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Redshadowrider

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  1. Redshadowrider
    Testing Results: I have completed 4 different examples of tree nail builds shown below. I would be interested in knowing which you think is best? (Funny, in the pictures, they look pretty much the same.) 1. Done using natural wood filler. 2. Using a sharpened pencil to outline the holes. 3. Using the tree nails that I made with the drill press and needle. 4. Using the tree nails from the press, and staining the nails in cherry wood stain. Picture 1 is with 1 coat of tung oil, and picture 2 is with 3 coats of tung oil.
  2. Redshadowrider
    Regarding the mini x-y table, I am impressed. For the price, it is worth money, albeit not a heavy duty table. It’s features, and quality are quite surprising for the price. If you are considering it, there is an unboxing video on you tube that sums it up better than I could. I do, however, consider it to be a light duty tool.
  3. Redshadowrider
    @Justin P. Not sure which bits you are asking about. If it is the wood type for the tree nails, I just grabbed a piece of wood I had on hand. Just let me know and I will be happy to respond...just haven’t had my coffee yet.. ☕️
  4. Redshadowrider
    Makin' Nails in the Rain..... Its gotta be a song. 😀 @Overworked724@WalrusGuy@Justin P. Well, I got the chance to make nails today. It's crappy weather, COVID, and College Football affecting my day. This morning, the mini x-y table, and the 20 ga needles arrived and i went to work. Setting up the press, sanding the needle for a clean cut, and mounting it in the press. You can see that making the nails, once the equipment is ready, is quite easy. And I was able to insert the nail in the hole drilled into the plank, glue it in, cut and sand it as well. The pictures pretty much tell the story. I am going to do testing as that first drilled hole, with the tung oil, does pop out, but the hole is somewhat rough on the edges. I think it is from the pin vise drill and the low speed I had with the bit by only hand drilling it. In my testing, I will use the dremel for drilling. I have the flexible extension, so I won't have to use the motor end. However, I am looking at some of the micro engravers, like Overworked used.
  5. Redshadowrider
    Thanks For the thoughts Overworked, it is appreciated that I can be of help even as a newbie. And it is good to know others as yourself are quick to assist me when I have questions. I know what you are saying about the COVID issue, I still have a hard time understanding why someone laying in a hospital bed still can’t believe it’s what they have. My brother-in-law and my aunt are still on the road to recovery. With our new grandson we are remaining pretty much quarantined so we can visit again. Good luck and stay healthy.
  6. Redshadowrider
    Instructions Question: It says in the printed instructions that the waterline is marked in the plan. I have been looking, but I want to make sure I am looking at the right place. On Plan 1, there are dotted lines at the bow and the stern that appear to mark the end points. Is that the plan #, and the correct indicators?
  7. Redshadowrider
    In Every Build: There comes a time when "everything in its place" isn't. 😀 Usually when I get to a convenient pause in building activity, I take my mess and organize it back to where I started. Over time, files, sanding boards, pencils, and just everything in general get tossed out of the way. I might be holding a part, trying to balance something, or similar, and I just put the tool down where there is a spot. Sooooo..... today is that day. The x-y table and 20 ga needles will be here tomorrow, or Monday. So I am taking a breather and took the time to straighten out my bench. It still looks like a mess, but it is an organized one and I know where things are. 😃 Building to resume with tree nails when I have the stuff to do them.
  8. Redshadowrider
    Thanks for the compliment, and the tape idea. What I am going to need to test thoroughly, is the placement of the tree nails in the holes. I am pretty sure I will be able to do it. In the picture that I posted, you can see the small screws that are holding the instruments in. Each one had to be glued in separately.
  9. Redshadowrider
    Thanks @Overworked724 I am itching to get some Tung oil on this, but I gotta test the nails first. What I have to do is see if I can drill, fill, or add a tree nail before I move on. I have to see if my vision and hand eye coordination is still there for the detail stuff. Here is a picture of my latest detail work in the red and white plane I showed earlier. I can’t take credit for the dials, but it all came in a kit and the faces had to be cut from a sheet of dials. I used a T pin to puncture the outer rims, multiple times. (Will add a pic when I get to the right media.). ......LOL made it.
  10. Redshadowrider
    A Waling We Will Go: I have added both the port and starboard wales and have done some minor sanding clean up I have not installed the hull strake as I have yet to decide if I am going with tree nails or not. If I go ahead with the tree nailing, I do not want to have this in the way while trying to clip and sand the tree nails. The more I look at the width of the planks (1/8"), I am wondering if I should pursue it. Something that I did was to run the pencil for the caulking along the corner of each plank, rather than fully across the width. What that means is that in some planks, you can sand through the pencil line and it starts to disappear. Maybe the tung oil will bring it back out, but won't know till I apply it. Otherwise, it is cleaning up pretty well 😀
  11. Redshadowrider
    I have multiple pin vises, and sets of mini drill bits. And a jewelers visor with 4 different magnifications for close in work. I do agree that testing is a must. I plan on a Tung oil finish and by using some of the different wood I have. I need to test as much for final outcome of the finish as much as anything. And I still need a tiny tiny hammer. 😂 i am not touching the model until I know I can do it.
  12. Redshadowrider
    Heads or Nails i have been mulling over the possibility of not adding the tree nails to this build. The more I think about it, the more I come to the conclusion that the time spent is worth it. Maybe I will settle on using wood filler, but I do have an x-y table on the way and some soft wood blocks from plane building that will work well for making wood nails. If your reservations on adding them is just the tedious process, I am not concerned. If it is my skill level, then feel free to explain the difficulties I will encounter. I can take it...... 🤪
  13. Redshadowrider
    @Overworked724 I reread your process and just missed the 20 gauge needle part. I did get the map pin ground down tip though... 😀 It's Waling Time!: NO.....not that..... THIS: I am doing what each of you have suggested and thinking over the treenail part. I will do a test run with scrap material to see if I will continue planning them. In the mean time, I have the wales to add and am wondering if I should sand the hull before adding? I have done some in the area where the 3 wales will be attached, but it is not finish sanding by any means. Just enough to smoothly support the wale planks. As you can see, I did mark the bulkheads in anticipation of adding the tree nails. Between Covid and Winter, I got time.
  14. Redshadowrider
    @Overworked724 I am planning to make tree nails using the drill press method that you used. Can you provide me the actual needle size that you used?
  15. Redshadowrider
    If You are a Newbie (Like me): About now, you are at this point, are saying to yourself..... Now I need a plank ripping device that can cut at an angle. Well, that's what I am saying. According to the math, I need 22 planks to fit into a slot, not made for that many. So I need to shave off about 5/32" and leave 3 allowing the 22 planks to fit the bow. (I have decided to split the planks somewhere in the middle, on a bulkhead so I can bend them at both ends. Thanks to @Overworked724 for giving me an idea how to make one. I used 3 steel rulers (6", 18" and 1 meter) to create a channel to fit and hold the plank in place for cutting. Using the 18" and 1 meter, they are long enough to create the small channel. The 6" is used to actually cut the plank with a razor blade. (it is thinner than a #11 X-acto blade.) And all the clamps, and cutting board competes the platform. Here are 2 pics, One of the "Linear Plank Cutting Machine" and the results on the bow. 😀
  16. Redshadowrider
    LOL...Thanks, I never thought about trying the cutting method. Looks like a new #11 blade, and a very sharp pencil, and I will be good to go.
  17. Redshadowrider
    It came to the point where I had to dust off my algebra skills, and determine how much material to remove from each plank. This is the bow portion where each 1/8” plank needs to be narrowed to allow for all 22 planks to be added. It’s funny, in a way, that I am better at trig, than algebra. So I struggled in reconstructing the “X” equals memories, but after quite a while, I finally reached the answer... 3/32” for the width of each plank. So I decided to reread the instructions to ensure accuracy. As Murphy's Law intervened, here is what I found in the instruction booklet: .........measure the size of the gap at bulkhead “N” and divide that by 22 or 23 strips. The answer you get will be the width those 22 strips need to be tapered to. The planks at the bow will be tapered to around 3/32” wide (give or take)....... My answer?..... after resurrecting my algebra?... 3/32" It was right there in print. 😀 BTW: Can anyone point me in the direction of how to narrow the planks to the narrowed width? It's like trying to sand a wet noodle and it keeps flipping in it's side.
  18. Redshadowrider
    And the Total Irony..... When I got this finished, I looked at the front point of Garboard. It turned out to be exactly where the picture in the instruction book shows. In an effort to get more space, I “accidentally” got it in the right place. Who knew? 😃
  19. Redshadowrider
    And Now, for Something Completely Different..... I decided to try a little different process to get the Garboard to match the curve in, at least, one direction. I started by taping a small piece of file card behind the stem on the plans, then turned it over to the plan face. I took a small map pin and copied the curve by punching through to the card. After this, I cut out the curve and tried to match where it started, to where the plank ended. It is, in no way, exact, but it can get you close so sanding is less. Then I soaked the plank a little longer than normal and put it in the curve jig. The curve needed is close to the jig I build for the bow planks. While it was still damp, I fit (forced) it into the rabbet and clamped it as close to position as I could get. Then I glued the dry bulkhead contact points and removed the clamps, and worked the rest into place with my fingers. (Just as Overworked recommended.) 😀 It didn't come out perfect, but for my first one I am ok with it. It's much easier once you realize that the copper plates will be placed over them anyway. Fill it here an there is small spots and it will work fine. Also meant to add, that I did the tick strip measure and it came out to 22 planks...right on the money.
  20. Redshadowrider
    Thanks guys, I tried to dry fit a plank, and it also creates a compound curve. This is also difficult when building and covering an airplane. Unfortunately, unlike covering, wood doesn’t stretch very much. 😄
  21. Redshadowrider
    @Overworked724 I am now at the point where the Garboard is to be added. I was reading your log, and saw your comment about not going all the way to bulkhead N. I am wondering if you went ahead with installing it this way? Or did you go ahead and curve it to bulkhead N? And would you do it the same way again?
  22. Redshadowrider
    Think Outside of the Box; It's the new Paradigm, Work Smarter Not Harder..... or whatever floats your corporate boat. 😀 I decided that I would try soaking both ends of the planking that is making up the wales, and that was a good choice. However, it meant that I would soak a plank, add in the curve on the jig, then have to soak it again to make sure the stern would match the curve of the counter. So I made a decision to split the planks somewhere in the middle and soak them separately. The butt joints will either be under the wale, or will be copper plated, so a joint is not a big deal. This way, I can soak the plank for the bow, and when I applied it, I could mark out a bulkhead on which to glue the center of the plank. I am staggering them so that the butt joints are not on the same bulkhead. Now, I can be working on the bow (fairly easy) while the stern section is soaking. Then when I am ready, I can add the stern part of the plank, glue it to several bulkheads and clamp it around the counter while it is still wet and pliable. After it dries, I can glue and shape the plank as needed. Now that is synergy.... LOL...
  23. Redshadowrider
    Now, that’s funny, I looked right at it and it didn’t register...duh. 🤫 I just tossed out a small container of the same stuff. It matches balsa pretty well.
  24. Redshadowrider
    LOL, I was just looking at your build at this same area. Did it say what filler you used? I was mostly looking at the pictures. 😁
  25. Redshadowrider
    Planking the Curve: I have plenty of clamps, but have run out of room for them while planking around the counter at the wales. Any suggestions on how this should be done will be appreciated. I am thinking of upping the soaking time of each plank, but not sure if I am just making it harder on myself. Currently am looking through build logs at this process to see if someone has a better idea. Here is my clamping cobweb 😃

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