AnobiumPunctatum
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Tadeusz43 in Gjoa by Tadeusz43 - FINISHED - scale 1:100 polar exploration ship
Gjoa is smallest of polar ships.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gj%C3%B8a
For the Gjoa I chose solid hull made as “ bread and butter”.
The material is HDF board 6 mm thick and soft wood for top section.
Top section has a greater thickness which allows the cutout the desk line with proper sheer and camber.
Top section
Hull planking with strips of veneer
Tadeusz
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Tadeusz43 in Gjoa by Tadeusz43 - FINISHED - scale 1:100 polar exploration ship
Hi,
The work progress cannot be impressive but at the same time working on three models
Mast hole drilling
Painting
Tadeusz
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Tadeusz43 in Gjoa by Tadeusz43 - FINISHED - scale 1:100 polar exploration ship
Hi,
After a long break, I go back to modeling.
Meantime, my workshop was twice flooded with water from a broken pipe
fortunately there was no damage tools, machines and models.
I am working on equipment today installed a fife rail, pin rails along the bulwark,
windlass, pump and winch as also deckhouses, skylights and companionway.
Tadeusz
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to NJQUACK in 1776 English Sloop by NJQUACK – FINISHED - 1:75
Hi,
This project is finally drawing to a close. For a stand I’m using a piece of drift wood. I’ve also added a
few characters. Thank you all.
Walter
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Stuntflyer in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Fantastic work, Chuck
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mmdd in 1776 English Sloop by NJQUACK – FINISHED - 1:75
Very nice little model. Well done
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mmdd in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Really wonderful, Ed. I love your precision. It looks so absolut easy but is so very difficult to reach.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Fantastic work, Chuck
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Fantastic work, Chuck
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in Triton cross-section by tkay11 (aka Tony) - FINISHED
Very fine cutting by hand. I've allways problems with doing this job manually
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Alan Cabrera in MONTAÑES by Amalio
Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Fantastic work, Chuck
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Obormotov in MONTAÑES by Amalio
Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Triton cross-section by tkay11 (aka Tony) - FINISHED
Very fine cutting by hand. I've allways problems with doing this job manually
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to tkay11 in Triton cross-section by tkay11 (aka Tony) - FINISHED
The hanging knees
I spent some time thinking how to make the hanging knees. The most helpful thing was to cut the shapes using traced outlines of the knees from the plans, and see how they matched the dimensions on the model.
This showed me that I had to make the knees slightly thicker (siding dimension) and add a bit of height.
I then measured the thicknesses of the wall at the beam clamps and the lower plank strakes, which showed me by how much I had to adjust the steps. I transferred these measurements to the CAD outlines.
At first I had thought I’d use a scroll saw to cut out the hanging knees. On reflection I thought this would not allow the very fine cutting needed for shaping the steps of the knees against the planks.
I also experimented with cutting the steps out with a chisel, but this was a total failure.
In the end I realised that the best way to do it was in fact the simplest and easiest – using a jeweller’s saw!
This turned out to be fairly quick and accurate, with just a little bit of trimming to do with a barrette file.
The only slightly tricky knees to do were the ones against the beam arms, since they have to be angled with respect to the hull wall, and shaped against the curve of the arms. However, even that didn’t take up too much time.
I’ve shown these aspects in the pictures below.
Now I can think about the extent to which I will plank the deck.
Tony
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Thank You so much guys. Today I finished the topmast. Its all painted and the entire mast is now completed.
Rather than start on the standing rigging with the pendants, shrouds and stays....I will be building the boom and gaff first. On this model it will be much easier to rig the finished gaff and boom first before tackling the shrouds and stays. This way I wont have to reach behind the standing rigging to rig them. Especially the where the rigging is close to the lower mast at deck level.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color. After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture: David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches
Next step will be the after deadwood.
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