
Srenner
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Everything posted by Srenner
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Very happy with the fat fingers and progress on the deck and cabins... there are some fiddly bits but also learning a little tips like using the dremel with a tiny burr to start holes as the drills especially anything larger than a 2mm start to wonder from where you want them. Am waiting for the rest of the brass portholes which are after market and then will glue them all down. Happy with my laminated tillet I made from some of the timber in the kit. It really has been good that they generally over supply you with timber pins eye bolt etc in the kit... means if you stuff it up it's not the end of the world.
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Topsail schooner sail plans and rigging
Srenner replied to Dr PR's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi.. just question on the main gaff topsail.. in the photo of the jolie brise looks like the sail is hooked to a wooden ring on the mast... but also in video they haul it up from deck on running lines so wondering do they go up mast and attach it later?- 104 replies
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- schooner rigging
- Topsail schooner
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Been making progress on the fiddly deck furniture... been scratch building things, the anchor chain drum, wooden tiller, cabin split in half and going to build the cabin extension which was added around 1900? Ordered some after market port holes and seeing if the store bought rope is any better then the one supplied with the kit.
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And while I consider myself a complete newbie with *real* ship building I realized I actually qualify as not new. The jolie brise is a AL model and first made using planks etc but I have done a few other ship models. Tamiya's mighty 1/300 scale Yamato with photo etch parts pack and after market decking was a big project.. unfinished as I got bored finishing all the anti aircraft detailing. A billings boat Dragon I finished and rigged was probably my first boat. She's a bit dusty now as it's hard to maintain the finish on the boats without a display cabinet. Finally the paper model Nagata, Japanese battleship. Paper modelling hard but it was fun making the pagoda bridge and the turrets and the 16inch gun barrels. I think though I'm really a wood modeller it gives me the most satisfaction.
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Things are progressing this weekend after a few days off. The deck rail was made out of mahogany in one piece on a scroll saw and finished with the Drexel and I tidied up the paint by giving it a final sanding starting at 2000 grit then 3000,5000 and finally 7000. Then I used a small brush to give it one more layer of ultragloss clear coat. It started to almost sag in some areas so I gave it a bit of a hit with the heat gum and let it skin so that the weight of the coat could sit and dry. And I worked on the rudder attachments.. was a bugger getting those little pin heads to sit in the holes with big fingers and ca glue. Only glued my fingers together once *proud face* Finally the deck rail glued on with pva and now heading into shellac coat for the deck and rail before adding the cabin etc and starting on the mast. Already tapered the bowspit using a drill a file and the hexagonal method which I learned here... thanks people
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Real knots verses what is practical for scale ships
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks... if the scale rope is slicker and not hairy the knots can really compact down verses the true scale rope.. so your saying you try and tie it so it looks good.. it doesn't need to be tight tight as the glue holds it... -
Hi it might have been a topic before but do model ship builders bother to tie, splice scale ropes in the same manner as maireners did on real ships? Plenty of books on how to make eyes in rope by splicing, the types of knots to use at different parts of the rig and on deck. Verses creating eyes by gluing rope together or using a thread and winding around? I'm interested what is the practical approach or the most used approach by modellers?
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Learned a valuable lesson about thinking about the prder of painting. I sprayed those stern posts after I had clear coated and the carrier stripped the clear coating off the back of the boat. I've had to work hard to feather the colour and clear coat back in. Have decided to do one more decent clear coat over the whole hull to finally finish . I think that's about coat 5? Been working on shaping the deck railing out of a piece of 1.5mm mahogany- its such a brittle timber when dried! But getting there
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Added the higher stern posts to come up under the railing and also to match the slope of the transom to the top of the rail. Realized I should have done this before spray and overcoats. Hoping I can smooth it and blend back to the colors below. Still looking for some light wood to make the rail instead of the mahogany supplied. Could you use basswood and a stain but the colour is still very light.
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Added the stern posts so that they higher and angled incline with the transom but realized maybe I should have done that before spray and gloss on the back. Next model I will also go for some letter stickers and then overspray so that don't have that thickness with the lettering on plastic strip. Still trying to find some lighter wood for the railing, thinking of staining basswood but hard to overcome its light shade..?!?!
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