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Everything posted by JohnU

  1. While reviewing the plans, I realized I had not installed the dory buffer blocks along the outside waist. The board the waist was made from turned out to be the correct thickness and width for these blocs. There was a discrepancy noted between the plans and the photos of the prototype. The actual ship had five of these blocks but the plans show six. I opted to go with the actual implementation. Rather than reapply the masking, I opted to carefully hand paint the blocks.
  2. Rails are ready for paint. The deck was masked. The hull was masked from the top of the yellow line down. A coat of grey primer was airbrushed inside and outside of the rails and waist. Initially I had inserted wires in all the pre-drilled holes to insure they would not be filled when the paint was sprayed on. It turned out the wires were unnecessary as the airbrush coats were thin and uniform enough there was not excess paint to fill the holes. It's a wonderful tool! After the primer dried thoroughly the wires were removed and the surface was prepped for the final coat. A li
  3. Finishing up the Monkey Rail and Buffalo Rail. The forward end of the top of the monkey rail has a small radius bend with a short leg to the main rail. I experimented with various techniques using heat and steam to get the correct bend. This turned out to be very difficult. In the end, I softened the wood and cut kerfs into the underside to get the required curve. I also left the short leg long and trimmed it after the bend had set in the wood. The supplied stern piece of the top rail was very close. The curve was correct. I simply split it in the middle. Scarf joints were used to j
  4. Back to metal work now. It's time to finish those rings with lugs for the bowsprit. The rings were made earlier. I needed a lug the same width as the rings. Very tiny. Too small to make them individually. Also there was no brass stock the correct width. My solution was to take a larger piece of stock the correct thickness and mill it to the correct width. So; back to the drill press and x/y table. The first step is to clamp the stock onto the x/y table in rough alignment with the axis of the table. Precision is not needed at this point as I will make a first cut to create a referen
  5. Now the Monkey rail. The laser cut middle stern piece was very fragile and had neither the correct width nor curve. It got tossed. Instead I used a plank of the correct size and steam bent it around a soldering iron to get the curve. This was done in two pieces to simplify the fitting. Pins were inserted in the main rail to hold the monkey rail in the correct location during gluing. A particular problem was keeping the chainplate slots free of glue. Some shims were cut and inserted in the slots. This also helped with alignment of the monkey rail which must be flush with the c
  6. The next step is gluing the rails on. To keep the rail precisely in position while the glue sets. I used pins. The initial alignment was made and pins inserted. The rail was then removed with the pins in place. PVA was applied to the stanchion tops and and the top of the waist. The rail was carefully placed back on with the pins in the same holes. After the glue set and the pins were removed the pin holes were filled with PVA. Each splice joint was individually sanded to fit and backfilled with PVA. Then sanded smooth after the glue set. Here's a photo with the pins and eyes in pla
  7. The finished rail was shown in the previous post. There is a step worth mentioning specifically. Getting the chainplate slots right is a problem. The chainplates are spec'd at .008 inch. Drilling holes that small isn't particularly hard - but slots are a problem. For a good fit with a couple mills clearance is needed. It's difficult using files or a punch. The slots are only .010 inch wide and 2/32 inch long. I used a drill press with an x/y table attached and a .010 drill. After carefully marking the slots the rail was clamp to the x/y table and a series of overlapping holes were
  8. Worked on the main rail for a few days. I had not looked forward to this due to my carving skills. It turned out easier than I thought it would be and looks nice when in place. It was tricky getting the overlap of the waist even all round. I ended up using six pieces. One from the bow laser cut piece to approximately the great beam. One from there to just past the belaying pin row and a third from there to the laser cut piece at the stern. Times 2 for port and starboard. I found the splice shape used in the end pieces worked well and used that for all joints. I starte
  9. It turned out the width was only slightly off and I could use filler to close the gap rather than splicing in extra wood; You can see the slight gap on each side. The "Fancy" pieces were sanded to the curve seen in the pictures of Bluenose. Below is a picture with the belaying pins and eyes inserted. When painted I think it will look pretty good. Needs some touch up too. I discovered, quite by accident, that if I burnished the black enough the pins became a nice dark brown as real belaying pins might look. I think I will do this will all of them.
  10. Started the main rail. I've been putting this off as it's a lot of fussing with small pieces with cutting and shaping. As many have found the laser cut piece is too small to fit the stern properly. I decided on the "cut and paste" method where the stern main rail is cut into three pieces and filler strips are put in to cover the gaps. There was still a lot of fussing to get the pieces aligned correctly. In the end I drilled a couple extra holes and inserted pins to hold the side pieces in place for the alignment. These need to be filled later, but some filling is needed for the spl
  11. Hi Bert, Why would I mind? 😀 The more the merrier. Always glad to help out another modeler. That's why we post all this stuff. I've certainly borrowed ideas and techniques from others on this site. It's about sharing... John
  12. Check out "Little Machine Shop". Good selection of parts and accessories for mini machine tools. http://littlemachineship.com I found exactly what I was looking for and received prompt service. John
  13. Thanks John. I'll be trying several things next time I blacken some brass. John
  14. The brass is uncoated and I use Vinegar for cleaning. What's in the pickling solution?
  15. Started the Bowsprit. The shape is compound but not too difficult. The biggest problem is to keep the bottom straight while tapering to the front. Bob has a good technique for doing this on page 2 of his build log: I don't know how to force a text link into this log. It pastes as a quote with a seemingly random picture. Clicking on it goes to the correct page though. Any of you moderators know how to do this? The shoulders were roughed out by chucking into a drill and using a file and sandpaper. Here's the carved and sanded bowsprit: The jib stops wer
  16. Added the tie down rings. Pretty straightforward. Put ring on eyebolt, drill hole, glue in place with CA for good metal bond. Just two gotchas. Be careful not to drill all the way through the stanchions and using CA is tricky. Be careful not to glue the ring to the eye!
  17. Hi John, That's interesting. I have not seem nonuniform formation. But the black is not stuck well. I've been chemically cleaning the brass before treatment. In the case of larger pieces I've been mechanically cleaning as well. After removing from the solution I rinse well in water for a minute or so. That said, I do have the Flaking problem. I've left the brass in the solution for minutes rather than seconds. I'll try removing it sooner and see if that helps. John
  18. The deck is Finished! I airbrushed some matte topcoat on. Love that airbrush. The hobby shop guy talked me into trying a new product. Testors Aztek clear matte. I don't have anything to compare with but it did a great job. It went on a bit dry but I think that was due to my airbrushing. I used a soft pad to buff it out. Looks great! I added the inside plates for the "mooring chocks" and touched up the paint'. Here's a picture showing the plate and a hawse pipe.
  19. I included one of the metal parts on the penny in my picture for comparison if you want to know what it looks like. It's on sheet 3 of the plans. They call it a "Mooring Chock". The plans don't show the actual pipe though. I think "Mooring Chock" refers to the timbers next to the hole. Several bloggers have talked about the metal part. I didn't know what it was until I read some other blogs. You can see it in pictures of the stern area though it's hard to discern. The part is incorrect to start with, as near as I can tell. There is a large metal plate(not shown on the plans) on the
  20. Hi Per, The part is so poor that it was a waste. All the blogs I read make their own. The newer parts are even worse. I bought an older kit off Ebay. It had a windlass counter shaft that was brass rod. The sprocket was badly formed. I requested a replacement part and the shaft was molded instead of brass. It's really too bad. It's a well designed kit and the original parts were decent quality. They made a bad choice in cheapening the parts. John
  21. After much debate I decided to go with a natural deck. The plans indicate the Bluenose deck was different finishes at different times. One of the selections was natural varnish. Though my reading indicates decks were never painted or varnished. On the other hand, the pictures available have decks that are clearly painted. I used a 50/50 shellac and alcohol mixture to seal the wood. Then lightly sanded with 400 grit to remove fuzzies. Interestingly, this made the decking pop. Unfortunately my ugly nibs are now visible. Not so much as the simulated caulking though. After sanding some
  22. The stern hawse pipe is installed. The supplied metal piece was so bad I decided to make my own. The inside flange was made from shim stock and the outside pipe was made from 3/32 brass tubing. Both were blackened.
  23. I'm using Brass Black to blacken my brass parts. Works great! I have one problem with it. The blackening comes off easily. This is especially a problem for flat shim stock. The blackening comes of in flakes when rubbed. Is there some trick to making it bond to the metal? John
  24. Hi Per, I finally tracked down that build log with the glass recommendation. The guy who's a weathering guru. Here's a link to the page about glass. It's worth browsing the whole log. Lot's of tips and fantastic work. Be sure to check out the finished pictures. John
  25. Hi Bob, Thanks for your comment. I wish the nibbing had come out better. It adds an interesting detail to the model. Perhaps my skills will increase going forward and I'll have nibs worth showing. I figure bad nibbing is worse than no nibbing. On the other hand, if I don't practice I'll never be able to do nice nibbing. Modeling is a journey. The last nibs were better than the first nibs. It didn't turn out awful, but it was irregular enough to spoil the overall look of the model. By not penciling the nibs I ended up with the suggestion of nibbing which is a compromise. John
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