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Redshadowrider

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Everything posted by Redshadowrider

  1. Redshadowrider
    Issue Resolved, & Rails Almost Ready… After a quick use of my gray matter (not my hair 😏) I figured a way to adjust the slots on the hammock cranes. Sorry for the picture quality, but I think you can see my process. I simply laid my Xacto knife with spine on the bottom and gave each slot a slight twist. Then, it was a simple process of adding the wood rail, and slightly down pushing it into place. The second pic shows the result after painting. One thing to note is that I did not glue the rails to the boarding panels yet. If I did, it would interfere with rigging the crane wire to the eye bolts on the panel. After, the rigging is done, and before adding the netting, I will glue them in place.
  2. Redshadowrider
    Well, That Was Quick…and a Concern The airplane assembly took barely any time away from the Syren and I have moved on. The next step on the hammock cranes is done and also raised a concern. After painting, and adding them to the cap rail, I have seen how delicate they are. The slots that fit the inside wood rail are not wide enough to accommodate the strip that is used. So, I either have to sand the wood used so it will fit, OR modify each crane by widening the slot on each. Neither choice is very palatable..thin the wood making it weaker, or figure out a way to widen the slots on 20 cranes without damaging them in the process. Newbie Note: If this is your first build like me, fit each crane slot to the wood BEFORE you glue them to the cap rail.
  3. Redshadowrider
    One Last Step Before moving over to my plane assembly, I decided to get the boarding panels ready. And I was determined to add the edging that Chuck’s practicum suggested. The pics are not the best, but the unpainted ones show the detail.
  4. Redshadowrider
    Just Couldn’t Do It..🤫 The crooked ladder step just kept bugging me, so I fixed it. I was lucky, and didn’t have to remove it, as I was able to fix it in place. Now I am ready to move on.
  5. Redshadowrider
    Ladders In, and a Small Dilemma. I was able to construct and add the boarding ladders. They look better from regular distance even though the steps look out of alignment. Now, it’s on to the hammock rails….but, first. It is fast becoming flying weather, and I really need to assemble a new plane. I have only one work area, and I need the same area that I am using now. I will be stepping away from the Syren while I put together an A10 “Warthog.” Once it is together, I will continue with the Syren. And, weather permitting, some flying in. And the PICS.
  6. Redshadowrider
    Thanks, @Overworked724 I was so glad I did it. Not a fault in the kit, but I would opt for either better wood, or let us cut in the groove around the perimeter in a thicker, single piece. Half Way to Chapter 15 in the Manual……… I have reached the part where, the hammock rail assemblies are to be installed. To me, this translates to the deck being just a little bit tougher to get to the outside deck area. So, I went back to earlier chapters looking for items that I may have waited on. Already mentioned; Ship’s Bell, Traveler, and Belay Pin Placements. However, as it happens, I missed adding the boarding ladders when I added the companionway. This will require moving the carronades outhaul coils to accommodate the ladder….oh, and building 2 of them first. I am sure this will not be the last time I check for anything missed. And, lastly, I took liberty and did the frame for the ships bell differently.
  7. Redshadowrider
    New Rail Ready/New Rail In As I said in a previous post that a newbie might want to create a new rail piece if the wood used in the kit is real weak. Looking back, I ended up doing it anyway. While trying to straighten one of the stanchions, the original broke again. So, I thought enough is enough and made the new piece. Here is a pic of the redone part, and after installation. Cannonballs are now in leaving only the traveler and ship’s bell to add. Will make them part of the next chapter. On to Chapter 14…..
  8. Redshadowrider
    Fife Rail Redo It was probably inevitable that I would not be happy with the fife rail and choose a redo. And that’s exactly what happened. While doing an overall deck cleanup, I saw that one of the supporting stanchions was not vertical. More than likely it was not that visible to others, but to me it really stuck out. Using a razor blade, I cut through the one stanchion and tried to reposition it. As was the case through its construction, the rail came apart for the last time. I found a spare deck plan, cut out the rail drawing and began a total rebuild. The pictures show the new wood with the pattern glued to the new wood. When it dries, I will reshape the new part and return it to its place on deck. The other pic shows my progress and then it will be on to chapter 14 in the manual.
  9. Redshadowrider
    Gallow’s Bitts & Riding Bitts In Just completed these 2 features and added some tongue oil to the main decking. After it sits for a few hours it will be time to clean up the oil. Luckily, it won’t stay shiny as in the picture.
  10. Redshadowrider
    A Final Cleanup Always Helps Here is the fife rail after a careful sanding, and a “wood” colored wash.
  11. Redshadowrider
    Fife & Ten… Finally got it to hold together and installed. I could still do some clean up, but I had to repair it twice before I could get it completed , so touching it might lead to a dust pile. In any case, I can still do some touch up if I decide to. All in all, I thought that turning the stanchions would be the hard part. Little did I know it was the easier thing to do. Newbie Note: If I had to do it again, I would simply create new rail pieces. Although, that would depend on the state of the wood from where they came from. In this case, it looked ok, but just fell apart upon touching it.
  12. Redshadowrider
    ….And here we are. Despite being as careful as I could, the fife rail broke again (twice). So it came down to a complete rebuild, or one last attempt to finish the part. My decision is to reinforce the current pieces and see if a rebuild can be avoided. Using a cutout from the original wood used, I am going to try to clean this up.
  13. Redshadowrider
    Fife Rail and a Few Comments If this is your first time through this build, you probably already know, but if not, please be warned. The fife rail parts (2 of them) are far more delicate than the instruction manual lets on. They mention rounding off the rail top and bottom pieces “before” you glue them together. Good luck with that. My parts barely will stay together, and has required multiple repairs while trying to impart the suggested curve. The cross grain piece came apart with even the lightest touch requiring reassembly. So many times, in fact, that I am one more break from creating a new part out of a piece light ply I use in airplane construction. I am no expert, but these 2 rail parts are just too flimsy in their original laser cut configuration. However, I have persisted and the two pieces are now glued together. Next break, and they will be gone, and a new part constructed. One of the two pictures show the current state of the rails, which will need cleaning up. (While I hold my breath.)…and how I have approached making the supports. For a poor man’s lathe, I use my cordless drill with a small clamp used to hold the trigger at a constant speed while freeing both hands for the shaping. I will update with pics when it is ready for the install. Whether it is the original or remade pieces.
  14. Redshadowrider
    Cannonballs, Brass Bell, & a Traveler As far as I can tell, these 3 items are those items left to complete….then it’s on to Chapter 13. Here are the pics of the tiller and aft cannon rigging, just completed. The instruction manual provides the option of rigging the tiller with either one, or two lengths of line. I was lucky to able to complete it using only one.
  15. Redshadowrider
    A Few Items Nearing Completion I have been working on a few deck features at the same time and am getting close to having them done. Just installed the bilge pump today, but forgot to add the exit pipes, one on each side. I will make sure I get them in before moving on. Other things to finish are the cannon rigging, and the wheel connections to the tiller. Lastly, the bell needs to be mounted to the binnacle, and the cannonballs set in. Just hesitant to do the cannonballs now. I can see them rolling all over even when glued.
  16. Redshadowrider
    Before I Forget I decided to return to the capstan and try to add the small wedges that go between the whelps. I used a piece of popsicle stick to space them the same. Now all I have left is to decide if I will do an upper row.
  17. Redshadowrider
    Binnacle Improved I was lucky that the binnacle was just tacked into place, so I was able to remove it. No, I did not mean to just have it tacked, but it was supposed to be installed. No worries though, I did some improvements in the cabinet handles. By grinding the heads of the straight pins, which allowed them to become loose, I put them in a vise and smashed them. I think they have a better look, and the color now resembles pewter. And, I was able to clean up the binnacle, which needed the “whiskers” removed.
  18. Redshadowrider
    A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to The 12 Pounder 😆 So, here I am painting the carriages red, and what do I find?……whelps. But, wait, I have already built and installed the capstan. So, I check, and nope, these are not used elsewhere, nor did I look for them when I assembled it. To be fair, the drawing on the plans did show 1/16” stock, so that is what I used. Oh well, they came out ok on the finished product…
  19. Redshadowrider
    Thanks for the positive comments, they are appreciated. I have thought about the pin heads and either painting the edges to hide most of it, or maybe do as Phil suggests, and remove the pin heads.
  20. Redshadowrider
    Binnacle Finished, Installed, and I Am Not Happy I have installed the binnacle and its size looks good except for the door handles. I used the heads of straight pins, and still they are clunky looking. I am going to try to make them look smaller, but still need to work out a process. Overall, I think I can do a little work to improve the appearance. However, I need to clean up the overall appearance. The larger picture really makes the rough surface stand out. Maybe a tooth brush would smooth it up if used carefully. Looking at it without enlarging does not show so badly.
  21. Redshadowrider
    STUMPED..sort of I have noticed that I am getting low on split rings and eyebolts. Since I will need them, I am looking for a source from which I can order some additional before I run out. I have been looking, but am unsure of which vendor is still active. Can anyone point me to a good source?
  22. Redshadowrider
    Still Warm Enough for Progress Well, I have moved along and next is the binnacle. The only thing I missed was the tiny wedges that go between the whelps on the capstan. I should be able to add them in a tweezer operation. The camera tends to amplify the gratings coloring. They look much better off photograph, so I am keeping them as is. I am holding off of adding the cannonballs to the racks until I have much more of the deck features in place. I can envision knocking off most of them, and them disappearing to somewhere. These things are tiny. I am also trying to make the ship used. I hope I am doing it correctly, so far, I am satisfied, but I have seen other builders that are very good.
  23. Redshadowrider
    Progress Even During Cold Snap Even though we have had record cold the last couple of weeks, I have been able to work short periods with a space heater. I have completed the main gratings and combings and glued them place. Next step is the cannonball racks, but I am going to want to do the indents in them first. Not a difficult task, but it still needs to be done. I am using Minwax Oak stain for the gratings and will add some more to even out the coloring. The string was used to help center the hatches on the deck. It runs from the center of the bowsprit notch to the center of the freeboard. Made center placement much easier than using the bulwarks as a measuring point. Camera angle makes it look off center, but it isn’t. Yes, my workbench needs attention. 🤫
  24. Redshadowrider
    Winter Has Returned so, I am on a short hold until it warms up a bit. However, I have gotten some work done on the gratings and combings. I have just placed them on deck, but not glued. CA does not hold very well n cold weather, and I have had to use accelerator. I also had time to do some final prep work before installation. In other posts, I have seen where the grating spans should point forward and the center hatch is twisted by 90 degrees. My fault really, I cut out one of the anchor line corners incorrectly. Still have time to decide. Also, a question: I have attempted to age the grating, but I am on the fence about how it turned out. In a non picture view, they do look better, but I wonder if they would have that much variance in color as they aged?
  25. Redshadowrider
    Time for the Finish Sanding I might redo the smaller grate/coming as it appears to be just a little too large.

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