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    Lexington, MA, USA

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  1. That's whose I used in 2018 (for 1:96, hi-vis) decals, but I got them through floatingdrydock.com. They were perfect for my need. Bob
  2. I have a photo that's not so good, but you can see it all. The bottle is on the lower left with a bar regulator (so-called, I think, because it's used for dispensing beer). Directly above it, hanging from the corner of that bench is my airbrush. Not easy to see. Various of my cleaning supplies are strewn across the bench top. Incidentally, I always use a respirator when I spray paint, just to be safe. It's all part of my ritual of painting so I don't even think of it as a nuisance. I clean with 91% isopropyl alcohol for the most part. Bob
  3. I have a Badger 150 that has served me well (when I've needed it) for many years. When I got it I was living in an apartment and the noise of a compressor was unacceptable, so I started with CO2 and have stuck with it. CO2 is silent and there are no concerns about moisture in the supply, though I don't think this is the cheapest route for a heavy user. However, since there are often years in between my uses, that hasn't ever mattered much. I hate the racket from compressors! I use acrylics (Tamiya) exclusively and completely disassemble and clean the brush after every single use. Trying to shortcut cleaning has never worked for me.
  4. I have a Model Shipways kit for the US Brig Niagara that I don't think I'm ever going to build. I'm offering it for free except for postage to anywhere in the US (if you're near Lexington, MA you can just come by and pick it up). The kit was new when I got it 2-3 years ago but my interests have wandered from the era. The box has been opened but all the parts packages are still sealed. I believe it is 100% complete. PM me if you are interested.
  5. I used "Glue 'n Glaze" successfully on both brass and resin surfaces. It's been about a year so far on the Peary and still looks good. The brass was painted beforehand with acrylic. Bob
  6. I have known magnetic lamps hung overhead to let go if bumped. The ones on my bandsaw and drill press like to do this just to hear me curse. Bob
  7. The original question got me to wondering about the use of continuous non skid pathways vs. the rectangular "tread strips" that we often see in pictures of US Navy ships in the WWII era. I looked in what references I have, but turned up very little. In "Fletcher-Class Destroyers" by Alan Raven there's a plan of the main deck and O1 level on pp. 84-85. The caption there says "General Arrangement of Main & Superstructure Decks Showing Layout of Non-Slip Walkways Laid onto the Decks. Although this arrangement was generally followed, there were many exceptions, as shown in the photos of deck views." And in "The Floating Drydock's Plan Book The Fletcher Class" on p. 117 there's a photo from Oct 1944 of USS Norman Scott (DD 690) which says "Like many ships, she had deck tread strips added rather than solid walkways." My takeaway from this meager information is that one is not likely to know what the ship being modeled had without contemporary photos of it. For information about the materials, this link looks like a great starting point: https://www.shipcamouflage.com/painting_and_cementing_chapter4.htm#Miscellaneous Items Bob
  8. I found this article on the web by Clay Feldman when I was pondering the same question: https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-sn-shopnotes/smf-sn-gratings It worked wonderfully for me, but it requires a little table saw.
  9. Tehnoart (based in Riga, Latvia) had a limited edition resin/brass/fiberglass kit of Endurance out a couple of years ago. Unfortunately the company is no more and I think there were only a dozen or two kits available of that ship. This is a link to an article about one build of that kit: https://www.expeditions.com/blog/edurance-model-ship-ken-greenwood/
  10. I compiled a Table of Contents for the book and have posted it here. Kurt Van Dahm has incorporated it into the NRG's PDF version of the book and I believe it will be included in all future distributions of "Progressive Scratch-Building in Ship Modeling" that the NRG sends out. There was an unexpected complication in this: there are three different versions of the book now - all essentially identical in content but each with different page numberings. They are: The printed version of the book, copyright 2006. The TOC for it is the attached download named "TOC for Ship Modeling by Feldman (printed version).pdf". The former PDF version of the book, copyright 2003, which has been distributed by the NRG. The TOC for it is the attached download named "TOC for Ship Modeling by Feldman (orig PDF version).pdf". The current PDF version of the book, also copyright 2003, which no one has yet but is what you'll get from the NRG in the future. No download is needed because its TOC will be integral to the document. I hope this is not too confusing - in content all of these versions of the book are the same - it's only the page numbers which differ. This was both a tedious and enjoyable exercise for me; enjoyable because through it I had several pleasant conversations with Kurt. TOC for Ship Modeling by Feldman (printed version).pdf TOC for Ship Modeling by Feldman (orig PDF version).pdf
  11. Thanks, Kurt. Then I will try to get ambitious and do something myself. If what I come up with looks useful I'll post it here. Bob
  12. Does anyone know if an index has been compiled for Clay Feldman's "Progressive Scratch-Building in Ship Modeling"? I've just obtained Seaways Publishing's bound collection (2006) of articles by Dr. Feldman. It's packed with information, but there's barely a Table of Contents and no sign of an index that I can see for the whole volume nor for any of the individual articles.
  13. Steve, Have you noticed that the planking around the forecastle deck on the Model Shipways kit is different from the Mayflower II and Baker's plans? In the kit there is a planked strip that starts about 1/8" above the aft end of the deck, then 1/8" gap, and then 3/16" of railing and planking above. So the space is roughly in thirds with the middle third open. On Mayflower II, however, the space is divided in half and the lower half is open. I'll attach a photo of the ship as it was in 2017 and which is consistent with Baker's plans from 1957. For a real vessel, the Baker plan would drain much better. I'm not sure which way I'm going to go on this myself but I wish I had seen it earlier.
  14. The Floating Drydock's Plan Book for USS Missouri says that during her shakedown in 1944 the ship was Measure 32, Design 22D. In January 1945, on her way to the Pacific, all vertical surfaces were repainted to Haze Gray (5-H), with a Navy Blue (5-N) band on the hull parallel to the waterline from the lowest point of the sheer down [to the boot topping]. All horizontal surfaces were Deck Blue (20-B). And they say she finished the war with that pattern. Later they say that some attempt was made before the surrender ceremony to strip the paint off the decks. Below the waterline was "Dark Anti-fouling Paint" with a 4 foot wide black boot topping. Finally, the Floating Drydock's book says that in early 1946 the ship was painted Haze Gray on vertical surfaces and Deck Blue on the horizontals. Paul Stillwell, in "Battleship Missouri, An Illustrated History", mostly agrees with the above except that he is quite clear that the deck in the area of the signing was freshly painted with a dark blue paint "like the other decks". Later he has a picture *after* the signing, on the way back to Pearl Harbor, of paint being stripped from the decks.
  15. A great reference is "The Floating Drydock's Plan Book Gato & Balao Class Submarines". I think this (and other Plan Books - they're all worth having) is still available as a pdf from http://www.floatingdrydock.com. On p. 95 there is an article on camouflage which basically agrees with black for Gatos at least up to mid 1944. Everything visible from the air had to be black and below the waterline black anti-fouling paint was to be used. Sheen isn't mentioned but I think it should be matte. Late in the war more complicated schemes that involved various shades of gray were introduced but (the article goes on to say) some boats were black throughout the war. Bob

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