Ferrus Manus
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Here, we get a good look at the interior of the Mataro Carrack. I would like to bring your eyes to two points on the ship: The interior bulwarks and the exterior planking. First, the interior bulwarks. The interior walls of the ship are, in fact, fully planked. However, the exterior top rails on the sterncastle are long gone. However, this damage to the ship may be a good thing, as it allows us to see into the walls to have a look at the framing. The frames on the Senora Fielden, at the point where they rise from the main deck level, are to be a quarter inch thick by the half-inch thickness of the frames. I may or may not fair the thickness of the frames down as they go up toward the top, to increase stability and reduce weight. I chose the half-inch thickness for two reasons. 1: to increase the sturdiness and stability of the relatively large model. 2: to provide a large area on which to glue the ends of the strakes. The other issue of concern is how the exterior of the ship comes together. As you can see, as opposed to Woodrat's Venetian Carrack, the spaces between the deck beams are planks. Also, the scuppers are not hidden within the deck beams, but rather adjacent and slightly raised, to slightly above the deck level. The raising of the deck will be, once again, a quarter inch at the deck's widest point. This will decrease proportionally as the deck narrows. -
@woodrat @Snug Harbor Johnny The log is now in the section for scratch projects up to 1500, so the log's regular attendees know where to find it.
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I just edited the name to what i wanted the log to be called. Well, this does make it more efficient so that when wood does eventually get cut, i do not have to make another log or transfer all the research over. After all, Woodrat started cutting wood on page 2 of his own log. Personally, i think the point at which building actually commences is more of a page 3 or 4 thing for this one.
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This is going to be a POB model, so i think legos will do for ensuring the straightness of the frames. I will, in fact, need something larger than a soldering iron to bend planks, this is a 1/24th scale model (yes, i changed the scale to more closely fit my desired length).
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After looking at both the academic article and the posted log about carrack wrecks, i made a tail frame. The tail frame has the same scale and measurements as the master frame. I hauled down the futtocks and the measurements involved were relatively simple, much more so than that of the master frame. Eventually, i will have to transition from the master frame design to that of the tail frame, or simply make the master frame measurements more and more subtle as we go up and down the length of the ship. The tail frame design will be used for both frames, with each frame in between being doubled and used on the opposite side of the master frame.
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The scale of this build is to be around 1/24, and around 3 feet in length. For the keel and frames, i can foresee needing a planer of some sort, a band saw, and a sanding block.
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I already have several measuring instruments which i used to create several "proof of concept" plans. Are any of the above tools unnecessary?
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I have just received a list of tools that will be needed for the construction of a wooden scratch-built ship. My friend from church is an actual carpenter, and his name is Don. The tools he listed were as follows: A fine tooth pull saw A miter box to use with the saw A coping saw for cutting curves A set of wood files, both flat and round, of various sizes A set of spring clamps A sanding block A set of ratcheting clamps A mini trim plane for the planing of wood A hand screw clamp A portable vice A set of small wood chisels Many of these tools already exist in my garage, i would just have to dig them out as they have not seen the light of day in a long time. Other things, like a miter box and chisels, i will have to source from any number of hardware stores. My question to the shipwrights here is, are there any tools in this list i will not need? are there any other ship-specific tools not listed that i should invest in?
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I do recognize this to be true on many levels. I am loosely basing this ship off the Mataro nave, and i am using the carracks of Vittore Carpaccio as a reliable reference. However, it is true that we have no extant paintings or shipwrecks that depict exactly what the Mataro was. Like you, i am doing my very best to make a ship as accurately as possible with what little information exists. You are of much use to me, providing invaluable resources and ideas. Please, stay in my way, at least as much as you can. We are in this together, and you are much more knowledgeable in relation to my favorite type of ship than i am. You are the only thing between me and any number of fatal errors. The Spanish Nave "Senora Fielden" requires your continued assistance if it is to become a real thing.
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@woodrat @Louie da fly I designed a relatively convincing keel, sternpost, and two different designs for a stempost. I am thinking i will likely lean towards the larger of the two stemposts, as the actual Mataro carrack has a relatively large stempost. I have not yet figured out how i want to go about achieving the sheer on the deck. This will determine the sheer on the forecastle, and thus the arc of the stempost semicircle. First, i will have to extend the line that is three inches above the bottom of the keel forward to cut off the arc of the stempost. We will then use the ends of this line as they relate to the keel as the tops of the sheer. The base of the sheer will be a distance, likely half a centimeter, under the middle of the line. The sheer will be extended forward to the outermost part of the stempost, thus creating a convincing sheer. The ribbands will do most of the work between the tail frames and stem/stern for me.
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I looked at the part where he designs those timbers. A design is shown, but the question that remains is how he got to the conclusions he did, and how i should get to the same, or different conclusions as well.
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Another question for the experts: when designing a sternpost and stempost, what angles and circles would be used, and how would one use them? I am at a loss as to how to mathematically design a stem and stern post. Should i do it by eye, on paper, or should i use the shipwright's mathematical approach?
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I have a theory about the sheer on the Mataro Carrack: I believe the shipwright used the Mezza Lune incorrectly. The Master Shipwright is supposed to have the bottom of the sheer at the master frame, and work outwards to the tail frames using the Mezza Lune. I believe the shipwright in charge of the Mataro erroneously put the bottom of the sheer at a tail frame, due to the fact that it's about 2/3 down the line of the ship's hull. I think i might just calculate the sheer by using the Mezza Lune in relation to the bow and stern posts. This would mean a perfectly geometric sheer, without the need for unnecessary ribbands.
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I did explain that the proportions in the first modern artwork seemed wrong, as the ship would have been shorter and a sheer would be present. The artist makes the error of assuming carracks have the same general proportions of small ships in the 18th century. Note the small forecastle and ridiculously elongated midships/sterncastle half-deck.
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I know for a fact that the "classic" age of sail mindset invades and permeates modern research and discussions on medieval ships. I do believe Carpaccio is one of, if not the best source for mediterranean carracks c. 1450-1475-ish.
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If @Louie da fly had not already compiled this information and did so just for this project, my thanks are immeasurable and i am greatly appreciative. Had he already compiled this beforehand, he is both a madman and a genius, and i know for a fact he helped Woodrat with his build. These extensive Pinterest archives may have been a product of his assistance to the Venetian Carrack build. In any case, i have them now and i am greatly impressed. Most of the photos thereof are of contemporary (or hear-contemporary) depictions of proto-carracks and carracks alike.
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This is a modern interpretation of what the Mataro Carrack likely looked like, were it a real ship. Whereas i intend to build a stockier ship (although not unrealistically fat like the Mataro Model itself) which will have one mast and a somewhat shorter midships, the profile build of my model shall look somewhat like that of the Mataro ship. One thing this model fails to show is the sometimes ridiculous sheer of the ships' forecastles. Normally i would attribute this to medieval artists' lack of perspective, it seems like almost every contemporary depiction of carracks have a forecastle that looks somewhat like this: As you can see, all of the carracks (or "proto-carracks" as Steven refers to them) have quite extreme sheers, especially at the forecastles. This is likely accurate to reality, or at least only very slightly exaggerated by medieval artists. We know this because the Mataro Carrack tells a similar story: This rendition shows a profile view relatively accurate to the real model. However, the model itself is very fat and round, in direct contrast to the relatively realistic aft view depicted in the second illustration. The only thing i believe could be more accurate is if the half-deck walls at the aft were at least perfectly vertical, if not having a slight tumblehome. This was necessary to increase the stability of the ship. The aft view also omits the aft transversal timber, that supports the entirety of the upper works of the ship. Unlike Woodrat's ship, this is a Spanish carrack. The Venetian carrack had a perfectly level main deck in relation to the keel, with no sheer. Only the forecastle had any considerable sheer, and not nearly to the degree of the Spanish ships. I am not qualified to judge this, as he did all his research before and during the build. However, the Mataro carrack's sheer presents itself in the main deck. The deck timbers, which protrude through the hull, can be seen curving up at the fore and aft. The point at which the deck is perfectly level seems to be about two-thirds of the way aft of the hull. As for the aft platform, i will likely omit it and replace it with awning timbers. I may possibly do the same for the forecastle, at least aft of the bowsprit. Due to the absence of a foremast, an offset bowsprit would not be necessary.
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When you first showed the becalmed main gaff sail, i instantly thought of all the nautical paintings i had seen. The sails look absolutely magnificent, a rare "action scene" portrayed in model form. Surely, your vessel would fit perfectly into a harbor or river painting from the 19th century. On another note, that Fluyt of yours looks like it's coming along nicely! looking forward to seeing it complete.
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Feel free to participate in the conversation! techniques, advice, and comments would serve a huge purpose. Build logs are meant for everyone to enjoy, not just the builder. Anything you say will be of good use and will serve to further the progression of the build.
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Well, these images should make Kirill happy. I finally got the Antiquing Medium paint, which arrived in the mail yesterday. I applied it to the entirety of the paint job: I also drilled some sheave holes into the hull with my pin vise: I have yet to paint inside the holes. Anyway, that sums up the progress I made yesterday and today. The hull actually looks a little more like wood now.
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...guess not. Are there any other medieval carrack-building manuscripts i can view on the internet? i am sort of looking for a tome equivalent to Matthew Baker's work a century later.
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You can easily build a serving machine with spare legos or a similar interlocking system.
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@kirill4 On a fishing trip? that must be exciting! I am just glad you're too old to be drafted. You're OUR Kirill, not the Kremlin's. Eventually you'll get back home to a (hopefully) warmer city, back to your family, your house, and your wonderful Galleon. Making a model is one thing, teaching someone else to build the same model is something different.
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Oh, you will have to help me. Like always. If anything, i need to learn how to work with card.
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