Srenner
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Hi hamilton Looking at your model of the Blandford you put the stairs in front of the foremost gun port which goes under the forecastle overhang. Is that the only way to get stairs going upto that deck into there? It seems logical - maybe they are removable stairs or fold out stairs that can be taken down in action? Did you make the forecastle smaller? I downloaded this picture from the internet today maybe some other ways to go
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Hi hamilton So your saying keep it square, the galley sticks out under the overhang of the forecastle circa 1730 design?... probably easier as the forward gun port is also partially under the forecastle deck
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Hi... is there an article on here explaining the best way to use the cotton thread between deck plank method? It just looks stronger line than the pencil edge which I tried hb graphite or should I go for charcoal pencil instead? Any help appreciated thanks
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Been working on the red ochre or dark red paint colour for the timber on the main deck sides... its a little bit of a issue... I know the traditional colour is red ochre but it's not a great colour and bright red would look better but I also liked just the timber look. I was going for a washed out colour that you could still see some of the wood grain coming through so I diluted the red ochre and dry brushed some red over the top. Changing tack now and going to try 3d print the walls under the forecastle and the quarterdeck. According to the Goodwin book it should be a straight wall for 1730 style but I like the idea of it being curved and that could be easy to do with the printer. What suits this age of ship more?
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First planking is complete, only some random sanding and filling to do. I ran into a small issue where I ran out of the strip supplied with the kit and had to purchase some from a model shop but of course it was 2mm thick instead of 1.5 so that requires more sanding in that area... and also my measurements were a bit off so I just got a bit frustrated and planked off the final parts as quickly as possible. The issue was the spacing near the bow. I was pleased with the hard bend of the timber around the foredeck. Soaked for 24 hours then used a can and bent them around and held down with some tape and a g clamp. Put in the stern timber
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Planking is well on the way to be finished... 5 planks left to go. As always your technique improves as you progress now edge bending with an iron is second nature and the planks going fairly easily. This book arrived in the mail today and also the order has gone in for the 3d printer so I'm to print alot of things the the kit provides but are crude by comparison. Of course learning to use it is a hobby in itself so that will be interesting. Have a good idea for the figurehead which replaces the boring semi naked lady... if I can design it and print it well
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Hi... I've taken the plunge today and pressed the purchase button on below. In terms of software will be Inkscape and blender before taking it to a slicer... hoping my software skills will improve alot as I plan to 3d print all the decorations for the 1720 royal navy ship, ships windows etc, figure heads that sort of thing. Exciting but also quite daunting
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So in this build I wanted to show a warts and all process for planking with a small scale ship. Yes its not pretty but the unsanded and un smoothed hull for first plank is still part of the journey. I seem to have run out of lime for this... so will have to buy some extra from a shop in christchurch. One side getting closer to closed in before sanding. A few mistakes along the way to fix up with filler. My first drop strake coming into the bow will be the only correction strake on this first planking.
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After reading and reading again the planking primers in the database and measuring with the tailors tape etc I can get my head around the bottom third of the hull with a splitter strake... seems easy and it was... The iron technique worked awesomely with just a quick dab with a paint brush dipped in water... very good will do that again. I just can't get my head around how to do the middle third... I know I need a drop strake in there but can't work out the angles and things... will do the top third next then worry about that later.
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Thanks... how did you take the cast of the rearing lion and the unicorn?
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I'm starting to prep for planking and been doing the calcs for planks based on the flow lines attached. Calculated one drop plank at the bow and one split plank at the stern. Garboard strike is in. Also this lovely book arrived from Amazon and the other book on 1719 establishment also in the mail... such awesome models including HMS Lizard, a sixth rate ship... but the decoration is a bit ott.
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Hi hamilton I have never liked the metal parts of this kit... you have inspired me to pull out those bits and replace with some 0.7mm basswood and paint red colour. My thoughts as always turn to the horrible stern piece...
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Another wet Sunday in our summer here in nz... this time a tropical cyclone coming down from the tropics... but good modelling weather again! I'm making progress with the walnut strips and lime around the gun ports. The really tricky part is the hard bends at the bow. I've tried soaking them and bending them without heat which works well with the walnut but not with the lime... on one of the photos you can see the outer fires of the timber strip has cracked... im thinking just sand it off and there could be some filler in around there. The instructions aren't very clear where the second planking goes... I think that plank will be covered with 1mm walnut but not sure. The other thing is the cutting out of the ribs from the inside to make the rail thinner.. final scale thickness will still be 500mm which is massive. I'm contemplating trying to sand it down to 400mm scale (4mm) only because the rail timber I have is 4mm.. or I could cut some new rails from mahogany I have.... need to think on that.
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Have you got your belaying plan clear ? On my jolie brise the running rigging for the gaff needed to be threaded through the same side as the belaying point and through the shrouds.
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I am loving having time this long weekend to do some modelling..... its way nicer to sit down for a good 6-8 hour session and make some good progress. The bow curved sections of the inner rail were not as hard as I thought... I soaked the pieces for a good 1 hour and carefully bent them using my fingers and a pair of pliers. I also tried the plank bender but being only 1mm thick there was a danger of cutting into them too much. Once I glued them into place with pva I used the heat gun to dry the wood out faster and also to get the glue going off faster... as it was awkward to clamp up near the bow. I have also cut one rib out from the inside to see how difficult that would be but also pretty easy with a dremel and cutting wheel and then a bit of dremel sanding and looking pretty good. Happy with that result so will continue with rest of ribs same way.
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I'm trying to work out how to bend 1.5mm mahogany strips around the bow... soaking and heat gun has been tried but it still wants to crack. You just need to be very careful when you bend it. Would a jig help or not? As a result I am building up the timber above the gunports in parts and gluing together. Later on I'm going to cut back the bulkheads from the inside and then do the final horizontal strips of mahogany on the inside. It's taking time waiting for glue to set but they say patience is a virtue.
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After screwing in a steel bracing element and gluing all the spine is not too bad... pretty straight and level. I've done all I wanted in terms of mast seating blocks and getting the bulkheads all even at the bottom so I've gone ahead and glued the deck down with some pins to hold it all together while it glues. I will just grind the heads off when I lay the decking. Painted the frames black so that when I put the hold covers on you won't see any lighter colour in there. Going to build the timber upto the rail from the outside in and then cut off the thick ribs and deck over the stumps.
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I have bigger problems right now I was working in several things.. slots for rods for display going into the spine, rebating the rabit line with the dremel, that's nerve wracking and then I stupidly leant on the spine with my elbow and snap! It broke in half... So right now it is being glued back together with blocks of wood over the break line and a ton of pva... lucky it was quite a jagged break and the bits slotted back together well... Once all the planking on and the deck glued down it will be back to a strong structure but you don't need hassles like this with a fiddly build.
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Good idea.. maybe you can even not glue them on to the frames just pin them and then build the inner timbers as the part that glue it all together then cut the ends of the frame off and close the gaps.
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Am I doing the scale conversion wrong? 2.25 inches is 56mm divided by 100 is 0.56mm ?!? Off the model plans the 4mm x 100 is 400mm which is 16 inches approx scaled up?
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Yikes I just read on in the instructions and it's very scant on the details around the area of in and around the gun ports and the railings and it took me 20 minutes to work out the diameter of the bowsprit dowel... 6mm if you want to know. And then the bowsprit won't fit in so I'm going to have to drill and ream out a space in around the bow for that lucky I haven't glued it yet. The rails are 4mm and that means I need to take the ribs very thin indeed to fit in... will think on that one.
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I plan to go 6th rate, 5th rate scratch build down to first rate all RN around 1700ish I'm only going with what the kit gives me... will look at the rail timber and scale it off that. They will be lined on the inside as well as the outside.. good catch though
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Dry fitting continues and happy with how things going. Fitted some filler blocks at the bow and still working on tweaking the pre cut pieces here and there. I'm not going to rush to glue pieces in until I'm happy with the hull lines, the fairing and cut the line the planks fit into. One question was putting a camber into the plywood veneer deck. I can see it will bend slightly so I took some slices out of the bottom side to help with bending but should I glue it down and nail it with the panel pins then remove the pins once the glue dries? Or wet the plywood bend it and then dry it again like planks of wood and then glue?
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You know what I'm pretty happy with how my blender adjusted bulkheads came out... I printed them off and cut them out of basswood first and that wasn't as satisfactory as using plywood... its pretty soft and bendy and so I printed another copy of the bulkheads and cut them out from 3mm plywood instead. I cut on the outside of the line so I can fair them in with the rest of the bulkheads and I'm happy they all line up at the bottom by the imaginary rabit line. I've been trying some bits of planking and testing the natural lines and think I can work with them as I fair it all in. The decking plywood needed some filing of the precut holes but that all fitting now too. So this is all dry fitted at the moment. Will be time soon to cut the rabit line and then do all the fairing and make sure the deck looks OK. I'm think I should put in any filler blocks I want now before doing the fairing? Need to square up bulkhead 4 so it's vertical.
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Now I'm mostly moved I have started to set up my workshop so I can start hms greyhound. I know what I need to do to fix bulkheads 9 and 10 so I will glue a paper copy onto a piece of 3mm plywood and cut them out separately before dry fitting. All the other pieces weren't cut out that exactly and needed a bit of filing to get them to fit frim the manufacturer. I can see bulkhead 11 and 12 need to move down 2mm and than I will need to bend the deck they provided into a slight dish... Do all ships decks camber and bend like a u? Because it looks like mahogany its going to be very brittle to bend and the ribs dont line up with the holes precut.
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