mir0n

Thank you Chuck

That is all

Test drive

In a cup of tap water

Photo session

Assembling

The piston

Brass 3/32" tube: Boring to 2.0mm

Well, yes! First there was a hole for 0.5mm axle – no photo left

Boring the edge a little for the stock move

Solder the washer, so that the valve ball is not thrown out of the piston.
Reseating the ball bed with 1/16" sphere inside

 The stock

In the strip of 0.6mm brass: drilling 0.5mm holes

Primitive: in a vice with help of file

Done!!!

The rocker arm ( The handle)
 

Brass 0.6mm: cutting out and forming of the rocker’s sly form

Brass 0.3 mm: drilling three 0.5mm holes with 1.4mm step

Bending stock holder, whetting the rocker tip up to 0.5 mm

Soldering

Grinding off excess

Handle assembled!!!

In handle support: boring a required spot for rocker movements

Fitting

The “pipe”:

On copper tube 1/8'' (main pipe): grinding out a little groove for the locking bolt

Cutting off to the size (see the sketch below...)

On other side of the 1/8'' main pipe drilling a 2.8mm bore; that would be a place for a ball of lower valve

Copper tube 3/32 ""(overflow pipe): Grinding down the desired area up to 1.9mm (see sketch below...)

In the 1/8’’ main pipe: drilling a 1.8 mm bore for the overflow pipe

Another piece of 3/32" tube and all 3 parts for pump pipe are ready

Soldering all together using simple conductor

Reseating the soldering of lower and upper pipes with help of 3/32" diamond sphere

The locking bolt:
 

grinding out the extra thread from 00-90 bolt

Cutting off, folding for perfection

The head:

0.3 mm brass piece: bending, drilling, grinding out a support of handle (have no photo, but looks like everything is clear from the sketch)

Soldering the 3/16'' tube (with bore for 00-90 thread) to the head cover.

Inserting the 5/32'' tube into

Fluting and cutting the threads for the locking bolt

First fitting

Soldering the support of a handler

Chopping, grinding out, trying on

To fix the typo, edit your first post - click edit at the bottom of the first post, then click on use full editor.  The title is now available to edit.

 

This is a wicked neat topic - thanks for sharing it with us!

Cool!!! It works!!!

to be continued....

and well... how i can fix a typo on topic header? 

The base:

Soldering 5/32'' tube to the base bed

Materials:

The real implementation forces to change pump proportions for a little: follow up to standard set of copper (and brass) tubes: 3/16'', 5/32'', 1/8'', 3/32'' and 1/16''.

The chosen tube set is giving a great opportunity - the inner diameter of a tube corresponds to the outside diameter of the tube оf next number – the tube move -in and -out into each other as closely as possible.

Designed etched details on brass 0.6mm thick were good for nothing – I had no inexperience, and did not add 20% of the thickness to the edges of small parts, so they were eaten to be useless ... Nevertheless head cover and the base bed are ok. But the remaining parts – handle, support and stock - should be done by hands.

And yes!!!: a metal wire from the package of bread and brass washer with 1.5 mm inner diameter.

Also I have to say: an idea to make the pump “working” came while of assembling: that was happen that I have steel balls with 3/32’’ and 1/16’’ diameters (I bought them to simulate charges for 24’ carronades and 6' guns, respectively)

Oops!! One more thing: a 00-90 bolt

The "working" copper bilge-pump with two valves and removable head in 1:64 scale

Important note:

There is no guarantee for historical conformity

The pump's sketch was designed based on reseach:

«Ships' bilge pumps: a history of their development, 1500-1900» Thomas J. Oertling

Many people asked me to share how i build it.

So i have no excuses do not do it....