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Redshadowrider

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Everything posted by Redshadowrider

  1. Redshadowrider
    Finally Success on Flemish Coils! There are 3 pictures below that show how I finally resolved the problem of coils coming apart when removing the jig. Last round, I was 4 for 4, with all holding their shape and not unraveling. 1. The first picture shows the parts of the jig. A mandrel and screw from my dremel tool is put to use. The two disks are Math Counters and are easily found on Amazon. Please note the center hole and one drilled right beside it on the darker disk. The coil line is threaded through the offset hole. Then, the top disk (yellow) is placed on top of the darker disk and screwed in place. 2. By holding the line in place, the long part of the line is wrapped around the screw to form the coil. Please note that the yellow disk has 4 holes drilled around the center hole. These 4 holes allow me to inject water/glue to be injected directly onto the coiled thread. 3. The completed coil is placed in a block of wood and left to dry. Once dried, the mandrel and screw are removed, and the coil is gently removed for install on the ship. You can also see a slot cut into the top disk. It was another of my test jigs that didn’t work very well. HINT Using a lighter colored disk on top is the best way to view the line as it is coiled around the mandrel screw.
  2. Redshadowrider
    Out of the 3 coils pictured, only 1 came out. The other 2 uncoiled from the center out when I attempted to take them off of the jig. I am going to try another method and will provide an update. At a 3 to 1 average, completion rate, it will take longer than my patience will last.
  3. Redshadowrider
    Still Struggling with Rope Coils I am getting through the coils (at a snails pace), but run into the same problem on each. When I am ready to remove the pin and plastic disks in to release the coil, it pulls the center of the coil and the string unravels from the center out. I have tried several things, but it has been hit or miss. I am using a syringe to inject a water glue mix and sometimes it works, but not that well.
  4. Redshadowrider
    OFF AND RUNNING Only 57 more to go. I am working on making the deck coils and have 7 done. Looking at the new ones, I have decided to replace those already installed. They look more like they should and better now that I figured out how to make them.
  5. Redshadowrider
    Ok, couple of pics. They are of the tool I put together to make coiled ropes for deck cannon. Very simple, 2 pieces of plastic, small nail and wood “handle” for handling…hehe.
  6. Redshadowrider
    Well, I am back going to pick up again where I left off. My focus has been on my RC flying, and I have been concentrating on that. I have been a club officer, and have been busy with that. When I got to the cannon rigging, I became very frustrated by how little room I had to work with. However, the biggest issue was my shaking hands. I have always had this issue, but with the planes I fly, not in such limited space. Well, I am now going to work my way through it. I will add some pics soon, particularly one of the tool I constructed to use for rope coils. Any way, I am excited to be building again, and will provide updates. I am still breathing and have been well….so here I go.
  7. Redshadowrider
    @abelson To be honest, I haven’t worked on the ship for a few weeks now. This is a good time of the year for flying, and, I have had maintenance chores on several planes that has taken my time. As the fall progresses, I will get back to work on it and provide updates.
  8. Redshadowrider
    One Down..... I don't even want to count how many to go. This is one frustrating phase on this build. I will say, that my absence from here is due mainly to not working on the ship for a couple of weeks. We have had some activities at our flying field that have occupied my time. Labor Day, yearly invitational with out of state flyers spending 5 days flying and B.S.ing. And it just won't turn to fall temperatures here. Now, I am back at it, but I still have miles to go. Here is my first rigged carronade. I think it came out ok considering how much detail is in such a small space. One thing I am going to look into is how to make the coiled rope touch the deck completely.
  9. Redshadowrider
    One Down 71 to Go:😅 Got my first blocks and tackle in place on the carronade. Just 71 more, and I will be done.....uh-huh. Sorry about the picture quality in the close up. (I decided to remove the other picture. I thought this would be better.) It is not that visible without the glaring light and a little distance. Well back to the kitchen table. 👍 OOPS... For those expert riggers, you may have noticed that the outhaul block is at the back end of the carronade. Fear not, I noticed this when I went back to continue. It is now fixed and is attached to the bulwark. 😁
  10. Redshadowrider
    Hooks & Tackles: I have completed the installation and bending of the hooks on each tackle. I counted enough (64) to be able to get through all of the carronades. In fact, just in case, I did 65, but in bending the hook, it "sproinged" off into never never land. It is possible that it fell right back into my pile of tackles and hooks, but time will tell. I am either even or 1 extra to complete the rigging of the carronades. In the pictures, you can see the completed tackles/hooks and also one that shows a small jig I put together for help in rigging each tackle assembly. Pics are below..... Newbie Tip: For gluing each tackle block and hook, I used a "glue looper" which is a tool I didn't even know existed. It is invaluable for gluing in small amounts in a small area. I recommend it highly. In the second picture, you can see a mixing cup tipped upside down. The small shallow cup is formed on the bottom and can be used for holding CA as you work through each tackle. The glue stays in liquid form until you are ready to fill the looper end. And it is still clean for mixing epoxy or paint, etc. later.
  11. Redshadowrider
    We have been married almost 44 years. I learned ages ago, that it is best not to ask. 😉
  12. Redshadowrider
    Progress is Slow and Tedious: Unfortunately, my building area is in the garage. Most of the time it is bearable, but this time of year, it is a sauna. Indoor temps have been ranging around 95-100, and that doesn't figure in the heat index. Soooo, I got permission from the Admiral to temporarily do some constructing at the kitchen table. I have 4 carronades in place and breech lines attached, but have temporarily halted their install. And on top of that, we visited our first grandson for his 1st birthday, so I took a rest. I have started building out the tackles for the carronades, and am doing the wire for the hooks first. Once that is done, it will be time to bend them in a curve and snip off. So far, I have done enough for 7 carronades with one left for a single side of the Syren. It is going well, but drilling the small holes for the hook is a pin vise process. Any drilling under power ensures that I would probably have a lot of drill dust. 😄 ......but it is air conditioned.
  13. Redshadowrider
    Second Cannon & Newbie Tip: I have completed the breech line on the second cannon, and had an idea how to make the sagging lines the same on both sides. I have colored the line with a couple of colors of pastel chalk (yellow orange and brown) then sealed it with bees wax. To keep the length on both sides of the cannon, I inserted a long pin through the line on each side under the base. I let it sit to allow the breech line to keep its shape and then carefully pulled it out. Both sides sag the same and are the same length. (I might do the first cannon over, but will wait to see how it looks with all the others.) My guess is it will fade into the background. I will now spend my time completing the starboard side and then onto the port. Unless I find something that really needs posting, I will wait until the starboard breech lines are completed for another update.
  14. Redshadowrider
    Gotta give you a huge amount of credit @Overworked724 on your custom side projects. As a newbie to this hobby, I spend my time thinking how to make things easier. 😁
  15. Redshadowrider
    I Think it is Passable: I did check the Syren Ship model site and the ropes section is under construction. It appears that the source of their rigging lines is changing. So, I decided to try with what I have since it is the very first time that I have worked rigging. Here is the breech line on the first cannon and I think it will pass. I was very clumsy at first, but as I progressed, I started to get a hang of the rigging line. It is going to be an adventure to say the least, but I think I can do it now. I have gained a new respect for those that do this as a hobby.... 👍
  16. Redshadowrider
    Thanks, I will take a look at it. I was planning on using what is in the kit, but it will not be a big change since I have just started.
  17. Redshadowrider
    Quick Question: I am having trouble finding the size of the thread used to lash the breach line to the rings on the bulwarks. Can someone answer this?
  18. Redshadowrider
    It Ain't Purty, yet........ .....but I have got my first (very first) breech line in place. Newbie Tip: See that blue tape?.... It's there for a reason. After losing 2 eyebolts down to the lower deck, I sealed it up. 😄 Newbie Tip 2: If you are looking for a good source of information on how to run rigging, search on "Threading" There are a lot of threads to read, and some info on how to resolve.
  19. Redshadowrider
    I am Stumped........ After going over the port and starboard onboard plans for cleats, eye bolts, and split rings, (feels like a thousand times), I am done adding them to the bulwarks. ……ready to start adding cannon. I am sure I have missed one or two rings, but I will find out soon. However, I am stuck and not sure where to look. I have searched, and have yet to find information on how to begin attaching the lines. I am trying to begin adding the breach lines first, and on the first cannon, I have yet to find a kind of guide. I do not know how to use the tools that I got from Micro Mark, nor do I know the process for running the breach lines through those tiny little rings and eye bolts. All I am looking for is either a thread, site, or place to read up on "how" it is done. When I look for it, I get a high number of responses, but they are how to build the block lines. With hooks, I have that figured out in my mind, threading the lines through the eye bolts has me stumped. I have added the pic for interest.... the breach line bolts on the cannon have been sized to accept the thread, which I have colored using chalk, and beeswax as a sealer. It's how do I thread the eye bolts as they are already installed. ⁉️
  20. Redshadowrider
    "Tim the tool man." here.... 😄 Because this is from the perspective of a first timer for this type of work, I think it is beneficial if I include those hand built aids I come up with. I am probably, not the first, nor do I say these are fine engineering. They do get the immediate task done if and when I have a lot of repeats. Two Items here are the "eye bolt and split ring template" and the "multi-cleat pinning jig" Neither of which look like much...LOL, but they got done what I needed. The split ring template allowed me to mark all the gun ports on starboard and port without having to measure each one. I the template (shown) slips into the gun port from the deck side, and a fine point marker is used to locate the eye bolt and split ring positions. After marking one side, I drilled each hole for the bolt or split ring, It made it much easier to drill, then start inserting the parts. Keeps switching tools to a minimum, which I like. The "multi-cleat pinning jig" allowed me to take two medium soft "balsa" stock pieces and press each cleat along the edge of one. I used green tape to help hold them in position. Then the second balsa block was gently pressed over the cleats...pinning them in place. Then using a mini drill bit chuck on the press, I drilled the pin hole in the bottom. Before removing from the blocks, I glued in the pins, which were made using the cut off pieces of eye bolts for the pin. They are stiffer than the 28 gauge wire, and since I had saved them, they worked great.
  21. Redshadowrider
    Internal View..... I thought it would be a good idea to show the internal workings.
  22. Redshadowrider
    Building a Simple Tumbler... Several videos on the net can provide instructions on how to do these, so I will stay away from them and they are easy to find.. I did order a small one from Micro Mark, that just got here 45 minutes ago. Price comparison is that buying the parts to build one from scratch cost twice as much. 😀 Although, mine is metal, can be cranked with a handle, or a drill, with 400 grit sandpaper, it is taking a while to tumble the 300 some odd blocks. I also used sandpaper that has the "non-slip" backing for all of the internals. I find it lasts longer anyway, and the non slip is a bonus. Here are my pics... Final Note: Pay attention to how you insert and spin the internal flapping sander part. You will want to "drag" the sandpaper along the cans' edge, rather than push it around. Pushing just tends to rip the paper off of the center spindle. If your drill is reversible, you can change direction. I have run mine counter clockwise for 5 minutes, with my hand drill, and all parts are still in place.
  23. Redshadowrider
    Well Here I Am: A bag of wood bits, a roll of wire (28 gauge), 18 carronades, and a roll of thread that could use better coloring. I am not really looking forward to this, but the decision has been to rig the Syren to include the rigging beyond the breach lines. I have decided to work the color of the breach lines to make it look more like large woven rope. The color that came with the kit is just too manufactured to look like real rope. So, I took a box of colored chalk that I have and began to try to change the breach lines look more real. I have arrived at a color I like, but stupid me, I forgot to keep track of the chalk that I used and how much.. 🤯 The main objective is to keep the lines similar enough in color, but not exact so that the breach lines do not look like thread. You can see my first attempt in the picture. I have 21 different chalk colors that I sand to make colored powder from. I usually use them for detailing the face of an RC Airplane pilot, but in this case it is the breach line. The other item is the 28 gauge wire, and the small, small, wooden blocks that need sanding.... Oh boy, can't wait. I can hardly see them let alone sand their shapes. But...I am gonna try. I went ahead and bought from Micro Mark, a tumbling canister. I will take about 30-40 of the blocks and run them through the tumbler in order to soften their edges. If this works like I have read in threads and posts, I should be successful. In any case, this will probably mean the next post will be around Thanksgiving...which in a weird way will be appropriate. LOL I will keep the log updated with pics and such, but I may not have much to show for awhile. "I am off to see the wizard...." hehe.
  24. Redshadowrider
    I like that as well. When I have a small locking plastic bag I use that too. I need as much space as I can get. My workbench gets small no matter its size, when I am in working on something. Between each project , I start on one side of the bench , work my way over to the other side. Some things stay on the top of the bench, and others are put back where they should be. 🤭
  25. Redshadowrider
    And A Side Note for Newbies: If you build like I do...not just the ships, but the RC stuff, there are usually 3 or 4 sub processes also underway. In this case, I am still adding all the deck hardware, i.e. split rings and eyebolts. Since I am always trying to work a little ahead when I can, I try to avoid having parts just sitting on the bench. I found something that I like just by accident. It may be an old tip, but it has worked well for me. When building an RC airplane, a lot of epoxy can be part of the assembly. I started using mixing cups, and still do, when I have a lot of epoxy to mix. For the myriad of small parts this type of model has, I started with a small set of drawer bins, but when I am working with the parts, I have them on the bench. I separated by type and put them in a mixing cup. Each different part gets its own cup, and then I stack them. The top cup can be left empty so it can serve like a lid. Your system may be the best, but this works for me and helps me find the parts when needed... Just look for the mixing cups.

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