ScottRC

Thank you, both of you.
 
And now a little mini update.
The portholes are closed on the port side. At the bow.
 

 
I noticed another error in the model amidships. Three more portholes were missing from the upper row of casemates.
 

 
They cannot be seen in the pictures from back then. Most of the images of the ship are of poor quality and taken from a great distance. There are only some in a decent resolution very close up from the front. But of course you can’t see the casemates from the side.
But on the museum ship. And since I can’t imagine that they were added later, I adopted them.
 

 
And the portholes at the stern.
 

 
 

Off to the dry dock with the Mikasa.
 

 
There’s enough space in here on the port and starboard sides to protect the ship while you’re tinkering without it becoming too big and unwieldy..
 

 
This means it can be safely laid on its side, for example to work on the portholes.
 

 
I can also attach sheet pile walls of different heights to further increase the protection at the top.
 

 
Let’s attach the first large etched parts. The anchor supports…
 

 
…and the doors at the rear. The ship also had electrical cables all around the back. What purpose they had, however, is unknown to me. It will not have been demagnetizing cables.
 

 
In another forum a user asked me how I work with acrylic etched part glue.
 

 
I would like to show this using the rain deflectors of the portholes as an example.
We need an old brush, some paper towel, a little water and the glue. I dilute this until it has about the consistency of buttermilk.
 

 
Then I draw a guide line with adhesive tape to attach the etched parts neatly and straight.
 

 
 
Now I put a ring of glue around the porthole.
 

 
Then in with the etched part. The big advantage is that you have a very long time to properly align the component. Completely in contrast to superglue.
 

 
After I have aligned it, I pick up the excess glue again with the brush that has been cleaned in water and dried on the paper towel.
 

 
I can easily remove any edges of the glue with a dampened brush. This is also not possible with superglue.
 

 
The slight shine of the dried glue can no longer be seen after painting.
 

 
And so you get rain deflectors on the portholes like a string of pearls, which are also glued on extremely neatly.
 

Thank you again Kirill, and sorry for the delay in answering. 
I tend not to use models or painting as reference, so I have looked for more picture of real ships in the same condition. 
Here is a collection of James Craig, Europa and Star of india:
 


 

 

 
 

 
As you can see, they all seem to match my model and I’m more and more convinced to present the cutty sark with the thack on the windward. 
I will further shape the sails, but this configuration appears to be vastly more frequent than the original one. Thank you for helping me to change my mind about it! 
Lastly a comparison between my Cutty Sark and the Star of India:
 

Not too bad in my opinion, surely better than the previous one!
 
 

Progress...

First coat of paint…

Cheers 🍻 

That little Red Jcket is looking extremely well.  Nice attention to detail and good wood working quality/skills.
 
I'm enjoying your build log.
 
Rob

Channels…

Drilling for the Masts and Bow Sprit… No glue at this time. 

Ready to seal and paint the hull and bulwarks. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 

Lower Deadeyes…

…and so it begins, the “smallest” deadeyes. 

Pin Rails are going to be so much fun. 😜

Bulwarks and Rails continued…


Placing Bulwark Stanchions…

Placing the Monkey Rail…

Removed the kit supplied taffrail…

Building up Taffrail with strip wood 1/64 x 1/32. 

Taffrail base completed… 

Monkey Rails completed…

Placing water ways… 

Monkey Rail, Main Rail and Sheer completed. 
 
Onwards… 🍻
 

Bulwarks, Rails, etc…

 Cheers 🍻 

Here they are with a bit of shading. Not sure if you can see the difference between these and the way they were in the earlier post, but to me they look more realistic.

And I had neglected to post photos of the hatch covers up to now, so here they are. A pair for the stairs up from the owners' cabin
 

And covers for the cargo hatches - one in place, the others not yet added (so I can see the mast steps to locate the masts when the time comes).

I've weathered the hatch covers and added a bit of "rust" to the hinges, so she looks like a ship that's see a bit of use.
 
Currently I'm trying to chase up some  'acrylic matt medium' on Druxey's advice to glue the reinforcing strips to the silkspan sails. But I'm in a bit of a quandary as to the difference between  'acrylic matt medium' and  'acrylic matt pouring medium' (considerably cheaper, but perhaps not right for the job).
 
Steven

Thank you, Scott, for nice words. As I wrote earlier, in early stage of build I have big mistake which can not be resolved, and which I noticed after mounting 4000 foil strips as mynz metal under water line, except to start model from begining. Deck and deck rails are not paralell ... deck fence has different random height ... 
So, then I decide to overdetail Her to turn off attention of anybody who will se Her.
And that is simply - that.
Beside that, making this little beasts is chalenge! And fun.
All the best.
Nenad

Hi Nenad,
I am back for a short visit here on MSW and am so glad to see your back on your scratch build.  Your metal work is coming along fine. She looks so good with all her furniture on the deck and now her masts are going up.  
 
Regards,
Scott

Details

Painting

Almost ready for cleaning and white paint

VID_20240324_142002.mp4  

All of them
 

Cap Band,, step by step
Remarks
Strip of Cu foil on start is spiral, with ends INSIDE
Dont forget to apply thiny foil of soldering on surface of strip.
1. Cut a strip of copper foil of the required width, long enough to wrap twice around the mast. Sand well
2. Bend the tape around both masts in a spiral, so that the ends of the tape are on the inside
3. remove from the mold, adjust to the correct dimensions and tighten so that it does not unroll, then solder the assemblies. Apply a thin layer of solder paste to the surface of the ring to strengthen it
4. Solder the foil over as a cover
5. Remove excess material
6. Drill the holes for the hooks

Progressing
All three nests got plankung with light weathering, so, they are done! Exept painting in one of next stage..

When you have not enough hands ...
Second mast almost done

More mast details

All three nests - metal works done.
Holder for yard on fore lower mast done. This was tricky. Made from Cu foil 0.3mm which is harden wirh thin layer of soldering on surface.

Old saying: "when the hill won't come to man, then man will come to the hill"
So, if soldering do not work , super-glue will work

Sometimes you, just, don't think (and we know that thinking is too difficult and the devil's work!)
The mast nests on my model have a lower metal structure over which planking is laid.
Pictures 1 and 2 show what this is all about.
Come on...
I struggled to do the lower structure, after 2 hours of drilling and milling finally satisfied, all that was left was to adjust the hole for the mast, when ... hell!
It can not get in!
The genius forgot that because of the earlier story about the hooks, he made the masts thicker by about 1mm, which required me to make the nest a little bigger.
So ... let's start from the beginning.

Rings with rings and pins at the bottom of fore mast. Little pins are unusuable on this scale, and it overlays my skill, so I made two rings with rings, a bit larger and simplydied. It would not be visible when ropes come over one day