
Lapinas
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- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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- 93 replies
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- santa maria
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I just ordered metal pedestals from Amati and I am waiting for oak baseboard It will take a while... Can't really do anything because, I want to glue masts when ship is fixed in place...
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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I have received this baseboard from Amati and the quality just isn't there for using it without fully painting it. The wood is very orange and there are two distinct colors of it... I have tried staining it, but no stain I have or I am able to buy is able to cover the orange shade. I am going to put this model on hold until I am able to source the baseboard locally. Want to fix it in place before gluing on the masts..
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
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- 93 replies
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A little update here. Finished rudder by adding a loop: Made some loops for fixing the boat rope: Glued the boat in place: Added boat rope attachment loops: Added ropes to fix the boat in place: Glued the stairs in their appropriate places:
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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Really stunning work! Can't wait to see how it will look finished. For next build I suggest buying silicone wires (if not using it already, can't really tell from the video). They are much more flexible and also head resistant! Soldering iron will not melt the isolation. I use these wires when working on my electronic projects and I like them a lot. Also, I would like to thank you for making all these videos. They are a huge help for a beginner like me.
- 156 replies
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- marisstella
- marisstella model ship kits
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And another little update. I was working on crows nest. Walnut was surprisingly hard. I had to enlarge hole at the bottom for the main mast and drill holes for block holders: I have finished the bottom of the main mast: Then started work on anchors: "Third hand" tool that I originally bought for soldering and working on my racing drones is very useful when working on the model ships: I will figure out how to add "weight" to the anchor rope later Glued blocks to deck in various places:
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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Nano sized update. According to the Amati, underside of the forecastle meant to me a bare plywood. Had to cover it with walnut strips: Did some block assemblies that attaches to deck. For all future builders I suggest enlarging holes in blocks to 0.95-1mm so it is easier to pass thread through it when rigging. I have also drilled like 14 holes on the deck for various parts placement. I am trying to prepare everything before masts are glued in place and access is still very good.
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
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Can tell you a secret - I have covered metal boat with wood strips. It was way easier to make it that way.
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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A little update here Did a boat from the actual wood instead of the metal one: The actual size of this boat is quite small and I got all my fingers covered in superglue... Some glue got on the boat too. Will sand that down later. I am preparing this ship for rigging: Glued and painted all stairs: Worked on masts: That's all for now
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
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I have not observed plywood pieces being out of dimensions as much. It need like 1-2 mm of sanding tops. I did the sanding using regular sand paper. Since in your case the situation is slightly different I suggest taking part of the plywood from the center, and then sand the outer edge closely following the shape of the ship. It will reduce your troubles in the future stages. Keep on the progress! EDIT: I just saw your update while it took me 2 hours to finally post my message! Looking great! It is really satisfying seeing the ship taking the shape.
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Thank you guys for comments! I think your approach is good! One of the reasons why I have chose to taper first planking was to train & prepare for the second one. This was my first planking job ever and I wanted to make it look good.
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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Good morning! A little update from me. Glued on doors+hinges on the 2th deck: Glued all vertical hull reinforcements, they still need to be sanded a bit: Added steps for reaching forecastle: I am getting closer and closer to the most scary part of the ship - sails and rigging
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
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I think you should try Olfa knifes.. Both AK-4 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Olfa-AK-4-Professional-scalpel-comfort/dp/B0027IVSXG) and AK-1 (https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-AK-1-Standard-Knife-Blades/dp/B0006SJAXE/) are extremely good. I refuse to use anything else If you order it please make sure to include spare blades in your order. My favorite blade: https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9161-Art-Blade-25-Pack/dp/B0006O87T6?ref_=ast_sto_dp Using Olfa and anything else is day & night difference to me.
- 175 replies
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- hanse kogge
- shipyard
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A little update here. Did some work on vertical support structures on the sides of the ship (I am pretty sure these wood columns has their specific name as everything in the ship has ) Each vertical column is made from 9-11 parts - depending on length.
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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Thank you guys! Yes, I had to bend planks both ways. To bend planks I was using simple electrical iron... I do not see this technique advertised enough Basically I wet the plank, turn the electrical iron at the max setting and press down and twist. You will need to "twist" with iron in multiple places, I tend to use just the tip for the twisting motion. I saw many unnecessary complex and time consuming ways to bend the blanks laterally, but using the electrical iron is the best one I think For other simple bends (non lateral) I use home made form-a-strip tool (https://store.amatimodel.com/en/tools-and-equipment-parts-per-model/product-form-a-strip-b7381.html) and soldering iron. I found said lateral plank bend technique on some obscure russian video on youtube I can no longer find unfortunately. Video is 100x better explaining it. WARNING: this technique is not safe for your electrical iron since it left marks on the ironing surface. Will have to buy a new one for clothes. Also, modelshipworld has collected excellent books about planking techniques. I suggest reading it. Youtube videos can help you a lot too.
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
- amati
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Wow this build is out of this world. I was amazing to see difficult ship body assembly, but when you started hand carve ships crew...
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Hey, After a while an update from me Made canons. I have replaced metal canon carriages with wooden ones and painted canons black with acrylic paint: Assembled anchors: Little fences to be placed on the deck: Water pump was missing from the kit, had to order from Amati store. I also ordered some walnut 0.5 x 4 mm planks, because with my modifications there is not enough of them to finish the ship: Something on the main deck: Rudder (will add nails later): Tried to attach rudder to the ship temporary: Cut planks to size that will hold upper deck. Rotary tool was a great helper shaping plank with curved surface: I do not like how staining turned out with those (mistake #1), so I have sanded those a bit (mistake #2). If you were looking attentively you can spot that plank with curved surface is made from different wood - found some scrap walnut in the kit: When supporting structure was glued in place overall view got a bit better. For all future Santa Maria builder here: be very attentive with placements of these planks. Attached upper deck: Started building structure for captains deck (I think this is the name, sometimes I get very confused with all the names): Dry fit and Quality Assurance inspector: Attached backside: I absolutely hated making side panels for upper decks. You need to glue it 0.5 x 4 mm planks side by side, messy job: Planked captains HQ, glued sidewalls in place and more: When working on railings / etc I recommend making spacer templates in order to keep spaces equal and planks parallel: I have found no other to way to glue it and keep it tidy: Vertical 2x2mm planks glued to the sidewall: Prepared forecastle deck: After railing are attached it started to look like a real ship: I mean really: That last photo really made me clean all the glue spots from the deck that I was not able to notice before... Anyway, I found out that really close up photos are a really good way to spot any defects that could go unnoticed otherwise. So at this time the ship is at this stage: Honestly, I had no idea it will be that hard to build model ships and as rewarding at the same time
- 93 replies
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- santa maria
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