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Richard Dunn

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Everything posted by Richard Dunn

  1. Richard Dunn
    Step_11_Fit forward Longitudinals and inner partial frames
  2. Richard Dunn
    Step_10 Assemble Forward longitudinals against straight edge
  3. Richard Dunn
    Step_09_Fitting of Mooring decks and angled bulkhead
  4. Richard Dunn
    Step_08 addition of Stern webs and stern door
  5. Richard Dunn
    Step_07 Assemble main Hull stringers
  6. Richard Dunn
    Step_06_Install main Longitudinals into frames
  7. Richard Dunn
    Step_05 addition of stern half bulkheads, frame doubler to allow change in deck thickness and inside of tonnage openings midships
  8. Richard Dunn
    Step_04 Slide Assemble SmokeRoom Floor,Hatch and Uptake casing.
  9. Richard Dunn
    Step_03_Assembly of Main Longitudinals, check overall length for any compounding error and correct. Assemble with bottom edge against a straight edge.
  10. Richard Dunn
    Step_02_fitting of main frames into tenons in foundation plate.
  11. Richard Dunn
    Just going to post my "instruction manual" pages here in case its of interest while I get into my head the assembly order Step 1 - foundation plates assembled and glued to top of bread and butter lower hull.
  12. Richard Dunn
    Here is a couple of parts to show the accuracy of the joints and how it was prepared in 3d to be transferred to 2d and on to CNC I then cut on the CNC And after sanding the sheet and cleaning up tabs we get parts that fit like this. Notice the corners are "dogboned" to clear the radius from the corners of the holes, the pen work is also done on CNC with a pen attachment so frame lines are perfect
  13. Richard Dunn
    This image shows the Smoke room, one of the passenger areas that needs to be fitted out due to large windows, note the green area which is removable floor to access the spaces under, the join in the floor falls between tables and chairs. The engine casing will support the ceiling which is also part of the removable assembly that lifts out. I have added a photo of the space so you can get a feel for it.
  14. Richard Dunn
    Time for a proper post this screengrab shows the parts cut on CNC and ready to go in the pale grey brown colour, 12 sheets worth of interlocking frames
  15. Richard Dunn
    Yeah had a look but i need these to be 6mm deep ish and .5mm apart looks like a jig is in order and soldering it out of brass shim, ,I will make the part from photo etch and then solder, that way...oh I just had an epiphany, frame bent from one strip and blades have 2 little tabs each end that fit into holes in frame at an angle, then jig to hold it all square and solder. CNC sheets count is now at 12 sheets, another 4 done today
  16. Richard Dunn
    I would be inclined to return your sheer and chine curves into the centreline and form the radius so your side panel goes from stem to transom centreline. If you place your control points in the correct way you will form an arc on the corner that is nearly as good as G3 continuity. G1 means a surface is matched to the edge but does not carry on the shape, like the chine to bottom panel for example, G2 means it is Tangent matched, this means its matched only at the actual joint but is not a true curvature continuous joint and G3 means its a proper curvature match. I would assume you are planning to create the transom separately and fillet the corner which is fine to but it gets messy when you create the stern duckboard, because you then have multiple surfaces you have to join up. when you create a radius within a curve you need 2-3 points at the tangent point but along the straight (they must be in line) part and then one point out at the apex of the arc, imagine that the radius is a 90 degree corner before being filleted, you would place the point at the corner, normally you can control the weight of a point to to make the radius more or less pronounced or parabolic. This is also how you forma turn of bilge radius into the hull side and flat of bottom without having to break the curve by filleting it, the closer you slide the 2 sets of 3 points to the corner the smaller the radius.
  17. Richard Dunn
    Here is a dropbox link if anybody wants it for a 3d hull model and basic superstructure, lines, stations etc for an Empire Class Tug taken from builders drawings for Empire Shirley and Jane. https://www.dropbox.com/s/muw1fkcvd63nxpi/Empire_Class_Hull.zip?dl=0 I will remove in a few days but if you get Rhino trial ( which is long)you will be able to at least see how the surface is put together, the construction lines are not there just the final result. But you could build an accurate model from this.. I am actually for my Wahine Support vessel. On he subject of 3d modelling of ships, here is another example of how its used, this was done for the 2011 Cutty Sark restoration I was involved in where I had to document in 3d from hundreds of measurements of ships frame while planking was off to capture the ships structure, I intended to do an anatomy of the ship book but it did not get approved, but this is the model and you will notice the usage of resurfacing a scanned hull of the real ship to capture true lines like never before. Sorry I will stop, I don't want to seem to hijack post but thought it might be of interest as it is relevant to the topic. Over and out.
  18. Richard Dunn
    The biggest thing to keep in mind is keep the number of points as low as you can, the simpler you make the cage the easier it is to tweak
  19. Richard Dunn
    I have a question and would like to know suggestions on ways to make a very delicate and troublesome fitting. Grills The big metal finely spaced grills used into engine spaces. I need to make a lot of these with an average size of about 55mm high by anything from 12mm to 60mm wide, they are all fitted into a frame which has radiused corners, does anybody have suggestions other than brass shim and solder? I suspect the blades are bent at a 90 degree angle which would make jigging harder, or easier depending how you look at it. Image below of typical fitting Measurement from deck to deck is 69.6mm to give idea of size
  20. Richard Dunn
    The red stations are the derived ones from the plans outlines. which then gets surfaced into this
  21. Richard Dunn
    If you have some deck plans or the source of the plans is based in Cad You can get pretty close with photos of the underwater as well. I recently had to build a 3d model of the Super yacht "MY Elements" and had no plans as such but I found deck layout plans of good quality that were from a booking site and by setting those up in a 3d modelling program and fitting the surface to the edges you can get close, its the rise of floor and stern skeg areas that require the photos most of the time. Here is an example. https://camperandnicholsons.com/luxury-motor-yacht-for-sale/elements-yachtley-shipyard-turkey-2019 This is where the plans were obtained from. And after setting up the plans at the correct heights and scales the result was this, its close ,not %100 but good enough for the use I needed. I realize this involves 3d modelling but if you can do that then it is more possible. setup process looks like this
  22. Richard Dunn
    When I was starting out I purchased a cd from the Mcneel site which has long been out of production now but I did find this link, it might be the cheapest way to still get it but this will show you the correct way to create a hull. or many types of hulls actually but the superyacht hull is the last lesson in the set. https://www.scribd.com/doc/145007165/Rhino-Advanced-Tutorial-Marine The original was by a guy called Cliff Estes , he might have a site and have it for sale to still if you can find it, but regardless of what software you use the process does not differ much.
  23. Richard Dunn
    Hi Egilman I am happy to help as I do this for a living, I am a professional 3d modeller and specialise in boats and ship and architecture. If you are using those programs because you know them , great but if not you are better off with rhino3d as it is used by many Naval Architects because Nurbs modelling is the best way to do hulls and it has the ability to properly fair your lines. happy to guide you just let me know the sort of detail you have, are you using a lines plan or trying to build from deck plans, or from nothing but profile and plan which is much harder if you want to be accurate
  24. Richard Dunn
    Here can be clearly seen the variation in stages of oxidisation of the decks
  25. Richard Dunn
    Thanks Yves Yes I suppose I am using all techniques , to be honest once the CnC is all cut sanded and removed from sheet it should take very little time to assemble and look like a ship again, the hardest part for me will be deciding when to paint each section, have had automotive acrylic paints made to the BS381c standard and will be airbrushing, though the decks which have a lot of oxidisation and touchups will have to be done with Tamiya and done by hand along with weathering techniques, the green decks always look grubby. The hull plates will be laid in .5mm 3 ply with grain vertical and the edge very lightly arissed or bevelled, the weld bead then gets glued into the slight depression left and the bead rolled with a serrated roller to give effect of weld, the tin canning effect I want to get but understate will be sanded into the high build primer by sanding between frames with finger taking advantage of the un uniform nature it will give, at least that's the theory at this stage, I have not actually tried it yet, the other is to make a rubber screed with the tin canning shaped cut in and hard filler applied to each plate once on hull though this will take a lot longer, but hull an ship will be fully tin canned as this ship had it a lot and was noticeable. I am wondering if making a scale paint roller would yield good results for deck paint to get the pattern you get with uneven coverage. The deck is a colour called forest green, its a dark almost Brunswick green but quickly goes chalky and a pale verdigris colour so was always being touched up. decks were done in a compound called Semprene which was rubber system about 1 1/2 inch thick applied to steel decks, I will be making this from 1mm ply prefinished off ship and glued into place after other paint is done on waterways and deck bars etc. Below you can see the effect, both those colours are the same paint but the bridge top is faded version, image has a cast, yes I know it looks blue but its not. the second image has no cast and is correct colours as far as photos can be

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