Srenner
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Everything posted by Srenner
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Back to it after a covid break but also been researching, viewing you tube and buying a sewing machine in order to do some sails for the boat. Firstly fabric definitely has a direction it prefers to sew in without gathering. Obviously making a triangular sail there will be one direction across the preferred way and you need to pull the fabric really tight to stop it gathering and bunching. The machine is good quality second hand one so it isn't the machine... its just that you need to be mindful. Secondly the order you do things is really important and not to double back as you cannot exactly go over your original line of stitches.. it looks rubbish if you do. Thirdly hand stitching at the end can easily ruin your good work with the machine so take care. I also found the finished sail is slightly smaller than off the paper... maybe the fabric gathers a little with stitching? Anyway I have done two sails and learned alot. Moving on to the main sail gaff next
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The ratings are tough to tie.. tried so many ways of timing them but very hard to do and there is 30 ratings per side x 3 shrouds so that is 90 knots if your tying them. In the end I just ca glued them and they look tidy as. There must be a trick to it that I need to learn. Also working on the stern shrouds.. they look love more modern additions to the rig but can see the benefits of them as they will tension the lines from the bow and allow the gib to be tighter as well.
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Blocks and belaying pins and handedness
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yes pilot cutter but also modified as the rigging has been changed. I'm going off other completed build logs, pictures of the boat and also the instructions. It's quite busy in that part of the boat -
Blocks and belaying pins and handedness
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Ah thats the reason... unhelpful instructions strike again. It's not very clear how you should thread blocks etc the jolie brise AL kit. It's assumed knowledge. Thanks -
Is there a method for rigging the blocks belaying pins etc that you follow as I can't get the shrouds to lye the right way and keep it right handed... or is it left handed on port, right handed on starboard? I don't think a seaman worth his salt would cross a line like I did on the picture below.
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Rigging has started and it's fiddly work... firstly the fly tying thread 18/0 is very very fine but also strong. It's difficult to hold with you fingers it just slips through them. However it is pleasing that with that fineness you can wrap ot around and pull it very tight and there still is not much thread. The other thing is the 0.5 mm cotton. Getting it into blocks etc isn't that easy. I have taken to applying ca to the end of the thread and forming a ca anglet. Then cutting it on an angle to reduce the diameter of the thread down. Seems to work better. Across the boat there is a lot of tying to do.
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So working on the first stage of rigging and due to very helpful logs on this site decided to invest in some quality after market rope rather than the kit supplied rope 0.5mm size.. which was brown anyway and I think black looks better when teamed with lighter colour running lines. So got black 0.5 and 0.15mm cotton rope from a model in nz. Then using a tip from the site I mixed 50/50 white pva with water in a medicine bottle just a little and cut some 2m lengths of the rope. Popped them in and shook the bottle a few times then pulled it out un tangled it and hung the. From the garage door with a weight. Tip here make sure there isn't any spiders webs around.. stick really well ro the drying rope. Then left them overnight. There wasn't much fuzz to begin with but the glue helped to smooth them further also its straighter and easier to work with. Finally tried to tie my first block without much success its harder than it looks. Using some 0.15 black and the 0.5 as the shroud. So.. im purchasing some fly tying thread 18/0 black which is super low denier thread and that will almost disappear into the 0.5 and look quite slick. Also invested in some sharp fly tying scissors for $20. What about a small vise to hold the siesing or shall I just use the third pair of hands and see how I go?
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Very happy with the fat fingers and progress on the deck and cabins... there are some fiddly bits but also learning a little tips like using the dremel with a tiny burr to start holes as the drills especially anything larger than a 2mm start to wonder from where you want them. Am waiting for the rest of the brass portholes which are after market and then will glue them all down. Happy with my laminated tillet I made from some of the timber in the kit. It really has been good that they generally over supply you with timber pins eye bolt etc in the kit... means if you stuff it up it's not the end of the world.
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Topsail schooner sail plans and rigging
Srenner replied to Dr PR's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi.. just question on the main gaff topsail.. in the photo of the jolie brise looks like the sail is hooked to a wooden ring on the mast... but also in video they haul it up from deck on running lines so wondering do they go up mast and attach it later?
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- schooner rigging
- Topsail schooner
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Who would have thought making a simple stand out of pine would take all day... trying to rebate the pieces in and make it look like I have some wood skills bit still small gaps in one leg. Will need some filler
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Thanks.. I'm not overly sentimental but actually in this case it reminds me strongly of dad so I will start making enquires with dremel agent in nz Cheers
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Been making progress on the fiddly deck furniture... been scratch building things, the anchor chain drum, wooden tiller, cabin split in half and going to build the cabin extension which was added around 1900? Ordered some after market port holes and seeing if the store bought rope is any better then the one supplied with the kit.
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So the ship modelling is hard on the old tools... my late dads dremel gave up the ghost yesterday.. no warning just not switching on. I reckon its late 80s vintage when did this model start from? Replaced with new one... looks like an electric razor by Gillette. Will see how it performs.
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And while I consider myself a complete newbie with *real* ship building I realized I actually qualify as not new. The jolie brise is a AL model and first made using planks etc but I have done a few other ship models. Tamiya's mighty 1/300 scale Yamato with photo etch parts pack and after market decking was a big project.. unfinished as I got bored finishing all the anti aircraft detailing. A billings boat Dragon I finished and rigged was probably my first boat. She's a bit dusty now as it's hard to maintain the finish on the boats without a display cabinet. Finally the paper model Nagata, Japanese battleship. Paper modelling hard but it was fun making the pagoda bridge and the turrets and the 16inch gun barrels. I think though I'm really a wood modeller it gives me the most satisfaction.
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Things are progressing this weekend after a few days off. The deck rail was made out of mahogany in one piece on a scroll saw and finished with the Drexel and I tidied up the paint by giving it a final sanding starting at 2000 grit then 3000,5000 and finally 7000. Then I used a small brush to give it one more layer of ultragloss clear coat. It started to almost sag in some areas so I gave it a bit of a hit with the heat gum and let it skin so that the weight of the coat could sit and dry. And I worked on the rudder attachments.. was a bugger getting those little pin heads to sit in the holes with big fingers and ca glue. Only glued my fingers together once *proud face* Finally the deck rail glued on with pva and now heading into shellac coat for the deck and rail before adding the cabin etc and starting on the mast. Already tapered the bowspit using a drill a file and the hexagonal method which I learned here... thanks people
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Real knots verses what is practical for scale ships
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks... if the scale rope is slicker and not hairy the knots can really compact down verses the true scale rope.. so your saying you try and tie it so it looks good.. it doesn't need to be tight tight as the glue holds it... -
Hi it might have been a topic before but do model ship builders bother to tie, splice scale ropes in the same manner as maireners did on real ships? Plenty of books on how to make eyes in rope by splicing, the types of knots to use at different parts of the rig and on deck. Verses creating eyes by gluing rope together or using a thread and winding around? I'm interested what is the practical approach or the most used approach by modellers?
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Learned a valuable lesson about thinking about the prder of painting. I sprayed those stern posts after I had clear coated and the carrier stripped the clear coating off the back of the boat. I've had to work hard to feather the colour and clear coat back in. Have decided to do one more decent clear coat over the whole hull to finally finish . I think that's about coat 5? Been working on shaping the deck railing out of a piece of 1.5mm mahogany- its such a brittle timber when dried! But getting there
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Added the higher stern posts to come up under the railing and also to match the slope of the transom to the top of the rail. Realized I should have done this before spray and overcoats. Hoping I can smooth it and blend back to the colors below. Still looking for some light wood to make the rail instead of the mahogany supplied. Could you use basswood and a stain but the colour is still very light.
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Added the stern posts so that they higher and angled incline with the transom but realized maybe I should have done that before spray and gloss on the back. Next model I will also go for some letter stickers and then overspray so that don't have that thickness with the lettering on plastic strip. Still trying to find some lighter wood for the railing, thinking of staining basswood but hard to overcome its light shade..?!?!
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Bit worried about the gloss coat and the mist coat depth... wanting to do enough to sand it otherwise it could damage the colour underneath but not enough to sag or drip
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First model ship build and trying to keep it simple by copying other members model of same... figuring that it's better to get skills than make it look to pretty. I'm happy with the progress so far to paint and this is where the log starts
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