Redshadowrider
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Everything posted by Redshadowrider
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Ready, Soak, Snap..... I have now wasted 2 cap strips for the transom. For the third attempt, I have made a form that will provide better support during the bending process. The issue is when bending the strip onto the sides of the transom. Other than that, I did manage to cut the piece in 1/2, but the curve from top to side still doesn’t want to follow the curve. I am using hot water to soak the strip, but I am thinking, I need to get it to the boiling point. Will add pics later.
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LOL... This is why I am taking a break from RC scale. I spend as much time detailing out the cockpit as I did on the rest of the plane. In the red and white plane earlier in the thread, the instrument panel is a copy of a full scale plane. (Post 160) You can go down the rabbit hole really quickly when deciding how much you want to do. In one plane, I even have a scale Time magazine laying on the back seat. 😄 I am sure I will fix it. Just seeing if there is a better mousetrap on how to do it.
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Another Decision to Make: I have been considering my options for the transom for quite a while now. As you can see in the picture, there is a crack running across the surface. It will not be hidden by the additional piece that surrounds the gun ports and even tree nails will not hide it. I have a few options, of which, each have their pros and cons. I could go ahead and paint it black as some have on their ships, but I would prefer not to. Or, I could sand down the whole transom and replace it. I am not really supportive of this idea because it involves the gun ports and the door areas. Or, I could repair it some other way, and this is my choice. I had a project some years back where I used iron on veneer for a table edge. I have plenty left over (white birch) which would probably match the color and consistency of the planking already in use. To ensure that the transom retains its correct thickness for the cap rail, I could shape the veneer into the area that is exposed after the additional panel is glued on. It would reduce the thickness of the edge, but would keep the rest of the transom at its current thickness. Right now, I am pressing the rolled veneer to ensure it is nearly flat before using. I will then glue on the second panel, and place the white birch veneer in the gun ports area and go ahead and tree nail it. Then sand it paper thin to retain the edge between the two areas. Any input that you have is welcome.
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Latest Pics: I have the transom and its cap to complete and will be ready to move on. Still, it is still pretty cold in the dry dock area. 😁 Here are my latest pictures. Warm days are ahead so a couple of small things to do in the meantime. Newbie Observation: This is not meant as a critical comment, just something I did and it worked out. I waited to add the sheer strake until I had everything done to this point. It seemed to make tree nailing, gluing, and sanding easier because it provided a better sanding and working area on the planks.
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Wales and Nails....... Remember the feeling when you start pulling off the masking (or similar) tape after painting? I still have a few things to fix, but nothing that is a major mistake. However, as far as the taping is concerned, no run through, or seepage along a hull planks. I will take more pictures when back in the shop. It was too cold to paint, so I brought it inside. If you look closely, you can see the tree nails in place. I still have the strakes to add, but those will will be painted, in advance. I will also add a picture of the transom, when it has a little more to show. The only item to fix on the stern is just a small adjustment to the last 1" ahead of the stern post. The port and starboard sides do not match at the stern post, but it's just that last 1".
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Porcupine Pirate: Port side has been nailed and I am just waiting for the glue to dry. After this side is done, it's on to starboard, then to painting the wales and to the waterline. Newbie tips for tree nails: 1. Do not place all of your tree nails out at one time. One slip and you are watching them fly. (No, I used only little amounts at a time.😁) 2. Keep a container of water on hand and keep rinsing your tweezers (if that is what you use) to keep them clean. Over time, they can pick up glue on the tips and cause the tree nails to stick to them. 3. Keep a couple of Q-tips handy and when you leave a glob of water/glue on the tree nail and hull, they will soak it up very easily. No need to sand glue blobs after drying. 4. Keep your pin vise, or drill handy, so when you run across a drilled hole that is not deep enough, you can fix it.
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I Am Still Here. 😀 I am drilling, drilling, and making nails. However, my second needle got clogged with compressed wood. So much so, that even a small sewing needle could not remove the clog. Even soaked it in light oil to see if that would help.....then...💡.... I have a BIC lighter for melting string ends. Put it to the needle, and sure enough, smoke and small sparks came out of both ends clearing out the wood. Back to making tree nails. Not sure you can patent fire. 🥸 Tip Update: Forgot my metallurgy and after burning out the wood and cleaning out the needle, I started more tree nails. Needle snapped due to the heat making the needle brittle...lesson learned. If you can’t clean out the needle, get a new one! 😏 Actually, the best tip is to use harder wood that is dry.
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Keep your needle clean.....and....don't sneeze: Finally, I have reached a point where I have to begin the tree nails. I have stalled as long as I can and now need to get them done. Except for my reluctance to begin drilling holes in the planking, I am ready. In preparation for that, I have started making more tree nails. In doing so, I have found out a couple of things that did not occur to me. 1. The needle that punches out the nails has to be kept clean in it's interior. If you don't, all you end up doing is compressing the wood into the needle and it will leave a hole instead of the pressed out tree nail. I think it is because the wood I am using is not hard wood and it is relatively soft with tree sap still present. When the needle is pressed, it began to push the wood into the needle and it will not release it when the drill press is removed. 2. Don't, in any way sneeze, cough, or blow dust off of your bench. If you do, the tree nails will go with the dust.. (Can't tell you why I know that. 🐡 ) Also, have completed the shaping and painting of the transom. It still has marks on it, but I still have to add another red coat, and clean it up. Next is the cap rail...after the tree nails. One thing that I am happy about is that the small twist in the planking has been hidden pretty well. Once the shape was sanded and area painted, the shape is as it should be. Whew......
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Dry Dock Temporarily Closed Due to Cold Weather... 🥶 and snow.
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@Overworked724 I have been looking over different tree nail posts in preparation for mine. I see that on yours, you used a double nail pattern. I am planning on the single nail pattern as in the instructions, unless there is a compelling reason? Just curious.
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Resolution to Transom Issue Found?: I think I have found a way to ensure that my transom is in the right place, or at least, is set correctly. Because I had cut off the curve of the transom part, it did lower the height just a little. By tracing the outline of the original part, and clipping it to the existing structure, I can determine if the loss of height needs to be adjusted. You can see, in the pictures, that the transom would have been higher, if the curves had been left in. However, this would not take into account the sanding that was done to shape the transom. By using the part outline, I can approximate the original height, and add a strip of 1/16" or less to the curve of the top. The ports might be a little lower, but by testing the canon template in them, I should be fine. More investigation is required just to make sure I do the right thing.
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I think I found where the twist is. Looking at the first picture (Bulkhead 26), the distance from the bulkhead to the first plank is less on the starboard than it is on the port. This put in a small twist that is carried to the top of the planking. If it would have been square, the planks would have lined up correctly. This would mean the other measurements would check out ok, and they do. Since the planks are going to be painted red, it will mostly disappear when that is done.
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I think it is one of those things that bother me because I know it is there. I am pretty sure that it originates back to when I cut off the curved portion of the transom. That does give me a little adjustment when I cap off the transom cap rail. And once I get the bulwarks covered on the deck side it will move to the background even more. Every measurement I take shows that from keel up, the planking is identical on both sides. Also, don’t worry about me catching you, I still have tree nails to do. 😏
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The Mystery Continues: A few posts back, I noted that the transom and gun ports seemed out of alignment. So I set about measuring, checking, and finally concluded that the gun port sills and lintels for the error. I was unable to find anything wrong, other than that and it squared up pretty well. However, after I added the deck side planking on the transom, there it was again. Looking at the picture, you can see the plank that borders the gun port. On the left (as you look at it) the plank is lined up to the bottom, but on the right side it is the top. I have counted the planks above the wale (both sides) and there are 7, checked the sills and lintels and gun ports are fine. So, I am going to just continue and work out the issue when I place the trim planking on the transom. To correct it, it would mean raising it 1/16" on one side and raising it 1/16", on the other, yet all other parts are ok. So, I decided that maybe the best resolution, is to never point it out to anyone... 😁😁 Too cold in the garage to continue, so I am going to break for today.
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Nails, Nails, Nails: A big, big thank you to @Overworked724for showing his method for making tree nails. I was able to make 140 in about 35-40 minutes using his process. I have pictured it here and hope that it is clear to all. It is worth the effort to put together the tools you need to make this work well. Now, if I could just locate one of those "nailers", I would be set. 😁 Newbie Tip: Once you have the block of pressed nails (shown), removing the nails can be helped along. I found that many of them (with dry wood) will just pop out by using the backside of a razor saw and tapping the wood block. More than half of them came right out and I was left with not having to use the map pin to remove many. Those that will not just fall out, will stick out enough to just grab and pull out of the block. I have shown that in one of the pictures. (sub tip: Don't cut your fingernails before making nails. 😆
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It's "Miller", uh, Drying Time: The first coat of Tung Oil has been applied to the hull and now I wait for awhile. It sure makes a difference to look at with the planking now highlighted. Once it is dry, I will start on the Tree Nails, and painting the black areas of the wales, the stem and stern posts, etc. It is tempting to leave the hull without copper, but I will save that for another build. Newbie note: For any out there, it sure helped me to have previous wood shaping experience. The build did have some moments where it was invaluable in knowing what I wanted to do before actually doing it. I have built, and repaired many RC planes that helped to give me a little experience in shaping curved surfaces, and joining them to other parts. However, this was my first stint at bending wood to the shape needed.
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Tree Nail Testing Results: Taking the original test planks, I selected Number 3 for additional testing. On this plank, you can see 2 drilled holes.. (well truly 3) and the results. -The hole to the left has been drilled with a Dremel flexible extension with a handheld pen style end. This did create a smooth drilled hole, but, in handling, it also created the one near to it by accident. Using the flexible extension is somewhat cumbersome, and caused me to accidentally start a hole in the wrong place. Using the extension means that the speed control is on the full size Dremel and does not allow for speed adjustments without a long reach. -The hole on the right arrow was drilled by pen vise, manually and, to me, looks just as good as the first one. And, I had better control with the pin vise than with the extension. (Still, I may buy me a mini engraver so that I can drill without using the pin vise.....TBD) Based on what I am seeing, I think that I will put a coat of Tung Oil on the hull. This should keep the drilled holes to be much cleaner.
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A Little Fill, a Lot of Sanding, and 1 Stern Post: I have finally reached Chapter 6, and have completed the sanding of the hull. It took about 6-8 total hours of hand sanding to get it smooth enough so you are unable to feel any plank edges, and leaving only teeny tiny spaces between some planks. My assumption is that the copper plates will not show any planking edges since the opening is small enough as not to be felt. At least now, I can stop looking at the bottom and begin the deck area. However, before I move on, it is time to either add the tree nails, or not. I am leaning toward adding them, but will test a couple of them on the test planks that I built. I want to see if the tung oil will harden the surface of the planks enough to avoid tearing the wood when drilling the holes for the tree nails. So technically, testing is the next step.
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AHH, but Will She Float?: My first planked hull ready for a little fill here and there, and sanding, sanding, and sanding.😀 I can tell that planking (correctly) is a skill/art that needs to be learned. I also found out that the planking needs a string line, and maybe more measuring points. I did find out that this is a lot like fixing balsa planes that need repair. You have to learn how to see the pattern on the hull and copy it to the planks and 1/8" widths. However, for the first time through, and still finish sanding left, I think it came out ok. ... I now have a question.... I think I am going to do the tree nails, but before I start drilling, I am considering the finish. After all sanding, and filling is done, I would go ahead and put on 1 coat of Tung Oil. I want to harden the surface a little. I am thinking that tearing of the wood around the hole for the tree nail. could be eliminated, or at least reduced by doing the finish, then drilling? Here are the progress pics:
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A Planking We Will Go... I have been able to complete planking on the port side with filling and sanding left. The starboard is nearly done as shown. I think I have found, at least, part of the problem with not having enough space ahead of the "N" bulkhead, but from there to the stern, very little adjustments were needed. I got to looking at the garboard and the 2 planks above it. Even though it did not extend beyond the bulkhead, I did not fit it into the rabbet very well. Add the next 2 planks in to the mix and I just didn't get them fit into the rabbet very well. (Lesson Learned) Also learned that basswood snaps like a twig... if not fully wet... 😀
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Thanks @Overworked724, I was hoping to have it finished before my next update, but have the question about closing it up. I can create at least 1 short (2 to 3) bulkhead fillers. It’s probably not the recommended solution, but once the copper is on, how I fixed it will not be visible.
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Hey guys, it's been a while since I have posted, but have been quite busy planking. 🤪 I have also come to a point where I found out the value of using lines across the hull at different levels. I have measured the Bow (Bulkhead N), the midship and Stern (Counter and Stern Post) more times than I can count. I refigured after each round of plank adds once I started about 10 planks in on top and bottom of the hull. Here are my latest measurements taken at the same places the instructions have indicated: Bow (Bulkhead N) 5/8" remaining, Midship 5/8" remaining, and you might guess the Stern is also 5/8". However, I have an area between the Mid measure and N where I removed too much material and I have a bulge. It's about 1/8 - 1/4 wider than the other points would indicate. I am planning to place a couple of stealers in the bulge area to "soak" up the extra space. With the hull being completely under the copper plates, it will be unseen. I am just wondering if the fix I have planned is ok, assuming that I will make sure to begin and end on a bulkhead for strength purposes? Next hull, it will be string lines so that I do not fall into this again.
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Decisions, Decisions: I remain on the proverbial fence on whether to do the tree nails, or not. In light of this, I have continued to plank the hull, while keeping my options open. I swear, though, I think the space that remains open, grows wider when I am not looking. 😬 I will say, that by doing one side, then switching to the other, allows me to double check the size of each open bulwarks. Even with adding stealers and reducing at the bow, I remain even, both starboard and port. Will post a picture or two when this complete.
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I am using a pln vise with the smallest bit I have 1/32”. This is even smaller than a t-pin so going smaller is a challenge. Not to count how small the fill, or wood nails would be. I am wondering if once I get everything else on her, they will no longer be a focal point and fade into the background. It’s a lot of drilling if they don’t. 😬
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The point I am getting to is similar. The instructions indicate a 0.55 drill for the holes, and I even dropped down 1 size. Looking at the scale, it appears like one tree nail would occupy over 1/4 of a single plank. That seems too big for me. I am considering just doing the decking only, but have time to change my mind. BTW: Number 1 has been my choice as well.
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