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Jaager

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Everything posted by Jaager

  1. I used Franklin pre-mixed Hide glue as a reversible glue. It holds too well the way I applied it. I coated both surfaces. I used tolerances that were too exact. Hide glue is a protein. Hot ethanol will denature it and have it curl into small balls. It would have been exactly what I want - if there was room for the hot ethanol to penetrate the glue joint. Hide glue is probably what the pre- 20th century models were assembled with. If your goal is a 100-200 year lifespan it should serve. The Franklin and Old Brown versions are convenient but the high percentage that is water is a worry. The glue pot hot dissolved flakes has much less water and would probably be the wise option. Offering a wide choice of critter origins for relative strength. It is however a witches brew process that takes addition time and skill before the actual wood joining step can begin. This lack of convenience is a difficult hurdle to justify when compared to just applying a bleb of Titebond II spreading it as a complete monolayer on both meeting surfaces. About Duco - it probably helps to read the directions. Totally coat both meeting areas - let dry - apply a wet layer and get together really sorta fast. It does hold better.
  2. Kurt is right. If chop is the way you wish to go Harbor Freight has a mini chop saw that will cut thru thicker stock rather than crushing the fibers It is Harbor Freight so it is not a Rolls. The table wants a layer to bring it up to the level of the bottom of the "vise". It wants to sling the off cut. You do not want your fingers as close to the blade as it would take to hold and prevent that. StewMac has a Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw that I like - cutting on the pull stroke- good.
  3. @Bob Cleek Probably unintentionally glib above - I mean a thanks response With your contribution we have three apparatus that will potentially do the same job, two with a Dremel and two and maybe three with the Foredom - StewMac has a Foredom collet hand piece with threads that match the Dremel - if the Vanda-Lay is a tread mount - no custom fit is needed. The sobering factor is that a bevel of significant length is a rare function in my experience. My take home lesson from using the StewMac as a router - with a 220 drill bit tip as a cutter - to cut a keel rabbet - a hand chisel is the better way. Run-on thinking: Something like these could work to shape the "OG" type pattern on rails if there was an easy way to fix a flat cutter blade to a central shaft. But for all of the work to develop and shape and balance the tool, , hand scraping may be just as efficient.
  4. No, I have not. I wasn't looking for the Wolf fixture either. I just thought that it might offer a possibility for someone. It is mostly to have it on the record and see what discussion came from it. I have a StewMac version that is a router - it becomes sorta like the above if rotated - but I would have to fake a fence. There are holes to mount one. Routers certainly take up a lot of pages in tool catalogs. I just have not found a need. They seem to be very fast, violent, and eager to eat more wood than is intended. I tried to use an under the table setup as an edger for my 8x4 rough, but failed to get a smooth face. My 10" tablesaw did a better job - burned a bit - but the result rides my bandsaw fence better than the sawmill face.
  5. Wrong glue. PVA - yellow carpenters glue Titebond II if a display model Titebond III if it is RC No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain. Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.
  6. The main Foredom site with this is https://www.foredom.net/product/a-wt1728-wolf-adjustable-trimmer-for-wax/ The price is in the same ballpark. I have the TX motor since it is wood for its target and torque is needed rather than speed. I have matches if I want to start a fire. The prices associated with the GRS Benchmate vise system are a bit startling.
  7. A different path - shellac. Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything. Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint. As a finish coat - it does not have build up. The more coats, the more glossy. If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me. My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer. Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.
  8. I see from picture #2 in post #25 - the idiosyncratic, bizarre, and distracting deck plank pattern - so often seen in OcCre product build logs: alternating butts on the same beam, stark contrast - highway width caulking, teacup diameter trunnels only at a butt joint - is not a misunderstanding on the part of beginning modelers? It is something that OcCre itself propagates!
  9. Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood. It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount. It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table. Probably a hammer looking for a nail, but it looks neat.
  10. On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".
  11. I see that you are a Tarheel, so Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin. I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family. What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative. Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good. What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer. It is a Maple. The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood, it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll. Lime is Tilia. It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain. A color similar to Pine. It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving. The North American member of the family Tilia, used here as a substitute is Basswood. Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy. Bass does not hold a sharp edge. The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore. The color defines its location. Sapele is another African Mahogany. It is for show. The black is something that has been dyed. I would guess it is for the wales. The grey is something that has been dyed. Probably the same species as the black. I would guess for decking. For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks, but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey. If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side, Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use. For the Acer, we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A". The European species gets a "B".
  12. It will hold any blade that has the same insert as the #11 blade has. This handle tightens using a knurled knob at the back end. There is a larger and similar handle for the large blades - the router blades and similar - not what you need for the job mentioned though. This is the one that I am discussing :
  13. I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel. A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice. When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work. An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths. With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond.
  14. The mass produced objects are not actual ship models in any meaningful perspective. They are decorator kitsch that happen to have a vague ship-like shape. You have several options for an actual ship model. Buy an actual scratch built ship model one that is one off and unique- an expensive choice - you would still be getting a real deal as far as compensation per hour . Buy a finished kit model - in the real world - not on the site companies that sell finished product - a finished model seems to be worth what was the cost of the original kit. Often, this would be something sold by the family of a deceased model builder. I am betting that if you bought a finished kit model from a website - the price would be far more than just the original kit, but if you tried to sell it - all you would receive would be what the kit sells for. It is not an investment. Buy a completed kit hull and mast and rig it yourself - something worked out 1:1 - but you would probably find that masting and rigging is much more involved than a cursory view suggests. Go to Model Expo and buy the first kit in the Model Shipways Shipwright Series - probably more rewarding and productive.
  15. Is this thread limited to this particular unbranded machine?
  16. Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch. I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.
  17. I checked the AL site. The kit description in the advertising was over the top, but it did not indicate whether the kit was of the original later 18th century ship or the present replica. For a detailed model, the ANCRE monograph contains all of the detail that should be wished for. I suggest that you fare the planking layer. With boards that wide, a lot may have to be removed to get a smooth curve. Consider what you have to be a two layer POB build. Study - really hard - on what the actual planking looked like - and the tutorials for how to plank. As a first layer, the gaps between the planks can remain as they are. Using a gap filling product will not make it a better support for an outer planking. The second layer will hide the first. The gaps will be covered over. The scantlings for planking width - I would guess that what you show would be 2-3 feet wide in scale - instead of the 6" +/- on a ship. The garboard strake may have been scribed from 12" wide stock if such was available. Getting boards even near that wide to lay flat on the surface of a curved frame - does not seem like something that could happen.
  18. I have stated before that I think that Apple is king. I would choose it over anything else for frames, beams, wales, rails. It is a dream to scrape for a decorative mold. However, I can find very little on line. What I can find is very expensive and not the dark red straight grain stock that I want. Two foot length, 8x4 heart wood that is " cheap and plentiful" is something that can only dream about. Will you provide a source? I have been thinking that Crabtree used Washington Hawthorn for a lot of his carving stock. He called it "firethorn". I believe that he was originally from the Pacific northwest. Of late, I have begun to wonder if it could have been most any species of Hawthorn that he gathered while in Washington state?
  19. I am having a difficult time imagining where I would need to make any of the three cuts in wood. For an outside shape, a sanding drum -slower, but more forgiving. A slitting/slotting blade for a thru channel A burr for short. The tip of a 220 twist drill for a rabbet- but in hind sight, I think a chisel would have been wiser - much slower - but wiser. In any case, I would want to get the wood shaving out. If doing that affects the edge or surface, I would use a different tool. For wood - slow and shallow?
  20. Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month. I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark. I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes. I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago. I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs. If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them. Thurston did not survive a generation change. Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable. I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!
  21. The max length of a single fiber is the length of the stem of the flax plant that it came from. For cotton, it is much much shorter. But a cotton fiber is much much thinner than a flax fiber. It is so much smaller than the combed flax fibers - that after being twisted into yarn and then the yarn twisted into thread - is still finer than linen yarn. Well most of what we can find now is. But cotton does not usually last a human lifetime. For its job of protecting a seed, it does not need to last all that long. About some of the other natural fibers could be investigated: I do not know what the negative factors are with wool. It is never mentioned as far as I can remember. It is maybe more labile? Maybe too thick? Is it kinked, or spiral? Silk is short lived. Even a hint of chlorine will disintegrate the beta sheet structure. Thinking of it - the cocoon that is its job only needs to last for a short time and it does not need to hold anything up. It mostly needs lateral strength as a shield - not longitudinal strength. The beta sheet has more lateral flex than an alpha helix? If I remember correctly - both wool and silk are proteins? Animals do not synthesize cellulose? Animals polymerize proteins and plants polymerize sugars? Hemp - I have never encountered hemp yarn. I suspect that the fibers could be 6-8 times longer than flax fibers. The plants are about that much different in height. Getting the fibers isolated, oriented, and processed may be more work than it is worth. I wonder if its lignin is more resistant to being fermented, or rotted than the lignin glue in flax?
  22. Just to kabitz about personal philosophy: Since you are not using linen, I think that any starting material that you can source will be a thread. The prototype rope was turned up using a single thread for each of the 3 or 4 lines being twisted At scale, using more than one will not produce something that looks like scale rope. It will be twine - sorta ugly. Over a short range, a variety of diameters can be had by using thicker starting thread. Linen comes as (picking a number to make it easier to write - I have 10 Lea to 62 Lea so I could pick any number.) 40 and 40/2 . The 40 is one 40 Lea yarn. The 40/2 is two 40 Lea yarns twisted together. The twist is tight enough to make it look like a single line. Your photo #2 pair would need to be twist into a single before it is strung like that. Your photo #3 trios would need to be actual 3 strand scale rope before you strung it. Your photo #4 quartets would need to be 4 strand scale rope as starting material . The twist of the starting material determines the rotation for the rope being made. Use the wrong rotation and the starting material unravels. I have no suggestion for a machine. I wanted a mile long stock, so I bought a Byrnes rope walk. I have not (well back when I was practicing) figured out the correct angles to get the scale twist of an actual rope. It also generates forces that break the linen yarns that are really fine - usually where a stem inclusion gets past the comb during its twist up. The Baltic stuff is even less well combed. Anything synthetic is against my personal rules, but my rules are only for me.
  23. I am going to guess out loud as to what those with experience are going to suggest: Bowsprit: I can see no way that the heel of the spar could securely rest on the deck. Cutting the long acute angle would be difficult, but mainly the forces on it would drive it aft along the deck. It probably would butt against a substantial vertical timber below the deck beams or a horizontal timber that was fixed to two vertical timbers. There would have to be caulking at the decking to avoid having the space under the forecastle be a near constant shower room. Red stripe - at first i thought that the red should be first. Then, I suspect that white over color would be more difficult than color over white, so I see white first. Mask and paint red. Then mask and paint green. If you were starting from scratch.
  24. Would cold cause the components to contract? I have a vague memory of an aerosol something that acted like liquid Nitrogen.
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