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Wawona59
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Everything posted by Wawona59
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Is there any advantage of using proportional dividers for planking compared to using a tick strip and planking fan? Does anyone on MSW use proportional dividers? -
When I get to it, I'd like to plank my Model Shipways Confederacy with something other than basswood. Does the Modelers' Sawmill wood package for the Winchelsea have enough wood material to plank the Model Shipways Confederacy? This might be a question for Chuck.
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Beautiful Chesapeake Flattie halvoric. I built this model last year as a present for a friend. I found this to be a very fun and enjoyable build with lots of opportunities to make the model your own. You did a lot more on the masts and rigging than I did. It looks like it was well worth the effort. Hope to see more of your work on MSW. Do you have any thoughts for what's next on the agenda? I'm partial to the Model Shipways kits. I think they are well engineered and enjoyable to build.
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- Chesapeake Bay Flattie
- Model Shipways
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Hi Rollin-on-the-River, sounds like Credence Clearwater Revival is now on MSW. This looks like a fun build and your model came out great. These bare bones kit provide a lot of opportunity for creativity. Have you thought of adding some additional scrap strip wood under the gangplanks? This might provide just enough additional weight to deep the lines taught. I bought this kit on a whim a few years ago when our local model shop had their annual "clear the shelves for some new stuff" sale. I usually give away several models at our annual model show each February over Presidents' Day weekend. I think a kid might enjoy receiving this one. If you are interested in River Boats for inland waterways, check out Harvey Golden's build of the Olahumkee. It is impressive.
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Hi Bryan, I saw your model on the Model Expo website for the Chesapeake 21. After reading your build log, I decided to build a Chesapeake 21 as a gift of appreciation for one of my doctors. I think my other two doctors will get a Pinnace out of my stash. I've had some health challenges for most of 2024 and my doctors have helped me to get back on the mend. This is a beautiful model kayak. You did a great job carving the bow and stern blocks. They look very symmetrical.
- 33 replies
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- midwest products
- kayak
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Kudos to you for starting out with the 3-kit shipwright's set. I think this is one of the best ways to begin building wooden ship models. You will always remember your first wooden model. Don't worry about the mis-glued stem or stern. If you are using PVA (Elmer's white glue or Titebond yellow glue) which I hope you are, mis-glued parts can be un-glued using isopropyl alcohol. Take your time and use a brush and eventually they will come free. There is nothing on a wooden ship model (except perhaps catching on fire) that cannot be un-done or a new part made from scrap from the kit. Consider making some sanding sticks using different grits of sandpaper. Always use a backing of some sort, I use and re-use popsicle sticks and the free paint stirring sticks from the local home improvement store. Check out the many excellent build logs on MSW. Although the instructions are well done IMHO, there are a few areas that are unclear. See how other modelers have dealt with these issues when they arise. Most importantly, enjoy the journey and don't be afraid to make this model your own. There is no rule that says that your model has to be ochre and green. I'd like to follow your build if you don't mind.
- 28 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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Have you made any further progress on your build? This has the makings of a fine model. This is definitely a challenge for a first model. I hope to see you continue this project to completion.
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I built this kit last year as a gift for one of my doctors. I doctored it up (pun intended) by planking the deck and stern with some walnut strip wood I had from a previous project. I used cherry strip wood for the rub rails on the hull. All of the bright work was finished with linseed oil and buffed to a satin sheen. This a fun little kit. Be careful as many of the parts are quite thin. It's easy to sand trough. I think you will enjoy building this kit. She's a blank slate for adding some embellishments to make her your own.
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Welcome Aboard!! I'm a retired college instructor of 30 years. I recall a few students in my class from Lithuania as well as many other students from neighboring countries. Very rewarding experience.
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Fret saw versus power saw
Wawona59 replied to Quimp Slattery's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I second 200% the pleasure of using hand tools for my modeling. My modeling work is almost exclusively 100% hand tools. With hand tools, I can work quietly late at night without disturbing the household, especially my beloved wife of almost 40 years. (big mistake). I also feel closer to my work. If you are going to use hand tools, buy the best quality you can find and afford. I primarily use Lie Neilson, Bridge City and Veritas hand tools as well as some cherished antique Stanley planes. I also use antique Disston saws professionally sharpened. Don't waste your money on the cheap Harbor Freight planes and saws. They just don't cut it. (pun intended). I hope you will be able to experience the pleasure and pride of building something with hand tools. I wish you the best in your modelling journey. -
Lotus Honda 100T by Papa - Tameo - 1/43 - METAL
Wawona59 replied to Papa's topic in Completed non-ship models
If you try the Tameo WCT "World Campion" kits, you get better, more comprehensive color instructions, 2 sets of decals and more photoetch to build the engine and suspension (as well as more photoetch to lose). The WCT level kits are jewels if you can complete them. -
Well, it's clear that the early issues you had with the keel fit are now a distant memory. Scratch building, even on kits, just seems to be part of the ship modeling game. Keep up the beautiful work.
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I've been reading your build log with interest. Very clean and neat work. The multiple colors of the woods that you used seems to beg for an oil finish such as linseed oil or tung oil. Noticed that your Bounty build log somehow got into the forum for ships launched from 1900 to present. Perhaps ccoyle or one of the other MSW administrators will be able to move it for you to the proper forum for ships launched in the late 18th century. That away others will be able to find your build log a well. Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your Bounty build with us.
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- Bounty
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Welcome to Model Ship World k-slak. Beautiful work on your Bounty. Yes, Plans and Instructions for kits from a few manufacturers can be lacking. Additional research to augment inadequate kit plans and instructions. Research as well as judgment calls are part of our hobby. The research aspect is one which I find enjoyable. I've seen a variety of methods, including those on MSW, for making sails. Some modelers prefer cloth or ballooner's cloth to make sails but some cloth may be over scale. Other modelers have had success using plain old paper or silkspan. Personally, I prefer silkspan but that's just me. Tom Lauria has posted a two-part video on making sails using silkspan. Here's a link to his videos. Best wishes on your modeling journey. Welcome Aboard!
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Hi Bryan, I realize that I'm late to the party, but I really enjoyed reading through your build log. I've learned a lot following your approaches to fixing mistakes. I really like how you took the time to plank the deck. The deck came out great. Many kudos to you for giving your model to supervisor, Shane. I've found that most people really appreciate receiving something that had been built us modelers instead of something bought at a store. I've given a number of small models to kids at our annual model show at the Seattle Museum of Flight. Do you have any thoughts on what your next project will be?
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Beautiful work on your Lobster Smack Joe! I really like the blue hull with white rub rail. The stained deck with white coamings is a real nice touch.
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Congratulations on finishing your Lobster Smack. Beautiful final result! It seems that overcoming hurdles and fixing mistakes is part of the fun and challenge of modeling. BTW, my stash of waiting projects looks a lot like yours. I bunch of model kits in blue boxes with a few Occre non-ship models added in for flavor. Well done!
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Beautiful work on your Lobster Smack Gary. The 1mm eyelets from Amazon are a wonderful tip. It's so refreshing to see one of these Lobster Smacks with a different hull color other then white. The blue hull and the light blue deck are really eye-catching. Congratulations on a fine build.
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Hi Ron. Welcome to Model Shipworld. I'd like to second what Ronald said. Get a model subject that interests you in order to maintain your motivation. The Bluenose that Snug Harbor suggested is a good one. I'm partial to Model Shipways kits and am currently working on their 21' Pinnace designed by MSW's own moderator Chuck Passaro. I'm enjoying this build although there are a couple of tricky steps IMHO. My last suggestion is the Model Shipways New Bedford Whaleboat with plans and instructions by Eric A.R. Ronneberg, Jr. The plans are outstanding, and the instruction manual is a 100+ page treatise detailing the history of the whaleboats as well as step by step instructions. When you finish the Whaleboat, you will have a unique model that is sure to garner comments from those who view it. There are several build logs on MSW for the Pinnace as well as the New Bedford Whaleboat. Both highly recommended. I wish you my best in your search for your next project. Welcome Aboard!
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Welcome to MSW irtmks, I use modeling as therapy myself. Working on a wooden ship model, or any other model for that matter, with Lute or Cello music in the background has helped me to relax. You chose a good boat kit to start with. There are several build logs on the MSW forum. You find the kit build logs on the main page of MSW. Model Shipways also offers a shipwright combo featuring the Lowell Dory and two additional progressively challenging projects. Model Shipways Shipwright Series (modelexpo-online.com) Welcome Aboard to the MSW forum. Lots of friendly folks here worldwide.
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Thank you for the information and explanation. Welfalk. Experimentation is the order of the day now. I've decided to go with the electroplating wand. I'll probably get a starter set from Casewell Plating.com. They are USA based so international shipping will not be an issue. They seem to have a wide range of electroplating wands for the hobbyist through professional. They also offer electroplating equipment as well as solutions for brass, copper, nickel and gold. The gold is a bit pricey for my needs though. If my experiments are successful, I'm probably done painting metal parts for my models. Thank you all for your help, insight and suggestions. I'm looking forward to my electroplating kit to arrive so I can start the experimenting.
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Thank you for your helpful comments Dr. PR and Wefalk. I'm planning to build the Model Trailways Allerton Steam Pumper early next year as a gift for our local fire precinct. The EMTs saved my wife's life a couple of years ago when her heat stopped beating. This will be another gesture of thanks to them. Instead of painting the brass parts with foil paint as called for in the instructions, I wanted to have a try with electroplating the brass and copper parts instead. I'll be experimenting using left over Britania metal parts I have no intention of using. Dr.PR, thank you for the link to Valerly's build log and his explanation of electoforming (electroplating). His explanation was very informative as I had never heard of electroforming before. Thanks again.
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Beautiful work on your Confederacy so far Jeff. I've got the Model Shipways kit in my stash waiting for my skills to improve. I'll be following your build with interest.
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Thank you for your input Micha. I have a couple of derelict kits (don't we all?) with some Britania parts to experiment with. It looks like a variety of metals can be used for electroplating over a base. There are also different techniques I've found as well. I'll be experimenting so I can get some repeatable results.
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I agree, experimenting is probably the best way to go. I think Britania may be a decent base as I believe it was used for silver plating. I'm going to give the copper plating with a clean penny a shot. Thank you for your comments.
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