Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Well, guys, here we go. The pace is ever increasing, like a rocket gaining speed. The stress and pressure is also increasing exponentially. On another note, i can now officially make the claim that my build's rigging is more complex than that of Baker's build, as he did not include buntlines on the topsails. I will not do the bowlines or the braces until all other rigging is done on the sails. I learned that the standing parts of the course leechlines actually begin at the crosstrees instead of the topsail yards. This is helpful. The yard broke twice but i reglued it with no issues. This was the most fragile yard, so i am assuming this will not be an issue in the future. I like to work from the top down, because it is easier to run lines down to the deck when another sail (or sails) isn't in the way. That being said, i am trying to do one sail a day. This seems to work for me, as i am producing a satisfactory model so far. However, it is coming down to nothing going catastrophically wrong. Don't look away, now!
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Well, the downward spiral continues. I ended up going with my gut and adding buntlines on the spritsail, because i have seen paintings of the massive Dutch galleons (shocker, am i right) vs. the Spanish ships during the Dutch Independence in the early 17th century. Most paintings of the ships show buntline cringles on almost every sail, but no buntlines. I guess they may have taken them off for combat, or something. But, at least in theory, the spritsail, as well as every other square sail, would have carried buntlines. So, i decided to add them onto the spritsail, and i intend to do the same rig on the topsails. The courses will both have four buntlines apiece; they will run up from the sail to a single block on the yard, over the yard, and down to a pin. This is the 16th century, and minor lines would not be standardized until the late 17th. I will reduce the amount of blocks used by foregoing the blocks on the underside of the fighting tops/crosstrees to accept the lines. I kind of wish i had made the vertical tilt more extreme, but, it still looks good either way. I am choosing to go with the very minor weathering on the sails for the Golden Hinde, as they were only on the first leg of their journey at this point. I just oiled them to a canvas tan shade. The sails would not be filthy and worn at this point, as she was an (almost) brand new ship.
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This WAS supposed to be a chill-out build, but it quickly evolved (or de-volved) into a mad dash to put as much detail and as complicated of rigging (with the egging of Baker and Louie da Fly, of course), and this is the result of my emerging psychopathy so far: At no point did i ever even consider consulting the Revell instructions for this segment of the rigging. I knew what to do. I gave it the ol' Baker treatment, and vastly complicated the oversimplified rigging. I even went so far as to ignore what HisModel wanted me to do for the lateen peak halyard. The four (as of yet) unused blocks on the lateen will be for running the inhaul lines on the lateen sail, as shown in this diagram: http://freeshipplans.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/santa-maria.png Note the inhauls on the lateen sail. The blocks on my lateen yard are further apart, but the concept still stands. This build is absolutely eating up my supply of blocks. They gave me a hundred blocks, and i have used about two thirds of that. And i haven't even started on the sails yet, which will likely be just as many. I will have to dip considerably into my stash of Revell blocks to continue this build. Luckily, i have a considerable amount of single blocks, which is what most of them will be. All in all, there will likely be around 140 blocks in this build, maybe even more.
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Today, i made up and mounted the fore and main course yards. You would be surprised how many blocks they require: They each have six as of right now, but they will eventually have either ten our fourteen, depending on whether or not i decide to use buntlines. The leechlines are another three blocks apiece, but none are directly attached to the yard. However, those will come later. I believe leechlines would only be appropriate on the courses, but i do not know whether to add two or four on each, or if they should be installed at all. Any advice would be helpful. However, that comes later on. I belayed the lifts through the sheaves on the stanchions and up at the top of the knight: The topsail yard halyards should be interesting, and i intend to use Baker's design for at least the fore halyard. What i do NOT intend to do is what the Revell instructions say.
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@Louie da fly i saw a video of some tourist handling a Blue Ringed Octopus, and i freaked out. Miracle they weren't bit. I would rather stay far away from any country with spiders bigger than my face. If i remember correctly, an episode of Peppa Pig was banned in Australia for telling kids not to be afraid of spiders. Because in Australia, a lot of them can kill you.
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Yeah, i know you're upside down. Is it Spider Season yet? What's the biggest monstrosity you've ever seen? James Cook must've been horrified. I guess they made it a penal colony for a reason.
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When not used, the spritsail yard was hauled into the beakhead of the ship and stored parallel to the bowsprit on the port side (where the bowsprit wasn't). You can see this if you go to Baker's Pelican build. In order to facilitate this, i had to not only make a halyard tackle but also an inhaul, as well as a parrel that could be adjusted to allow the spritsail yard to come off the bowsprit. First, i made a thimble: I then attached a line to the other side of the center of the yard, looped it around the bowsprit, through the thimble, and belayed it on the beakhead pins: Today, i kicked back off by making the lifts and braces for the spritsail yard: Revell wanted me to do the braces differently: Of all the galleons i've seen, i have never seen the braces rigged like this. I am pretty sure it's inaccurate, plus it doesn't look that great. So, i went with my gut, and rigged them the way i know i should. This spritsail is in use, however, i wanted to have all the rigging there to stow it if need be. I will be using the spritsail, which is why i have left two pins empty on the beak. The spritsail sheets will belay to the cleats inside the forecastle, i have no idea why they want to belay them on a pin.
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@Louie da fly I do not own the book, but i have heard of it and have at many points considered buying it. I still might buy it. I do know it's basically the Holy Bible for people building the Soleil Royal. I think very highly of the book, what little i know about it. Is there anything i should know in particular? how good are the diagrams?
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This week, i finished the topmast standing rigging. First, i did the research on a line whose purpose was to lower the topmasts on the ship. You see these appearing a lot more commonplace on later ships, especialluy in the 17th century. However, i elected to include them on the Golden Hinde. The line falls down to a block placed behind one of the knightheads, and belays to the knighthead. I did not want to use up a pin for these lines. Then, i did the rest of the standing rigging, including the backstays and the forestays for both masts. I also mounted blocks on the bowsprit. In the next post, i will start rigging the spritsail. I intend to avoid gluing the spritsail to the mast, instead using a parrel and several lines originating from the center of the yard. Given that Revell gave me a block specifically for use on the fore topmast stay, i don't know why they put next to no effort into the knightheads and couldn't bother to provide me with violin blocks. My other big gripe is that they molded the sheaves underneath the masttops incorrectly. I plan to get started on as accurate of a spritsail yard as i can.
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Congratulations, @woodrat! I truly do ruin everything, don't i? It'll be fun. I can be here for moral support, because that's probably all i'm good for.
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My dad served in the Air Force just after 'Nam. He was a flight mechanic for the F-111 fighter-bomber. His childhood was adventurous and full of excitement, even though he sometimes made poor decisions at the behest of his older brother. He is 60 years old. When you don't care if you die, life becomes a lot more freeing.
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You could have gotten this kit, new, on store shelves, back when inflation wasn't really a thing. I am into newer music, but the music my generation listens to makes my ears bleed. I wish i had grown up when you did. The world was younger, people still cared about each other, life was simpler, and smartphones and social media weren't a thing.
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Yep. With the temperament of an old man, doing an old man's hobby. How old are you, @Louie da fly?
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@Baker look, dude. I don't have a life. All i have most of the time is my ships, and schoolwork.
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What do you do as a job? I assume you have a family. Do you like your job?
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@Baker, have you worked on the Mary Rose lately?
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I am quite unimpressed with the dipped ratlines in this kit, the ones on the USS United States were much better quality. I guess they got better with time.
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I never knew that! is that an actual phenomenon? you'd think people would spend more time on MSW on weekends, no work or school.
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Seems people have kind of lost interest in this build, which is kind of a shame. That's because i have the biggest update yet: The lower masts' standing rigging is complete! First i began fitting the lower shrouds (dipped) onto the fore and main lower masts. Then, with much swearing and frustration, i made a mouse, and then a seize: Then, i repeated the process two more times, before completing the lower standing rigging.
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Today, i did the burton tackles on the main, and set up the pennants on the receiving blocks. In total, there will be eight tackles and sixteen blocks. I belayed the falls to the sheer-poles, because there was no other place to put them. Next update will be the completion of the burton tackles and shrouds. Might be tomorrow, might be later. Those tackles were a S.O.B. to rig, because the receiving blocks were tucked away down between the deadeyes and the hull.
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"That's what the mast is, that's what the point of the mast is..." So, i started on the masts. They are still not glued into place, but at least i started on the lower masts. I did elect to use oils, as per Kirill's advice, and i think they turned out great. The pictures did not do justice. I also practiced some rigging techniques on spare ropes. "Down with the topmast! Yare! Lower, lower! Bring her to try with th' main-course." -The Tempest, Shakespeare, 1610 Clearly, in 1610, which is near-contemporary with the Golden Hinde (a new ship when she set sail) galleons had a method of lowering the topmasts, just like with ships of later dates. Thus, and this is important, my task for you guys is to find me a diagram of a topmast-lowering tackle or rig.
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@Baker I would request you stick around for the rigging. You will surely be needed. Your Pelican model will be my primary source for the rigging. It's the dead of winter, so you probably aren't doing much work on the Mary Rose anyways. I guess this might give you your model ship fix!
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With as dangerous as 15th century seas were, they probably would not leave port without it, and if it were damaged, it would not be sailing at all. Then, you would have to completely replace the main and mizzen sails with furled ones! That would be no fun. I also do not see a need for the mainstay to be redone, after seeing your photo. I think making a foremast and its rigging would be a fun opportunity to pass the time and improve your model. I just wish i could even approach your level of skill. I can't wait to see it! I probably would not be of any help, but if you need me, i will surely be here.
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Apologies for the slow updates, as i have been very tired over the past few days. Today, i installed the channels/deadeyes, and the main knighthead. Honestly, i was really unimpressed by the quality of the knightheads, especially with the context of having seen the Heller Soleil Royal. I watched Popeye2Sea do his Soleil Royal, and he had to offset the fore knighthead because if he didn't, it would be obstructed by the previous stay. I am glad Revell did not make the same error, saving me some time and sanity. Here is the knighthead and halyard: And on the ship: Now i did the best i could without buying card and making my own, and i would say i did about as well as anyone else could. But at least it isn't THIS: Yeah, that's right, THIS is what Revell wanted me to do. Anyways, the deadeyes were a royal pain because they didn't want to sit flush with the hull, they kept breaking in places, and they didn't want to align correctly; typical Revell deadeyes. I have a treat for you guys after you digest this post, maybe even later tonight: i have started on the masts! See ya 'round.
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Yeah. Might do that. The immediate effects of the eye-dilating test subsided quicker than i thought they would, so i went down to the model shop and got some supplies. However, the whole "light sensitivity" effect stayed longer than it should have. I have brilliant blue eyes, so i am already very light-sensitive by default. However, i think this has also subsided by now. I might post an update later. I am starting the masts! yay!
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