AnobiumPunctatum

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

Really nice progress, Nils

Still hammering away...    Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Here's the latest pics.  Starboard side wide wale planking is complete.  Needs final sanding and bit more caulking (  ) of some planks that I didn't quite get fitted right.  Relatively minor fix, in my opinion.  the splotchiness is from wiping it down with water to raise the grain for the final sanding.  An interesting effect is that not all Swiss Pear is the same color.. some is darker than the others.   Interesting.
 
Next comes the narrow planks.  per measurements, I need 28 strakes.  Seven strakes at the stern to the deadwood so I need to take those into account as they are 9" planks on the counter to the deadwood. After that, they can be wider as they run to the garboard.  The bow will need serious tapering and I'm starting to mark everything out.
 
Any tips, oops, or advice appreciated.
 




 

Here's the close up pic I promised....  I'm not done sanding or "caulking"/crack filling yet and there's sawdust all over...   but you should be able to see how the ebony flows and fills the area between fore end of the channel (the open spot) and the main wale and how the main wale planking is all blended together. The wide planks (wale planks) are all about 1 foot wide, actually a bit more since the French foot was bigger than the English foot.  The rest of the planking is approximately 9 inches wide, and again, it's slightly larger than the comparible English planking.
 

 

A minor milepost in the overall build but a major one for me...
 
Six strakes have been added and to check how the tuck planking went, I taped the sternpost into position and took a few extra shots.   Roughly sanded (sorry about the sawdust) and there's some gaps need filling.  Overall, I'm feeling pretty good at this point.  At the stern area, I'm off by about 3" (scale) which could be tolerance buildup or one side was of the transoms was off by that much.  I'm thinking it has more to do with some tolerance buildup and the angle the planks came into tuck.  The bow is about 2" (scale) off.   
 
I do like the way the lines are shaping up with planking.
 
I need to re-mark off the hull and re-check the measurements and then do a few more strakes before putting the garboard back on.  And sand, sand, sand.... <cough><cough>:  Luckily the air filter system I've added to the workshop is doing it's job.
 



 
Comments, questions, abuse is always allowed.  Ok.. maybe not the abuse part... 

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

Thanks Scoot (welcome to my build log at last ), Jan ( the pics should be in the Gallery tomorrow), Ian, Harvey and safir3 (2 years on MSW and THIS was your FIRST POST???? Wow, thanks even more ).
 
I almost had a major heart attack this morning. I'd realized that I'd forgotten to fit the Lantern Braces, so I retrieved Vulture from my daughter's holiday caravan where I'd been storing it while I worked on the base. Her van is about 50 metres away from mine, over grass and rough gravel roads .....
 
I placed Vulture on my workbench and prepared to make the braces - NO LANTERN !!!! This is where the heart attack nearly happened - it had taken me about 3 days to build the lantern, and I'd been quite happy with the result. I REALLY didn't look forward to making another this close from the end !
 
After back-tracking like a Bloodhound for 1/2 an hour I resigned myself to the worst. I'd have to make a new one .
 
When I took a 2nd look at the Quarterdeck - there it was . It had become detached and rolled down to the quarterdeck rail. If it had rolled to starboard and fallen into the open lower deck I'd never have realised until I'd made a new one. How lucky was that? :D
 
Anyhow - here are the lantern braces. They were a bit of a trick to get the lengths right. I had a couple of goes before I succeeded :
 

 

 

 
At least the lantern won't come adrift now .
 
 Danny

Very nice hull, Ed . Your method is completly diefferent from every other methods, I've seen before.

Very nice hull, Ed . Your method is completly diefferent from every other methods, I've seen before.

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 15 – Final Hull Fairing
 
Once the keel/stem/sternpost assembly was installed, the final fairing of the hull into the rabbet could be done.  Along the stem and keel the joint with the hull is on the bearding line, so the first step was to fair the hull along this line to meet the thickness of the stem/keel (16”), which is the hull breadth at that line.  In the first picture the “hump” on the hull spine is being pared back to match the width of the keel.
 

 
In the next picture a riffler is being used to produce the final faired surface at the stem.
 

 
At the stem the area outside of the bearding line must be further pared back smoothly into the stem rabbet that was cut before assembly.  In the next picture that is being done with a shallow gouge.
 

 
In the next picture the fairness in this area is being checked with a strip of planking.
 

 
The same process was repeated at the stern – and of course on both sides.  The hump along the keel at the stern is being removed in the next picture.
 

 
Sanding is always the final step.
 

 
The final sanding of the hull was done using 120-grit paper.
 
With the hull now fully faired the bevels on the aft face of the sternpost were filed off as shown below, while the model was inverted.
 

 
The post bevels allowed the rudder to swing over its full arc without being obstructed by the post.  After this work, the lower hull was ready to be planked.
 
And by the way, thanks again for all the likes and especially the nice comments.
 
Ed
 

All the best with the move, Ben. We will await your return with bated breath....

Thanks druxey. That sentence helps me a lot. I hope now, that I can finish the drawing until this weekend.

In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
 
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1  
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
 
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
 
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
 

 
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

Christian,
I can only try to answer your questions based on what I learned doing the Naiad drawings and from reading (and rereading, and rereading) Steel and the Repository on preparing drafts.  These texts are virtually identical.  As I understand the process for placing cant frames, it is as follows - in my words:
 
1.      Determine the number of aft cant timbers (pairs)between the fashion piece and the last square frame.
 
2.      On the half breadth plan set the aft edge of the forward section of the fashion piece (the aftermost cant frame) on a line from its joint face on the end of the wing transom to a point on the deadwood.  This point on the deadwood must allow just enough space aft of the last square frame to fit the inside ends of all the cant frames.
 
3.      This line is usually the joint line between the forward and aft parts of the fashion piece pair.  The aft section of this frame normally fits under and supports the wing transom.  On larger ships there may be more fashion pieces aft of this pair.
 
4.      On the half breadth plan, from the above line, set off equal spaces on the maximum breadth line to the joint line of the last square frame – one for each cant frame pair.
 
5.      Set of the same number of spaces on the deadwood.
 
6.      Draw in the lines of the cant frame pairs between these points and the points on the deadwood.
 
7.      Individual frames of each pair are then placed on either side of these lines so as to provide air space and to accurately define the sides of gun ports in the cant frame area.  On multi-deck ships, some jogging of the toptimbers may be necessary - as with square frames at times.
 
8.      By locating the sides of the ports from the sheer plan, the frames on either side can be accurately place on the half breadth plan.
 
9.      The cant frames can then be lofted by taking dimensions to waterlines along the cant frame faces.
 
The forward cant frames are drawn in the same way once the forward fashion piece is placed at the aft edge of the hawse timbers.  Care must be taken to eave adequate space along the deadwood to seat all the frames.
 
Another way of looking at this is to set the joint line points on the half breadth at the intersection with the numbered frame lines.  Some of Steel’s examples show the lines intersecting these points.  Both methods give very similar results.
 
As far as timberheads are concerned, I believe these were normally formed on the heads of the toptimbers that were left longer,  above the top of the side – for strength.  I would not be surprised to see anomalies on the drafts.  It would not be the first I have seen.
 
I hope this is helpful.
 
Ed

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
 
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1  
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
 
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
 
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
 

 
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.