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Redshadowrider

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  1. Redshadowrider
    Onto Chapter 16 - Bowsprit I completed the sweeps, attached them, and lashed them down along with the longboat. Two pictures are attached, one is the sweeps drying after a coating of tongue oil (See Newbie Below). The second is of the sweeps and tie down rigging for the longboat. For the sweeps, I used the drill rig to sand the shafts into the round shape required. I found that the shaping worked best by doing the shafts first, followed by the paddle end, and lastly the handles. (Both paddle head, and handle were done by hand.) Newbie Advice: If you haven’t worked with laser cut parts before, be very careful where the paddle head and shaft meet. Laser cut parts make it much easier to shape the final part, but as the cuts get closer together, the burned areas also become weaker. This can be seen in the circled area. The part where the paddle head became much stronger than the shaft, and it broke with just slight pressure. This is also relevant when lashing the finished sweeps together. When tightening them together in a group, it is easy to snap off a paddle head. I will not admit to having done this myself….oops, too late.
  2. Redshadowrider
    Thanks for the kind comments. I am guessing that, although different media, I am able to transfer much of my plane building to this project. I don’t build them much any longer, I am allergic to balsa dust. Go figure.😁
  3. Redshadowrider
    Big Change With Longboat It’s amazing how the height and depth perception changes with the addition of the longboat. The perception has really changed and the Syren is starting to look like a real ship…only in miniature. Those areas, and small blemishes have started to move into the not noticeable. I still have the sweeps to sand, lash together and add, but that should go quickly. At this point, I can only imagine how the result will begun to appear when adding each new element of the rigging. Unfortunately, it’s that time of year where mowing becomes a have to do, and the heat will begin to shorten my building time. I can always pray for rain, but that doesn’t help much. And the pics.
  4. Redshadowrider
    @schooner…Thanks, I can say the there are some pretty thin areas, and one that needed repair. I think that my technique comes from shaping balsa airplane fuselages, and cowls.
  5. Redshadowrider
    Ready for the Gallows Bits Finally completed the longboat and it is ready to be added to the deck. I still have the rest of the sweeps to finish before mounting it in place. **One thing that became clear during the construction, using my drill apparatus to turn the oar handles does not work well due to the oar being quite small.**. So, they were sanded by hand. Many a profanity was issued when trying to attach the gudgeons and pintles. If they were any smaller, a sneeze would cause them to disintegrate.
  6. Redshadowrider
    Thank you all. It took a while to figure out, and it’s not perfect. It is difficult to get the sweep perfectly centered, but if I loosely hold the sandpaper, the wood is flexible enough to wobble without breaking. And by using a small bar clamp on the drill (See post #373.), I can set the speed where I need and concentrate on shaping. One tip I have is that progress can be felt in my fingertips. With it starting out square, I can sand until no more vibration from the sharp edges is felt. Then it’s just a matter of shaping the paddle and the handle ends.
  7. Redshadowrider
    It’s Tool Accessory Time I am at the point where I needed to remove all 22 sweeps and oars from the laser cut stock and shape them. So, I either needed to figure out a way to make it easier to shape, or spend hours sanding the square shafts into round. I decided to try something in my cordless drill and found a solution that is not perfect, but does make possible to shape them quickly. Using a piece of 3/8” dowel, I cut a slot in the end. I then slip in the wide part of the sweep and shape the long round section and handle. Here are pics of the parts, then in the drill, and finally, the result.
  8. Redshadowrider
    If I had sanded more, I think I would have a pile of sawdust. I know that in Chuck’s Practicum he indicated that 1/64” is probably too small for some parts. With that, I have to agree. The long boat is a good example. I still have the knees to go.
  9. Redshadowrider
    Let Me Explain In the two pictures, you can see that it’s time for the cap rail. I tried fitting the 2 laser cut parts, but they both were just too narrow. The instructions indicate that the boat should be turned over and the outline be traced on 1/32” basswood. However, I think these were for a time when the laser forms were not available, and there isn’t any left over wood with a big enough space to accommodate the traced outline. Sooooo, off to Hobby Lobby for some stock. The result is what you see in the pics, and I will show the finished results when ready.
  10. Redshadowrider
    Time for an Update With all of the little parts and steps to do, I felt it best to get further along before an update. The biggest issue I have had has been with my CA. For some reason, it will not set as quickly, and I have had to use kicker more often. It’s either that, or CA is not very compatible with Tongue Oil. Rather than taking stain to the wood, I have been using Tongue Oil to finish unpainted wood. I did use an oak stain on the companionway and the capstan, but I thought they came out a little dark, so have gone back to the oil. Anyway, here is a picture of the progress on the longboat. I can see the light at the end of the long boat tunnel, but do have more work ahead. Here is a pic.
  11. Redshadowrider
    Getting Very Close For those who like sanding, the longboat will more than satisfy you. And, I can see why the boat that hangs from the stern davits was not part of this kit. I am now at the stern, and the picture shows the markings for the area that remains. Seems appropriate that this part remained until the last, as it is probably the most critical sanding area of the long boat. I have had only one little area where I let the wood get too thin where I broke through. It was small enough that it has already been fixed. Still, a couple hours to go before adding the interior parts.
  12. Redshadowrider
    Dentistry 101 Now it is on to the longboat inside shaping. All of the sanding steps in my previous post are still relevant. Removing the biggest part of the burned wood from the lifts is still a good guide. However, I recommend keeping a sharp lookout right at each lift joint. Since we sanded enough on the outside to remove it, the closer you get to it being removed, the thinner the joint is. Again I have started at the bow concentrating on forming in a good vertical joint bottom to top. In the picture, you can see the different dremel bits, mini file, and sandpaper. I constantly switch in order to sand out different parts at different angles and shape. Picture two is how I check the thickness in the sanded area. Once you can see the light glowing through the wood…stay away from that area. The goal, for me, is to remove excess wood in the areas where no light is emitted.
  13. Redshadowrider
    First Round on Longboat Complete Here is a series of pictures that depicts how I did my sanding/shaping. Some of this has been used in shaping balsa pieces on my planes. I am not saying this is the best, or only way to shape the lifts, just how I do it. For First Timers: 1. Pick an end to start at. (I chose the wider part at the bow.). This allows for a wider area to start with. In smaller, or narrower areas, you will find the changing file size and shape a frequent chore. 2. Try to sand across two lifts each time. Begin sanding the ridges down I try to vary which 2 lifts I work on. The intent is to sand the darker laser cut areas away leaving only clean wood. 3. Since the bow is a wide area, sand evenly across all lifts. As you do, the darker parts will begin to narrow. The goal is to remove just enough material to eliminate the lines totally. However, pay close attention to the thickness of the wood, all lifts. 4. As you follow the steps above, keep drawing the sanding further back narrowing the lines into the narrowest you can get. Most will simply disappear and if you stop sanding that area as soon as they do, the shape will begin to appear. 5. The narrowest areas at the stern will take several different sanding tools. Sandpaper wrapped around dowels of different sizes is my way. Along with mini files and sanding sticks. 6. Along the way, try dragging a fingernail across the lines. When you get to the point that you can diminish the amount of sanding in that area.
  14. Redshadowrider
    Sanding, Sanding - Pause - More Sanding Started on the longboat gluing up the lifts and waiting 24 hours to ensure that all of the glue had dried and set. Admittedly, I am used to sanding being in radio control plane building and repair. I have sanded wingtips, cowls, etc, and the only thing different is that I hadn’t worked with lifts. Here are pics of my progress and, I have been able to get the first round of sanding done on the port side. Next will be starboard, and then a final fine sanding.
  15. Redshadowrider
    Rudder Pendants Completed and In I got the pendants assembled and in after blackening the chain. I first split the chain into two equal pieces so as to make them easier to work with. And, should I make a disastrous mistake on one, it would leave me enough to still complete this step. I also found it easier to attach the chain to the tiller first, then set the length by tying it off to the cleat. Don’t let the look make you think this is easy. It isn’t the most difficult task, but the chain links are tiny, and attaching them to the eyebolts is a pain. Lastly, making them hang the same on both sides of the tiller is a challenge. Now it’s on to Chapter 15 for the 25 foot longboat….Or was that Chapter 25 for the 15 foot longboat. ☺️
  16. Redshadowrider
    Hammock Rails and Rigging Lines are In… I have completed this task up to the point that it is time to add the netting, however, I am hesitant to do so. Up to this point, I have found that, had I built before, I “might” have waited until later in the build. I had to fix items that I had accidentally bumped, and knocked out of position. I believe that putting the netting in, will provide a ready made snag area. I also believe that if I need to repair any damage to the hammock rails, the netting will make it more difficult. Looking ahead, the rudder pendants, and the long boat assembly will not interfere with them, so I will chug along making sure I don’t add something that will get in the way of completing netting.
  17. Redshadowrider
    Issue Resolved, & Rails Almost Ready… After a quick use of my gray matter (not my hair 😏) I figured a way to adjust the slots on the hammock cranes. Sorry for the picture quality, but I think you can see my process. I simply laid my Xacto knife with spine on the bottom and gave each slot a slight twist. Then, it was a simple process of adding the wood rail, and slightly down pushing it into place. The second pic shows the result after painting. One thing to note is that I did not glue the rails to the boarding panels yet. If I did, it would interfere with rigging the crane wire to the eye bolts on the panel. After, the rigging is done, and before adding the netting, I will glue them in place.
  18. Redshadowrider
    Well, That Was Quick…and a Concern The airplane assembly took barely any time away from the Syren and I have moved on. The next step on the hammock cranes is done and also raised a concern. After painting, and adding them to the cap rail, I have seen how delicate they are. The slots that fit the inside wood rail are not wide enough to accommodate the strip that is used. So, I either have to sand the wood used so it will fit, OR modify each crane by widening the slot on each. Neither choice is very palatable..thin the wood making it weaker, or figure out a way to widen the slots on 20 cranes without damaging them in the process. Newbie Note: If this is your first build like me, fit each crane slot to the wood BEFORE you glue them to the cap rail.
  19. Redshadowrider
    One Last Step Before moving over to my plane assembly, I decided to get the boarding panels ready. And I was determined to add the edging that Chuck’s practicum suggested. The pics are not the best, but the unpainted ones show the detail.
  20. Redshadowrider
    Just Couldn’t Do It..🤫 The crooked ladder step just kept bugging me, so I fixed it. I was lucky, and didn’t have to remove it, as I was able to fix it in place. Now I am ready to move on.
  21. Redshadowrider
    Ladders In, and a Small Dilemma. I was able to construct and add the boarding ladders. They look better from regular distance even though the steps look out of alignment. Now, it’s on to the hammock rails….but, first. It is fast becoming flying weather, and I really need to assemble a new plane. I have only one work area, and I need the same area that I am using now. I will be stepping away from the Syren while I put together an A10 “Warthog.” Once it is together, I will continue with the Syren. And, weather permitting, some flying in. And the PICS.
  22. Redshadowrider
    Thanks, @Overworked724 I was so glad I did it. Not a fault in the kit, but I would opt for either better wood, or let us cut in the groove around the perimeter in a thicker, single piece. Half Way to Chapter 15 in the Manual……… I have reached the part where, the hammock rail assemblies are to be installed. To me, this translates to the deck being just a little bit tougher to get to the outside deck area. So, I went back to earlier chapters looking for items that I may have waited on. Already mentioned; Ship’s Bell, Traveler, and Belay Pin Placements. However, as it happens, I missed adding the boarding ladders when I added the companionway. This will require moving the carronades outhaul coils to accommodate the ladder….oh, and building 2 of them first. I am sure this will not be the last time I check for anything missed. And, lastly, I took liberty and did the frame for the ships bell differently.
  23. Redshadowrider
    New Rail Ready/New Rail In As I said in a previous post that a newbie might want to create a new rail piece if the wood used in the kit is real weak. Looking back, I ended up doing it anyway. While trying to straighten one of the stanchions, the original broke again. So, I thought enough is enough and made the new piece. Here is a pic of the redone part, and after installation. Cannonballs are now in leaving only the traveler and ship’s bell to add. Will make them part of the next chapter. On to Chapter 14…..
  24. Redshadowrider
    Fife Rail Redo It was probably inevitable that I would not be happy with the fife rail and choose a redo. And that’s exactly what happened. While doing an overall deck cleanup, I saw that one of the supporting stanchions was not vertical. More than likely it was not that visible to others, but to me it really stuck out. Using a razor blade, I cut through the one stanchion and tried to reposition it. As was the case through its construction, the rail came apart for the last time. I found a spare deck plan, cut out the rail drawing and began a total rebuild. The pictures show the new wood with the pattern glued to the new wood. When it dries, I will reshape the new part and return it to its place on deck. The other pic shows my progress and then it will be on to chapter 14 in the manual.
  25. Redshadowrider
    Gallow’s Bitts & Riding Bitts In Just completed these 2 features and added some tongue oil to the main decking. After it sits for a few hours it will be time to clean up the oil. Luckily, it won’t stay shiny as in the picture.

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