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Lapinas

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    Vilnius, Lithuania

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  1. I just ordered metal pedestals from Amati and I am waiting for oak baseboard It will take a while... Can't really do anything because, I want to glue masts when ship is fixed in place...
  2. I have received this baseboard from Amati and the quality just isn't there for using it without fully painting it. The wood is very orange and there are two distinct colors of it... I have tried staining it, but no stain I have or I am able to buy is able to cover the orange shade. I am going to put this model on hold until I am able to source the baseboard locally. Want to fix it in place before gluing on the masts..
  3. Dry fitted the "eagle" head to make sure that the hole I drilled fits perfectly:
  4. A little update here. Finished rudder by adding a loop: Made some loops for fixing the boat rope: Glued the boat in place: Added boat rope attachment loops: Added ropes to fix the boat in place: Glued the stairs in their appropriate places:
  5. Really stunning work! Can't wait to see how it will look finished. For next build I suggest buying silicone wires (if not using it already, can't really tell from the video). They are much more flexible and also head resistant! Soldering iron will not melt the isolation. I use these wires when working on my electronic projects and I like them a lot. Also, I would like to thank you for making all these videos. They are a huge help for a beginner like me.
  6. And another little update. I was working on crows nest. Walnut was surprisingly hard. I had to enlarge hole at the bottom for the main mast and drill holes for block holders: I have finished the bottom of the main mast: Then started work on anchors: "Third hand" tool that I originally bought for soldering and working on my racing drones is very useful when working on the model ships: I will figure out how to add "weight" to the anchor rope later Glued blocks to deck in various places:
  7. Nano sized update. According to the Amati, underside of the forecastle meant to me a bare plywood. Had to cover it with walnut strips: Did some block assemblies that attaches to deck. For all future builders I suggest enlarging holes in blocks to 0.95-1mm so it is easier to pass thread through it when rigging. I have also drilled like 14 holes on the deck for various parts placement. I am trying to prepare everything before masts are glued in place and access is still very good.
  8. Can tell you a secret - I have covered metal boat with wood strips. It was way easier to make it that way.
  9. A little update here Did a boat from the actual wood instead of the metal one: The actual size of this boat is quite small and I got all my fingers covered in superglue... Some glue got on the boat too. Will sand that down later. I am preparing this ship for rigging: Glued and painted all stairs: Worked on masts: That's all for now
  10. I have not observed plywood pieces being out of dimensions as much. It need like 1-2 mm of sanding tops. I did the sanding using regular sand paper. Since in your case the situation is slightly different I suggest taking part of the plywood from the center, and then sand the outer edge closely following the shape of the ship. It will reduce your troubles in the future stages. Keep on the progress! EDIT: I just saw your update while it took me 2 hours to finally post my message! Looking great! It is really satisfying seeing the ship taking the shape.
  11. Thank you guys for comments! I think your approach is good! One of the reasons why I have chose to taper first planking was to train & prepare for the second one. This was my first planking job ever and I wanted to make it look good.
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