AnobiumPunctatum

Count me in, Dan. I'll follow your log with great interest

Count me in, Dan. I'll follow your log with great interest

While doing some more clean up in my room I came across some extra deck beams that I had already steamed and bent for the camber on the deck. 
They were still in good shape so this saved me some time. I had seen on other builds where the decks ere build piece by piece on the model and other where the
deck was built as a unit off the model then installed.   I will try to build mine on the modle piece by piece. My scale is big enough so it should allow me the room to work.
 
Installed the firts beam. glued and pined it into place. I used a hot glue gun to temporarly place some blocks on the beam so as I would have a place for my clamps to work.

 
I then pulled me som dowels to .040 dia to pin them in place on either side.  These went all the way through the beam and in to the side boards. Dry fitted the dowel then
applied glue, worked it in and removed the excess. This should hold them in place varly well.  (I hope)
 

 

 

 
 

After the drawing works it was time to make sawdust.
 
First part is the keel, which is a little bit tricky. The keel has a light curvature and the joints are perpendicular to the base line.
I cut some small stripes with my cirular saw, make the joints and glue the parts together. Next I added the parts for the stem.
The picture shows the step on the building board. I use Tamiya Tape to avoid that the keel glues on the paper during the build.

 
The next pictures show the complete assembled backbone for the small vessel,

 
the stem with with the changed layout of the parts,

 
the keel and the rising wood,

 
and the stern post with the after deadwood.

 
The next steps are cutting the rabbet, the keelson and the building board. Then I can start with the frames.
 

I have completed assembly and dry fit the keelson, a little fairing to be done. I am also looking into some different wood for the planking.
 
I do not see pillars in the cross section plans, but I see pillars of varying numbers on other builds?  I am curious where other builders got their ideas.  Any additional info on the pillars, spacing/design would be appreciated.  I would like to mill holes for them before installing the keelson.
 
Thanks,
Tony
 
 

CAPTAIN PHILLIPS’ PATENT CAPSTAN
 
To this point, my build log has included detailed notes about my research into Franklin's ships, and is largely a mirror of my blog, Building HMS Terror. While I know some followers have enjoyed my research notes (thanks for all the kind words of encouragement), others find them tedious, and recreating them here every time I finish a part has become quite time consuming. 
 
 
For the remainder of my build log, I've decided to do something a little different, and keep this primarily as a photo essay of my build. I'll continue to post research notes, but those will only appear on my blog. This change will also allow me to post a few more photos here, for those who want to see more wood and metal. 
 
 
So, with that formality out of the way, here is my attempt to build plans and a model of an 1839 era improved capstan. For those interested in the historical research I conducted, please consult my blog!
 
 

An 1839 era Phillips, capstan, as I believe it may have been 
configured for use on HMS Erebus and Terror.
 

Cutting the capstan components on an Epilogue laser cutter. 
 

The completed pieces. 
 

Vellum was added to enhance the joints of the capstan.
 

The assembled capstan before sanding. 
 

Sanded to shape. 
 

Drilling the bolt locations. 
 

The completed drumhead. Some Phillips' capstan models 
show lined sockets, so I added boxwood liners. 
I admit that it was primarily an aesthetic choice. 
 

I cut the drumhead plate from an unused pipe fitting which I flared to the right size. 
 

I filed a lip into the plate by hand. 
 

I cut the pawl rim (ring) out of brass plate using a jeweler's coping saw.
 

I filed each stop by hand, after carefully scoring the brass
 

The pawl rims were each made from pipe fittings flared to the precise diameter. 
 

The pawl rim prior to soldering and sanding. 
 

The piece following soldering. I used  copper solder for the first
time on this piece - despite being very dirty, it worked well. 
 

To maintain the proper curvature, I cut the pawls from a copper fitting. 
 

The pawls cut roughly to length. 
 

Bolt holes were drilled before shaping. 
 

Each pawl was filed and shaped by hand. 
 

The completed pawl rim (ring) and pawls.
Two traits unique to Phillips' capstans can 
be seen here. First, the pawl rim was bolted through
each stop, rather than in the spaces.
Second, Phillips' capstans had between six and 
eight pawls, while earlier models typically had four. 
 

The pawlhead. 
 

The completed pawlhead with the top plate soldered in place.
Contemporary models show that the pawlheads on 
Phillips' capstans were made entirely of iron. 
 

Dry fitting the metal pieces. The pawls need some thinning here. 
 

Pieces prior to finishing and assembly. 
 

Blackening the metal parts. 
 

The metal pieces after blackening, buffing, and sealing 
(I use Krylon matte coat as a sealer). 
 

The completed capstan. The wooden pieces have been
treated with Minwax wipe-on poly. 
 
Detail of the pawl rim and pawls. 
 

The drumhead (the drop pins indicate it is in direct-drive mode).
 

Detail of the lower drop pins and drumhead plate (I couldn't find scale
chain small enough to model that feature). 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects his capstan, recalling his good times with  Parry. 

Hello all, here is another update.
Regards 
Alexandru

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 27 – Completing the Lower Hull Planking
 
Installing all this 6-7” wide planking over the entire hull – at least on the starboard side – was a long slog, but I did enjoyed seeing it progress to completion.  In the first picture, the unplanked area is shrinking.  At this stage the focus was on taking it to the point where one last full-sized plank would just fit into the remaining space left for it to complete the job.
 

 
Getting that last space to come out to a 7” opening with parallel sides involved some planning in the placement of the dropped strakes that were necessary both fore and aft.  The next picture shows the method I used for setting points where dropped strakes butt into the previous plank.
 

 
I prefer to mark these on the actual work based on the as-built situation rather than try to draft complex planking plans.  The method I use is thoroughly described in the book, so I will only summarize it here.  In the picture a gauge is being used to mark the point where just enough room is available for some number of full-width planks.  This gauge was made by gluing strips of plank to a slip of paper.  The strip was slid along the opening until one of the lines coincided with the edge of the installed planking.  At these points two strakes will become the width of one – by notching the installed strake on a taper back to the last point and tapering the new plank to fit.  All of these points were marked then later re-marked to make any readjustments as planks were installed. This is a simple process that works very well.  I used it on my Victory model, Naiad and both Young America versions – for internal and external plank.
 
In the next picture the gap is narrowing further and the placement of dropped strakes is becoming more critical.
 

 
In the picture the narrow space to the left will just accommodate one strake with a taper to half width at the forward end of the opening.  The next picture shows the space left for the last plank at the stern.  
 

 
At this stage I was regretting using some slightly darker maple for some of the planks - even though all is intended to be painted.  In the next picture this plank has been installed and all that remains is the closing piece near midship.
 

 
In the next picture that piece is being pressed down into place in a tight fit that required no pinning.  A little tapping with a hammer helped.
 

 
Finally, the completed planking of the bottom on the starboard side.
 

 
And from the stern quarter.
 

 
The last picture shows the completed lower planking on the port side down to about midway into the wale.  There are 21 strakes of 6” wale planking on the ship.  The lower part of the hull was left unplanked on this side to show the method of POB framing used.
 

 
Even though this model initially started out as a demo of the POB framing only, I got a lot of satisfaction in taking it to this further-than-intended stage and eventually went a bit further.  Next step was to install the channels…..next time.
 
Ed

Happy birthday, Nils

Another photos:
 
 

 

 

 

 

Wonderful and amazing small model.

Wonderful and amazing small model.

Wonderful and amazing small model.

Happy birthday, Nils

Thank you Mark, George, Pat, Druxey, Daniel, Grant and Bob.
 
 
That must be what those guys in white coats knocking at my door want .
 
Well, here are the final pics - she's all complete. Apart from the accident with the mast the whole build went according to plan, and I am very happy with the result. So is my partner - after all, I built it as a present for her :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Happy birthday, Nils

Happy birthday, Nils

Paul, it's allways a pleasure to follow your log.

Hello,
 
thanks for your kind words, that supports my much. Today I finished the binnacle. Through my research in the NMM, I found this picture of a frigate from the Amazon class, ca. 1780. So I had something I could follow. Against this one, the binnacles from the Victory and Tricomarlee looking really modern.
 

 
And that is now my version
 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Your wheel looks fantastic. The painture of the model gives a real good impression how such a ship has looked in the Age of Sail.

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 24 – Main Deck Structural Work
 
The simplified POB model leaves open spaces in the deck structure that on the framed model is filled with intermediate beams, carlings, headers and ledges.  These provide under-deck support for the various main deck facilities.  Support for these facilities – cabins, hatchways, mast partners and the like – had to be added to the structure of plywood bulkheads before planking the decks.  These supports will be invisible in the finished model, so they are made from simple pine chocks glued to the bulkheads.
 
In the first picture the spacing for the main mast partners are being measured out from the centerline.
 

 
In the next picture pine chocks have been fitted and glued between bulkheads to give lateral support to the mast.
 

 
In the next picture a virtual platform of pine chocks is being glued between bulkheads to support the poop deck facitites – the coach, the two skylights and the helm housing.
 

 
The mizzen mast supports can also be seen in this picture.  In the next picture a thick pine strip is being glued to bulkhead 10 to support the aft head ledge of the main deck cabin.  Clamping is important when installing these to ensure good glue joints.  Aligning the grain of the pine pieces with the bulkheads is also important to avoid weak end-grain joints that will open up later.
 

 
The last picture shows the model with all the necessary supports installed.   To avoid missing any of these, all necessary supports were put on the hull structural drawings.
 

 
With all this crude structure in place, the deck was given a final sanding to fair the lines of the bulkheads and also to make the pine chocks conform to the deck round up.
 
With this necessary but dull work out of the way, I returned to hull planking.
 
 
Ed

Symbolic milestone - all frames installed!

 
Now need to install that tricky transom frames and wings, something that will represent hawse timbers, and cut the gunports.
And then - start the magical process of fairing!

Wow, that's a really nice little boat. I must allways look at the scale of your model 1:100

Your wheel looks fantastic. The painture of the model gives a real good impression how such a ship has looked in the Age of Sail.

Wow, that's a really nice little boat. I must allways look at the scale of your model 1:100