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Richard Dunn

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  1. Richard Dunn
    I have sent you a PM with link to file.
  2. Richard Dunn
    A bit of history about the campbell plans, assuming these are the official ones from the Cutty Sark shop. They were drawn in the 50's for the restoration, now in saying that during that restoration they did not survey or measure the hull so in regard to the "big" details like lines, sheer, stem rake etc it is out, but in regards to fittings and things like that it is pretty good but I have noticed some errors in things locations in the past. have you got Photoshop? or can you open PSD files? if you do I will superimpose Campbells over the file I used in the workshop and shoot it to you so you can make your own conclusions
  3. Richard Dunn
    Well I have been experimenting with making windows, I have cut all the 2mm Acrylic glass on the ship now so that's done. So I was playing with styrene or PE for windows and have opted for styrene as I have found I can in fact cut it on the CNC without it melting. This is a HUGE advantage as gluing the frame to the glass can be done neatly with Tamiya cement and all the edge bars around the frames can be welded on, all I will do is make a jig that holds the frame in the bottom of a hole and bend in the lip to fit the sides and weld, then paint and add the wood mullion and glue to the clear Acrylic, this is going to produce pretty faithfull windows to the real thing, and not too slow either which is just as well as I have 300 odd windows to make of varying types
  4. Richard Dunn
    The Scale decks planking on the new one is pretty close I must say, at 1/96 each plank is 1.3mm so hard to do. Also no one really knows what the truth about the deck was when she was a working ship. The decks after the 50's restoration were a sham deck and laid on ply (due to cost and ease of obtaining wood).. The decks as restored are based on old photos and what not but still... the way it is done now you have the margin planks around edge as well as 2 king planks that run alongside the deckhouses, and the sides and middle planking are separated by these king planks but there is little to say it was done like this when she was built. Nepean Longridges book was written while she was still afloat as a training ship and in his observations makes no comment on these king planks other then they go around deckhouses and hatches. I would suspect the 2 king planks are in the way they are is to make access to the longitudinal deck stringers which correspond to them easy to access.
  5. Richard Dunn
    Here you can see the main hatch is 2 spaces to get the location for the beams the frames shown here are the webs and are the locations of beams. If you take the distance from the break of the poop to the after side of main hatch and divide that into 15 sections, that's your frame spacing. assuming model is accurate anyway. I wont bug you if your not too worried... I cant help myself when I see Cutty Sark given my time working on her. Just PM me if you need any info..
  6. Richard Dunn
    Ok the deck beams are located at the web frames only, if you look at the photos I sent you of the hull with all the planking removed on the deck you will see how the main hatch is located between 2 deck beam spaces but the C Jordan plans show the web frame locations, its the same plan I used in the workshop.
  7. Richard Dunn
    I just checked and he has updated the older one. see here https://scaledecks.com/sailing-ships Also not sure if you know this but She was sheathed in Muntz metal not copper, Muntz is about 60% copper and 40% zinc but colour is closer to brass, if you are trying to be accurate you would want to mix a bit of Copper paint into Brass. The Sark as she is now is done in muntz but has a higher zinc content than older muntz so is a bit yellower than the old Muntz.
  8. Richard Dunn
    Have you considered using Scaledecks wooden decks? The rather long link is here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/222876236317?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Df90b4265f33542f5882eb8def39447f5%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D123616690939%26itm%3D222876236317%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeed%26brand%3DRevell&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A222876236317f90b4265f33542f5882eb8def39447f5|enc%3AAQAGAAACEHxeNwGvxhbG4i%2B6Yg0%2Fb6cIW5Q98PGCtfKeijU4yGRR35tmtW5t4PaQz3GngeWecUz64dj77wEWnYdMgXGg3Udvd0OpaxtTCiDDZAVftMbHQen499A5tlEnQEu9uNwZAhLlyPobY6BKeE%2BpYywXRUU9hhvdHFhyvsZOM9%2BaxG%2BmYia60esDoeTdL0TMN3Kt%2FedavXza16vtQinXvMzXzjY5e1rHmJbSynA0vWVNUVlmYH5cypViuclGSHQ%2BFxvBGHlKc8NvA%2Bz69ljiK490b8gRm%2BI96zFQlzEHPS2xq5Q6L7oh1BlGhfCFp4kw%2F4qaG2O7DsV12%2FTIT2%2BZbfLpsQPLMfbhxguHBXeYIU1rB05tbXi3bCuCjGaPDZFtn9%2BpFX3CQwJjKIVlAOLsoITRNH%2BDuE92n%2B8Qqd6uhxl1bk0QTB40WZOgMN4j4TU3DVCT144d61M6BGTrwZgVE4pL9WeXIxnJQYYr7U5mTD41YPDXxCRI7P58eVen%2BjSlX30hKCIdK8CkP6i0e%2BCnI2F3FTwLOqPNCV%2BITJ7ZHEUysOVMDi%2BNO5gMu%2Bt%2Ff3wU7aNh0Ej4lZWXFaMuZmZRU8d6BFsvruTbVZeqR4X8tIBYEnsAjpDUHmZyBpHyG%2Fu30mFzOmvtAiR0mb2VMQGbHJp53p9CBs4FCm06kse%2BmvxEUbw2TSpwByv%2FqrGR%2Ft4n19Bw9w%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=603166947 Just a word though. like the plastic ones the wood ones are not accurate to scale, and roughly only half the number of planks are shown as well as plugs for fixing which look terrible and would not be seen at 1/96. The beam spacing for plank fixing is dictated by the main hatch and that should be exactly 2 spans long and 7 along forward deckhouse for example. its possible the printing has limitations for resolution but I have bought his 1/200 Titanic set and its awesome so it might be old and in need of upgrade I would ask for a custom deck, I can give you a proper deck plan of planking on deck if he is willing to do a new one and can laser print it for you. He is hard to get hold of though I have read.
  9. Richard Dunn
    Those are some interesting considerations, I think I will adhere to this but get it to a primed state and leave it at that. I do think it needs to be at that point so weld seams etc can be done and painted over.
  10. Richard Dunn
    Some progress shots from today the smoke room and windows inside Lots of grills to make as you can see here on the fan rooms A lot of glue smear etc but you can see the joints all came up pretty tight given the size.
  11. Richard Dunn
    Guys there is only one file, the file is 4hr 40mins you can't watch it within Dropbox as might have limits. you need to download it.
  12. Richard Dunn
    Yes VLC is one that works, it may not on some PC's as you might not have the right Codecs but I am not responsible for that and have spent enough time on this already, it took me half a day to edit and render out the different versions. It is edited because if I did not you would be downloading 10GB.
  13. Richard Dunn
    Hi All, Here is the link to the Webinar I held on the 23rd December. This is for all of you who are after a copy and attended or anyone who was not able to attend. https://www.dropbox.com/s/nq8liinoh9e4gqf/Hull Form Basics in Rhino.mp4?dl=0 Regards Richard
  14. Richard Dunn
    So the plan is to seal the plywood with Everdure to harden and protect the wood, sand it all properly flat. then paint areas like toespace and negative details in flat black and then glue the paper panels which have been prepared onto the model, then use thin strips of adhesive aluminium tape to do all the trims and then varnish. The panels are prepped by cutting from sheet running around edge with felt tip of matching colour and varnishing with picture satin varnish. The furniture will be all done on resin printer and painted with pins to fix into floor so it does not shake loose.
  15. Richard Dunn
    Above is the floor and murals from around the engine uptake casing, both seen here in photos. Sorry about res, I forgot to size down.
  16. Richard Dunn
    All done I have created the art for the different surfaces like formica, wood panelling and lino and lastly murals all printed and got the Micador spray as well to go.
  17. Richard Dunn
    I need some help I have to get some heavy paper printed with wood and linoleum patterns for the interior of some spaces, what ink is able to be sprayed with clear varnish without running?
  18. Richard Dunn
    More parts glued on, bow end 85% done
  19. Richard Dunn
    Its ok, its all recorded ok, 2.5 gb worth and will edit it and upload.
  20. Richard Dunn
    15 mins to start, just having breakfast.
  21. Richard Dunn
    Thanks guys, its going to be hard work doing it so early but we will get there, I am not expecting anyone to follow along, that's why its being recorded. I will have to move at a good pace but will explain things as I go, just like the way we taught at Uni. But you will understand the logic of the process and how to apply it to different forms. I will stop every hour for 10 mins for coffee breaks to. just preparing the latest lines from Lloyds now for the example as they are seriously deformed
  22. Richard Dunn
    https://www.rhino3d.com/ Anyone can come as long as they click the link on the day at the time given. Also as Egilman said take note of date line to as I am in Australia
  23. Richard Dunn
    Guys someone has tried to log into the workshop 3-4 days out and as a result we have been bombarded with emails Please don't log into in yet.
  24. Richard Dunn
    That's no different to Cutty Sark lines really, this cutter was showing the hull including the skeg but anyway same thing.
  25. Richard Dunn
    Thanks for the tip Roger, yeah I intend to finish most plates to primer base before fixing and applying weld bead. I was more hoping to get some advice from those with more experience than I on the actual painting order when it comes to topcoat, I was not very clear I am afraid, but wondering if it would be a crime to paint it in areas tat are completed to shell but not fitted out and then touch up once fittings are attached etc, I would think touch ups could actually make it more realistic really as ships are constantly re painted and touched up Well I have assembled the lid frame. or 3 upper levels of Superstructure , I have it just sitting in place, no its not seated yet and is crooked but could not resist leaning parts against it to get a sense of size and bulk. Keep in mind this is all just substrate and final ,5mm ply plating will be glued to this 2mm ply with actual opening sizes, ports etc are 1.5mm smaller all around than the holes you see here.

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