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RogerF

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  1. More PE madness! The PE sheet 'A', calls for 8 stays(?) to be fitted to each funnel. Mmmmm! As can be seen each stay has a slot in the middle through which the moulded rivet detail should be visible..... The PE sheet gives you 10 of these stays - 2 in reserve, which is a good thing because they bend when you just look at them. 😬 I've cut out those for the forward funnel and they can be seen with the funnel and a toothpick for size comparison. I'll cut out the remaining 10 and if I get a total of 16 that are useable then I'll attempt to glue them in place when I get to that stage. Beeswax on the tip of a tooth pick works well for handling these fragile parts but gluing in place should be fun! The second pic shows how they look on the sheet - there is no way I'll attempt to file off the burrs though! The two on the far left are bent because I showed them the craft knife blade.
  2. Indeed. With the Hood, the upper deck is in one piece and has 4 different colours/surfaces. There is the linoleum -deck brown, the steel-deck grey (which I believe is different to 507A), the superstructure grey (Admiralty 507A) and then a section of wood deck, all on the one part. Even with the full masking set I will need to be very careful as to what sequence I adopt for painting and wood deck fitting.
  3. In the time you've taken to do all this PE work, I've managed to drill two holes in the hull of my Hood and it's stand!
  4. A year on the Bismarck? .... at least a year! I decided that I wanted to have the model mounted on the Flyhawk stand during the build to have a solid base and to lessen the chances of damage caused by unnecessary touching the delicate detail and PE. Also it will avoid me handling the hull once painted leaving fingerprints on the paint. Consequently I filled the two holes in the hull bottom that Flyhawk put there for the simple plastic stand included with the kit. The proper Flayhawk stand is made from acrylic sheet and I needed to research how that could be done without cracking or splitting the material when drilling. I bought a step drill and a set of countersink bits needed to accommodate the screw heads beneath the stand. First I measured the positions of the two screws on both the hull bottom and stand and used the step drill to drill two, 4mm holes in the hull and stand then countersunk the stand bottom. I managed to achieve almost perfectly round holes in both hull and stand and went on to remove the protective paper which covered the surfaces of both parts of the stand and mounted the hull using the brass pedestals you can see in the pics. I added a few dry-fitted parts to give an idea of how it will look - one day! NOW I can get down to priming and painting the hull, first removing it from the pedestals. Once the hull is finished I'll mount it on the stand, supergluing the screw into the base and the nut and washer inside the hull - once the decks have been fitted I will no longer be able to remove the model from the stand, which was my intention. Th acrylic stand attracts dust like a magnet and I shall have to deal with that problem before the decks are fitted. Also I will need to protect the stand form paint spray and scratches etc. as the build progresses....... still so much to do!
  5. That's some pretty impressive PE work there Craig, no mean feat in1/700. You mentioned using acrylic adhesive on the hand rails so I'm assuming you use that for most or all PE attachment, am I right? I've never heard of acrylic adhesive, what brand are you using if may ask? With my usual luck it'll be a brand only available in the US!
  6. You've made a great job of all that PE Craig. I know just what you mean about some things being mega delicate, just waiting to be touched so they can bend or drop off. We need three pairs of eyes and very steady hands when handling these parts and also in-and-around them once fitted. Good luck, I'll be following your progress closely.
  7. Am needing to be super careful now with the sequence of the build. I notice that the wooden (main) deck has no cut-outs for the breakwaters meaning the deck will need to be fitted first and the breakwaters added later. There are cut-outs for all the moulded detail on the deck and for all the tiny parts that need to be added once the deck is in place. Unlike the wooden decks of some bigger scale ships, I can see that Flyhawk have already cut out all the openings needed to fit the deck. This should make the process a lot less time consuming. BUT, before the deck can be fitted I need to mask and paint the moulded deck detail (got the full FL masking set). I'm masking to avoid there being a layer (or two) of paint under the wood of the deck which may allow the deck to lift here and there over time. The prop shafts and rudder have been added and the glue left to dry overnight so the next task will be to give the hull halves and decks a good scrub with detergent and an old toothbrush to remove any traces of grease from my fingers and the mould and when dry it's airbrush time with the primer. I decided on black primer to make it easier to see that I have covered all the areas of grey plastic that need to be painted. I will prime the hull too and after several thin coats of primer have dried I intend to proceed as follows. I'll airbrush a thin stripe of black where the bootline will be then once dry I'll mask the bootline with 3mm tape, mask off the upper hull and spry the lower hull (dark grey!). Then, leaving the 3mm tape in place, I'll mask the lower half and spray the upper hull and deck detail with Admiralty Dark Grey 507A courtesy of Lifecolor. I chose this sequence so that it will only be the length of 3mm tape that will need to be removed from the paint surface. Height of the boot line on the original was, I believe, 8ft which, at 1/700, equates to 3,48mm. 3mm is close enough for me and looks about right to my eye at least. I suppose I could try cutting 4mm tape down to 3,5 before fitting but to keep it perfectly parallel during cutting might prove difficult. If anyone has comments/suggestions/warnings on how I'm proceeding then please do comment - this model requires higher skill levels than I am used to and I'm very much leaning as I go along (not obvious is it?!!!!!!), so any advice is welcome.
  8. The handrails look to have been a challenge. Are they glued directly on to the superstructure or did you have to drill out holes for the mounts? The handrails on my U-Boot which are similar to those you have just added, required 0,3mm holes to be pre-drilled using a (PE!) template for each attachment point - I just said... "Nope. Pass!" Great stuff and I love the way your progress is marching on, it helps me to understand some of the processes and decisions that need to be taken with regard to the sequence of superstructure build that I will be facing soon with 'Hood'.
  9. The voices of experience. The PE is almost worth the money just to get the railings set but some of the railing parts themselves are no easy walk-in-the-park! I will add some stairways, assuming I can bend them satisfactorily, and anything else that 'makes sense'!
  10. Thanks for the encouragement guys, it's much appreciated. I chose 1/700 scale simply on the grounds that I don't have space for larger scale models and Flyhawk offers such a wealth of gorgeously crisp detail but the scale makes the whole build quite a challenge. Also, I couldn't resist this little Flyhawk gem that cost a mere €11. It's a 1/2000 scale Bismarck which I thought would be fun. Upper hull and deck are one moulding, lower hull and superstructure seen here separate mouldings which should be interesting when I start painting. Here it is alongside Hood for size comparison. Well, why not?!
  11. This is, to my mind, a further example of taking detail too far, especially in this scale where so many parts require almost super-human skills in just removing them from the sheet. Following my own less than satisfactory entry into PE at 1/700 scale, I shall now only deal with PE parts that: a. represent a quantum leap in detail compared with the plastic part they are intended to replace and more importantly: b. I have a realistic chance of mastering without breakages and deformation. With the Flyhawk kits the detail of the plastic parts is so good that I can do without much, if not most, of the PE parts but the Trumpeter kits in 1/700 are just not of the same high standard as Flyhawk offerings so I guess choosing which PE parts to tackle and which to ignore will prove not so easy. Good luck and keep us updated on the progress.
  12. Following the disappointment with my first attempt at building the PE mast platform I decided to take a breather before getting back down to actually building this ship. I figured gluing the plastic hull halves together would be a good start and should not prove too difficult and it wasn’t. The fit of the two halves is beautiful but with the bow end lined up the lower hull half was short of the top half by about 1mm. Not a lot, but the join needed sanding and shaping to remove the step that would otherwise have been left. No big deal. More of a deal was the fact that despite extreme care on my part I managed to get traces of cement on the outside of the hull, compounded by being accompanied by a totally unnecessary fingerprint. By masking and then careful sanding with Tamiya sanding sponge (1500 and 2000) I was able to remove the worst and the areas should be hardly visible, if at all, once the hull is painted and weathered. Next step will be to add the prop-shaft ‘blimps’ and rudder prior to priming hull - the screws will not be added until the model is nearly completed to avoid being damaged during the build. I will be using Vallejo primer but not yet sure if it will be black or grey. 1st photo shows the cement marks which in the 2nd picture have been largely removed. Then just a couple of pics to show how the deck(s) fit and how wonderful Flyhawk’s moulded detail is. Progress will be slow, but I am starting to enjoy the process although at this rate it will take me a year to finish!
  13. What you see in my pic is a PE part which I cut out from its brass sheet - on a hard, acrylic base 'tile. Guys, I’m not new to model building and I’m not new to the tools of the trade BUT, I AM new to working with PE this thin. I can bend PE of any thickness as long as it is straight/flat , but I first have to get that piece of PE out from its sheet! No tweezers/shears/scissors on earth can get between these parts to cut, a KNIFE is the only solution, and I am not capable of doing this. End of!!!!!!! I love you guys but I know when I have to throw in the towel, ok?!
  14. Progress is painfully slow. My experiences with the PE in this kit have been sobering to say the least. The next piece to be removed from the brass sheet is the base of the mainmast platform which despite the greatest care I am able to muster, broke and bent in 2 places before it was even fully removed from the sheet. I can't work like this. I have to accept that I am not capable of working with brass sheet this thin with parts having areas that bend or break every time I look at them. If you look closely you can see 2 of the spots that need filing where the the knife has cut through the brass to remove the part, eg. bottom extreme right and left. I am simply not able to handle a piece like this to file it where needed without bending or otherwise damaging it elsewhere. I could file where it needs to be filed but the part would suffer as a whole and that's my dilemma. I've started to re-think and I'm tending towards a different approach. I will ignore 80 to 90% of the upgrade PE and concentrate on the superbly detailed plastic. I'll add wooden deck, brass artillery barrels, turned brass main mast all the railings (a must!) and the 3d-printed parts and leave it at that. I don't see what else I can do!
  15. Mmmmm, not till next year you say. At my rate of build you'll overtake me before I even get the hull painted! I too have the FH wooden deck which is another challenge yet to be faced which I'm looking forward to (dreading!).
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