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Redshadowrider

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  1. Redshadowrider
    Carronades, and Notes: Those of you who are keeping up with my build, have probably realized that I do not like remeasuring the same thing over and over. So, to make it easier, I take the time to make a template when possible. The time spent does allow for repeating the same steps over without having to measure each one. In light of that, I created a eye bolt template for the carronade base. The last thing that I wanted to have to do was to measure their placement on each side of the base. So I created a simple tool to repeat the same measurements on each base and for each side. Another benefit is that it does speed up the process. (Of course, if you make an error, it repeats over and over as well. ....so be careful. 😉 ) I have included pics of what I did and the results. Note: Since I began painting the color red for the bulwarks, I have been mixing Vallejo Flat Brown, and Flat Red for a dark blood colored surface. Since I seem to be going back over and over mixing the color, I decided to see if I could find a color that would match. I spent some time going through different reds online and from different vendors. I finally found one from Vallejo Paints that is close to a dead on match, so I began using it. I have painted the carronade shelves on each gun port as well as the carronade parts. The color is Cavalry Brown, and if the color I have made the bulwarks, pin rails, and carronades is what you would like, I recommend it.
  2. Redshadowrider
    Pin Rails, and Carronades: I have installed both the Carronade bases and the pin rails. To make the pin rails stronger, I added support pins as the instructions recommend. To ensure that I got the drilled holes in the right places, I created a jig. It sure made it easier to note where the holes needed to be. It's just a block of balsa shaped and made at the correct height. I could then slide it into position with the pin rail clamped and was then able to mark them correctly. It also made holding the pin rail in place while marking the holes an easy task. (It seems I am making tools for a lot of the processes. 🙂) Or maybe that is just how I think. If a step needs to be repeated/copied, it begs for a tool or jig that can replicate the process without measuring every one. Now it is on to a multitude of small parts eye bolts, cleats, and a bunch of split rings on the end of the eye bolts. The first two pics are those that show the jig and its operation. Last two are the updated pin rails and carronade bases.
  3. Redshadowrider
    Hidden Progress: I have been working on Chapter 11, although it's progress that is just getting the next pieces ready to glue in place . First, I have completed the gun port carronade mounts, pin rails, and re-marking of the main deck features for upcoming furniture emplacement. While glue/paint dries, I have started assembling small on deck parts. This afternoon, I added split rings to 22 eye bolts for placement on the main deck. There are 22, and I think I lost 2 or 3, during assembly. I am using 2 sets of tweezers, and invariably, .....ping..... there goes the split ring, or .....ping... there goes the eye bolt...or both. Tomorrow begins the gluing on of the gun port shelves and the pin rails. Couple of Comments: 1. Earlier in this build log, I indicated that I had glued down a few of the main deck grates and mast location templates using paper glue. Well, the paper came off ok, but the glue loved the deck wood and it was a bear to remove. Deck needed sanding anyway. 2. For the pin rails, I copied the deck plan, cut out each pin rail, and glued it to the 1/16" basswood that I purchased for the cap rails. Once the glue dried, I spent time sanding and shaping them and once they were ready, I sanded off the templates. Not a big deal, since you can turn the pieces over and never see the template. Newbie Comment: Since all of these parts are custom formed to the area they are located, I recommend using a system for numbering them, so that you can put them back into the same spot for gluing. You can see in my pics, P1; P2; etc, and S1; S2 etc. this allowed for tracking which part goes where. That way you do not constantly have to reshape each piece. (This is probably a well known process, but it bears repeating.) .....and a couple of pics.
  4. Redshadowrider
    Onto Chapter 11 - Bulwarks and Carronades For any person building a POB or any wooden ship this last part has been the most frustrating and complicated so far. I struggled to get the different parts to fit together well. Not only are the details small, they are full of curved structures and angles that need to be matched between parts. This is my first time through something this detailed and small at the same time. I did change process somewhat, but unless someone guesses, it will be interesting to see if it is noticed. Noobie Recommendation: Do not speed through this part! It will be frustrating and complex enough without having to redo parts because of too much speed. Take your time and work slow read both the instruction booklet and Chuck's practicum multiple times. And when you reach the "bumpkin" create and install, make note of the practicum that indicates to install the bumpkin later. And for the figure head, it is removable for now. Like the catheads it is just one of those knockoff parts that sit's there daring you. I took the suggestion in the practicum to add both the bumpkin and figurehead later. I am looking forward to the next part... on the deck stuff. ....👍
  5. Redshadowrider
    Headrails (Port) Almost done: (Disaster Averted) I have completed the head rails on the port side and now need to move to the starboard. I have to say this has been the hardest part of the build so far. Numerous parts in a small area and most are custom fit. Except for the clean up of the area, I am satisfied at the outcome. However, an almost disaster required a lot more clean up than can be seen. I have been using CA for a good portion of the construction since it allows for a quick drying of the contact. This helps to speed up the process of small parts that need to be held while gluing. The timber heads along with the curves make wood gluing difficult without clamping. And I just don't have clamps that would work anyway. While I used very thin CA, I did not see how much had run down the bow until it built up quite a bit on the carved parts around the hawse holes. When I finally discovered it, it took an hour or so if cleaning up the overruns. Once that was done, I had to go back and repaint, and refinish the wood parts with tung oil. Next time it is gap filler CA which does very little running since it is thicker than the thin stuff. I was sweating it for awhile, especially where it had built up. Whew.......
  6. Redshadowrider
    Catheads, and Headrails: One thing that I noticed about the catheads is that they just sit there waiting to be hit and knocked off. (I am not talking about regular catheads... 😁 ...although?) Puns aside, I did break off one of the catheads, so after I repaired it and reinstalled, I decided to pin both of them. (PIC) Then it was on to the head rails...something that I have been anxious about. I haven't carved wood very much until this kit, so I was a little hesitant to get here. Here is the progress I have made and so far, I am ok with the results. The middle rails do not have as smooth a curve as I would like, but they are in place. Next step is to add the head rails on the interior, then the final top rail. I also included the figurehead since it has been painted. Here are the pics. (pins first)
  7. Redshadowrider
    Thanks @baskerbosse there is a picture on page 121 in the instruction book that shows them. Parrel “trucks” is what is used and has beads in between each one, I think. The angle of the picture makes them easy to overlook. It now makes sense that they were scotch taped to the boom and gaff jaws. 😀 duh...
  8. Redshadowrider
    Catheads and Headrails & What is this? I am making progress on the headrails, but it does take time to make sure it is right. Thanks to the kit for having extra parts, just in case I break (...or broke) one. 🙂 I have added the pictures of the progress, and a picture called: What is this? I have gone through the instruction book several times looking for these parts, but still haven't found them pictured, or found out what they are used for. I first thought it was for the inboard part of the hawse holes, but even the kit doesn't have that many extras. I then thought it might be the base for the oar locks for the long boat, but even the instructions talk about cutting strips for it and then adding 28 gauge wire. So, I am still not sure. Any help will be appreciated. I hope to get the head rails completed in the next day or so, but for now gotta rest my back. Have a great holiday weekend all.
  9. Redshadowrider
    Thanks Allen. I have to say, I am very happy at how she is turning out. For my first time building one of these, I have been able to learn new building styles, but also have used a lot of what I have learned in other hobbies. Nothing quite this small and with as much detail. I do appreciate hearing from another builder that my efforts are noticeable.
  10. Redshadowrider
    On To Chapter 10!!!!!..... It seems I have been on Chapter 9 forever, but there were delays for an order or two and vacation. Finally though, all the little details are in place and now it is on to the headrails ...oh joy🤪 I even had time between drying glue to paint the figurehead. I took the liberty to go down the creative path and painted it with some color. It felt sometimes like I was painting with one hair in the brush. Also went back and did some more clean up/painting on the transom. Any way, onto the headrails..... Here are the pictures of my progress:
  11. Redshadowrider
    An Inconsequential Tool That Turned Out Not To Be: Chapter 9 has, what seems to be the installation of door hinges, split rings, and eyebolts for the carronade port doors. So to make it a bit easier, I made a tool in about 5 minutes. You can see it in the picture it is placed into a gun port opening and has 2 marks which mark the lines for both the rings, and hinges. When I first made it, I was trying to avoid a lot of measuring.... It also worked for the rear gun ports as well. I ended up using it more than I would have imagined. Funny how that turns out some times.
  12. Redshadowrider
    Progress Made: After seeing the ideas that @abelsonand @WalrusGuy provided, I decided to change the transom. Originally, I had wanted some of it to be wood in appearance, but cracks in both pieces made it necessary to make the change. I am happy with how it came out, and am back on track. I have two pictures attached, the new transom view, and the progress on the starboard side. I still have 2 gun port doors to add, but the rest of the 1/2 port doors are installed. I am on the fence with adding the hinge pins due to their size. In the picture, there are hinge pins in the gun port door at the stern, but try and see them is a problem. I am tempted to get some wire with a sleeve at .26 gauge and see if it makes a difference. I think the .28 is just too small and an increase in size should not hurt the scale if done correctly. I have also completed the ladder, fenders, and chess tree on the starboard side. Here are the pictures that I took today.
  13. Redshadowrider
    Thanks guys, I wish there were multiple transom face pieces. That’s the parts I have broken......and now a black stern. I am going to add some trim similar to what the pictures show.
  14. Redshadowrider
    Question on Fenders and Chess Tree: I am at the point where I am ready to install both the fenders, and chess tree on the starboard side. I have, what I think are the right parts for them, but even after looking at the plans, and pictures in several forum build logs, I need input. I am assuming that the parts pictured, are those that I am to use? My confusion is from there being 8 pieces, but only 6 are used to create both fenders and chess trees. Are these the correct pieces to use? The instruction book says they are laser cut and 1/16" thick, so these parts fit that description. Thanks, in advance.
  15. Redshadowrider
    Thanks Steven, @abelson that does really clean it up. The only issue I have is the carvings are glued on. The outline is fairly smooth, so painting around it, will mostly be slow, but doable. It will help to highlight it as well with background being darker.
  16. Redshadowrider
    Thanks for the pictures @WalrusGuy. These pictures have given me an idea on how to make some minor changes.
  17. Redshadowrider
    Need some help/input here: Because there was a visible crack in the wood on the transom, I ended up painting it black. Since then, I have began to think that it is pretty dark, and have contemplated converting it to light colored. I have several options that I have determined, but want to see if anyone has a better idea. Here are my options: 1. Carefully sand the transom inserted area and finish to wood with tung oil. 2. Create a template to insert to the black area except above and below the gun port lids. (The gun port doors will still be inserted into the black edge, but doing the insert without the port edges will not extend them beyond the back of the transom. 3. Using a wood color, paint the blackened insert keeping all dimensions the same. (If I do this, I would also consider painting the wood part where the carving is the same color. Not sure this is a practical solution though.) This is what I have considered, so if there are other ideas I overlooked, I would appreciate any other thoughts.
  18. Redshadowrider
    Details, Details, Details..... Hey fellow modelers, it has been quiet awhile since I have posted my progress. Between the steps I am on and a delay on an order for Blackening liquid, I haven't made much. However, I am back to building and not waiting for an order. The blackening liquid (Birchwood Casey) took 2 weeks to get here. Would have picked it up locally, but it had 2 day delivery indicated on Amazon. Well, it went Reno to Sparks NV - Sparks to Denver Co - Denver to Oklahoma City - to Missoula, MT - Missoula to Salt Lake City - Salt Lake City "back" to Denver - back to Oklahoma City - then to Tulsa - and delivered. Not a good record for UPS. In any case, now complete are the Sweep Port doors/hinges; stern sheaves and split rings; scuppers on both interior and exterior; and quarter badges finished and installed. (I did look @WalrusGuy and his construction of the badges and decided to use the cast ones.) For now, the badges are just too small for me to build and I was already 2 weeks delayed by the blackening. I have fitted, painted, and finished the gun port doors, and they are almost ready to install. The problem for me is trying to glue the gun port hinges in the same exact place on each door. After seeing how Walrus Guy installed his, I have decided to insert the hinge on the hull first, then attach the door. Trying to glue each hinge separately opens up misplacing one or several of them. So I will attach them to the hull first and thanks to Walrus for the idea.👍
  19. Redshadowrider
    Some Progress, & One BIG Error: I have attached pictures showing my latest progress from adding the Carved Decoration on the stern, to completing the rudder, and a big start on the sweep port doors. .....and then there was the mistake. Mistake - Something not intended. 😁 Once I completed the plating of the hull, and added the rudder, I wanted to try and polish out some of the scratches in the plating. These are inevitable when burnishing the copper on the hull itself. Well, I almost bit the big one on this. You can see the rudder in one of the pictures, and tell that I didn't polish, but roughed it up somewhat. It took me awhile to determine what to do, so I got some acrylic paint, and carefully added it to the damaged areas. Surprise, It makes it look like it is an aged rudder after heavy use. I have already treated the rest of the tiles with SPF 30 sun block and am waiting to see if I get any results. Once I do, the rudder and hull will fit together nicely. This one scared me big... I was thinking the hull and rudder might need to be redone, but for now, I think it has been saved. Some final adjustments down the road and it will look aged. In the other pics, I have installed the sweeper port doors, sanded, and refinished the planking ...again. I have ordered the brass blackening liquid and will put it to use when it gets here. Then I will add the "V" hinges after they are blackened as well as the stern sheaves and quarter-badges. Also included a picture of the painting results of the 2 cast badges in the kit. I considered building my own, but settled on the castings. I think they will work out fine based on what they look like. Lastly, I have a picture of the stern which includes a good view of the rudder, and the simulated wood carving on the transom. One Question on "Split rings and Eye bolts." In the instruction booklet, it is indicated that the eye bolt and split ring combination uses 28 gauge wire for the split ring. However, in the kit, is a bag that appears to be the same split rings in brass. I would just need to blacken them just like the "V" hinges on the sweep ports. Are these brass rings the ones I am to use?.... I wouldn't think I need to make my own. Just want to make sure. PS. I just noticed the over paint of the transom cap rail (black) to the unpainted transom surface. I will be sure to clean it up.🙃
  20. Redshadowrider
    Rudder & Cap Rails - Finally made some progress since returning from vacation. You know the type, more tired when you get back than when you left? 😀 Mostly from driving too many miles in too short of time. Now back to construction. I have been stalling on the cap rails for some time now. Mostly, I wanted to get a lot done before adding them. And, I decided to buy a micro scraper rather than build one. Anyway, Saturday, I got the scraper and today, I completed adding the rails, and painting. I need a little more sanding here and there, but for the most part, they are done. (I know, my guess is this isn't the last time I touch them up.) 😃 Also completed mounting the rudder, although, I do think I need some more clean up. I added the pintles and gudgeons using CA, now it needs to be cleaned, and some nail heads put into the straps. Pics too.....
  21. Redshadowrider
    Hi Guy’s, Made it back from vacation, and have returned to the building table. Not too much to report on so far, so no pics. Got the rudder shaped, plated, and the false keel added to the hull and rudder. Also, was able to drill the hole for the rudder and needs just a little paint inside and out. Next step is the gudgeons and pintles and I am not looking forward to this step. The only reason is the soldering. You would think that with all my plane experience, I would be good at it by now. I am getting better, but it’s still difficult to get a good looking weld. Will update soon.
  22. Redshadowrider
    She's plated!!!!!! Well except for the Stem Knee and Stern Post, but those will be cake to get finished. I am certainly glad that I never signed on to shingle a roof. I wouldn't have been a roofer very long. Any way, after the stem and stern, It's on to the rudder which I am looking forward to. However, now I will be on a short vacation, so no ship building. I did clean up both starboard, and port plates with acetone just to make sure all is clean. Now, I might just let the patina come naturally, but may look into helping along. Either way, I will be ok with it. Now pics:
  23. Redshadowrider
    All Dressed Up and No Where to Go: Well, actually, the starboard is next. Just finished the port side copper plates and now it is onto the starboard. I can say, that I am getting tired of looking at the bottom of the ship, but it is getting there. I am happy that it turned out like it did, but it is nerve wracking just laying them out and making sure that the butt joints do not end up on top of the one below or above each one. On a couple, they did end up pretty close, but I will let you find them. 🙃 Newbie Points: 1. Be sure to dress up the black portion of the waterline when you get close to it with your plates. It is much easier to retouch BEFORE you have plates to mask off. 2. I cleaned up the whole side with acetone so that any finger prints, or sticky backing glue left on the plates was removed. 3. Keep an eye on each plate, it is easy to punch a hole for a nail head. It's not a big deal, but when the plate is installed, the hole can leave the wood underneath exposed. 4. If you don't like the way a plate looks, remove it. You will always know it is there. 5. I burnished each plate just after installation, rather than wait. The plates can move a little, and you might need to reinstall them. I found this worked well for me.
  24. Redshadowrider
    Stamp, Cut, Separate, Paste: Here is an update on my progress in adding the copper plates. Not much to say except there is a lot of work in this phase. I have been able to separate the backing from the copper side fairly easily, so it could be worse. So far, I am ok with the outcome, but I am getting close to having to cut the plates for the dressing belt and it looks like it can be tricky. Newbie Note: I recommend using a jewelers visor to make it easier to place each plate correctly. Although that may be because my eyes aren't what they used to be. AND.... With the visor on, I can see a small amount of the adhesive is squeezed out of the sides when you burnish each plate. I recommend wiping it down with Acetone, which is what I did. Well, I ran out of stamped plates, so back to work. 😄
  25. Redshadowrider
    Thanks, @WalrusGuy I was hoping that was it. 😊. I have been looking through your build, and that of @NovaStorm and @Overworked724 to see if I could tell. Also want to thank all of you for your input and assistance with my build. It is appreciated. 👍This type of kit work can cause one to overthink each step.

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