Ferrus Manus
-
Posts
1,194 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
-
Where else would they put it? This is always where they put the ship's boat(s), on really any vessel in the age of sail. I believe it is in the correct place, it's just a small ship and thus a cramped area. -
🎵...All i can hope for is for me to get better, 'cause all i can take is no more...🎵 This is the first time in well over half a year that I've listened to Tears Over Beers by Modern Baseball, and i can't get it out of my head while i work on the Golden Hinde. Anyways... Today, i did some more hull and deck stuff (kevels, gunport lids, the hawse plates, the ship's boat, and the rudder). Here are the pictures: You might not know, but before this point, the counter/lower transom was simply sitting in its place, and now i have glued it. Yes, i know i have yet to do the finishing paintwork on the seam between the parts. One interesting thing about this kit is that the sternpost and rudder are all one piece (technically two, but they are simply two halves of the same construct) One interesting thing (or two, rather) are the two circular holes on either side of the sternpost. I believe they could be either freeing ports for ropes, or entry points for auxiliary steering tackle. The instructions never elaborate. Having the boat in its proper place makes me wonder how anyone got from point A to point B on this ship... no wonder they towed them in later eras when they cleared for action. My next task will be to touch up some of the paint, and likely install the aft balcony. This will add to the detail of the ship. Yes, at some point we will get to the anchor rant...
- 137 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
You see, if there was no foremast, there would be zero logic or reasoning behind the offsetting of the bowsprit and forecastle superstructure. So, bearing that in mind, a foremast would be more accurate. I highly doubt they would have knowingly and purposefully set sail without a major part of the ship. You'll have to redo the main stays, but it's all in good fun. I love an excuse to go back and revisit old projects. I couldn't find any images featuring a foremast and no yard, so i guess you'll have to add at least that. If i had found any, however, they would have been ones you had already seen.
-
You haven't derailed my thread in any way. This is all part of the deal! I was the one who brought it up, after all.
- 137 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
All the artworks shown include a foremast, that is, except the Mataro Carrack. It would make much more sense to me to add a foremast now, even if the yard isn't there, as there is a hole for the foremast and the fact that the bowsprit and forecastle timbers are offset to accommodate one.
-
Your carrack is based almost solely on contemporary sources, and in fact, i will probably end up needing to use those sources at some point in the future. When i eventually do another carrack model, i will likely use you as a source. Please. Claim accuracy. With all the contemporary sources you could find, i cannot imagine the ship being anything other than a 1-to-1 representation of a 15th century carrack.
-
Most aspects of the rigging of Carracks (my favorite type of ship) have been lost to history. You have done an excellent job of bringing them back to life. I am sure different shipwrights, regions, and nations built and rigged their carracks differently from one another. When i look for accuracy in a model of a carrack, i typically look at contemporary designs in paintings, as well as the Mataro Carrack. Weren't you going to add a foremast to your ship? what happened to that? I can't believe this. This is a Golden Hinde log, but i just can't stop bringing up carracks.
-
I gave the cannons a bronze wash to make them appear, well, bronze. In the era in which the Golden Hinde sailed, cannons would have been made of bronze. This cannon material was much more expensive, but also much safer than early iron guns.
- 137 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
This is what i meant when i said i painted the decks and bulkheads in December: I just finished applying the last coat of shade to the quarterdeck, which explains the shiny texture. It will soon dry. I believe i got the decks to look like wood, or as much like wood as possible given my current paint selection. In order to install the cannons, which are the smallest i have ever worked with, a drastic measure had to be taken: i had to build a jig. The only problem was, i didn't have the tools to make a proper jig, especially one so small. So, i used my immense skill at mickey-mousing random objects into a workable tool that performed adequately for the time it was needed. I cut a rectangular section off of the packaging for a container of plastic glue, which i had yet to throw away. Then, i punctured two holes in said cardboard with a needle. After that, i affixed a piece of upside-down painter's tape to the board with two other pieces of tape. The back piece needed to be in a specific place in relation to the holes, because this would be the guideline as to where to stick the cannon carriage. I set the jig up, and it was ready to work... This was a small gun, one of four for the upper decks. On the larger guns, the gun carriage would have been lined up against the back piece of tape. The jig worked perfectly, and this was the result: Yes, the ugly gap at the front will be hidden by the beakhead grating and forward bulkhead, as well as the forecastle deck.
- 137 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
@woodrat Why did you exclude the tack lines in the build? Nearly every (accurate) representation of a carrack i have seen includes tack lines... even the one in my profile picture!
-
I did the base coat of brown first, then painted the fields of the detail areas white, then did the detail colors. The point is, i did a base coat first, and then did the detailing.
- 137 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
FINALLY a Mary Rose build! one of my favorite carracks!
-
Got it. At some point, i will need to go to the model shop and get some powder acrylics, then i will test various viscosities of the solution.
-
I have heard of that technique before, but i have yet to try it. My paint adhesion is generally really bad, so i guess it would be very useful. I will search for powder pastels. How much water should i mix them with?
-
The method i used to get the deck to (kind of) look like wood is generously applying water-based earth-color shade paint over the deck.
-
So you paint with vodka?? So basically i need to use powdered pastel paints mixed with water or spirits, with a drop of dish soap as well. how many parts water/spirit to how many parts pastel powder? I could probably order myself some Revell powdered pastels.
-
Thank you! You have easily the best Golden Hinde model i have ever seen, and someday i would like to hold a candle to what you do. I have extensively studied your model in preparation for the rigging.
- 137 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
To be honest i don't know yet, Woodrat. However, i guarantee i will at some point. Best to have the most skilled people on site to help out the amateur (me). Also, i have a question about your carrack. How did you get the billowing sail not to fall back down to the mast via force of gravity? I did not (as i recall) see any tack lines or bowlines.
-
What oils should i use to make a "wood" effect on plastic going forward? I read and studied your galleon build log immensely. What paints should i use, and how should i apply them? Thank you for your presence on my build log. I guarantee you will be getting a lot more questions. You are easily the best model ship painter i know, and i would like to learn your technique.
-
I am using Citadel paints. The paintwork on the model meant a lot to me. I am putting all my effort into this model. I specifically wanted a model that would be a challenge to paint, and that i got. Thank you for the congratulations, it means a great deal to see people swoon over my work. Stay around! I brought popcorn and chairs.
-
Lucky you! I actually brought the popcorn machine, some fine kernels, and chairs for everyone. I would like an audience willing to critique my every move, telling me what i am doing right and wrong, and willing to provide advice on how to move forward. Unlike the last build, this one is going on my shelf. I love galleons, and i bought this kit looking for a painting challenge. I will likely use the HiSModel rigging plans.
-
I use the messaging feature frequently. Also, i am aware that the voyage was sponsored by English nobles. The box of the kit tells a very detailed description of the story.
- 137 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
Yes, the voyage was royally approved and used ships in the English Navy. Drake was also in the navy as well. This model is of the ship right after she was rechristened and her figurehead remade, but before Drake had her painted in Spanish colors. Thank you for your presence!! I missed you on my last build.
- 137 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
I failed to post this earlier out of sheer laziness. I am still, to this day, less than halfway done with the hull. I wanted this to be mostly a "chill out" build after all the effort i put into the racing yacht. And that it has been, so far. Lots of people have built models of this subject, but surprisingly, no one has built this kit on this forum. I checked, and i am the first one. Earlier in December of last year, i began painting the hull, as shown: Later in December, i dry-fitted, then glued, the two hull halves and main deck together. This was a challenging deck to install, especially for a ship this small. Because of how the ship is designed, one must first glue the deck to one half of the hull, then glue the second half to the first half and the hull. I did a modification of this. I glued the hull halves together as well as put glue on the places where the deck was to go, and put the whole thing together at once. The considerable tumblehome characteristic of all galleons makes it nearly impossible to install the main deck the normal way. My progress: Afterwards, i started painting and dry-fitting parts. For a kit made in the early 60's, this kit has incredibly detailed molding. What's more, the molding has held together exceptionally well. Warping and flash is almost nonexistent. What the Golden Hinde looked like is almost entirely up to the conjecture of nautical historians. While some kits include ornamentation of a deer and the coats of arms of Drake and his sponsors, this kit instead shows the English coat of arms. With the Golden Hinde entirely lost to history, we will never truly know. I painted the other hull pieces and the front bulkhead as well. The only fitting problem is going to be getting the foreward grating to fit properly onto the beakhead. However, that is a problem or another day. Would someone please direct Woodrat and Kirill4 to this log? their help would be immensely valuable.
- 137 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Golden Hinde
- Revell
- (and 2 more)
-
Very nice USS New Mexico build.
Our Emblem ®
