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    Olympic Peninsula, WA, U.S.

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  1. Hi Per, That's very interesting. My experience was just the opposite. It took a little over two weeks to get the parts from Cornwall and Model expo has always been about a week. Perhaps it's something to do with the pandemic. Even more problematic is I ordered some parts from Cast Your Anchor in Toronto which took three weeks. I tracked it and most of that time was in customs. That may be why my Cornwall order took so long. I must have been looking at the wrong page. All the prices were in British Pounds when I ordered. Perhaps there's a different way to connect to the site th
  2. Whoa, I didn't mean to start a flame war! Just recognizing excellence when I encounter it. There is a very nice hobby shop here in Port Angeles, Pacific Rim Hobby. I do shop there whenever possible. I like to support local business. A local shop can never hope to keep everything available in the store and they must have a high enough profit margin to pay their bills and employees. They can never hope to stock more than basics and popular items. And yes, their prices are a little higher than online. But not excessively so. That means online stores fill an important need
  3. I must say that Cornwall Model Boats is amazing. I have not found another place with such wide and complete offerings. They must have every model boat and part made. The prices are comparable to other hobby shop suppliers. Searching their site takes a little work. Like most of these stores, the search engine is not very good. I'm spoiled by Google. The big downside is they ship from Cornwall, England. The site sells in British Pounds. That means extra shipping cost and a currency conversion fee. It will probably take a couple weeks to get the parts too. On the other hand if there is something
  4. Thinking ahead, I decided to order some rigging parts. I need turnbuckles in two sizes. 6mm and 8mm closed size by the plans. The open sizes are 12mm and 18mm. I was able to find turnbuckles(bottle screws actually) of 8mm and 12mm. These should do nicely as they fit in the size range needed. Turnbuckles are adjustable after all. I need shackles of 3mm and heart deadeyes. It would be tedious to make so many tiny shackles and I don't like the method of making the heart deadeyes in the kit plans. I need heart deadeyes of 3.2mm and 2.4mm by the plans. It seems most places s
  5. Thanks. I figure with my track record carving the likelihood was I would just screw up the next one anyway. It's a lot of work to get the asymmetrical shape and the jib stops which would have needed redoing as well.
  6. Today worked on the Samson Post platform and Bowsprit Bits. Also fabricated and installed the jumbo jib boom traveler block and gammon iron.
  7. When I put the bowsprit into the model I discovered the alignment of front and the square part at the rear was not correct. Note the rotation of the square part when the front is rotated correctly. To fix this I decided to slice the dowel under the fore part of the rail where it won't show. I then drilled a hole in the center of each part and inserted a pin to hold it together. I used epoxy to glue the two halves back together, carefully rotating the two pieces into alignment. This actually was helpful. I was able to paint each half before
  8. A LOT more of it as I look through the rigging details. What makes it tough is my hands are a lot shakier than they used to be. I need to find a better way to hold the parts while soldering. It's also getting hard to see those darn things. John
  9. Back to metalwork. I procured butane fuel for my mini torch and silver solder paste. These lugs are so small they're hard to hold. I experimented with various clamps and cleaned the parts. Everything was arranged on a suitable fire-proof surface. There was a lot of fussing getting everything arranged just right and a tiny bit of solder paste on the lugs. The actual soldering was the easy part. It took just a few seconds heating with the torch then the solder melted and flowed nicely. Surface tension pulled the lugs against the ring. It would be easy to use too muc
  10. While reviewing the plans, I realized I had not installed the dory buffer blocks along the outside waist. The board the waist was made from turned out to be the correct thickness and width for these blocs. There was a discrepancy noted between the plans and the photos of the prototype. The actual ship had five of these blocks but the plans show six. I opted to go with the actual implementation. Rather than reapply the masking, I opted to carefully hand paint the blocks.
  11. Rails are ready for paint. The deck was masked. The hull was masked from the top of the yellow line down. A coat of grey primer was airbrushed inside and outside of the rails and waist. Initially I had inserted wires in all the pre-drilled holes to insure they would not be filled when the paint was sprayed on. It turned out the wires were unnecessary as the airbrush coats were thin and uniform enough there was not excess paint to fill the holes. It's a wonderful tool! After the primer dried thoroughly the wires were removed and the surface was prepped for the final coat. A li
  12. Finishing up the Monkey Rail and Buffalo Rail. The forward end of the top of the monkey rail has a small radius bend with a short leg to the main rail. I experimented with various techniques using heat and steam to get the correct bend. This turned out to be very difficult. In the end, I softened the wood and cut kerfs into the underside to get the required curve. I also left the short leg long and trimmed it after the bend had set in the wood. The supplied stern piece of the top rail was very close. The curve was correct. I simply split it in the middle. Scarf joints were used to j
  13. Back to metal work now. It's time to finish those rings with lugs for the bowsprit. The rings were made earlier. I needed a lug the same width as the rings. Very tiny. Too small to make them individually. Also there was no brass stock the correct width. My solution was to take a larger piece of stock the correct thickness and mill it to the correct width. So; back to the drill press and x/y table. The first step is to clamp the stock onto the x/y table in rough alignment with the axis of the table. Precision is not needed at this point as I will make a first cut to create a referen
  14. Now the Monkey rail. The laser cut middle stern piece was very fragile and had neither the correct width nor curve. It got tossed. Instead I used a plank of the correct size and steam bent it around a soldering iron to get the curve. This was done in two pieces to simplify the fitting. Pins were inserted in the main rail to hold the monkey rail in the correct location during gluing. A particular problem was keeping the chainplate slots free of glue. Some shims were cut and inserted in the slots. This also helped with alignment of the monkey rail which must be flush with the c
  15. The next step is gluing the rails on. To keep the rail precisely in position while the glue sets. I used pins. The initial alignment was made and pins inserted. The rail was then removed with the pins in place. PVA was applied to the stanchion tops and and the top of the waist. The rail was carefully placed back on with the pins in the same holes. After the glue set and the pins were removed the pin holes were filled with PVA. Each splice joint was individually sanded to fit and backfilled with PVA. Then sanded smooth after the glue set. Here's a photo with the pins and eyes in pla
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