DocRob
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Everything posted by DocRob
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Absolutely fantastic work on your chebec, Yves. It looks as if you were building the real thing. I also really like your neat photography and thorough description, which taught me one thing, I´m not up to such a kit right now and I had my eye on La Coureur for a while, but when I feel I am, I will seek out your log as a helpful source. Cheers Rob -
Tweezers can be awkward with these rivets, but I still prefer working with them. I also have a wax pencil, which should be similar to your bees wax method. The difficult part is releasing the tiny rivet from the wax. With tweezers this is guaranteed, one way or the other . Cheers Rob
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Well no, no riveting tool for the Cobra. There are about 300 to 400 tiny rivets made from cast white metal with the kit. They have different heads and diameters, but the ones, I have to apply in heavy doses now possess a 0,5 mm shaft, which means, there need to be numerous holes drilled with a 0,6 mm diameter. To add to that, most of the holes shouldn´t be drilled through, which makes it a bit more awkward. The tiny buggers will be glued in then with CA glue, not too easy with these little thingies, sometimes hard to pick with pointed tweezers. Cheers Rob
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Phantastic news Chris, I ordered the Sphinx´s boats along with some figures immediately. Having build one boat for my DoK, I don´t feel like building three for Sphinx anymore . All the best for your health. Cheers Rob
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You nailed it Craig. I try to figure out, how far I should go with the body preps. On the outside, I will only add the PE flaps on the rear wheel wells. I don´t want to have too many obstructing parts added before painting and polishing. Shake and bake they are not, these MFH kits, but very often you wonder, how some delicate parts fall together miraculously due to clever design. I think, that´s the motivating essence of MFH kits, it´s often demanding, but you always feel the clever engineering behind all. Cheers Rob
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Preparations, preparations and no end in sight. I added the rear spoiler, which was not easy and needed a lot of sanding and bending and a bit of filling to sit right. The bonnet got some scoops and hatches and a spoiler, which is bolted on with tiny rivets. These rivets go everywhere in great numbers now, as they hold the clear parts in place and are added around the rear spoiler too. Painting will start with the interior and I added some internal framing and the rear view mirror as further preparation. I also cut my first clear vac part ever, a task that needed to be done more often in the next steps, as I plan to prepare all the panes and windshield before painting. After a lot of searching, I found some thin clear double sided adhesive tape on my island, which I intend to use, to install the clear parts. Cheers Rob
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I just stumbled over this notification on the MFH site. I don´t know, if it means, there is a chance of a re-pop, while other kits strictly say "Out Of Stock" Bah, I thought, I can resist the hype you started with 1/43 kits Craig but I´m weak. I just ordered a 1/43 Williams FW16 kit, as a test mule for my 1/12 kit. I also wiped my magnifiers Cheers Rob
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You´ll love it Craig. Having enjoyed their Crocker build immensely as my first MFH kit, I know you will have loads of fun during the build. I thought about buying this one too and maybe even do so soon. Cheers Rob
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You have to check their homepage daily, Craig. It happened to me three times now, that a kit was sold out in one or two days in the pre -release phase. The last was the Alfa Tipo 33 Stradale, announced together with the McLaren. I thought about buying it for two or three days and whoops the decision was made by others . Cheers Rob
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I have only some minutes, therefore a short answer, Craig. I never tried soldering MFH white metal parts and use only CA for construction. I feel very comfortable with Colle 21 CA, which can be found on SpotModel. I follow the information on the MFH page daily, where they announce their regular releases about one month ahead. You can pre order then or wait until the kit is released, but bear in mind, a kit can be sold out in the pre order phase. This happened with the re-release of the McLaren F1 GTR '95 kit. SpotModel obviously ordered some and they will have stock, when the kit hits their shelves. I bought the Williams FW16 limited edition on the first day of the pre order phase luckily, because it was gone minutes later. It seems, that MFH sometimes re releases older kits, but I´ve never seen them release a kit for a third time, but I stay corrected. To me prices are best directly from MFH by far. Cheers Rob
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I can only confirm your approach as well as the ultra rapid and thorough customer service by MFH. I always check all the parts after cleaning, when they are left to dry against the manual and sort them into similar kind of boxes, like you did. When I start a step, I identify all parts needed and more important all parts, which need to be added later. This is immensely important for larger steps like the chassis and the body parts, where there are subassemblies added from nearly all steps of the manual. Next I look for how the individual parts are connected and measure the diameters for drilling ALL needed holes. This, I check twice, as it is sometimes impossible to reach areas with a drill bit, when assembled. Until now, I never had issues with missing or badly casted parts, but lost some parts (my fault) of my Crocker motorcycle, which were immediately sent by MFH. When I bought a kit from them, it took no more than six days to reach my doorstep, faster than parcels even from the Spanish mainland. Cheers Rob
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Nice work with this classic. A while ago, I built the 1/350 USS Arizona from Hobby Boss. Wouldn´t it have been the Eduard boxing with tons of PE and 3D printed parts, I would have binned the kit, because the quality was absolutely terrible. I have no idea, how it compares to your Revell kit, but I can imagine the load of work necessary. Cheers Rob
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I never put together a 1/20 MFH kit, but plan to do so in near future, but 1/43 . I´ll wait for you to put on your magic, until I may venture that way. Cheers Rob
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Must have been great, Mark, sitting nearly on asphalt level and having enormous power resources sounds like fun. Cheers Rob
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Very interesting story, Jack and not an easy decision, I guess. On the other hand, as a young guy, it´s easier to invite some chicas for a ride, if there is a back seat . Cheers Rob
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Beautiful memories, Craig. One reason, I chose the Cobra Coupe was, it´s from the year, I was born and mine (CSX 2286 #9) raced more or less on my birthday. By the time, I was a kid, everything in West Berlin was about Volkswagen Golf or equally boring cars. My father was a taxi driver and always had a Mercedes, which I usually liked. I also own a 36 year old Mercedes, which is still in Berlin as our sons ride. A perfectly robust cruiser. Here on my island, I own a Jeep, which is perfectly handy for our off road pistas. Cheers Rob
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I think, MFH kits, specially of full bodied road cars take some effort to put together. The alignment of all the body pars is critical and rushing this part of the build could be fatal. Like you said Craig, MFH often offers kits of subjects, not covered by other companies and then it´s them or bust. I found a 1/8 replica from the Cobra Coupe, but it´s not a kit, but well detail and allegedly very pricey. Michel Stassart Creation - CSX 2299 Cheers Rob
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Nice little video. These sounds, I usually connect with surfing, one of my other hobbies. Unfortunately it´s the wrong type of Cobra, mine is a bit larger beast, but very inspiring anyway. Cheers Rob
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Happy New Year to everyone, may it be a good one. In my sparse hours of bench time, I continued with the body preparation of the Cobra Coupe. Dozens of holes got drilled, often not through the body, which is rather difficult. The dreaded hinges for doors and rear hatch were screwed into place. For the doors, I had to refill the holes with CA and re drill for better fit. There are only tiny 1,4 mm screws, holding in the resin body, how long, I don´t know. The doors and hatch need to be removed for painting and further assembly and I hob the threads hold up. There is a lot of sanding involved as well and every adjoined part needs to be checked and prepared. Mynext goal is to partly paint the interior and then add the body parts to the chassis, to finally check the fit. Cheers Rob
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The tiny Kittyhawk loos fantastic, Andy. Neat paintjob, especially in that small scale. Cheers Rob
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Halberstadt Cl.II by davec - Wingnut Wings - 1/32 - Plastic
DocRob replied to davec's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Looking good so far, Dave. You may try to get rid of the wrinkles with some decal softener and some applied heat afterwards. I use a hairdryer (test on a dummy part first) for that and usually have no wrinkles with Aviattic decals. The hairdryer also makes it easier to manipulate the decals around the edges. I always start with the lower side, applied with a tiny bit of overlap and then the upper side and have a good transition as a result. Cheers Rob -
Thank you for mentioning my log, Bob, but you are ahead of me with rigging. I only rigged the bowsprit so far and am afraid to do more. Thank you for reminding me of unfinished business, though . The build went so smooth and fast, but the rigging..., it will take some time and cojones to get it done with my build. I will use your fine work and experiences as a guideline then . Cheers Rob
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I hope the magnets will keep the doors and bonnet closed and aligned when finished, Craig. I will build up all the doors and hatches before painting and evaluate the fit on the chassis. There are tiny 1,4 mm screws, keeping all the hinges in place and I don´t know, how much strain to continuous disassembling they can take, as are only screwed into the resin body parts. Anyway, I permanently find places, which needs my attention during this process. Cheers Rob
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The Cobra Coupe is not forgotten and got some love lately. There is not a lot to show, but a lot of work has been done in advance to painting the body. Numerous sub assemblies has to be finished and you have to browse through the entire manual, to see, what connects to what and with which diameter the what´s need to be drilled. Alignment of doors, bonnet and rear hatch has to be taken in consideration, as well as fitting everything to the chassis. I think, this is the most critical sequence in the build and I want to do it properly. I also think about adding some 2 mm magnets to hold the closed doors and hatches secure in place. Cheers Rob
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Whew, crazy stuff. I would never set my foot into one of these boats and I´m a surfer. Right now, I´m completely broken after four days of surfing with our son with some great waves here, but the boat thing is (positively?) crazy. Cheers Rob
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