Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Olympic Peninsula, WA, U.S.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Per, The part is so poor that it was a waste. All the blogs I read make their own. The newer parts are even worse. I bought an older kit off Ebay. It had a windlass counter shaft that was brass rod. The sprocket was badly formed. I requested a replacement part and the shaft was molded instead of brass. It's really too bad. It's a well designed kit and the original parts were decent quality. They made a bad choice in cheapening the parts. John
  2. After much debate I decided to go with a natural deck. The plans indicate the Bluenose deck was different finishes at different times. One of the selections was natural varnish. Though my reading indicates decks were never painted or varnished. On the other hand, the pictures available have decks that are clearly painted. I used a 50/50 shellac and alcohol mixture to seal the wood. Then lightly sanded with 400 grit to remove fuzzies. Interestingly, this made the decking pop. Unfortunately my ugly nibs are now visible. Not so much as the simulated caulking though. After sanding some
  3. The stern hawse pipe is installed. The supplied metal piece was so bad I decided to make my own. The inside flange was made from shim stock and the outside pipe was made from 3/32 brass tubing. Both were blackened.
  4. I'm using Brass Black to blacken my brass parts. Works great! I have one problem with it. The blackening comes off easily. This is especially a problem for flat shim stock. The blackening comes of in flakes when rubbed. Is there some trick to making it bond to the metal? John
  5. Hi Per, I finally tracked down that build log with the glass recommendation. The guy who's a weathering guru. Here's a link to the page about glass. It's worth browsing the whole log. Lot's of tips and fantastic work. Be sure to check out the finished pictures. John
  6. Hi Bob, Thanks for your comment. I wish the nibbing had come out better. It adds an interesting detail to the model. Perhaps my skills will increase going forward and I'll have nibs worth showing. I figure bad nibbing is worse than no nibbing. On the other hand, if I don't practice I'll never be able to do nice nibbing. Modeling is a journey. The last nibs were better than the first nibs. It didn't turn out awful, but it was irregular enough to spoil the overall look of the model. By not penciling the nibs I ended up with the suggestion of nibbing which is a compromise. John
  7. I'm looking for suggestions on deck finish. I've seen both pros and cons for using polyurethane. A number of people have used min-wax. I'd like to airbrush the finish as it is thin, uniform and leaves no out of scale brush marks. John
  8. The deck is now sanded, minor repairs done and ready to apply a finish. The repairs were mostly cleaning and filling noticeable spaces between boards. There were only a few of those. There was one particularly damaged plank in a highly visible spot just in front of the great beam. The solution was to carefully gouge the plank to form a depression and glue a thick veneer onto it. Here's the repair: Used mini-plane to thin a plank to about 1/64" and gouged a grove to remove the bad spot. Forgot to take a picture before applying glue. Note the grove depth is tapered
  9. Interesting. I bought some of that Scotch double sticky tape and it was about useless. Only good for holding paper. I try to stick something down and it just pops off. Maybe I got a bad or outdated roll. I eventually found some tape at a hardware store that worked well. It was sold for mounting things but was thin. I also bought some fabric tape to try. It says it's for "permanent" mounting and I worry about it being too strong. John
  10. You could maybe resell to others in need of windows and recoup your cost. Set aside 10 or so for your own use and sell the rest for $1 each. John
  11. Black is a more common color for steel. The black pins aren't true to the prototype but they definitely look nice. The brass looks good on a ship designed to look pretty. Especially with natural wood finishes. Not a true model though. Brass would require some sort of coating or it will tarnish over time. John
  12. The fore deck is now installed. Because of the bulkhead problem the nibbing strakes could not be patterned from the plans. The difference in bulkhead width means the elimination of 1 1/2 planks. I achieved this by eliminating a plank on one side and using a hull plank on the other. The hull plank is the same thickness but slightly wider. I put this plank near the waterway so that it's not noticeable. Because I could not lift the nibbing from the plan, I had to do it plank-by-plank. The extra thick planks under the bowsprit were not a problem. Though they will be when I sand. At six
  13. Hi Per, I dug into this a bit more. I found other logs where there was the same problem. Always Model Shipways kits. I also looked at your log and in the overview shots It appears to have the same slightly wider I & J bulkheads; though it's hard to tell from photos. I believe this is a mistake in the kit. They got the cutouts in the wrong order. If you simply swap the bulkheads the deck planking comes out exactly like the plans. John
  14. Hi Per, While perusing you log I noticed you are using double-sided tape. I see that in other logs too. I've looked all over for a good double-sided tape but they are either too thin and designed for paper or too thick and designed for mounting parts permanently. What tape do you use? John
  • Create New...