Richard Dunn

Guys someone has tried to log into the workshop 3-4 days out and as a result we have been bombarded with emails Please don't log into in yet.

That's no different to Cutty Sark lines really, this cutter was showing the hull including the skeg but anyway same thing.

Thanks for the tip Roger, yeah I intend to finish most plates to primer base before fixing and applying weld bead. I was more hoping to get some advice from those with more experience than I on the actual painting order when it comes to topcoat, I was not very clear I am afraid, but wondering if it would be a crime to paint it in areas tat are completed to shell but not fitted out and then touch up once fittings are attached etc, I would think touch ups could actually make it more realistic really as ships are constantly re painted and touched up Well I have assembled the lid frame. or 3 upper levels of Superstructure , I have it just sitting in place, no its not seated yet and is crooked but could not resist leaning parts against it to get a sense of size and bulk. Keep in mind this is all just substrate and final ,5mm ply plating will be glued to this 2mm ply with actual opening sizes, ports etc are 1.5mm smaller all around than the holes you see here.

Also in this shot of Cutty Sark's aft end you can see the same situation happens which we will cover, the counter is nothing more than an elliptical extension of the transom built from cant frames as you can see here.

Do you mean like this sort of situation? where the sternpost becomes the counter, or in steel shipbuilding terms where the Oxter plate is.

Just click the link, you may have to install the app, I have disabled cameras but am recording.

Ok I will see what I can do LINK FOR WORKSHOP Topic: Ship Hull Form Modelling Time: Dec 23, 2021 06:00 AM Brisbane Join Zoom Meeting https://zoom.us/j/91567240651?pwd=T01tSUxhTk93c3ZwaVdtVGlLRGxuZz09 Meeting ID: 915 6724 0651 Passcode: 294366 One tap mobile +19294362866,,91567240651#,,,,*294366# US (New York) +12532158782,,91567240651#,,,,*294366# US (Tacoma) Dial by your location +1 929 436 2866 US (New York) +1 253 215 8782 US (Tacoma) +1 301 715 8592 US (Washington DC) +1 312 626 6799 US (Chicago) +1 346 248 7799 US (Houston) +1 669 900 6833 US (San Jose) +61 8 7150 1149 Australia +61 2 8015 6011 Australia +61 3 7018 2005 Australia +61 7 3185 3730 Australia +61 8 6119 3900 Australia Meeting ID: 915 6724 0651 Passcode: 294366 Find your local number: https://zoom.us/u/adYLlHnKlB

When I ask for requests, I mean has has anyone got any problems they want covered that have hindered them in their ship modelling journey as I can probably show how to overcome it. I will be recording it at my end anyway as well. @fnkershner Do you mean like my one in here

less than week to go, any requests?

Please see question above this last picture.

Well the hull and superstructure will be clad this weekend and I will be staring to think about the final outer platers made from .5mm ply. I want to ask the scratch builders watching this about their experience with painting, you have seen the size of this model but in paint regards I don't think that its a huge difference to how you approach it, I want to ask you guys for your opinions on how I should proceed with painting, things like do it in stages, paint plates before fitting or paint small areas as I go, things like that, Its something I don't have a lot of experience with so want to have a discussion about it to see what people think. I know how to use guns and airbrushes, that's not the issue but the actual process and flow is what I would like your experiances of.

The upper portion is only screwed on so it can be removed and bottom carved separately, not only that the running gear can be installed far more easily. The upper would be crushed by weight of bottom, its quite lightweight to help with stability

Thanks John Actually I have been fortunate to find some on Airtasker and our Jims mowing guy is awesome so Its more a case of do we go QBCC route and wait or just do it on our own at this point.

Been a slow week as we were getting some major landscaping done ready for Xmas and the 4 day job turned into 5 and even though they have only done 25% of the work they have torn up the contract and walked off leaving us with a heck of a mess. Today is first day back into it to take my mind off it. Starting to clad hull

I found a webpage I have not seen before and found the answer on the balls. Going astern....I doubt they did this every time though surely

I can't show full image or copyright reasons but she is either slowly going aft or forward out of berth, no wake to see or thruster wash either, no anchor cables down. I have hundreds of images of her and only one with these up, I have many of her at berth and at anchor and none have balls... weird hey. They are always present on ship and sitting at base of mast between the splayed blades at base of mast ready to hoist.

I will be more specific about what I want to know. Where does rotation start?

Thanks John Right I need some assistance for a couple of things. What do these balls on aft mast signal and when are they raised up the mast?. Secondly is anyone able to identify this radar? and if so have any clearer pics of it. Most radar equipment was Kelvin Hughes. the scanner I only have serial number 14064 Specification gives this.

Yes Brisbane time

OK now as you know times are going to be the hard part as we have Australia America and UK to consider and it seems the best time for all to meet is Australian time 6.00am this will be 8.00 pm in London and 3pm in Washington DC i reckon 4 hours is about the time and want to do it as soon as i knock off work so thinking the 23rd Dec Let me know how that works people. I start work at 6.00 am anyway so not a huge stretch

Ok here some updates as I near completion of the frame work of the hull and superstructure. View from the bow, showing the areas remaining to be built up with B&B lamination, the fan room and winch pad openings can be seen as well in the deck panel. Simon H if you are watching, now you can see how difficult access to the thruster is. This is the Midship Stbd showing the fit of the deck panels and side shell, there is still the 2mm to go on the superstructure side at top and of course then all gets the .4mm plating over everything. The gangway door and tonnage openings recess are clear here in side of hull. The missing bits on the puzzle joints on deck is just because the part did not quite fit on the CNC, but not wasting ply. This shows the incomplete fitted out smoke room space and the hatch to access engines in the middle. The stern fully framed and mooring decks fitted ready for plating in. In regard to access of the rudder mechanism through the stern door you can see the rudder penetration that I am pointing to. This shows the rubust structure that surrounds the "Lid"of the ship to keep it all straight. And finally the Lid being assembled on my other bench. The large arc shaped parts leaning against wall are the bridge floor and ceiling

Will post images tomorrow but am at step 14 (see page 2) right now

Sorry guys I missed the comments, yes that is the model boat club jetty, they have a clubhouse just out of shot of that image, no swimming, its pretty yuk This weekend cladding will commence frame is complete!!, Xmas has gone from assembly to plating of model. cant wait for that stage as it will look like a ship then.

Thanks Egilman So I will go into a bit more about what going to be covered, not all on the same model and indeed not even on full models but I might pull up some ones already done to demonstrate. I will however be going over the creation of a very well known hull that has about as many undesirable aspects that you can hope for. No as built plans, No printed as designed lines. Tapering planking thickness from garboard to sheer That being the Cutty Sark, it is a very very simple hull to model and has these unknowns to it that we can now solve due to drawings from the past and data collected from the restoration along with about 1300 photos , some I took while over on it and clearly illustrate the unknown aspects. So it will be a case of examining the midship section against the 5-6 that exist and verifying the correct one against photos of the frames and the scan and then using the correct lines to surface the hull and again fitting that faired against the scan. A lot of lines you see that look correct are not, as no doubt lots of people know already, and its not until you setup frames and start to bevel or plank you realise this and have to add/remove material from them and still get a lumpy hull, this will remove all of this and give you perfect lines and results every time, and the ability to develop frames anywhere you want at any thickness of material and be able to cut them as accurately as your woodwork skills allow. I have done this all before for work so it should be straight forward this time. The other aspects will be things like Chine hull creation with no joins so it can be edited as one surface, How to create a lines plan when you have no body plan. Planking layout, carvel and clinker Reading Shell Expansions and how to reconstruct in 3d space Developable and non developable surfaces and how to get true shape for panels How to section models with dynamic sections that update as you edit the hull fairing curves and surfaces Working with images in 3d space How to get heights and measurements of fittings and structure from photos accurately. How to get CAD onto your wood accurately and easily But if you have anything you want covered, even if you don't have cad skills I will see if I can answer it. Although you don't need 3d skills to watch this it will make more sense if you do but you will absolutely want to know how to read plans and lines properly, terms like rise of floor, deadrise, tumblehome, perpendiculars, strakes etc will not be covered and assumed a modeller will know this stuff already. I will probably end up doing this at night or early morning so will be half asleep. hence why I have to do this at Xmas so I don't compromise my day job by being too tired.

Yes I have used Orca but to be honest the only feature as a modeller that I really need from it is the updating sections, the rest of it is largely already part of Rhino it's just the tools are all put into the ORCA toolbar to make it easy. It is a great tool but for that one function it's too expensive and given this is targeting hobbyists, I doubt they will buy a plugin that cost more than Rhino itself does. I used to do Naval Architecture as a career as well building the prototypes to the client brief and nailing the look/functionality of the vessel prior to Lloyds involvement and even I would not buy it for that amount, its just too high priced for one function( for me that's the case) luckily my employers used to have that covered anyway but yes it's great. I will be showing a free alternative way of doing it.