granta

Hi Allan

The “centre line rigging” as per  my post refers to the attachment of the lifts, truss pendants that belay directly to the deck beneath the mast. These are all attached to the yards when the yards are attached to the mast (which is a complete unit off the ship).

The mast unit  off the ship consists of the three masts (lower, top and topgallant), tops, all shrouds with the top shrouds plus ratlines attached to the top, all stays, Burtons, backstays, preventer stays, yards with slings, jeers, lifts, halyards. This is up to Mastini’s step 7 on page 62). This makes for an terrible tangle, but blue tape keeps things in a sort or order.

Then… masts are glued in. Then…the “centre line rigging” (sorry for being clumsy with the description) of lifts, halyards. Then…the stays  (Mastini’s step 12). Sorry I was unclear. “Attaching the stays “ refers to the final belaying. 

Grant

Hi Mark

Im currently rigging Caldercrafts HMS Diana as per the Mastini method and highly recommend it. Masts are assembled off the ship with the topmast shrouds and ratlines  firmly fixed to the deadeyes before attaching the yards. All off the ship. The mast and yards are then placed in the deck and all centre line rigging complete before attaching the stays. The lower shrouds follow. This is my second model using this method.

Thanks. Ordered.

Hi Bob

Have you looked at miniaturesteammodels.com? They’re an Australian distributor for Caldercraft models. I’ve bought two ships off them (Diana and Badger). Good price at the time and quick delivery.

Grant

Terrific stuff, Anton. You've actually nailed that Freo sea colour. Wonderful memories of a couple of afternoons spent on the Leeuwin.  A highly recommended outing for my fellow West Australians.

Grant

Well done, Anton, on those decorations and their finish. Sometimes we see these as being too overscale and garish. Something off a birthday cake. But you've nailed it, buddy.

I've noted the paint you've used  as well as the technique for later.

Top stuff.

Grant

The hull isn't cut down on the Badger. I placed a sealed plywood barrier about 2cm under the waterline around the hull, painted it blue/green and poured a  layer of resin over. Some experiments with textured water using something like Mod Podge to follow. There's a lot on the Web and YouTube on water based dioramas. Next time I'll add furled sails.

Your Sovereign would look awesome in a natural setting with those spectacular flags...

Grant

Hi Anton

Here is Caldercraft's HMS Badger in a resin sea. Still unfinished and doesn't really stand up to close scrutiny. Really a trial to see how it looked. I do like marine dioramas that tell a story. I'd love to see a 17th Century  marine diorama.

Grant

Hi Anton. I know I speak on behalf of many modellers when I thank you for these posts on enhancing the Sergal kit of SOS. One of the great things about our hobby lies in the capacity to exceed the manufaturers intended potential of these kits. You have done the research and clearly applied that to the Sergal kit. 

Championship stuff.

Grant

Awesome stuff, Anton. Gee, those 17th Century ships have something uniquely attractive about them.

As an aside, I note that you're planning to build the Batavia later. As a WA local, that would really interest me. Is there a kit available? Or maybe a scratch build?

I like what you've done there, Scott. I'm no expert but I would imagine that the "white stuff" anti fouling mix would be slapped over everything prior to launch. Including the rudder hinges. The hinges above the waterline would remain black. 

Cracking build by the way.

Grant

Gee, that's looking good, Scott. A pleasure to view. Have you made a decision about finishing the lower hull? A lot of Friesland modellers  have painted it white. I really like the natural finish, though.

Thanks, mate. Done. Off to Bunnings......

Hi Anton

Looking pretty cool so far. Wondering about the Ozito sander. Read a couple of reviews suggesting the sanding pads came off too easily. Looks to have done a great job on your hull, though.

Grant

Looking pretty sharp, Scott. Sometimes the quality and finish of the decorations on these sorts of models can look overscale and detract from the model but these look terrific.

Grant

Good luck with the build, Scott. Looking forward to this one. Always liked the look of those 17th Century ships.

Dick

As a West Australian, I am hugely interested in this build-both because of the history of the vessel and the WA hardwoods.  I have found Jarrah to be a beautiful wood but a little splintery for fine, detailed work. No problems for you, though. A terrific start.

Grant