laser cut pieces, I then made up the margin planks, using the templates and cutting in the scarph joints. After mounting the margin planks, I made up and mounted the waterways, using square strip wood sanded to a quarter round shape. Lastly, sanded the checkerboard floor to size and shape and glued it in place.
 
Next, I will do the coamings and gratings and the other deck parts.
 
Bob

I've been continuing with the part four work. First, I did the cabin paneling, using the laser cut parts. This required some fiddling, but I believe turned out okay. Then, I added the second layer of planking above and below the ports. Lastly, I painted the bulwarks red, using Modelmaster Insignia Red acrylic. On reflection, I wish that I had changed the sequence and done all of the planking and painting before the cabin paneling. I found the masking for the painting to be unexpectedly difficult.
 
I did one other item: I completed and mounted the quarter gallery roofs.
 
Next, I will do the margin planks and the inner counter planking.  

I was fortunate enough to get part four parts from the first batch. They arrived three days after ordering, on my birthday (81, for anyone interested). A nice birthday gift to myself. I was eager to go and have done the following so far: the sub-deck planking; the beams and carlings; the false deck; and the first layer of the bulwark planking. I also made up the two coamings that go over the sub-deck openings, just to see how they looked.
 
Although my installation of the false deck doesn't look particularly neat, all of the laser etched lines and the center line match up perfectly, and there should be no problems later on. I've also tested the deck clamps for the future fit of the deck beams and they should be right on. Now, it's on to the cabin paneling, the   second layer of bulwark planking and the bulwark painting.
 
Bob

I've now completed all of chapter three with the exception of the fancy rail on the Q gallery roofs. I've decided to leave that for later, to protect them. 
 
The work completed included the moldings and friezes on the hull sides and the remaining work on the transom: painting; moldings; the cove; window frames and glazing; the castings; and the fluted columns. Let me start by saying that after all of the hull planking, this was fun to do.
 
The hull moldings and friezes were relatively straight forward. The laser cut scrolls were a godsend. Thank you, Chuck. I applied Wipe-on Poly to the friezes, as well as the moldings, and I like the result.
 
Moving to the transom, I chose to paint the transom, rather than use the printed paper piece. I first used cerulean blue, but didn't like the color match to the friezes, and started experimenting. What I finally came up with was teal, tinted with cerulean blue, which I found to be a much better match to my printouts. After painting, I added the upper edge molding, using the laser cut pieces. Next, I mounted the window frames and glazed them with Micro Kristal Klear, as I had done with the Gallery windows. I then made and mounted the cove and the connecting moldings above and to the side of the outer false windows. At this point, I cleaned up, shaped and tinted the castings, using fruitwood gel stain. The castings were then mounted , in the order suggested by Chuck. I think that they look great. Another big "thank you" to Chuck for providing a beautiful way to do something that would otherwise have been impossible for me. The transom was completed by making up and mounting the fluted columns, using the laser cut parts and strip wood.
 
It seems that I will now need to take a pause until the Chapter Four parts and printout are available. I don't mean to be pushy, but any idea when that will be, Chuck?
 
Bob

After completing the planking, the first thing I did was to remove the hull from the base brackets and then remove the brackets themselves. My preferred method for permanent mounting of a model is to use brass rod drilled and glued through the keel. The rod is inserted into brass tubing drilled and glued into the base. Rather than use a cradle, I chose to install the rods now and insert them into tubing drilled into the construction base board. It is strong and stable, and the hull is easily removable, if required.
 
After this mounting, I moved on to the transom. After marking and sanding, it was glued into place.The windows were all test fitted, but only the gallery windows were permanently installed, with their laser cut "glass" and their backing pieces with theft sides painted black. I then did the upper counter planking, including the thickening planking on the fore sideThe final work was to add the capping pieces to the top of the transom.
 
Quarter galleries next.
 
Bob

That looks very good Bob.   You are certainly moving along.  I might point out a possible issue however.   The sheer at the the stern is a bit high in relation to the top of the transom.  I am not sure if your planking run just slopes up too much for the last 5 or 6 inches of the run or if your transom fillers were placed too low.  Probably a little bit of both.  You might want to tweak both at some point.  This will probably affect how your qgalleries will end up as well as the railings atop the quarter deck.  Check out the relationship between the two in the photo below.
 

 
Chuck

I've now completed the upper planking of the second (starboard) side. It has been sanded and a coat of Wipe-on Poly applied. As could be expected, it went on easier and better than the first side. I still had to make small adjustments to get the plank widths right, particularly in the area of the hances.
 
 Following Chuck's sequence, the next work will be the drop plank and the first two strakes below the wales.
 
Bob

The horde (seven children and grandchildren and two dogs) have left my house. Time for a post.
 
I have completed the port side upper planking. Remarkably, at least to me, after making a few small adjustments to the framing, the planking worked out as it was supposed to, using the planking widths called for in the plans. I must admit that I chickened out on the tabs at the gunports. All in all, although I'm not entirely satisfied with the result, I am not really dissatisfied with the overall appearance of the planking. I will try to do a bit better on the starboard side. 
 
The photos show the planking after sanding and the application of a coat of Wipe-on Poly.

It's been a while since I lasted posted on Winnie. A good bit of progress has occurred. To begin with, I completed framing at the stern with the addition of the horizontal filler pieces and final fairing. I then added the lower counter planking, using the laser cut pieces. After that, I did the first layer of planking for the wales and black strake. The wale planking was begun by using a  batten to mark the line of the bottom of that planking. Lastly, I painted the gunports red, in preparation for doing the upper planking..
 
The upper planking will be the next order of business..
 
Bob

Before doing the bollard timbers, I started fairing the interior of the bulwarks, as suggested by Chuck. As much of a pain as the hull exterior was to fair, the interior seems even worse. Using chisels, a Dremel sanding drum and sandpaper, I started at the bow and continued back about halfway, before deciding that was enough for now.
 
I then moved on to the bollard timbers. It is fortunate that Chuck has provided a number of extra blanks in the laser package, as I needed all of them. Even then, my work was hardly perfect.  Little errors would occur and be exposed immediately by photography. What you will see are the best that I came up with.
 
Bob
 
Bob

I completed the basic framing this week by doing the stern framing, the quarter gallery framing, the stern planking filler, the quarter deck sheer strip and the laser cut hance pieces. Although the planking filler wasn't mentioned at this point, it seemed an appropriate time to add it. The laser cut window guide pieces certainly made the stern framing construction easier. I was not happy or satisfied with the shaping and fairing at the counter and under the stern framing, but decided to leave it until I get to the counter planking, when the correct shaping become should more apparent, and I can make adjustments accordingly. Now, it's time to tackle those tricky looking bollard timbers.
 
Bob

Moving along. I've done the gunport framing and faired the upper hull area again. The only tricky part of the framing was making sure that the lower sill pieces followed the line that was set earlier by the batten. The ports were set, as suggested by Chuck, using spacers for both vertical and horizontal dimensions. Sawing out the bulkheads went fairly smoothly. After completion of the framing it was time to sand the exterior fair again. I've done so much sanding on this hull, I feel like I have sandpaper attached permanently to my hands.
 
Now, it's on to the stern framing.
 
Bob

I have spent the better part of 10 days fairing the hull. It has been hard work. Some observations:
 
1) This hull is a monster. Not only is it large, it is very heavy.I have often worked in my lap in the past. That is barely possible here.
 
2) There are a very large number of bulkheads ( a very good idea), and they are relatively wide, providing a large surface area to be sanded. It simply takes  a lot of time.
 
3) I have faired  the hull well enough (I think) to run a fair batten for the gunport framing, but I likely will do another sanding of the the full hull when I do the fairing of the gunport framing and add the stern framing.
 
Chuck: I  have a question going forward. The laser cut parts for the curved forward portion of the port framing are not the same length for the top and bottom, seemingly contrary to the plans and the model. Am I missing something?
 
Bob