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Spaceman Spiff

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  1. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from NavyShooter in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Minor updates again - this kit sat on the shelf of doom since the last post. Hated it because it was pure crap. Still the only game in town so I decided to restart it. 
     
    i used lead wire for conduit and started adding PE to the island. Still much more to do but here goes. Enjoy. Did I mention it was pure crap???


  2. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to ddp in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    approx. how much is the bottom of the bow & stern raised in relation to the midships? had the reverse issue with my 1/429 scale OBB's so i ran them thru a belt sander that resolved that issue as now the keel is flat from bow to stern.
  3. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to patrickmil in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    I guess with that in mind, it all comes down to how accurate you want the part of the hull above the waterline to be in regards to distances between hatches, fittings, and vents and the flight deck. Shimming and milliput might be the way to go if you already have the interior of the hull fitted out.
  4. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    I removed the pour stubs last night just to see how it sat - fine in the middle and both ends raised off the table…so both ends droop at the top and at the bottom, raised. Almost as if each end shrank. As I said, I’ll make an at sea dio so the bottom parts are covered. 
  5. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Now that is an awesome idea! Thank you. Think I should glue the deck at the points it fits and then use that method? I really like that. I’ll also measure the door/platform attachment points/ etc are on hull and then remake them in their proper place. You’ve given me some hope, man 
  6. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Glue: epoxy or gel super glue. Thought I’ll take plasticard, etc, and make what I can. On the sides, I was thinking of making little braces so to speak and then use the plastic sheet to sort of wall it off. Up at the bow where it curves I was thinking of making more braces it whatever and then using miliput and shape it (if I can). Yes I have a compass 
  7. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    I think I may just go the shim/fill route. Then measure/relocate any door, etc to their proper place up higher. I think that would be a bit easier, although I can see the bow area giving me a fit 
  8. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Thank you - I may try that. Would the curves and all change shape?
  9. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Thank you. If I were remove the installed interior fittings, how would you recommend the hot water treatment? That’s one solid - and heavy - piece of resin. 
     
    i also contacted the manufacturer for advice, even though that kit is out of production. 
  10. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    I’ll give that a try. Not sure exactly  how to do that one, though, as I built up the interior and primed it. Think that would be easier than shims and milliput?
  11. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Not sure as there are two fairly large pour stubs on the bottom. I plan on putting it in a little dio like it is underway
     
    upside down on the table: 

  12. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    So this is what I’m dealing with now. A lot of work ahead - the flight deck is straight but look at those gaps. Looks like I have a few shims to make. Ugh. Ideas?? 
  13. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Thanks man. Still some rough areas and I definitely could have done better (I critique my work harder than anyone else), but it’s not bad. The hull is a different story as trying to fit the fight deck to it proved to be no fun at all. A lot of grinding/cutting/shaving/sanding is ahead of me. Not to mention that the sides are not exactly straight. A lot more to go but at least there is light in the tunnel lol
  14. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from Javlin in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Update: paint is on. The island was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Great stuff. White was then used in sort of a black basing method, although the tonal differences aren’t really visible in the pics. Time to set it aside and work on the harder stuff. Thank you for looking. 
  15. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to ddp in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    tape the deck in place not glue it as would be easier for adjustments if deck is removable.
  16. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to ddp in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    give a slight sand to both the plastic sheet & the top of the hull to give the glue more surface area to attach to. put a shim or whatever between the deck &  hull top but not glued then use the compass at the widest part of the gap with 1 part of the compass sliding across the deck  & the scribe part of the compass to the hull at the widest part. slide the top part of the compass along the deck edge as the scribe part of the compass scribes a line parallel to the deck into the hull till you reach the end of the gap. cut away the material above the scribed line till the end of the gap. now the gap should have the same width from the front to the back of the gap which you can now fill with strips of plastic & once the glue has cured, can carve/sand that area to proper shape. once primed & painted, you won't know that there was a gap there. 
    even tho i currently only work with plastic, i use that same principle on my 1/429 scale OBB's & my gaps are almost non-existant with hardly any putty use.
  17. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to ddp in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    what glue & what materials are you going to use to fill that gap between the hull & flight deck? do you have a compass/divider?
  18. Sad
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from Canute in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Not sure as there are two fairly large pour stubs on the bottom. I plan on putting it in a little dio like it is underway
     
    upside down on the table: 

  19. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Update: paint is on. The island was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Great stuff. White was then used in sort of a black basing method, although the tonal differences aren’t really visible in the pics. Time to set it aside and work on the harder stuff. Thank you for looking. 
  20. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to ddp in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    how flat does the keel lay on a flat straight surface?
  21. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    So this is what I’m dealing with now. A lot of work ahead - the flight deck is straight but look at those gaps. Looks like I have a few shims to make. Ugh. Ideas?? 
  22. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from mtaylor in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Update: paint is on. The island was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Great stuff. White was then used in sort of a black basing method, although the tonal differences aren’t really visible in the pics. Time to set it aside and work on the harder stuff. Thank you for looking. 
  23. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from Canute in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Thanks man. Still some rough areas and I definitely could have done better (I critique my work harder than anyone else), but it’s not bad. The hull is a different story as trying to fit the fight deck to it proved to be no fun at all. A lot of grinding/cutting/shaving/sanding is ahead of me. Not to mention that the sides are not exactly straight. A lot more to go but at least there is light in the tunnel lol
  24. Like
    Spaceman Spiff reacted to patrickmil in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Looks like you're making a gem out of a tough kit. Great work so far!
  25. Like
    Spaceman Spiff got a reaction from rcweir in LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN   
    Update: paint is on. The island was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Great stuff. White was then used in sort of a black basing method, although the tonal differences aren’t really visible in the pics. Time to set it aside and work on the harder stuff. Thank you for looking. 
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