DocRob

I finished the riveting today and have to say, fitting of the rivet decals is near perfect. I ran into a bit of trouble on one of the tail booms, where two decals met on the upper and lower side. They overlapped a tiny bit, which made ugly wrinkles, which I couldn't sort out completely. I will see, what I can do about it after they are thoroughly dried. The good preparation payed off, the decals glided lightly onto the surfaces in general. Tomorrow, before spraying a new black base layer, I check for tiny bubbles, which I take out by stabbing into them with a needle. I added seat, radios and armor plate into the cockpit, before gluing the canopy in place. The Eduard masks fitted like a glove and before mounting the clear parts, there needed to be glued some parts to their inside, like the gunsight and structural bar. Last unobstructed view into the cockpit: Canopy glued in place: Cheers Rob

A nice little kit, you built there OC, I like it. Simplicity sometime sharpens the focus for other demanding projects. Airfix is releasing a new tool 1/48 kit of the Sea King soon and it looks, like my 1/72 will be left unbuild. Cheers Rob

De nada Egilman, when I write about a new technique, it's also a moment for me to reflect about it and find solutions to problems which arose. I know about the use of flat rivets for planes like the P-38. The decals only help to give the optical illusion of visible rivets and visible they are on the real thing, but more due to being not exactly the same metal, like the sheets they are holding in place. I have to see, how the rivets turn out under a coat of polished aluminum and will decide then, if it looks right to my eye. Cheers Rob

Thanks Kevin, there is some truth in what you say about the rivets . I think, it's more about looking right, than being right with the visual effect. My plan is indeed to lay another coat of gloss black onto the rivets, before I spray polished aluminum. I only hope the rivet decals withstand the Tamiya lacquer color with thinner. In any case, I will follow my old rule, first applying a very thin coat of color, dried quickly with the airbrush, to seal the decals, than a bit more to have the high shine black base. Cheers Rob

Rob the riveter has been starting to work . I followed the process, described in Info Eduard' May 2022 issue. You have to cut the decal precisely, as the carrier film is covering the whole sheet. Some parts needed to be cut out, where raised details or similar are onto the plastic part. Then the decal is pressed onto the sponge, soaked with water with some drops of detergent mixed in. A few seconds are sufficient and the decal slides off the backing sheet very easily. Placement on the model is critical, but the decals are generally forgiving, except for wrinkles, which are not so easy to remove. After placement, I used a dry sponge to press onto the decal without movement, followed by checking it and pressing more refined with a damp flat brush and rubber decal applicators. Workplace: Before (right wing underside) After (left wing underside) The photo was taken some minutes after application, recommended drying time is 24 hours. The decals with slightly raised rivets, which you can see and feel with the fingertip. In case of the Eduard rivet decals, there is no later lift off the carrier film, like I think is the case with HGW's rivets. Nearly the whole plane is covered with decal in the end and needs another base layer of very fine finishing primer, in my case again Tamiya LP gloss black. Cheers Rob

For adding the nose to the fuselage, Tamiya gives you different sets of guns (grey) which have to be glued from the inside and are in the way, while riveting and airbrushing the surface. Therefore, I used Master barrels and the Tamiya parts with cut barrels and pre drilled holes for accepting the brass barrels from the outside. Next was the base layer for the riveting. Eduard suggests using Mr. Surfacer with some gloss medium, but I went with my trusted Tamiya LP1 gloss black, thinned with about two thirds of Mr. leveling thinner. The finish is of a very high shine and should be a perfect base. Some black on black pics , I don't think, there is need for polishing. Cheers Rob

Thanks Dave and good to have you on board. Cheers Rob

The plane on the box cover is indeed the P-38 flown by Richard 'Ira' Bong and the nose art depicts his wife Marge. I was thinking about this livery for my build too, but I wanted high quality decals, to lay down perfectly onto high gloss aluminum surfaces, without the need to use any solvents other than water with a drop of detergent in it. Tamiya decals tend to be on the thick side and may have some visible parts of carrier film. The Bombshell decals are printed by Cartograph and they are complete with national markings and stencils. Cheers Rob

In a blink, nearly the whole fuselage, wing and tail boom construction were finished. If you ever asked yourself, why Tamiya brought out the extra thin cement, with this kit it shines, with perfect fitting panels and intersecting parts. The construction of the plane is a bit complicated naturally with the double tail boom construction and the numerous air intakes and large wheel bays, but following the instructions, it's an easy build, not the least due to ingenious engineering. My goal was to achieve the least spoilt surface, to have a good base for a gloss coat before applying the rivets. The wheel wells were sprayed with AK's Extreme Metal matte aluminum, followed by my own thin mix of black oil color, diluted with matte thinner. Cheers Rob

I found some pictures of 'Pudgy' and they show the high shine aluminum look, I want to replicate. It will not be easy, as there is a bit of masking required, always a risk on polished aluminum surfaces. Cheers Rob

Indeed Chris, the development from wood, canvas and string, individually put together to mass production of powerful and reliable full metal planes was very rapid. This kit represents in a way this development in kit quality. Having just finished the ancient Tamiya Renault RE20 kit, you can see a clear progress in every aspect of tooling and engineering. Cheers Rob

Thank you Yves and Mike, I will try my best, to have a shiny representation of Wicked Woman in the end. Cheers Rob

Hola fellow modelistas, on to a new project. As a short holiday is nearing, I was looking for an in between project and Tamiya's P-38 was on my list since a while. I have both, the -J and the -F version, but I want to use Eduards positive rivets on a high shine aluminum finish, so it could only be the -J. Aftermarket will be limited, I will use Quinta cockpit decals for the first time, Master brass barrels, only because I can glue them in after painting and said Eduard rivets and canopy masks. Because of the high shine aluminum finish, I'm after, I wanted good decals and a simple paintjob, to reduce masking, so no invasion stripes. I decided to use Bombshell Decals for 'Wicked Woman', which is only accentuated in gloss and matte black. The build log will be very brief, as everything fits like a glove and until now, I had no difficulties of any kind. If you are in search for the perfect kit, you possible can't come closer. The engineering is even better than with Tamiya' 1/32 Corsairs, hard to believe. If you are an engineering aficionado, you should build one of the three P-38's. I started with the cockpit, scraped detail away, to accept the Quinta decals and airbrushed the base colors, followed by some brush detail painting and a very light oil pin wash. The Quinta decals, which I used for the first time look mostly very good and were applied using water thinned PVA and CA for very small parts. The seat belts look a bit unreal and HGW's offerings are looking better, but are a pain to assemble in 1/48. The dashboard has a slight rasterized look, but only through the macro lens. In all the Quinta set is a huge time saver and easy to work with. Cheers Rob

A definite jaw dropper, what a piece of excellent craftmanship, fantastic. Cheers Rob

Thank you Mike, it was a fun and rewarding project and and will be followed by other cars and motorbike builds soon. All chrome parts were airbrushed after stripping, including the spoilers. I described my process in post #96. I was positively surprised, how good the chrome finish came out. Cheers Rob

Nice interior Craig, I really like all the detail you show. I have the same kit in my stash, so I will continue to look over your shoulder. When I inspected the sprues, I had trouble to get them back into the box. Cheers Rob

Thank you Ken, far from a master, but I'm learning constantly. When you diversify as much in modeling as I do, it's hard to reach master grades ever. To me, modelling is about self challenge and fun, I compete only with myself and am my hardest critique, but without having fun, I would surf more or do more of my other hobbies. Cheers Rob

Shunko models produces a decal set for the 72D, including the tobacco ad, not cheap, but might be a choice if yours did not age too well. Cheers Rob

I hope you got it for a good Price Gary, Tamiya re-popped them out exactly now new and I guess with Cartograph decals. I keep asking myself, If I want one. Cheers Rob

Thank you Egilman, it's a colorful addition in the display shelf. I build this one as my first large scale car, because I like it the least of my stashed ones. The engine characteristics reminds me too much of our second car, a Dacia, which has minimal power from it's engine, until the turbo kicks. A bad combination for our steep hills. I German we used to call these type on engines 'Luftpumpe' (air pump) with minimal ccm and maxed out turbo power. Cheers Rob

Thank you Gary, these large scale F1 cars are great kits, demanding due to the complexity of the originals, but not overwhelming, why not starting one? Cheers Rob

Thank you Yves, the build went mostly well, but I'm far from the detailing level of some of these car model gods. In the end, I'm a bit proud about the outcome, because it was my first large scale car and second overall. Cheers Rob

Chequered flag, yeah, after a bit more than a month, the Renault RE 20 is crossing the finish line. I added the wheels and still think about adding some chalk markings on the tyres, connected the last hoses and mounted the body onto the chassis. It was a pleasure build, with only a few letdowns, namely the huge amount of clean up and some overcomplicated subassemblies mainly around exhausts and turbo chargers. I will make some final adjustments and then step to the next project, but still have no idea, what it will be. Thanks for your support and help. Cheers Rob

Oh, I nearly forgot, the braided line you spotted, is only temporarily attached. It's one of those, where the manual shows, where it stats, but not where it goes. There are a few others which need to be addressed. Cheers Rob

Thank you Yves and Gary, the wing with the Renault and Elf decal was the worst chromed part, but good enough, not to respray it. One thing, which keeps me driving in modeling is to replicate materials and let plastic look like metals, wood, cloth or whatever. It's kind of a passion. Metal for a long time was difficult, with often grainy and unreal results. That changed with Alclad and I thought, I found the holy grail of airbrushing metal colors. I liked many aspects of the Alclad range, but the coats are not very durable and masking over them, can be nighmarish. Xtreme Metals from AK are mostly much better in this area, except Titanium, which is very fragile and naturally chrome and polished aluminum. I used a lot of the Extreme Metal colors over the last years on many projects, but never liked their high shine finishes a lot. Remembering this, I switched to Alclad for the chrome on the Renault and tested for a while on different parts. Application is the secret for metal colors and for the high shine finishes, that's even more important. I use a gloss black base, a mix of 75 % leveling thinner and 25% Tamiya LP1, which sprayed with low pressure gives a perfect gloss surface. The following Alclad was applied with the same low pressure in very light misting coats. You can see, how the hypergloss black transforms into high shine chrome. The grade of 'non-blackness' tells you, when you're done. Don't apply more, then the outcome is like on my 'Renaut Elf' upper rear wing . Some metal colors react well to 'flooding' the plastic with one heavy coat. Alclad chrome is definitely not one of these. Cheers Rob