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JohnU

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    Olympic Peninsula, WA, U.S.

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  1. Hi Bob, I've been using some it it for shims as well. I like the idea of doing the roofs with it. They should look very nice when finished.
  2. Hi Ryland, Thanks for the nice welcome. The techniques come by way of the very helpful forums on this and other web sites. Also by reading the great build logs. Unfortunately, it's not all technique. There is a great deal of skill involved. As you say, that's gained by doing. Some things you can study all the techniques and buy every tool but get a crappy job until investing time in practice. Like drywall or soldering copper pipe fittings. My step-son is learning this for the first time as he paints his apartment. I see you are a moderator. Perhaps you can give me some pointers in
  3. Hi GuntherMT, Thanks for the help. I was trying to do this with a mini miter box that had appropriate size slots. I couldn't get a consistent size out of it. Perhaps the miter box slot was just not snug enough against the saw. I couldn't even get truly square ends. I'll give your suggestion a try. It's a painted model so I can use filler. Sadly the rough planking means lots of sanding. Interestingly, Model Shipways supplies walnut in a thickness for doing a double plank job; even though they don't say that in the ads. John
  4. I debated about adding the scuppers. They were so small I thought the detail might not be visible on the finished model. After looking at other build logs I decided they were worthwhile. It's a nice detail if done properly. By having them painted the same color as the waterway they stand out nicely against the black. I'm still undecided about the cove just below the waist. On the prototype it's quite noticeable and the color is yellow. Some people just paint a yellow stripe and others create the actual cove. The problem is how to make such a small detail in a uniform way. Need to make a tool
  5. Hi Bob, Thanks for the info. You must have a very steady hand to do that scrollwork! I was thinking I might try decals for the scrollwork. I could scan the drawing and print it on the decal paper. The prototype does appear to have depth though. I read one log that used a 3-D printer to make it. I looked through your log. Wish I had done that before I did the scuppers. That was a great way to do the layout. John
  6. And now; Drum Roll; My first attempt at planking. The make-or-break of a POB build. Now that I have the hull planked, I'm pretty pleased that it came out as well as it did. After all, this is a first attempt. There will be much sanding and some mistakes were made. It's a painted model so the mistakes will be hidden. Two observations: The prototype was not a perfectly smooth hull. In pictures of the original you can see the planks. The planks were wider than the Model Shipways plans indicate. Plan Problems: The way the planks lay on the counter and transistion to
  7. The waterways are important to get right as they set the upper run of planking. The manual and plans have really good detail and examples of the waterways and an enlarged diagram of their installation. This went well except at the great beam where the bulkhead was slanted a tiny bit fore-aft. Some experimentation indicated this was not going to be noticeable once the planking and waist were installed. Oddly there was an extra piece for the great beam in the cutouts. At this time the knightheads were installed. At this point I discovered an inaccuracy
  8. Next the stern blocks. An area of difficulty for me as my carving skills are abysmal. The plans do not give a good account of the stern. There are several exemplar drawings which are only orthogonal. Some dimensions and a guide for the angle of the counter would be helpful. As it is, it's pretty much up to the old eyeball. A tiny piece of angled keel is all there is to go by for the angle. The plans show small inserts in the stern blocks for the counter timbers, but they are not sufficient to hold these pieces and the angle is not shown. This turned out be be an iterative process.
  9. The counter area is not well explained. Neither the plan nor the manual had a good explanation or diagram. However, between the two I was able to figure it out correctly. After the bulkheads are installed notches are cut for the "horn" timbers. These are set into and flush against the last two bulkheads from the bottom. This leaves the keel out the depth of the hull planks which butt against the keel in this area and glue to the horn timbers.
  10. The wood the bulkheads were in was slightly curved. I found that steaming with a household iron worked pretty well for flattening. I don't think my wife realized what I was doing with her iron. The iron was set on the high cotton setting. Iron the bulkhead until hot and let them dry on a flat surface with a weight on top. Next the bulkheads were faired. The bulkheads and their tapers are shown on the plans individually. I found the tapers to be accurate. Again the taper lines need to be transferred to each bulkhead and the bulkheads carved before assembly. Be sure you taper the co
  11. Of the two methods of creating the mast sockets I chose to use two half blocks around the preformed slots. As pointed out in the plans this method allows the mast to be removed later if needed. It also allows for shims to be glued in the hole to adjust the mast alignment. A block the depth of the mast slot and three times the width of the false keel was cut. The block has a hole drilled that provides a snug fit for the mast. Then a section is cut from the block the thickness of the false keel. The two halves are glued over the mast slot using the mast dowel to keep everything aligned.
  12. The next problem was bearding. The plans have good details of the bearding. The problem was to transfer the lines from the plans to the wood. I chose to do this using the wax paper as it was fairly rigid, translucent and comes in long rolls. Tracing paper also works but is often flimsy. Trace the bearding lines and alignment lines from the plans, then use contact cement to attach the wax paper to the wood. From here, you can cut the bearding lines through the paper. I chose to mark the lines with a scalpel and remove the wax paper. This provided a nice clean line and no paper to get in the way
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