Redshadowrider
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Progress Made + A Question: Question: In the paper plans that came with the kit, the placement of the plates is indicated. I have taken the 2 halves and taped them together for a good starboard view. I see some stealers in the rows, and am wondering if that is just a depiction of row on the hull as it flattens, or are they needed? I had no problem on the planking, but am not sure how to cut/install for the copper. I will be checking threads, but am wondering if they are critical and do I just eyeball them? OOPS....I guess that is really 2 questions.🙃 And...pics of my progress:
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Copper Test and Confetti Fest: I completed the stamping of approximately 40-50 plates for the port side. At that point, I decided to test the installation of them on the hull. This is a nerve wracking step, to say the least. My hands shake already, and placing the plates correctly is a challenge. Before, I continue, I thought I would get some input from other builders. If I need to do them over, I will, but I am somewhat satisfied with the first ones. I have also found that as I add them, I get better at handling them. Here is a first picture of my effort. In the picture, you can see my progress, and the tools. First on the tool line is scissors (duh 😄), that is followed by the small hex driver that I am using to burnish them onto the wood, a pile of used plates (this does not, in any way, mean that they are still usable on the ship 😂) The tweezers are for installation, X-acto knife for removing the backing, confetti, the holding pad, and the spare plates. The holding pad is a double sided sticky pad that we use in the RC planes to hold down receivers to keep vibrations to a minimum. I put each plate copper side down and hanging slightly over the edge, (one is showing), then I use the X-acto knife to carefully remove the backing, and then pick the plate up with the tweezers. The pad is just sticky enough to hold the plate still while removing the backing and, by hanging over the edge, I have a place to grab the plate when ready. If anyone has a suggestion on a different way, or even if you think I should redo the plates already on the ship, I can handle it. 😄 I can say that I won't be able to spend long hours adding the plates, my back is killing me..LOL
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A'stamping I will go. Not sure how many plates I will need for each side, but I will make plenty. It's been awhile because I ran into a little problem on the stamp for the Port side. Basically, it broke on the side when I was adding the t-pins and as it goes, I didn't have any scrap wood of the same size. Sooo, off to Lowes (my second home) for some hard wood. I settled with red oak...well truthfully that is what they had. Anyway, got the Starboard stamp completed and went back to stamping....until the Port one broke. I hadn't used hardwood on it, but it was the striker part that snapped. Who knew that putting it on cross grain would make it weaker? Well, everyone, including me. I put it back together, and to both starboard and port stampers, I added a metal striker plate to each. (Shown in the pics) Now back to stamping each plate.
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Thanks @Overworked724, I should have guessed you did it earlier. Although yours is more complex, we started about the same. I am using T-pins since they work out to be the perfect size, and are made out of stainless steel. I hope I don’t regret not putting an aluminum plate behind them. 🤞 I will add to my thread with pics. I finished the Starboard stamp, and tested using a tack hammer. The first one came out pretty good.
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Your ship is looking fantastic. I was hoping you had reached the copper plating part so I could see what ingenious tool you put together for stamping. Alas, I am going to have to go it alone. 😁😁 I am going to test stamping by placing a flat headed bolt in my drill press and using pressure to make the nail head impressions. I am hoping this will put less stress on the stamper in the instruction book. Keep up the great work.
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Plate Stamping Tool: It has come time to put together a copper plate stamping tool. I have read several threads on here that show how different builders have approached it and I have started mine. Basically, I hunted my junk stuff (which I have tons 🙂) And have started the construction. I am pretty close to being finished, but didn't have enough T-pins for the stampers. I am creating (as indicated in the instructions) a Port and Starboard stamper and it is shown in one of the pics below. I am planning to use T-pins for each stamper as they are just the right size. And they are stiff enough to not bend since they are made out of stainless steel. I have used them for years in building planes and thought I had plenty... oops. Well I will have them tomorrow. I will continue with a couple of additional pics when it is ready. Here is what I have so far.
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In Need of a Shave: The first round of tree nails are drying on the deck and awaiting trimming and sanding. I say first round, because, I am not totally convinced I need additional ones. The center of the deck where most of the furniture is, will need them at plank ends, for sure. However, since I made the planks 20 scale feet in length, they are shorter that the 4 bulkhead size. Because of that, in looking at the deck, I think that at the butt end of each plank is enough to keep it from becoming to busy. The center will have quite a few and will fill the bill. Adding additional tree nails to some of the long boards seems to be to be overkill. If I had used the 4 bulkhead sizes, I would probably feel differently. And now the pics:
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Chapter 8 - Plating: Well almost..... I have to make the stamping tool, and start punching out the plates, but first.... There are 2 items left to do before I move onto the plating. First, I need to add the cap rail. I have the wood for it, but I need to transfer the shape to it by tracing the hull shape. AND... Second, I need to tree nail the deck, sand and refinish. I will start on the tree nailing first so that I don't have to work around the cap rail. It is much easier, and allows a little larger space to work in. It's not a huge deal, but whether I add it now or after, I also gain not hitting it ... you know I will. 😀 So, I started adding the deck furniture, so I can save on the number of tree nails I need. Any drilling, gluing, sanding, and refinishing that I can avoid is welcome. Particularly, since I just did all that with the deck. So I have started cutting out each piece, and then will know where the nails need to be. I have the original for measurements, and copied the deck plans that I get the parts from. And lastly, I foresee not using the building board with the clamps after the copper plating is in place. So I built a set of hull stands to save any marring of the plates. Here are pics:
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Oops.... I did go through several. 🤫 My apologies to @NovaStorm who posted the idea on a thread of @WalrusGuy .......my bad.
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Thanks, I knew I had seen something before, so I did some looking. And, I found your post, and glued two 1/8” planks lengthwise in a L shape. The waterways are sanded and drying with their first coat of Tung oil. I also have them in my bending jig adding the bow curve. They are so thin, even bending them dry is easy. Next step is to put one final coat of mixed flat red and brown on the bulwarks and transom. The scuppers still need painting after adding them with a needle file. I will add a couple of pics when done.....and then it’s the copper plating. 😃
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Thanks, @Overworked724. I have to say that I am very pleased at how it turned out. That first cut into the margin plank was nerve wracking, but after that, it got easier. Then as the details jumped out as I brushed on the Tung oil, I couldn’t believe the difference. Today, I completed filing out the scuppers, and am trying to figure out how to do the waterways. Although, I am still not sure how to file/sand a piece of square stock only 1/16” thick at a 45 degrees. Next, I need to start assembling the press for each copper plate. Until then, I just sit here and look at how it came out. 😁
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Knib One, Purl Two..........😀 Just finished the deck, sanding done, and first coat of Tung oil on. If you don't look close, you can't tell I didn't get staggering the butts 4 planks apart. For some reason, I just had a problem with it. I am pretty sure it was at the start and it was based on a difference in plank lengths. One of the books I read had planks on a ship this size at 20'... or 3.75 inches. So I cut quite a few planks ahead of time. (My Bad) The instructions say to use a 4 bulkhead stretch, which would be much longer than than 20'. I couldn't make a 4 board pattern work with such short planking. So I put down whatever worked. And I don't think it came out half bad. Anyway, no one else will know.. 😎 I test fit the waterway before I added the Tung oil, and it is right at the 1/16" the instructions call for. After the surface dries, I will do the deck lay out, so I can add the tree nails where needed. And I will note one item. I noticed that the tree nails on the bulwarks did not have a clean look. I am attributing that to the wood I used is pretty soft. Once they were in, I think the tree nails deformed slightly during sanding and finishing. I think I have some harder wood of about the same color and am planning to use it for the decking. On another note. I am glad that I held off on the cap rail until now. With it not being installed, I have just a little more room to work on the deck and waterways. Here are a couple of pics:
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Yes, I am adding pencil to the planking. I think it will be more visible when finish sanded, and the Tung oil brushed on. I was pretty lucky in the margin planks. I only needed a little sanding, and their flex was enough to clamp in place for gluing. I do have a space heater for the garage, but when the temperature is below freezing or below zero, as it was last week, it’s just too small. And, we don’t get that cold here very often. Thanks for the nice comments. I have learned a lot about ship building and many of the working skills have transferred from my primary hobby.
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Snow, Ice, and Covid: Well, no, I haven't been slacking off, but weather and such has conspired to slow me down. However, I have completed the margin planks and the first set of planks for the deck. All the ones that are covered by the deck furniture are in place and now, it is nibbing I will go. I have copied the deck layout and will cut out each deck grate, etc, so I can lay out the location of the tree nails. And, I will start my first nibbing exercise. The garage (my dry dock) has been too cold to work in, so I brought what I could indoors. Here are the pics of my progress.
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Ready to Plank: Not much else to say at this time. Other than 1 vaccine shot down, one more to go.. next week. 😀
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Warmer Weather & Progress: Although I say warmer, it is pretty relative. For here, when you get to the temperature that you can glue and paint, you have to move forward. Just finished the inboard bulwarks, with one coat of paint, and minor filling on the transom cap. Still needs another coat in order to balance out the coverage, and a little flat black on the cap edge front. Then I will do as others have done, start the deck planking before the cap rails are installed. Just seems to give a little more room and shouldn't make a difference. (Unless I missed something.) Question on the Cap Rail: Although it is a little out of focus, the outside planking at the bow extends higher than the deck side with the bulwarks sticking out above. If I sand it level, it will cut into the sheer strake and I can't tell from the pictures in the instruction booklet. I have counted the planks above the port sill and I have 6, but in pictures of the bow planking there are 7. Leads me to believe that the plank does not extend the entire length of the hull. (Never mind this question. I reviewed several build blogs and found out how @Overworked724 handled the same issue. I am moving ahead.) 😊 Any input on the sanding of the cap rail bulwarks is welcomed. (Here are some pics.)
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LOL..... Before I got the discs, and the scrapers, I decided to try my hand at doing them myself. I used an awl for the grooves, and a few rippler files to smooth it, then I dipped into Tung oil and hung them up to dry. Thanks for the compliment. I do have the scrapers and the cutting discs now. It should be easier now. 🙂
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Between changing the carronades, the sculpty, and not joggling the planking, you sure keep me thinking. 😊. I may not go the same direction, but it does keeps me considering other ways to build. On the 3D products, like the carronades, I have had some experience with them too. I tried a 3D printed headset for one of my scale pilots in one of my planes. It was so brittle that it broke into pieces just in assembly after painting. You ship is looking great and I am wishing mine could be as clean looking. Although, I am leaving some minor clean up until later. Next step for me is the thinning of the bulwarks and onto the decking.
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Yep, Still Here: I can say without a doubt that the toughest part of this build so far is the stern and transom. Numerous small separate pieces that need cutting and shaping so they fit together. Add to that the cap rail, it is a phase that needs a lot of attention, then add the painting and it becomes a challenge. Not one that cannot be overcome, but one that can be frustrating at times. Add to this, cold weather stops and starts, keeps one from getting into the flow of the build. However, I am 99.5% ready move to the next chapter with only a small amount of clean up and detail painting left. Onto Chapter 7
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Thanks Patrick. I have seen these, but was looking at your picture and the disc appears to be silver. I thought the terra-cotta colored discs would fit the Bill, but wanted to make sure. 👍
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Question @Overworked724 I have been trying to find a source for the .009 cutting discs shown in your log. So far it seems that I can only get them from Dedeco. I tried Amazon and they require a business account and a healthcare license. Can you tell me where you got yours?
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👍 Soaked, Cooked, Bent, & Clamped: Got it done!. I soaked the strip in cold water overnight. Cooked the strip in boiling water for 5 minutes, and let set for 10. Bent it slowly around the form, and clamped it in place. I think I got it now... yay. Now according to the Admiral, I have a pot to clean in the kitchen. 😃 According to her, she doesn't like the taste of wood. hehe
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I have 2 RC plane building tools that I will use with the boiling water. A Covering iron, and a heat gun, which are used in attaching the shiny colored film on the frames. The covering iron does pretty much what you would think. We tack down the covering on the frame using the iron. Then using the heat gun, you shrink the covering until it tightens against the frame. It takes practice, but gives a professional look to the plane. Using these 2 tools should give me the control I need. This is a wing that I recovered recently.
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I plan one try with the strip in boiling water. I can then determine if the wood is easier to shape. The critical part for me is what happens when the strip goes over each top to side transition. The wood tends to crimp and leave a shape like a hose over a sharp edge. If the form allows for a smooth curve transition then I think I can be successful. I have done some final sanding on the transom and sides as well. To make the form, I traced the shape onto a narrow board from the lite ply form the part was cut from, then sanding it to the outside edge of the mark. It is almost exact.
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Thanks Walrus, I have been reading several blogs, and tutorials. It seems that the internal wood temperature needs to reach around 200 degrees. Hot water doesn’t get it to that temp, boiling or steaming is recommended.
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