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Redshadowrider

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Everything posted by Redshadowrider

  1. Redshadowrider
    In the picture above, if you look closely, there is a plank on the port side that is not totally seated. I am not sure what is causing the misalignment, but there is at least 1/2 of the plank below where sanding is required, but that is just to level the surface. At that point, it will start to thin at the high point. I am considering trying to fix rather than sand because with it painted black I am fairly sure the repair would not be seen. Input on this, or any other way to fix, other than sanding or repair? I do need to put a good light on it and look closer as well. Resolved: After sleeping on the question, I figured out how to fix the high plank. Rather than cut into the outside of the counter and try to replace the plank that is not seated, I sanded a wedge into a scrap plank, and glued it behind the misaligned plank. Doing that avoided any cutting into existing planking and provided a base which will hold up to sanding. Onto the next step... More Planks.... 😉
  2. Redshadowrider
    TA - DAH..... Don't ya' love it when a plan works from start to finish. Here is the completed result, with only sanding left to do. One other recommendation....... which I didn't take a photo of. Once I completed the gun ports, and test fitted the transom, before I glued it on, I took a 5X7 card stock and traced out the part. If you look at my final picture, you can see where a crack is glued together and I was still able use. If I couldn't have fixed it, the traced part would have saved one heck of a lot of rework.
  3. Redshadowrider
    .....And now, the transom: I have read through several build threads, the instruction booklet, and the forum thread that Chuck has created. I can tell you, this is one step that, as a newbie, needs a paragraph or two of explanation. Every one that I read (except Chuck's), starts me to question why it is curved on the bottom. I am sure it needs the curve, but it seems more than likely will not have one. 😄 And it seems we all arrive at the same place with the same question. The biggest issue is getting the gun ports to line up correctly after they are cut into the transom. Not much room for error here, as the transom overhang on the starboard and port sides is not very big, nor is the distance (1/16") from the bottom of the transom to the bottom of the sill. Added to that is the angle needed to make sure the sills remain level, and square to the holes in the transom. Some posts that I read had problems with aligning the transom, and I spent some time considering how to do this. Particularly since the gun ports are already painted red and any filing on the ship will require repainting.. So here is what I did. First, I clamped the transom, in position on the counter after I removed the curved portion of the transom bottom, fitted the piece to the counter, and marked the gun ports from inside. Then I removed the transom and drilled a hole in each gun port. Second, I began using a small file and eventually bigger ones to complete the filing to the gun port size. After the filing was complete for both ports, I removed the transom from the ship. (BTW: Doing it this way allowed me to use the file and the correct angle in order to keep the sills and lintels level. Both gun ports are completed to the sills and lintels. Now I use my templates for the last 2 gun ports. Both ports are now the correct size and the transom is clamped to the counter. Next step is to line it up on the outside for gluing.....but first I will repaint the frames red.
  4. Redshadowrider
    I will take a look at yours. Thanks Overworked. I looked at it and “may” do mine that way, but decided to approach it differently. I have removed the slight curve by squaring off the bottom. It seems to match up, when I compare the distance from the sill to the transom on both ports. As I go along, I will make other measurements and checking photos on other builds. And, I test fitted the transom overlay..the arched piece....and it looks good too, but, I will keep looking.
  5. Redshadowrider
    What to do, what to do? As you can see from the picture, the exact curve of the transom is not exactly a match to the plank on the counter. My question is do I just shape the transom to match the plank, or modify the plank to match the curve? My thought is that it is much easier to match the transom to the planking, and I don't think it will throw anything off, but before I do, I thought I should ask. I was able to get the lintels and sills on the gun ports to fit correctly, and they are now level to each other.
  6. Redshadowrider
    I had visions of counting planks and being off one row of planks, one plank on one side being the wrong size for the wale....and on and on. Since I used CA for the glue, I was not looking forward to fixing it. But, if this does it, I dodged a non-existent bullet. 😀 scary thoughts.
  7. Redshadowrider
    Thank you Walrus. That is exactly what it is, and add to that an optical illusion. It's like in those no gravity houses that have water that runs uphill. I have attached a picture that shows the parts that need to be shifted. Won't do the middle one, it is hidden anyway. If you look closely, I have removed the transom template from the plans and clipped it to where it will be when glued on. Then, I have done what you have recommended. I checked the canon heights in the gun ports. I draped a short piece of string with weights on both ends over the top plank at the counter. The amount that the string intersects with the RED port painting is just about the same that is needed at the bottom of the port. So if I remove the red parts below the string, move it to the bottom, clean it up, I will be right on target. The irony is that it is just the sills and lintels being off and the rest is mostly optical illusion. I measured everything, counted boards, checked their sizes, removed the planks that extended beyond the counter, then test fit the transom. If I clean up just the lintels and sills, it will all work. And lastly the starboard side on the counter is lower than the port side. When I remove the excess above the transom, everything will be where it should and the optics will also change. It's weird, but very little is wrong. 😄
  8. Redshadowrider
    Whoa, OOPS (PIck Either): As you can see from the pictures, I have reached the counter/transom stage, and somethin' just ain't right. 😄 The black line has been drawn from port to starboard using the top plank as the base. The level shows that the ship and planking are level, but the counter/transom is somewhat off. Well more than somewhat, it's an outright mistake. However, knowing where that mistake is, is what I am trying to figure out. -The sills for both gun ports are not quite level, but not so far off as to create the problem with the gun port lintels. -I have measured the gun port sizes, and they are right at the 15/32" in height, so they are not off. -I checked the curve of the counter sides and it is the same on both port and starboard. -And the base plank is in the right spot. -Checked the width of all planks and they are as supposed to be. I am pretty sure I have to reposition the sills and lintels, to ensure they are at the right level. The top plank on port and starboard help locate the lintels, and I think I should start there and work my way down to the sills. However, before I cut them out and move them, I would like some input. From what I can tell, the issue is in the counter/transom build, but I want to make sure I am not missing something.
  9. Redshadowrider
    Ongoing Question: As I continue through the build, I have noticed that the planking appears to have the finish in place. I am planning to use Tung oil, the question is when should I add the finish? Reading the forum on finishing, has not helped much as a common answer seems to be “...it depends.” 🙂
  10. Redshadowrider
    Port Side: Upper planking is now almost complete, just need to cut out the Sweep Ports openings. All are marked and should take about 30 - 45 minutes. Then it will be on to the transom area, with one issue ....however... In completing the planking, there is a very small difference between the two. So small that it is barely noticeable, but it did help me find an issue. Although I used my canon template and a 1/16" inch thick plank, it is lower in one port than the other. In looking at it, either the sills, or the lentils are off level. I suspect a transom measurement mistake. If you look at Post #98 it is the upside down transom view. The lentils all line up across, but the sills are not level. The upper left support does not match up with the other two. However, it is the first thing on my list for tomorrow, to check. I really need to get a better stool for the workbench though, my back is killing me after the planking. BTW: The 2 templates for the gun port doors is exactly what I needed to square up the gun ports. And I was able to plank somewhat faster because I just put a template in side by side gun ports and measuring the plank length was not required. Here are the pics:
  11. Redshadowrider
    Starboard Planking Done: Well, at least above the wale, and I still have the sweep ports to finish. Rather than try to finish the sweep ports during the planking process I did the bottoms as I installed the planking which left a small gap where the sweep port is located. To this end, my plan is to go back, find the small gap and clean it out to the right size. It is my last step before going over to the port side and doing all this again. Such is the life of a ship builder.. do one side and then do it all over. 😁 Newbie Note: Rather than constantly moving from deck side to outside hull when cleaning out the sweep ports, I built another template. It is 1/8" x 1/8" square and will allow me to check the size on the outside while doing the clean out. A patent is ok, as usual. 😄
  12. Redshadowrider
    NEWBIE TIP: Once you get to this point, you are going to find out that bending planks is an ongoing part of the process. I have set it up where I have one soaking in water, and another on the bending jig. I have been bending only one at a time as my planking didn't need much more than one every once in awhile. Now, however, I am at the bow and doing gun port sides, and the need for bent planking is greater. I started to notice small grooves in the planking material left by the jig and the screw threads. It's not a big deal, but I do want to have a clean plank to start with. To get rid of the grooves, I took some RC fuel line and screwed it on the jig parts. ....No more grooves.......👍
  13. Redshadowrider
    You are right Justin, once I tried cutting the planks off of the hull, it went much smoother, and any mistakes can be easily corrected. That's how I am doing it now. And if you patent the gun port template, I suggest that you sell them in pairs. You were right that 2 is what is needed.👍 As soon as I started planking around the gun ports, I saw the need for another. And ta-dah, added another and now I can make sure both gun port planks are right sized with ease. Here's a pic.
  14. Redshadowrider
    So far, it’s going good with the template. Now all I am doing is trying to decide on one thing. Do I put the plank on the bulkhead then cut out the plank opening? Or, do I mark it out, then cut out the openings before gluing the plank to the hull? I have tried both and prefer to mark, cut out the openings whenever possible, then glue in place. Any mistakes in cutting the openings is off of the hull, and not on. I haven’t had a big mistake cutting the planks, but, when it is on hull, it is inevitable that the gun port sill is very easy to scratch and going back and repainting is a pain. I have two sills that will need to be touched up. That’s much better than 18......... 😀
  15. Redshadowrider
    One Template 18 ports: After reading the planking instructions for above the wales, I decided that there will be enough cutting and measuring that I needed a better way. So I fashioned a small plug template to help me build the port doors while off of the model. It should also make it much easier to mark the planking for cutting as I build. Yes, you can patent this one too. 👍
  16. Redshadowrider
    I like how it came out. The instructions said to not use real red, so I didn’t. 😉
  17. Redshadowrider
    Symmetrical, Smooth, and Painted Red I have just added the top Wale plank on both the port and starboard sides. It took me awhile to get it right. Newbie Warning: I actually glued on both wales before realized that one plank was lined up with the top, and the other with the bottom. I was able to pop off the one put on incorrectly and re-glue it without any damage being done. The last thing I need to do is mess up on planking...and on the first plank. LOL The Red is Vallejo Flat Red, and Flat Brown mixed about 5 red to 1 brown. (eye balled mostly) Still reading about planking... 😁
  18. Redshadowrider
    Four Hours of Filing, Cutting, and of course Sanding, I have the basic form for the filler blocks ready. I am sure that there will be minor adjustments, but for now these will do. And..I still have the rabbet.. 😉 On to Chapter 5: Hull Planking
  19. Redshadowrider
    Sanding Again: Surprise 😄 I have added the filler blocks at the sternpost as in the previous post and have sanded the starboard side. It ain't as purty as the picture in the instructions, but I think it looks good for my first time. On to the port... yes, the port side, not the liquid.
  20. Redshadowrider
    After looking at the picture online and comparing what there is of the rudder, and re-reading the instructions for the fifteenth time, I added another block side by side with the first ones. I also looked through other build threads and it needs 2 side by side. They are in place now.... although, sanding and shaping is not going to be easy. The rabbet is just sitting there saying “hey, don’t hit, or sand me at all....”. 😀
  21. Redshadowrider
    Question on preceding picture. I have looked at the transom area in the instructions both printed and online. For each filler block, I used a 3/16” x 1/4 block. Should I add one more block (same size) beside each block? I think the answer is yes, but wanted to check.
  22. Redshadowrider
    Time for a Break - (sort of) As you can see in the picture, I have added the filler blocks at the the stern. I have yet to sand them, but I just glued them in place this morning. I will get them sanded when glue is dry,.......but.... In reading the instructions, it says that if you haven't had any experience in planking a ship, it is recommended that I read a book on planking. I don't have the one by the author cited, but I do have "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders" by Donald Dressel. I am going to sit down and read it so I can get some insight. (132 pages) Once I have read it, I pick back up on the construction.
  23. Redshadowrider
    Just a couple of update pictures. The first is the transom with the sills added and sanded. Still a little to go, but for now, they are fine. The second picture is of the building board that I built with the holders in place for an upside down model placement. They are able to move side to side and the arms allow for forward and backward angles when needing a different view of the bottom. Well, back to the transom. (Oh, almost forgot, yes, I cut out the mini-12 pounder template and it fits perfectly in each gun port)... 1/16" allowed for the deck planking.
  24. Redshadowrider
    I know that I shouldn’t say this because it will come back to haunt me....... so far, I have yet to break any stanchions on the main deck even though it’s probably the most sanded area,,,,,,,so I still have time. 😃
  25. Redshadowrider
    Stern framing started I am not near finished, but thought I would add this from a newbie point of view. Newbie Note: If you are new to this, please heed the warnings in the instructions that this is a delicate piece of construction. I have had to re-glue one of the vertical pieces as it came out of the form cracked and I did not notice until I went to add it to the assembly. In addition, I recommend assembling this on a piece of straight material that can be accidentally glued, but still allowing the whole piece to be removed after glue dries. (There are separate pieces to assemble, and keeping a straight and level line can be difficult.) I used an adjustable square and followed the edge for both straight and level gluing. I did this only after I tried to assemble it piece by piece with no form. I still have to straighten the far right double brace, but it is only out of square by very little. Any who, it is drying now and final adjustments will be made when the sills and tops are added later.

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