Wawona59

Nice work so far! I'll be following along and hope to see more of your work on this project. I have a Nieuport28 in my stash. It's the 1:16 Model Airways kit. I'll get to it someday after I get my current projects finished and delivered to the recipients.

Welcome to Model Ship World Jackson. What an interesting philosophical question. I was introduced to building models by my dad over 60 years ago. He could take a box of balsa sticks and some tissue paper and make something that could fly. Later, he showed me how to build balsa and tissue models. I was hooked. I've been fascinated by history from a young age. All of the models that I've built were of real subjects that I would research with the help of a librarian. When my dad got a job at Boeing in the mid-60's we moved to Seattle, where I became interested in aviation history (anything built by Boeing at that time) and maritime history. I visited the Lumber Schnoor Wawona in 1966 and I was hooked on Sailing ships. Ships have affected our daily lives in the past and still do today. Ships transport the food we eat, clothes we wear, goods we buy, etc. etc. and also transport the goods we produce to other countries. They help protect our country's interests in times of war or conflict. They can take us to destinations we've never been to. They have been vital throughout history for economic growth and exploration. So, why do I build models? 1. Keeping in touch with history. Every model I build is of a subject that I research. I have a couple of models on permanent display at the Seattle Museum of Flight. These required considerable to get correct for a museum display. I have several memorable projects I've built over the years. I've given several of my models away to kids who expressed in interest in the history of the model. My signature below includes models involving Seattle maritime history that are on my short-term build list. 2. Satisfaction and sense of achievement. I never build anything just "out of the box". Most of my models require a lot of scratch building. It's a pleasure working with my hands and using my brain to create something unique. 3. Pleasure working with wood. All of my ship models are made out of wood primarily using hand tools. It's truly a pleasure working a clear piece of hardwood with a newly sharpened hand plane or chisel. 4. Relaxation. Modeling is mental therapy for me. When I turn on some classical music (Baroque) and work on a model the problems and stress of the day seem to fade away, at least temporarily. Looking forward to reading your thesis when you are finished. WELCOME ABOARD!

I built the 1/48 Roden N28 in 2018 as part of a WW1 centennial display at the Seattle Museum of Flight. One feature of the Roden kit that I found interesting that I really liked was that the cockpit is built outside of the fuselage and then carefully slid in place through the front before the engine and cowling are installed. The N28 is one of my favorite WW1 aircraft due to its sleek lines and that it was the first fighter employed by the American Expeditionary Force. I think you will enjoy this build.

I second Chuck's recommendation on beech instead of oak. Beech is a tight grained hardwood that takes stain well and is easy to work with. Oak is too course in my opinion for model work. A good source for beech is popsicle sticks. Save the sticks after you've enjoyed your ice cream bar.

I bought all three of their tools, slicer, repeater and sander. These are high quality tools. The slicer is my go-to tool for cutting strip wood and results in a very clean cut. The repeater is useful when cutting strip wood to the same length. However, similar results can be achieved by simply clamping a piece of scrap wood to the fence and table. Granted, these are expensive tools, but the pleasure using them far outweighs the investment. After using these tools for about a year now, the initial sticker-shock price was soon forgotten. Highly recommended!!

Nicely done! Great workmanship. The green and white scheme really pops! I must admit, after reading several build logs such as yours, I'm starting to develop an affinity for oar-powered small craft. What's next on the horizon?

Mike, Beautiful work on the canoe. Cedar strip canoes are popular here in the wet Pacific NW. What kind of finish are you planning for her? Clear WOP or linseed oil perhaps? I'd like to follow along on this one. Keep up the good work. She's going to be a real "looker" when you finish.

Many thanks to all the MSW members who responded to my post. Those videos were very helpful and Dziadecaek's the diagram in post #11 is spot on for my question. I guess it really comes down to personal preference. I have a set of 8" West German dividers that I've never really used a lot. I'll start experimenting with these. Since 99% of my modeling is with hand tools (quality ones) I just like the idea of using the dividers. It comes down to' "The modeler who dies with the most hand tools, wins." LOL Thank you all for your input. It is very helpful.

Although I've only been a MSW member for a couple of years, I have a lot of respect for the work our administrators and moderators to do to keep MSW afloat. Folks like ccoyle, mtaylor, cpassoro, jhatch (my apologies to any admin that I may have missed) deserve our thanks from the general MSW membership. I'm sure being an administrator or moderator on MSW may feel akin to trying to herd cats. Please join me in recognizing them and offering a big THANK YOU to them for their efforts.

Is there any advantage of using proportional dividers for planking compared to using a tick strip and planking fan? Does anyone on MSW use proportional dividers?

When I get to it, I'd like to plank my Model Shipways Confederacy with something other than basswood. Does the Modelers' Sawmill wood package for the Winchelsea have enough wood material to plank the Model Shipways Confederacy? This might be a question for Chuck.

Beautiful Chesapeake Flattie halvoric. I built this model last year as a present for a friend. I found this to be a very fun and enjoyable build with lots of opportunities to make the model your own. You did a lot more on the masts and rigging than I did. It looks like it was well worth the effort. Hope to see more of your work on MSW. Do you have any thoughts for what's next on the agenda? I'm partial to the Model Shipways kits. I think they are well engineered and enjoyable to build.

Hi Rollin-on-the-River, sounds like Credence Clearwater Revival is now on MSW. This looks like a fun build and your model came out great. These bare bones kit provide a lot of opportunity for creativity. Have you thought of adding some additional scrap strip wood under the gangplanks? This might provide just enough additional weight to deep the lines taught. I bought this kit on a whim a few years ago when our local model shop had their annual "clear the shelves for some new stuff" sale. I usually give away several models at our annual model show each February over Presidents' Day weekend. I think a kid might enjoy receiving this one. If you are interested in River Boats for inland waterways, check out Harvey Golden's build of the Olahumkee. It is impressive.

Hi Bryan, I saw your model on the Model Expo website for the Chesapeake 21. After reading your build log, I decided to build a Chesapeake 21 as a gift of appreciation for one of my doctors. I think my other two doctors will get a Pinnace out of my stash. I've had some health challenges for most of 2024 and my doctors have helped me to get back on the mend. This is a beautiful model kayak. You did a great job carving the bow and stern blocks. They look very symmetrical.

Kudos to you for starting out with the 3-kit shipwright's set. I think this is one of the best ways to begin building wooden ship models. You will always remember your first wooden model. Don't worry about the mis-glued stem or stern. If you are using PVA (Elmer's white glue or Titebond yellow glue) which I hope you are, mis-glued parts can be un-glued using isopropyl alcohol. Take your time and use a brush and eventually they will come free. There is nothing on a wooden ship model (except perhaps catching on fire) that cannot be un-done or a new part made from scrap from the kit. Consider making some sanding sticks using different grits of sandpaper. Always use a backing of some sort, I use and re-use popsicle sticks and the free paint stirring sticks from the local home improvement store. Check out the many excellent build logs on MSW. Although the instructions are well done IMHO, there are a few areas that are unclear. See how other modelers have dealt with these issues when they arise. Most importantly, enjoy the journey and don't be afraid to make this model your own. There is no rule that says that your model has to be ochre and green. I'd like to follow your build if you don't mind.

Have you made any further progress on your build? This has the makings of a fine model. This is definitely a challenge for a first model. I hope to see you continue this project to completion.

I built this kit last year as a gift for one of my doctors. I doctored it up (pun intended) by planking the deck and stern with some walnut strip wood I had from a previous project. I used cherry strip wood for the rub rails on the hull. All of the bright work was finished with linseed oil and buffed to a satin sheen. This a fun little kit. Be careful as many of the parts are quite thin. It's easy to sand trough. I think you will enjoy building this kit. She's a blank slate for adding some embellishments to make her your own.

Welcome Aboard!! I'm a retired college instructor of 30 years. I recall a few students in my class from Lithuania as well as many other students from neighboring countries. Very rewarding experience.

I second 200% the pleasure of using hand tools for my modeling. My modeling work is almost exclusively 100% hand tools. With hand tools, I can work quietly late at night without disturbing the household, especially my beloved wife of almost 40 years. (big mistake). I also feel closer to my work. If you are going to use hand tools, buy the best quality you can find and afford. I primarily use Lie Neilson, Bridge City and Veritas hand tools as well as some cherished antique Stanley planes. I also use antique Disston saws professionally sharpened. Don't waste your money on the cheap Harbor Freight planes and saws. They just don't cut it. (pun intended). I hope you will be able to experience the pleasure and pride of building something with hand tools. I wish you the best in your modelling journey.

If you try the Tameo WCT "World Campion" kits, you get better, more comprehensive color instructions, 2 sets of decals and more photoetch to build the engine and suspension (as well as more photoetch to lose). The WCT level kits are jewels if you can complete them.

Well, it's clear that the early issues you had with the keel fit are now a distant memory. Scratch building, even on kits, just seems to be part of the ship modeling game. Keep up the beautiful work.

I've been reading your build log with interest. Very clean and neat work. The multiple colors of the woods that you used seems to beg for an oil finish such as linseed oil or tung oil. Noticed that your Bounty build log somehow got into the forum for ships launched from 1900 to present. Perhaps ccoyle or one of the other MSW administrators will be able to move it for you to the proper forum for ships launched in the late 18th century. That away others will be able to find your build log a well. Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your Bounty build with us.

Welcome to Model Ship World k-slak. Beautiful work on your Bounty. Yes, Plans and Instructions for kits from a few manufacturers can be lacking. Additional research to augment inadequate kit plans and instructions. Research as well as judgment calls are part of our hobby. The research aspect is one which I find enjoyable. I've seen a variety of methods, including those on MSW, for making sails. Some modelers prefer cloth or ballooner's cloth to make sails but some cloth may be over scale. Other modelers have had success using plain old paper or silkspan. Personally, I prefer silkspan but that's just me. Tom Lauria has posted a two-part video on making sails using silkspan. Here's a link to his videos. Best wishes on your modeling journey. Welcome Aboard!

Hi Bryan, I realize that I'm late to the party, but I really enjoyed reading through your build log. I've learned a lot following your approaches to fixing mistakes. I really like how you took the time to plank the deck. The deck came out great. Many kudos to you for giving your model to supervisor, Shane. I've found that most people really appreciate receiving something that had been built us modelers instead of something bought at a store. I've given a number of small models to kids at our annual model show at the Seattle Museum of Flight. Do you have any thoughts on what your next project will be?