Wawona59

Beautiful fix on the stem and keel in post #2; very craftsman like. As in this case, sometimes the fix is better than the kit part. You're doing a great job so far.

Hi Ferrus, I've been following your build and your paint job on the gold decorations. You are doing a great job on the gold painting. There are other options for doing the gold other than brush painting. There are other options for doing the gold other than brush painting. Have you considered using a metalic pen to do the gold? Several modelers I know use metalic Sharpie marking pens for detail work https://www.sharpie.com/markers/permanent-markers/sharpie-metallic-permanent-markers-fine-point/SAP_2029678.html Art supply stores also sell chrome permanent marker pens. There appear be several brands. I found some on Amazon. You could do a google search like Liquid Chrome marker pens to find more. Molotow is another brand of chrome marker pens. I've used these and highly recommend them. They offer various sized tips in gold, bronze and chrome. These are permanent alcohol based paint. Molotow Liquid Chrome Alcohol-Based Pump Marker, 2mm, 1 Each - Walmart.com Amazon.com: ZOET 3PK Gold Chrome Marker Chrome Pen | Gold Paint for Any Surface | Gold Chrome Marker Paint Pen for Repairing, Model Painting, Marking or DIY Art Projects| Permanent Liquid Mirror : Arts, Crafts & Sewing I hope this is useful to you.

Welcome to MSW Charles. There's always room for another ship modeler. Welcome Aboard!

Please hang in there. We are all overly critical of our work. I'm also in that camp as well. Even though I was not happy with the fore bulkheads of my Flying Fish, I still received numerous positive and encouraging comments from several MSW members. I have since taken back all of the bulkheads that I was not happy with and will restart my Flying Fish build log again. If you are experiencing spring back of your planks the chances are that you either did not soak them long enough or did not keep them in the plank bending form long enough. In my opinion, instead of buying another Lady Nelson kit, please consider purchasing the Model Shipways Shipwright Series kits instead. The shipwright series is offered as a combo of three kits. The combo consists of a basic Dory, followed by Pram followed by lobster ship jack. Each model in the series is progressively more challenging. You can even get the combo with a basic set of tools. I have the combo kit. The materials are high quality, the instructions are excellent with a few steps that will make you think. Model Shipways Shipwright Series (modelexpo-online.com) I strongly recommend that you consider building the Shipwright Series first. Once you've successfully completed the Shipwright Series you'll be able to finish building your Lady Nelson with confidence. I wish you the best in your ship modeling journey.

Hi Scott, You are making good progress on your Dory. Don't let mistakes discouraged you. Making mistakes and fixing them are just part of building ship models. The bevel of the planks can be confusing at first until you see what is going on. The Dory is clinker-built which means the planks overlap each other. The lower plank needs to be slightly beveled so that the next plank lies smooth and fair over it. The following diagram shows the difference between clinker built and carvel-built. The bevel can be accomplished using an emery board or sandpaper backed by a piece of scrap wood. As you progress in the ship modeling hobby, many of the Plank-on-bulkhead (POB) models you will build will be carvel-built. Take your time, visualize what you are trying to accomplish and all will be fine. Most of all, enjoy the ride; this is a hobby after all that we do for fun and relaxation. I hope this helps you.

Dan, I've been following your build log on the Pram. She's really coming along and so are you as a builder. I really like the photo of you holding the Dory, your first model. You really have a nice smile of pride holding the finished model. I'll be following along on your lobster smack model. After that you'll have graduated from the 3-part ship modeling course and will be ready to tackle another, perhaps more challenging, sailing ship kit.

The Pram is really coming along. Nice choice of colors. Did you brush paint it or use an airbrush? A while back I purchased a tub of a smaller version of those shown on post #19. I got 100 for under $30. They are okay but I prefer the spring-loaded wooden clothes pins where you can adjust the jaws to different shapes. Nice Job! I assume you will be doing the Lobster Smack.

Welcome to MSW and the world of ship modeling. There are a lot of experienced modelers, much better than myself, here on MSW. 1. Which kit should I buy? The best advice, as stated by others on this thread, is to start small and work up. I highly recommend that you start with the Model Shipways Shipwright 3 Kit Combo Series. It's listed on their catalog as MS1473 and MS1474. The difference between the two is that one of them comes with a basic set of tools, acrylic paint and glue. In fact, I recently bought this combo kit just to make sure I was giving sound advice to newbie modelers. The materials provided are of high quality. The instructions are clear. except for a couple of minor tweaks, which can easily be figured out. 2. Which tools should I buy? Although it may be tempting, you don't need to go "all out" buying tools. You don't need all of those fancy power tools and jigs, yet. Concentrate on hand tool and buy the best quality you can find. They will serve you well years down the road. Others on MSW may have additional tool advice but here is what I would start with: X-acto or similar knife with No. 11 blades 12 inch aluminum or steel straight edge Sandpaper of various grits 150-320 Razor Saw (X-acto or Zona) Needle files, round, square and half round Push pins for holding parts Small 6" square Clamps, clamps and more clamps Pin vice with set of drill bits tweezers - stainless steel of various shapes preferred mechanical pencil for marking measurements Set of calipers (vernier or dial indicating) for transferring measurements Good lighting Self-healing modeling mat I'm sure I missed a few. Hopefully, some other MSW members could provide additions to this list. Good luck with your ship modeling journey. WELCOME ABOARD!

Another beautiful and stunning model Chris. I am continually in awe with what an accomplished modeler, such as yourself, can do with just paper and a few bits of wood. I'm looking forward to following your next masterpiece.

The rivet detail really adds a lot of interest to the model. I will remember this technique when I refurbish my Boeing 307 model for an upcoming display at the Seattle Museum of Flight

Fantastic Greg! I learned a lot following your techniques for making the different sized hoops. Looks like you've got a Alberto Santos-Dumond theme going. You might enjoy the book "Wings of Madness" about Dumont and some of his projects and eccentricities, like his 8ft tall dining table so guests could dine in the sky. I'll be following your project with great interest. John

Hi Zooker, When fixing broken parts (I've had a many over the years) I always use some sort of support at the joint break. One of my favorite materials to use is small bamboo skewers. I have a package of 300 mall "appetizer skewers" I got at the local grocery store for under $1.00. These can be shaved down to the size you need in a drill using sandpaper. No need for fancy glues here either as long as your dowel repair fits the hole you've drilled and the holes are deep enough to allow for some purchase. I would probably use a pin vice to drill the holes as I feel I have more control. You can just use yellow carpenter's glue available at any hardware store but will take some time to set up and dry so a method of clamping would be needed. I like to use spring loaded clothes pins. If you want an "instant" glue joint you could use medium CA or a 2-part epoxy. Here's a link to Olha Batvarov's restoration of a model of the HMS Boreas. While not a clipper ship, it may give you some help in planning your restoration. I wish you the best with your restoration project. With it's family connection, this model is definitely worth restoring with a light hand to preserve as much as possible of the original model.

Welcome Aboard! I've got your Jupiter and No. 119 waiting for me to get to them after I finish my current projects.

Beautiful images of the Hurricane! These are better than some of the box art I've seen on other kits. Well done!

Welcome to Model Ship World Clive. Like you, my local model shop seems to be phasing out wooden ship and aircraft kits in favor of plastic. Some of the plastic kits they carry are very nice and expensive. There's just something about working with wood that appeals to me. Enjoy your journey. There are a lot of friendly and talented models on MSW. Welcome Aboard!

Hi Tony, welcome to Model Ship World. I hail from damp and wet Renton, Washington, USA about 10 miles south of Seattle. Lots of great ship modelers on this site. It seems a lot of us have "salt water in our veins". I'm glad to see that you decided to start small. I'd keep the Vanguard and Caldercraft kits for later. Another option you may consider to test the waters of wooden ship modeling is the Model Shipways Shipwrights' combo set. It consists of three successively more challenging projects; 1. A Grand Banks Dory, 2. A Norwegian Pram and finally 3. Lobster Shipjack. The kits were designed by master modeler David Antsherl and are very well done. The instructions are also very well done and provide a clear step by step guide to building the models. I recently picked the combo up to make some small Christmas gifts for friends. Check them out. Welcome Aboard!

Don't despair about your perceived mistakes. You'll find better ways to do things on your future ship models. This is a hobby after all. We build ship models, or models in general, for enjoyment. You did a good job on your hull planking by the way. Mistakes can always be fixed.

Your Niagara is really coming along nicely. Your work on the framing is very clean and crisp. That's something I need to strive for to improve. Interesting use of cross bracing between the bulkheads. Haven't seen that technique before. Reminds me of the cross bracing between the floor joists in an old house I used to live in. You're going to end up with a beautiful model that you can display proudly. Keep up the good work.

Wonderful work on the dory. Looks just like the reference photograph. I really like the figures as they really bring the model to life. I didn't know that Henry Ford was a fisherman. I guess we learn something every day. LOL

Hi Harvey, regarding your question about the decal shine. From your photos, it looks like decal "silvering". The decals may not be completely attached to the model. There may be some air underneath the decal. The model surface may not be perfectly smooth for the decals. Did you use a decal setting solution such as Micro-Sol or Micro-Set? I've had some success fixing silvering by using a pin to poke small holes in the carrier film. Then flood the decal with a setting solution to get the liquid under the decal. Micro-Sol is a stronger solution that actually melts the decal carrier film to help it conform to irregular surfaces. Micro-Set is a weaker solution. If the decal comes off, which it may, reset the decal by first wetting the surface with Micro-Set. I hope this helps to solve your decal issue. Feel free to PM me.

GREAT model and diorama Harvey. I've never seen a vessel like this that uses a fire for a light. She reminds me a little of the Mosquito fleet vessels that used to ply the waters of Puget Sound. I like your creative use of materials.

Your Red Jacket looks absolutely beautiful on the pedestals. It's amazing what skilled hands can do with a vintage solid hull kit. BTW, I think I saw your Red Jacket as an in-progress model on a video of the 41st annual Northeast Ship modelers Conference I recently saw. Looking forward to more "delicacies" from your workbench.

Brush painting, I believe, is a skill that is developed over time through trial and error. In my experience the key to a good brushed finish is to apply several thin coats of paint to let the paint level out between applications. A good quality brush, such as an artist's brush also contributes to success. If the paint applied is too thick, it won't level out properly. Are you using acrylics? I've read that some modelers use actual artists' acrylics from the tube because the pigment is ground finer. I've had good luck brushing Tamiya acrylics thinned with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Your pram is coming along nicely. Don't sweat the mistakes. They are inevitable and an opportunity to learn what does and does not work. Stay the course and enjoy the journey. Sometimes I have to remind myself that we build models for enjoyment. Carry on! Keep up the good work.

She's coming along nicely. The color variation in the deck ads interest. I agree with Rob and Snug Harbor Johnny that the bulwarks bulkhead extensions need to pared thinner in both thickness and depth. I would probably consider using a sharp chisel and pare small shavings until the desired size is achieved. As Snug Harbor Johnny says, care must be taken here as the pared down bulkhead extensions would be fragile. Adding some exterior planking at the bulwarks before paring the extensions will give some needed support. Following your build with interest. Carry on!

Welcome to MSW Marcel. Ship models are easy to get hooked on. I've loved the nautical since I was a kid in the 60's. I remember building the Revell 1/96 Constitution and Cutty Sark on a picnic table in the back yard during my summer vacations. That is until I tried to install the sails when they caught the wind. I also build aircraft which my modeling group displays at the Seattle Museum of Flight. Glad to have you aboard!