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Jay 1

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Everything posted by Jay 1

  1. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – Hull Cleanup • When I was 2nd planking, I had to pare areas of the 1st planking near the bottom of the stern and the stem so that the 2nd planking would hood reasonably well into their rebates. Those pared areas are where fill was needed to level the 2nd planking and fair the hull. • I scabbed the tops of the stem and stern with 1mm stock so that their thicknesses were uniform and close the large through gaps in both pieces. • All the rebate location holes were plugged and then filled; likewise, rebate joints along the stem, stern, and keel were leveled at their joints. • Because I wanted a moveable rudder, I used one of Chuck’s pintle and gudgeon kits to start hanging the rudder. • I planed the tops of the gunwales to get them level and then after the gunwale rubbing strakes were installed, I filled the tops of the gunwales to ensure the multiple wood joints don’t flash through when the gunwales are painted. • Installing all the rubbing strakes required using CA and were a bit tricky. The Vine only had 1 rubbing strake on its gunwales; the rubbing strakes on the hull are positioned according to the Vine’s plans. • All the bulkhead tops were cut off with a flush-cut saw. • To help harden delicate areas of fill and help with painting hull when I get to that point, I sealed the hull with shellac. Although priming wasn’t necessary with the hull sealed with shellac, the purpose for using primer was to easily identify areas on the hull that will need additional work, corrections, or etc. before I paint and to also further harden the hull fill. • I selectively scored hull planks so that the planking will flash through when I paint the hull; however, after priming, I think the scoring looks like crap and I’ll fill these spots when I make other minor hull fixes. Cheers, Jay
  2. Jay 1
    Chris, you turned a pig’s ear kit into a silk purse—well done!
  3. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – 2nd Planking Completed I finished the 2nd planking today and will begin giving the a hull a cleanup with some sanding, patching the kit’s alignment holes in the keel, stem, and stern, and taking care of a few other hull odds and sods. Cheers, Jay
  4. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – 2nd Planking Shout out to those who are following along or popping in for a peek! The Vine’s gunwale was 9” wide x 5” thick (~ 23 cm x 13 cm), which works out to be ~ 4 mm x 2 mm at scale. I elected to go with 6 mm x 1 mm because the 6 mm dimension contrasted better with the 4 mm planking and 1 mm looked better than 2 mm. Both the port and starboard gunwales are installed and taper into the stem and stern rebates. 6 mm wide garboards are also fitted both port and starboard. As mentioned in earlier, I’m using a 4 butt shift 5:3:1:4:2 pattern and 7 strakes are installed both port and starboard. Cheers, Jay
  5. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – 2nd Planking I had a build delay for a bit while awaiting wood, but that’s all good now. I installed the keel, stem, and stern pieces along with their pear overlays that form rebates. The stern rebate turned into a gotcha. In the 1st pic. below one can see there is no rebate at the stern. The stern piece fit fine, so it wasn’t a keel issue. I then checked other logs and BE may have had a similar issue but it’s not mentioned in his build. Other logs had rebates and others were indeterminate. I think the most likely cause was the limewood planking. BE and I both noticed it varied in thickness. The other possibilities are either the stern piece is slightly short or its rebate overlay piece was long. To resolve the stern rebate issue, with a chisel I pared in rebates at the stern and deepened the rebates at the stem (they were too shallow). In the 2nd picture, the missing piece on the stern is where I stern nicked a piece of the rebate overlay with my chisel and will fix it when I clean up the hull after the 2nd planking. The last picture is my 2nd planking order of battle: It will be a 4 butt shift. Cheers, Jay
  6. Jay 1
    Metal Work: Flues and Lantern I worked on making fittings while waiting for more wood (see previous post). In the 1st pic below, I’m drilling out steel a steel boiler flue and in the 2nd pic, turning brass for a navigation lantern . The 3rd pic are my initial results along with the stock I used. The lantern in the 4th pic is a test piece and is 4.5 mm at its widest and 8 mm high. While it’s not visible, I bored a 3 mm hole from the bottom of the stock so I can possibly later insert material for a lens. The reason it’s a test piece is because I’m going to try to mill openings in the front and back for the lens whilst leaving 2 brass side pieces about 1.5 mm each. What I’m not sure about with the milling is if an end mill will “catch” on an edge of the hole I bored and tear out the workpiece—i.e., I’m going to mill perpendicular to the bore hole, so that’s how the tear out may happen. On the flipside, if all works out, I’ll do finish work on the lantern’s metal. If the milling works on the lantern, I’ll use a similar technique when I make the port and starboard running lights. The 2nd to the last pic is the assembly of the boiler and stove flues. The boiler flue dia. Is 3 mm, and I’ll cut it to length when I get to the point where it’s ready for installation. The angles on the boiler flue parts are each at 67.5 degrees. When then the angles are pieced together, they form the 45 degree complimentary angle of the flue’s top piece. The stove flue dia. is 2.25 mm, and it too will be cut to length at a later point. The angle of the top piece is also at 45 degrees and was far simpler to do than the boiler flue! The last pic are of the finished flues and the stove flue’s deck plate (+ a spare). I used 12L14 steel for these parts because steel usually takes cold bluing well and looks fantastic! Where practical, I’ll use more blued 12L14 steel elsewhere in the build because of how well it looks in comparison to blackened brass. Cheers, Jay
  7. Jay 1
    Build Decisions I've taken a brief pause before I move on to the 2nd planking. The True Vine's actual gunwales dimensions were 9 inches wide (~23 cm) and 5 inches thick (~13 cm). If I model those, I'm not sure if the scale gunwales will play nice with the available space at the stem and stern. The wood for the gunwales should arrive next week, and when it does, I'll begin dry fitting / testing the gunwales to see if they'll work. I also paused while I made decisions about additional wood for a few other features as well. A biggie here was whether to use the kit's design for the bulwarks frame timbers or modify. Chris' design for the bulwark timbers is fantastic, it's just that the kit's design here doesn't quite fit for the Vine. Essentially the decision about modifying the bulwarks frame timbers came down to whether or not I was willing to do a lot of fiddly work. In the end, doing fiddly work won.... 🤣 Cheers, Jay
  8. Jay 1
    Thanks for jumping aboard, Bob! Sorry I didn't acknowledge you sooner fellas: Shouts out to Jacques Cousteau, Thukydides, and Keith for your interest as well and also for everyone's likes! Bob, what you said about these boats are why I'm drawn to them as well! And the regional variations throughout Europe and the US (as well, elsewhere) offer seemingly endless subjects for modeling. While I appreciate sailing warships, the bluff bows and lines of the 18th and early 19th Century ships don't captivate me like these little guys. Cheers, Jay
  9. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – 2nd Planking Prep After finishing the 1st planking, I steamed it to help level uneven planks and etc. I then sanded out high spots. A trade I practiced when I was younger was interior wall repair (I still do repair work for family and friends in need). I used that skillset to fill and finesse the hull in preparation for its 2nd planking. The pics that follow are the progression of finessing the hull. Although the hull looks like hell in the last photo, it actually is exceptionally fair. I then sealed the hull with shellac, scuff sanded it with P180, and then rough-marked bulkhead locations for the 2nd planking. Cheers, Jay
  10. Jay 1
    Hi Paul, excellent—thank you for your feedback and help! Jay
  11. Jay 1
    What sizes of extra wood do you recommend getting for a Cheerful build? I’m going to order a cut package for the build and figured I would add some extra wood based on the experience/ recommendations of builders who ran short on wood during their builds. Thanks in advance for your suggestions! Jay
  12. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – 1st Planking Finished She’s starting to look like a Boaty McBoatface! 🤣 Boaty McBoatface aka the "Sir David Attenborough" Caught Covid this Friday while on my way home from work travel, so got a Paxlovid script and finished the 1st planking in-between naps and etc. Cheers, Jay
  13. Jay 1
    Well done and congratulations! 🎉
  14. Jay 1
    Thank you, BE! Your "Lady Eleanor" and "Muirneag" builds were, and are, inspirations for my build. Like you, I'm also fond of these fishing boats--they have so much character! To build back my modeling skillset after such a long break, I plan on building several of Chris' fleet--plus, they'll make nice gifts. Oh the Master Hand was lovely--what a sad fate she came to. Hopefully Chris will consider adding her to his line up...we definitely know there are at least 2 builders that will go for her! 😉 Had to include her image below to maybe sway Chris in case he drops in..... Source: Capt. David Bray's lovely build at: https://nauticalnostalgia.com/model-making-model-engineering/master-hand/ Cheers, Jay
  15. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – 1st Planking I also began planking the hull with its 1st layer of limewood. I decided to follow the more standard method of lining off the hull. It’s been a long time since I did any planking, and I definitely needed the practice! A part of my planking practice was aiming for symmetrical planks at the bow and at the stern. I worked down from the bulwarks and then up from the keel and completed 16 strakes and have 14 to go, which I’ll complete when I return from work travel next week. I'm using a combination of PVA and CA to secure the planks. I then lightly brushed PVA inside the planked areas to help prevent any planks from popping up. Overall, I’m feeling pretty good thus far about my planking. A Few Observations: The midship bulkhead distance from the bulwarks to keel bottom is about 2mm wider than the kit’s planks. In other words, based on my measurements, a 7mm plank is needed for 1 strake on each side of the hull. I think Blue Ensign made a similar observation about wider planks with his Lady Eleanor build. The thickness of some of the limewood varies, so there are height variations with planks—not a big deal for this layer but the thickness differences will make for a bit more sanding and etc. I think the thickness and the finish of the limewood can’t totally be helped though because it’s such a soft wood and likely difficult to mill. Cheers, Jay
  16. Jay 1
    Hull Construction – Installing Bulwarks I was able to get some build time in this week and followed the instructions for 1st forming the bulwarks and then doing their glue ups. This process went smoothly and with no hitches. Cheers, Jay
  17. Jay 1
    Thank you, Thukydides for your kind comment—adding the mods have been both fun and challenge! There will be more as I get further with the build that will be fun additions. Cheers, Jay edited for grammar error
  18. Jay 1
    Current Build Status and Break Now that I know my modifications won’t trash the model and actually worked out okay, from this point forward, my log will reflect my where I’m actually at with my build which is installing the bulwarks and planking. Because I have a lot happening at work next week and then am on the road for work again the following week, I may not be building much, if at all, for next couple of weeks. Cheers, Jay
  19. Jay 1
    Subdeck Installation and Fairing The milestone with the deck layout / hull modifications was installing the subdeck. Even though I reinforced the subdeck with birch plywood, I still didn’t know if the subdeck would or would not split from all the modifications I made to it. Additionally if the subdeck didn’t split, I also didn’t know if it would be able to bend enough into its BH positions due to its added reinforcement. I knew pre-shaping the birch plywood strips would help with bending but still the ply was additional layer of wood that would decrease the subdeck’s flexibility. Overall, fairing went well. The only real issue I encountered was with BH 1. While a batten ran fair from the bow infill piece, atop the upper sections of BH 1, and back to BH 4, the same batten didn’t touch the lower sections of BH 1 but did run fair from the bow infill piece to BH 4. I think reason behind this issue was operator error when I beveled the port and starboard lower sections of BH 1: Either my bevel angle was wrong or I just simply took off too much MDF. At any rate, I shimmed the lower sections of BH1 and made adjustments until I got fair batten runs from the bow to BH 4. Cheers, Jay
  20. Jay 1
    Deck Layout / Hull Modifications Pt 3 I plan on having the entryway to the companionway open; thus, the details that follow should hopefully be visible to a viewer. Some may notice I didn’t make a companionway cutout on the subdeck. The reason for this is the companionway’s position is dependent on the positions of an aft steering assembly and thwart. After I determine those item’s 2 positions, I’ll then make a subdeck cutout for the companionway. I took dimensions off the aft end of part 19 between BHs 9 and 10 and used those dimensions to make a cardstock template. I then traced the cardstock template outline onto a piece of birch plywood and then planked over the plywood with boxwood deck strips. After scraping and clear coating (matte), I then glued the boxwood planking to the aft end of part 19. Cheers, Jay
  21. Jay 1
    Deck Layout / Hull Modifications Pt 2 Before I glued the BHs to the false keel, I checked the camber radius of a couple BHs with radius curves. I came up with a 26 degree radius for the deck camber. I marked and cut that radius, along with also marking and cutting a 24 degree radius, in some scrap. I’ll use the 26 degree radius as a sanding template and the 24 degree radius as a bending template (the 2extra degrees is to help compensate for wood spring back). I then cut strips of thin birch plywood, wet bent it, and then let it dry on my 24 degree radius template. Once the strips were dry, I glued them over various cutouts on the underside of the subdeck. I then hand-drilled starter holes in the subdeck that corresponded to Vine’s additional fittings and alternative fittings positions. The mizzen mast hole was drilled to size. I then cut out an undersized hole where the warp room hatch will be located. Cheers, Jay
  22. Jay 1
    Deck Layout / Hull Modifications Pt 1 The purposes of my deck layout and hull modifications were to accommodate the Vine’s additional fittings, alternative fittings positions, and the fish hold’s alterations. I first beveled all the BHs and infill pieces with my Proxxon rotary tool (on its slowest speed). I cobbled together a makeshift dust extractor while I did my beveling (finally found a use for Proxxon’s rotary tool holder….lol). I then cutoff a top portion of the false keel between BHs 9 and 10 (more on this in Hull Mods Pt 3 below), and then glued all the BHs to the false keel. Parts 18 and 19 were then glued into place. You can see in image below where the warp room area was painted on part 19. Cheers, Jay
  23. Jay 1
    Fish Hold Modifications Pt 3 I then painted the fish hold area, and also BHs 9 and 10, light grey (Mr. Color 97). I used light grey because white paint usually looks grey in dim lighting. I painted the top edges of the fish hold flat white (Mr. Color 62) because those areas would receive more direct light than the hold further below. As mentioned earlier, the fish hold and deck layout / hull modifications were done in tandem so what follows next will appear like I’ve skipped a few things; however, those gaps are covered in my deck layout / hull modification posts. After the subdeck was installed, I undercut part 19’s MDF until it wasn’t fully visible below the two part 20 pieces. I then installed 8 3mm shellacked pearwood stanchions in the fish hold. The fore and aft stanchions on each side of the hold don’t fall under green deck beam lines because that’s where BHs 5 and 7 are located. I then installed painted veneer (Mr. Color 323) on all 4 sides of the fish hold and then sanded the tops of the veneer flush with the subdeck. The last item of the fish hold modification was installing bracing blocks to additionally compensate for the cutout I made in part 19. Successfully completing the fish hold modifications without trashing the integrity of the model was a milestone! Cheers, Jay
  24. Jay 1
    Fish Hold Modifications Pt 2 I then hand-drilled starter holes into part 19 that correspond to Vine’s subdeck additional fittings and alternative fittings positions. While not visible, I reinforced the underside of part 19 at its original mizzen mast hole before I hand drilled the mizzen mast’s new position. I also reinforced the top of the new mizzen mast hole with an additional drilled support. Both holes are slightly ovoidal fore and aft to allow for raking the mizzen mast when it’s installed. The pencil lined ½ square starboard of the mizzen mast support is about where the warp room hatch will open to, so this area will be painted. I then used a fret saw to cut out the X’d areas of part 19 to deepen the fish hold. I left about a 1/4 inch / ~ 6mm of meat on the port and starboard sides of part 19 to help keep it from possibly breaking. I then began added the upper and lower supports framing to BHs 5, 6, 7, and the false keel; I also glued bracing inserts atop the lower framing supports. Cheers, Jay
  25. Jay 1
    Fish Hold Modifications Pt 1 My purpose for modifying the fish hold depth was to add interesting detail to the model. I began the fish hold modifications by using a height gage to mark positions for fish net platform supports. Because I didn’t have a sense of the model’s rigidity and etc. at this point, I didn’t want to alter bulkhead (BH) 6 or the false keel to the point where I would potentially compromise the hull form or structural integrity of the kit. My decision on the heights of the net platform supports was a balance of getting a net to fit in the hold, hide the false keel and BH 6, and yet also be able to position the net so portions of the hold depth and etc. are visible. These platform supports largely won’t be visible, esp. along the false keel, once netting is added to the hold. I then laid the fish hold frame (part 22) on top of the subdeck that in turn was laid over part 19 (it’s kind of sub-subdeck). The purpose here was to mark where I would make my initial cut outs in part 19 to deepen the fish hold. I then marked positions for lower supports onto BHs 5, 6, and 7. The purpose for these lower supports is hold bracing inserts that should help compensate for the weakening of part 19 due to its cutouts. The bracing inserts will also serve as platforms onto which stanchions will be glued. I also traced the outlines of BHs 5 and 7 onto basswood and then cut out those traced BHs. These BH cutouts were then glued to BHs 5 and 7 so that the fore and aft sides of the fish hold aligned with the fish hold subdeck cutout. Cheers, Jay

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