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DocRob
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Everything posted by DocRob
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Thank you Gary, that was, what I thought, the steering may work, but the suspension, hmm, there were some too loose fitting arms and these tiny cups holding the wheel, ... The under body supports will help for sure. Cheers Rob -
Thank you Gary, poco a poco, little by little is the way to go. Today, I finished painting the rims with the black hubs in front and the chrome rings. You are absolutely right, F1 cars are stuffed with lots of aggregates and structure in minimal space, always a bit delicate to get together. Was your front suspension and steering really working in the end? From the design of the parts, it seems almost impossible. Cheers Rob
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White Freightliner DD by CDW - AMT - 1:25 Scale - PLASTIC
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice work with that dinosaur of a kit. I build this or a similar truck, when I was very young. I considered building a Peterbilt 378 Long Hauler some time ago. There is a resin engine and nice PE parts available for this one, but I always shy away, when I see the Italeri label, as well as AMT. Cheers Rob -
Some progress at last. I finished the cockpit tub with the seat, fire extinguisher, and paddings and installed it into the body. The front suspension is only temporary installed and proved to be very fiddly to assemble. If it would be movable remains to be seen, but I doubt it, seeing the design. I also installed the radiators with their PE grills into their fairings. I have a lots of mishaps with this build lately, which are no fault of the kit, but mine. I airbrushed the three color front rims for the third time now, always finding some inacceptable flaws. Same with some of the firewalls and inner traverses, where the AK polished aluminum color showed some flaws, possibly a reaction with the plastic, despite being primed with gloss black. Overspraying, this time with Alclad led to the same result and I finally used Tamiya´s LP gloss aluminum, which worked. I´m not used to these kind of issues, I usually plan my approach thoroughly and do it once. Everything there´s something new, even with what looks like routine. Cheers Rob
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Thanks Phil, I missed you over on LSM recently and whoosh, here you are . Progress is slowly at the moment, too many non modeling distractions, but this will change soon, hopefully. Cheers Rob
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Bentley Blower by RGL - Airfix - 1/12 - PLASTIC
DocRob replied to RGL's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice, you already have some wheels, but I post a link for wire wheels anyway. I bought wheels and wir locks from them for my 1/12 Alfa Romeo 8C 2300. unobtainium.digital Cheers Rob -
This update took a while, non the least, because Mr. Fittipaldi was a bit renitent. Actually, it was more the helmet and visor, which gave me headaches. Tamiya provides a driver figure and decals for the helmet, which wouldn´t go on wrinkle free. I used quantities of Tamiya extra strong and a hairdryer, before finally clear coating the helmet. Even more annoying was the visor. I wanted it tinted in smoke, like in real live, but equal which color and technique I used, it came always out bad. I tried AK crystal smoke and Tamiya smoke, sprayed or dipped, with misted layers or heavily applied, it never looked right. Finally, I tried my best, spraying AK crystal smoke lightly in numerous layers onto the before hand Future dipped visor and clear coated it. It still looks poor, but having stripped the visor umpteenth times, there may be no better result. The rest of the Fittipaldi figure was airbrushed and painted with Tamiya acrylics. I also tinted the clear windshield (not on the pictures) yellow, which came out better but not perfect. After a final clearcoat, it looks now very good. If somebody out there has a working technique for tinting larger clear parts evenly, pleas share it. Cheers Rob
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Lots of nice moustaches, among lots of detail. Again a dio, like a snapshot taken with a camera. Fantastic and fast work, rgl, congratulations on that beauty. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Dan, after finishing with the finish, I have to actually start building the Lotus now . Cheers Rob
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Simply stunning, I love the balanced colors a lot. Cheers Rob
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This is already clear coated and polished ubjs and I will not clear anymore over the added numbers. With fails, you have to have a story. Mine is, the numbers were changed sometimes from race to race, so maybe they weren´t applied to the highest standard. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Gary, I like the finished black color as well, the repaired numbers, hmm, they are a compromise. I didn´t dare to sand and possibly fill any further, so under certain lighting situations the bubbles are slightly visible through the decal. Cheers Rob
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Yesterday, I tested the Tamiya #8 onto my affected #6 decal for comparing the size and they fit like a glove, phew. Today was the day to rescue the finish of the Lotus. I took all my courage and cautiously sanded away the bubbles on the number decals with a fiber pen and the edge of a sanding spoon. I was eager not to destroy the underlying golden decals. It looked like this then: I then decided to polish all the body parts with Tamiya polishing compounds. This was ignited, because I watched some of the build videos of the 72D on YouTube and was shocked by the very bad surface quality of some of the paintjobs. I would not dare to show these. I used the coarse compound only on the number decals, which were sanded before and polished all the body parts with the fine- and finish compound. Lastly, I applied the Tamiya #6 decals over the old ones and despite it not looking perfect, it has to do. I´m satisfied with the finish now, with the black glistening like a Steinway grand piano and it looks even better than on the photos. Cheers Rob
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Very nice extra detailing, your Bugatti will be a beauty. Cheers Rob
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Until now, I´m pretty calm, because I have a plan, let´s hope it works. Actually, I never had these issues before, but I´m very careful with applying the first coat of clear, didn´t help here. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Gary, the reaction on the numbers is a bit weird, as they are from the same decal sheet as the gold decals. You may be right about this happening only to double layered decals, because there are smaller black backed decal on the rear wing, without this reaction. In a day or two, I will evaluate the situation and hope, I can solve it. My preferred plan is to sand the bubbles away carefully and then add the black numbers from the Tamiya decal sheet. Hopefully, they have the same size, but I will test before sanding with a spare #8 decal. Cheers Rob
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After 24 hours of curing time, I dared to look at the body parts a little closer. The Zero Paints Lacquer Clear was phenomenal to work with once again. I first sprayed a thin layer un thinned, to seal the decals, without harming them, blowing the color dry with the airbrush for faster curing and less reaction time. This layer has a bit of orange peel, but that doesn´t matter now. After about half an hour, I thinned the clear for the second coat with about 30% to 40% of leveling thinner and had a much better surface quality then before. Until now, no probs with the decals. The third and fourth coat followed after shorter periods of drying time, as I wanted them to melt into the former layers. The clear was thinned with about 55% to 60% of leveling thinner. The surface becomes almost perfect, but the black #6 decals got some tiny bubbles, a reaction with the clear coat or the thinner, unfortunately. I´m thinking about sanding the bubbles away very carefully and apply the Tamiya #6 decals onto them, which hopefully have the same size. I will check that before sanding with the #8 decal. I´m not sure, if I polish the body parts, as they look near perfect right now. I will decide that after two or three days of further curing time, before, I won´t touch the parts. Cheers Rob
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Decaling is mostly done. I have to do some touch ups and the Fittipaldi helmet. The pinstripes proved to be difficult to apply, especially around the cockpit. The front with the Texaco sign was a nightmare, because the pinstripes are separate decals, easy to guess, how fragile and difficult to arrange they were. I could have used the Tamiya decal for that, but there is a lot of carrier film all around. On the back of the cockpit, I used Tamiya´s pinstripes, which luckily have the same color. I will let dry for a day now and then clean off the water residues before clear coating. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Gentlemen, this build was a deeply satisfactory experience, demanding, but not overly difficult. @kingslug: If you ever start a MFH build, choose a F1 kit, they are easier to build by far in comparison with full bodied racers. Cheers Rob
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Muchas gracias Ken and Craig, until now, it´s smooth sailing and I hope the rest of this 1973 kit is holding up. I was a bit young to see Emo racing in the Lotus 72, but just love iconic historic racers. Cheers Rob
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After the three jars of Tamiya LP-1 have cured, I started with the decaling. The TBDecals are very good to work with, the carrier film is very thin and they can be slipped off the backing paper within seconds. Some of the stripes folded over, but none teared. I used only warm water with a drop of detergent for decaling, luckily there are not many curves to contour the decals around. The multi piece pinstripes on the body and nose were applied quite rapidly in one go, to get them aligned perfectly and symmetrical. I hope the decals are not too sensitive concerning a later clear coat to seal everything in. Cheers Rob
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Thank you, when I was a kid, I only built some Airfix kits or worse. The 1/12 Tamiya kits were too expensive for my pocket money. I built my first Tamiya 1/12 F1 kit two years ago, the Renault RE20 Turbo, a decent, but not perfect kit. The Lotus 72D is surely a very old mold, but got updated in parts. There is a PE fret included, fabric seat belts and new decals, unfortunately without the JPS-branding. How it will build up, remains to be seen, but I´m optimistic overall. I will add some hoses and wiring along other details, like aluminum funnels and metal distributors. The MFH kits I built are of a far superior quality, but I think, with a bit of love, the Lotus can be build into a nice replica. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Alan, I have developed a hate/love relation with high shine metal surfaces in modeling. They are difficult to achieve and very fragile, but very rewarding, when properly done. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Gary, I remember your great build and am on a bit of a Lotus track myself right now. Photos I have seen suggest polished aluminum for the tub, maybe not as shiny as mine. Not much will be visible, if my plan, adding the driver figure works out. The gold color of the TBDecals sheet look good and I hope they are equally good to work with. Unfortunately there is no placement guide included, which would have been very helpful. I don´t know, how you approached the upper cowl. I took the sidewalls, taped them to the floor part temporarily and then glued in the two upper parts permanently. There is no warping at all. Cheers Rob
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De nada Yves, I´m still in the learning process with car body finishes, but have established something like a working process, depending the used type of color. With the Tamiya lacquer paint, I start with a mixing ratio of about 40% to 50% of added levelling thinner. I always test spray, to see, if the paint is leveling well. The second coat got more thinner added (about 60%). It levels beautifully, but is very thin and therefore prone to color runners. It´s a bit of a struggle, but worth it in the end. I think, the better the preparation, the lesser is the sanding and polishing work in the end, which is hard to achieve in some "hidden" places, like on the wings corners. Cheers Rob
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