DocBlake

Great job on the Brodie stove, Bill.  Your model is beautiful.  Keep up the good work!
 
Dave

Great job on the Brodie stove, Bill.  Your model is beautiful.  Keep up the good work!
 
Dave

I worked on the Brodie Stove and Charlie Noble today. I made it out of maple and brass. It was a fun project. I know the details of this will not be seen once it is installed in the ship, but I know they will be there. I will install the Charlie Noble once the main deck is in.

I'm working on the planking above the wales.  I have one more plank on each side at the bow before the main rail goes on.  I've enlarged the gun ports to their final size.  You can see the swiss pear framing for the ports that matches the planned inner bulwark planking.   Jonathan or any other kit bashers:  Any tips on how best to make the scraper to form the profile on the main rail?
 
Dave

Finally, the initial parts of the lower level ratlines are complete.

I'm working on the planking above the wales.  I have one more plank on each side at the bow before the main rail goes on.  I've enlarged the gun ports to their final size.  You can see the swiss pear framing for the ports that matches the planned inner bulwark planking.   Jonathan or any other kit bashers:  Any tips on how best to make the scraper to form the profile on the main rail?
 
Dave

Lots of outdoor chores have limited my modeling time.  I have accomplished some, though.  I framed the gun ports in swiss pear to match the planned swiss pear inner bulwark planking.  This involved gluing Hahn frame segments to form the gun port sides, and then installing a pear sill across the bottom.  I'll install the top sill when the planking is done and the top of the gun ports are cut into the planking.  I'm working on fairing the inboard surface of all the framing, and need to remove several of the kit bulkheads as part of the process.  All this is fairly tedious, and progress is slow.  Fairing and/or removing the kit bulkheads (as opposed to the Hahn frames) is really tough because they're made of plywood that seems as hard as steel!  I'll get it done, though.
 
Dave

I'm really loving this build!  It's an inspiration.  Very nice job.  I'd love to build her, but I'm going to have to teach myself CAD.  BTW, thanks again for the plans, Bill!

I have started work on the cabins by building the magazine since it is central to the ship. This is a very busy room and normally a very secure room. However in this ship, there is no room to have a remote magazine. So based upon all the materials I placed it just behind the pump well. 
While the ship was built quickly, care of the powder would have been paramount so I spent some time accessorizing the magazine. I used a blackened brass plate to mimic the lead flooring and cut it out so the area beneath the magazine would be visible.

According to the TFFM a keg of powder would be 19" tall by 15" wide. At scale this would be 10mm x 8mm. I used oak dowel to turn the kegs. Once turned I cut slots in the sides with a scalpel to show the staves and black pin striping to make the hoops. I also used the dowel to make a bucket and passing box to hang on either side of the door. I created a light window that would be accessed from the officers wardroom. I used slide covers to cut glass for the light cupboard glazing. 

I made racks to go along the starboard side to store the cartridge trays. Each of the 10 trays was built as a shallow tray with 5 separators and would hold 18 cartridges each. Since the cartridges were hand sewn on the ship I wanted them to look to be of similar size, but to not be cookie cutters of each other since each cloth cartridge would look slightly different from handling.

I finally figured out a method for cutting thin strips of the same fabric I used for my Connie's hammocks. This was a paper cloth that I stained with tea and coffee to be slightly tan. I would take a thin strip and run a line of thick CA down the length. Then I twisted the strip into a cylinder. I would finish it by using a bit more CA and using it to make the cylinder consistent. Once it was dried, I cut them to length with the scalpels. I placed these three to a slot in each of the trays and once filled, glued the trays into the rack and the filled rack into the magazine.

Once the interior was complete, I added shutters to the outside of the light cupboard and hardware for the door. After this was all complete I glued it into the ship. 
 


I stained the first set of cannonballs. I am using chrome ball bearings for these. I have found by heating these red hot with a torch then soaking them in blackening solution. Once stained I used them to fill the starboard shot locker. I filled most of the locker with a block of wood and some extra ballast (suitably glued with CA to make solid). Then I glued the newly stained cannon balls into the top. The lid of this side will be open but will not be glued in until later in the build otherwise it would be easy to break off.
 


I started working on the cabins with the midshipmen's cabin on the port side. This one took a bit of time since I had to work out the joinery to be used in the cabins. I will build the furniture into the cabins once more of the cabins have their bulkheads are completed. The door to the cabin is just sitting in the frame. I think I will change the ventilation holes. They need to be higher and closer together on the door. Once satisfied I will add the hardware to hold the door.
 

I cut out all the false frames for the gun ports out of swiss pear.  Next they get glued in place.  I attached temporary planking along the top of the bulkheads to help with alignment.  Rather than starting aft and moving forward, I'll begin amidships where the frames have no bevel.  I'm deviating from the practicum by installing the after frame first, then the lower sill, and finally the forward frame for each port.  Rather than cut all the sills to 3/8", I'll cut each one for a custom fit.  My port cutouts may not be EXACTLY 3/8' WIDE 
 
Dave

I cut out all the false frames for the gun ports out of swiss pear.  Next they get glued in place.  I attached temporary planking along the top of the bulkheads to help with alignment.  Rather than starting aft and moving forward, I'll begin amidships where the frames have no bevel.  I'm deviating from the practicum by installing the after frame first, then the lower sill, and finally the forward frame for each port.  Rather than cut all the sills to 3/8", I'll cut each one for a custom fit.  My port cutouts may not be EXACTLY 3/8' WIDE 
 
Dave

Gorgeous is all I can say!
 
Dave

Hi Guys
 
It's update time again.
 
It's been a while since I worked on the Cross Section due mainly to working on the Bawley, that's completed now so it's back to the main build.
 
I was / am playing catch-up to Grant and so have been a bit busy in the shipyard.
 
The Mortar Pit Support Standards are made, fitted and have been given a coat of Poly, at the same time I made the Centre Line Stanchions, these were made from 1/4" x 1/4" Walnut, these were turned on my lathe. I only had to make three but it took me eight attempts to do it ( need more practice ). These have now been given a coat of Poly and have been dry fitted.
 
It's now time to tackle the Upper Deck Beams, I really was not looking forward to doing these as I know for sure they will show up my extremely poor wood working skills.
With Beams cut out and sanded down on the drum and disc sanders the top template was lined up and pressed into place, the notches then had to be cut out, instead of milling the cut-outs I used a sharp blade to cut the outer edge of the notch then used a home made chisel and 3mm chisel to remove the unwanted wood, this for is the best way because I have little faith in my drill stand, I don't think I will get the accuracy that is needed, Beams 1, 2 and 3 have so far been made and are dry fitted.
 
I did receive a phone call on Friday evening from my Granddaughter asking if I can make her a Pirate Ship, it doesn't have to be very big but it needs to float and be robust, and can you have it ready to be taken to school on Monday, don't panic.
This request was met fully and you will see the result, I was told when she came to take it that weights were going to be placed on it to see how much it would take before it either capsized or sank, wish I had know before I started it.
 
I must thank Grant at this stage for pointing out some errors in the plans, these errors have been validated and corrections being made, thanks mate.
 
Pictures
 
The Black Pig, Captain Pugwash's ship

 
Pit Support Standards

 

 
2 of the 3 Stanchions dry fitted

 

 
The 3 Beams are dry fitted and should eventually match up with other Beams

 

 
So that's where I am guys, Beam building continues.
 
Any an all remarks and comments are welcome as usual.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Excellent work so far.  Very nice job, Bill.  Looking forward to more.
 
Dave

Sorry for the misunderstanding.  The photo above showing the gun port measurements is from Bob Hun't practicum.  I'm not quite so far along.  I did locate the gun ports and cut them into the second strake of planking.  I used the cardboard template to locate a couple of the amidships ports, made sure all were the same height above the deck.  I measured the location of the fore and aft ports rather than introducing the error that the 2D template would bring to the 3D model.  All the port bottoms are the same distance above the subdeck - 9/32".  The distance between ports, from the aft edge of a port to the forward edge of the one behind it is 1-1/8", measured along the curve of the hull.
 
Dave

The wales were established by cutting out  a copy of the Hahn plans along the wale sheer line, and marking the location on the hull.  The was the upper border of the wales.  A plank was laid along the line, and a second plank below it.  I then planked two strakes above the wales.  Two additional planks of ebony will be added to the wale planks to give them their thickness. I then took the copy of the wale sheer from Hahn's plans (mounted on cardboard) and cut out the gun ports.  The template was then used to mark the gun port locations on the model.  The ports will be cut out and framed next.
 
Dave

Sorry for the misunderstanding.  The photo above showing the gun port measurements is from Bob Hun't practicum.  I'm not quite so far along.  I did locate the gun ports and cut them into the second strake of planking.  I used the cardboard template to locate a couple of the amidships ports, made sure all were the same height above the deck.  I measured the location of the fore and aft ports rather than introducing the error that the 2D template would bring to the 3D model.  All the port bottoms are the same distance above the subdeck - 9/32".  The distance between ports, from the aft edge of a port to the forward edge of the one behind it is 1-1/8", measured along the curve of the hull.
 
Dave

Excellent work so far.  Very nice job, Bill.  Looking forward to more.
 
Dave

Excellent work so far.  Very nice job, Bill.  Looking forward to more.
 
Dave

Posted: Sun May 24 2015, 02:44PM
Since adding the ceiling planks I have focused on getting the outside of the frames and keel done other than planking the wales up which will be done later. So I worked on finishing the frame fairing on the outside, then doing the inlays of the butterfly plates on the keel. 











I also spent some time doing the final sanding and backing off most of the stain. As a result, the stain remaining left the keel with a nice patina and shows the joinery.

Once that was done I turned the focus back on the interior. As I mentioned earlier I planed on modifying the mast steps to be more in line with the TFFM. This type of step would have been adjustable while providing more strength in the step. This also falls in line with the bolt patterns found in the wreck. So it is entirely possible it was done something like this.







Once the steps were installed I started mounting the berth deck beams. I decided to install more beams than the practicum. This because I will be installing bulkheads and partitioning the deck for the compartments Crisman discusses in the materials. Since the deck would need to be stable for all the crew and supplies this meant more beams. Once these were installed I added the supports necessary to hold the shot locker and pump well. Due to the weight of the shot and the lightness of the deck beams, the shot locker needs support from the keel up. I added two longitudinal beams under the edges of the locker. 

I also wanted to add scuttle hatches for access to the space under the deck. Since there is no room forward, I added two in the stern area that would be just forward of the aft stairs. I made these by notching in angled carlings and notching the beams to provide a coaming around the hatches. Once installed they will be flush with the deck. I counter sunk the eye rings also in line with the TFFM. Once all were in, I applied a light stain from the clamps down to the keelson of Minwax Golden Pecan. This is the same I used on the decking of my Connie. I found it provides a nice tone and pops without overly darkening the wood.












I also picked up some Model Railroad ballast. I want to use this to show how the magnetite ore was placed in the hull for ballast. I will do some experimentation with both the mix of colors and glue before applying to the model. My nerxt focus will be on the Shot locker and pump well.

I put the Rattler on hold as I finished up my "Swift".  Now that she is done, it's back to it.  I installed the first layers of the double-planked wales.  This is basswood and helps define the counter.  It will be covered in ebony.  After the wales were defined, it was obvious I needed to clean up the fairing at the stern, which I did.  I've not installed the transom yet, because I was concerned I'd break it off while planking the wales.  Next up is planking above the wales, and constructing gunports
 
Dave

I used Bob's practicum on my AVS and it was very helpful.  Obviously it's designed for someone who's not had a ton of experience (me)!  The Practicum for the Rattlesnake is manditory for the kitbashed version I'm planning.You can buy all the various Practica as a package for $200.  This will allow you to use them for multiple vessels, including a scratch built "Hannah".  Here's a link:  http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/
 
Here are some shots of the model under construction from the Practicum:
 
 
 
Dave

The wales were established by cutting out  a copy of the Hahn plans along the wale sheer line, and marking the location on the hull.  The was the upper border of the wales.  A plank was laid along the line, and a second plank below it.  I then planked two strakes above the wales.  Two additional planks of ebony will be added to the wale planks to give them their thickness. I then took the copy of the wale sheer from Hahn's plans (mounted on cardboard) and cut out the gun ports.  The template was then used to mark the gun port locations on the model.  The ports will be cut out and framed next.
 
Dave

Thanks, Mark.  You're right that the template is only really useful amidships.  I plan to establish the bottom of the ports in that area and use the measurement from the deck to the port opening bottom to establish the proper location for the fore and aft port bottoms.  Their fore and aft locations are easy to measure from the amidships ports.
 
Dave

All totaled, I broke the transom, either partially or completely, from the hull 3 times.  This is because it is flimsy and fragile with a minimal glue line holding it in place at a bad angle.  It's always in the way!  I decided to plank the counter and the transom first, which I did.  This stiffened the transom and provided more attachment area to the hull.  it is much stronger now.  The outer bulwark planking is done to the second plank row.  Next up is cutting and framing the gun ports.
 
Dave