Jump to content

Richard Dunn

NRG Member
  • Posts

    472
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Richard Dunn

  1. I am not sure if anyone has wondered this or not but thought I should explain that the parts which have twist like stringers and hull panels are obviously needing to be accurately developed to a 2d shape, especially as they have tenon holes to align with so Rhino has tools to do this for hull plates in steel, aluminium etc so its nota problem, it asks for the surface to develop and then you select any curves on that surface and it lays out the shape as well as the curves on the surface for you which can then be placed on sheet template for cutting. Another shortcut I have done is to eradicate bevels, I have allowed for the parts to sit on the 1 corner and allow the epoxy glue to fill the space in the bevel. this is to make process faster but also it makes the accuracy a lot better as in the process of bevelling you could potentially create fit errors, the glue I use prefers to have small gaps so strength is not an issue. I wiil do more pages tonight after work but I have cut all the parts above already and are sitting on my bench taunting me, I intend to assemble this over Xmas break and even carve hull then to, a week each I would think.
  2. Thanks guys The best part is the actual assembly should not take that long..days not months, what I really have to figure out and I would appreciate some advice on this is the painting , as in what and when, once I start adding the plates to this set of pages you will see what I mean but not tackled anything this size for that. I think the .4mm plating should be pre primed prior to gluing onto substrate 2mm? any gaps and joins that need touch up can be done at end. I should point out to that as this is being built its still only temporarily fixed to lower hull, once the upper is assembled I want to remove it and then carve the lower hull, I think it makes sense to do this because at the moment the hull is firmly fixed to the base board which is level and straight, with no rise of floor, so measuring heights for knuckle line can be done from the baseboard with no worrying about the hull leaning. Also I should point out that this should be very stable, the ship is a top heavyish design but with B&B lower hull and very light topsides and even lighter top lid it should be fairly stable in even an unballasted state as the weight is all low down. I do want to make kitsets, that was the plan , comprising of this CNC lark, photoetch and resin printed fittings. Actually if anybody has suggestions for subject matter go ahead, Cutty Sark is not an option clearly. I realise that this size is not suitable though...😃
  3. Thoughts so far? I am think of fitting the 2mm acrylic clear into the 2mm ply holes in the hull at this stage flush as the .4mm plates have the actual openings in them 1.5mm smaller and proper size. I estimate that that is 3 days work so far. The bow beyond the forward most bulkhead is bread and butter as well.
  4. Step_16 Major Step Fitting Hull side panels along full hull, tenons should align everything and make hull rigid. all panels to have frames (pink) AND weld seams (red) marked on from shell expansion to aid fixing .4mm plates to this surface
  5. Step_05 addition of stern half bulkheads, frame doubler to allow change in deck thickness and inside of tonnage openings midships
  6. Step_03_Assembly of Main Longitudinals, check overall length for any compounding error and correct. Assemble with bottom edge against a straight edge.
×
×
  • Create New...