Jaager

Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood. It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount. It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table. Probably a hammer looking for a nail, but it looks neat.

On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".

I see that you are a Tarheel, so Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin. I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family. What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative. Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good. What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer. It is a Maple. The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood, it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll. Lime is Tilia. It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain. A color similar to Pine. It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving. The North American member of the family Tilia, used here as a substitute is Basswood. Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy. Bass does not hold a sharp edge. The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore. The color defines its location. Sapele is another African Mahogany. It is for show. The black is something that has been dyed. I would guess it is for the wales. The grey is something that has been dyed. Probably the same species as the black. I would guess for decking. For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks, but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey. If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side, Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use. For the Acer, we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A". The European species gets a "B".

It will hold any blade that has the same insert as the #11 blade has. This handle tightens using a knurled knob at the back end. There is a larger and similar handle for the large blades - the router blades and similar - not what you need for the job mentioned though. This is the one that I am discussing :

I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel. A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice. When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work. An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths. With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond.

The mass produced objects are not actual ship models in any meaningful perspective. They are decorator kitsch that happen to have a vague ship-like shape. You have several options for an actual ship model. Buy an actual scratch built ship model one that is one off and unique- an expensive choice - you would still be getting a real deal as far as compensation per hour . Buy a finished kit model - in the real world - not on the site companies that sell finished product - a finished model seems to be worth what was the cost of the original kit. Often, this would be something sold by the family of a deceased model builder. I am betting that if you bought a finished kit model from a website - the price would be far more than just the original kit, but if you tried to sell it - all you would receive would be what the kit sells for. It is not an investment. Buy a completed kit hull and mast and rig it yourself - something worked out 1:1 - but you would probably find that masting and rigging is much more involved than a cursory view suggests. Go to Model Expo and buy the first kit in the Model Shipways Shipwright Series - probably more rewarding and productive.

Is this thread limited to this particular unbranded machine?

Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch. I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.

I checked the AL site. The kit description in the advertising was over the top, but it did not indicate whether the kit was of the original later 18th century ship or the present replica. For a detailed model, the ANCRE monograph contains all of the detail that should be wished for. I suggest that you fare the planking layer. With boards that wide, a lot may have to be removed to get a smooth curve. Consider what you have to be a two layer POB build. Study - really hard - on what the actual planking looked like - and the tutorials for how to plank. As a first layer, the gaps between the planks can remain as they are. Using a gap filling product will not make it a better support for an outer planking. The second layer will hide the first. The gaps will be covered over. The scantlings for planking width - I would guess that what you show would be 2-3 feet wide in scale - instead of the 6" +/- on a ship. The garboard strake may have been scribed from 12" wide stock if such was available. Getting boards even near that wide to lay flat on the surface of a curved frame - does not seem like something that could happen.

I have stated before that I think that Apple is king. I would choose it over anything else for frames, beams, wales, rails. It is a dream to scrape for a decorative mold. However, I can find very little on line. What I can find is very expensive and not the dark red straight grain stock that I want. Two foot length, 8x4 heart wood that is " cheap and plentiful" is something that can only dream about. Will you provide a source? I have been thinking that Crabtree used Washington Hawthorn for a lot of his carving stock. He called it "firethorn". I believe that he was originally from the Pacific northwest. Of late, I have begun to wonder if it could have been most any species of Hawthorn that he gathered while in Washington state?

I am having a difficult time imagining where I would need to make any of the three cuts in wood. For an outside shape, a sanding drum -slower, but more forgiving. A slitting/slotting blade for a thru channel A burr for short. The tip of a 220 twist drill for a rabbet- but in hind sight, I think a chisel would have been wiser - much slower - but wiser. In any case, I would want to get the wood shaving out. If doing that affects the edge or surface, I would use a different tool. For wood - slow and shallow?

Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month. I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark. I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes. I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago. I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs. If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them. Thurston did not survive a generation change. Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable. I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!

The max length of a single fiber is the length of the stem of the flax plant that it came from. For cotton, it is much much shorter. But a cotton fiber is much much thinner than a flax fiber. It is so much smaller than the combed flax fibers - that after being twisted into yarn and then the yarn twisted into thread - is still finer than linen yarn. Well most of what we can find now is. But cotton does not usually last a human lifetime. For its job of protecting a seed, it does not need to last all that long. About some of the other natural fibers could be investigated: I do not know what the negative factors are with wool. It is never mentioned as far as I can remember. It is maybe more labile? Maybe too thick? Is it kinked, or spiral? Silk is short lived. Even a hint of chlorine will disintegrate the beta sheet structure. Thinking of it - the cocoon that is its job only needs to last for a short time and it does not need to hold anything up. It mostly needs lateral strength as a shield - not longitudinal strength. The beta sheet has more lateral flex than an alpha helix? If I remember correctly - both wool and silk are proteins? Animals do not synthesize cellulose? Animals polymerize proteins and plants polymerize sugars? Hemp - I have never encountered hemp yarn. I suspect that the fibers could be 6-8 times longer than flax fibers. The plants are about that much different in height. Getting the fibers isolated, oriented, and processed may be more work than it is worth. I wonder if its lignin is more resistant to being fermented, or rotted than the lignin glue in flax?

Just to kabitz about personal philosophy: Since you are not using linen, I think that any starting material that you can source will be a thread. The prototype rope was turned up using a single thread for each of the 3 or 4 lines being twisted At scale, using more than one will not produce something that looks like scale rope. It will be twine - sorta ugly. Over a short range, a variety of diameters can be had by using thicker starting thread. Linen comes as (picking a number to make it easier to write - I have 10 Lea to 62 Lea so I could pick any number.) 40 and 40/2 . The 40 is one 40 Lea yarn. The 40/2 is two 40 Lea yarns twisted together. The twist is tight enough to make it look like a single line. Your photo #2 pair would need to be twist into a single before it is strung like that. Your photo #3 trios would need to be actual 3 strand scale rope before you strung it. Your photo #4 quartets would need to be 4 strand scale rope as starting material . The twist of the starting material determines the rotation for the rope being made. Use the wrong rotation and the starting material unravels. I have no suggestion for a machine. I wanted a mile long stock, so I bought a Byrnes rope walk. I have not (well back when I was practicing) figured out the correct angles to get the scale twist of an actual rope. It also generates forces that break the linen yarns that are really fine - usually where a stem inclusion gets past the comb during its twist up. The Baltic stuff is even less well combed. Anything synthetic is against my personal rules, but my rules are only for me.

I am going to guess out loud as to what those with experience are going to suggest: Bowsprit: I can see no way that the heel of the spar could securely rest on the deck. Cutting the long acute angle would be difficult, but mainly the forces on it would drive it aft along the deck. It probably would butt against a substantial vertical timber below the deck beams or a horizontal timber that was fixed to two vertical timbers. There would have to be caulking at the decking to avoid having the space under the forecastle be a near constant shower room. Red stripe - at first i thought that the red should be first. Then, I suspect that white over color would be more difficult than color over white, so I see white first. Mask and paint red. Then mask and paint green. If you were starting from scratch.

Would cold cause the components to contract? I have a vague memory of an aerosol something that acted like liquid Nitrogen.

It seems like most any tree-like gymnosperm that did not have needles was called Cedar for colloquial communication. We all share have regret of - if I had only known then.... But processing and storing that much wood - let alone having the time to do it - at a time in your life when priorities were different. A recent one for me is the realization that Blue Mold infected Holly is probably more suited for our use than the snow white stock that is sold. No wood actually used in ship building was white. The infected wood looks like a sun bleached deck.

There is a blade that is used by carpet layers - single edge - about 4" long - a bit stiffer - starts out sharp. Stripper blade.

It is my postulation that it is that wood does not embrittle over time. Rather, once it is seasoned and is in equilibrium with its ambient humidity, it is its basic nature that is expressed. Cedar is just brittle. It was old when it was cut, so sitting around as processed stock for a long time is not the problem. Its structure will show the effects of it "breathing" water vapor. Wood will swell with 100% relative humidity and shrink in a Death Valley-like dry environment. Lignin bonds may fail - over time. It may crack along the grain as it moves under these stresses. As an aside, AYC is not a cedar at all, it is a sort of Cypress.

I checked my files of Blom and Emke - I partook of the same hallucinogen but recovered before I went out too far to make it back.😉 At least there are not decades of port laurels. For those, my first thought would be to carve a master. Make a negative using clay. Fill it with a wood flour-PVA mixure. guild that. I wonder if this would work for balustrades? For the free standing and relief statues, what I would try for a carving substrate: Boxwood - Buxus sempervirens - I bought a log long ago Castelo Hard Maple just to see AYC - Alaska Yellow Ceder - it is soft and buttery - probably wants short careful strokes with an exquisitely fine edge. Then there is the wood I had to harvest Dogwood (Corus florida) Apple Bradford Pear and wood that I wish I could have found Hawthorn of any variety For what you want, you have the advantage of looking in supplies of wood sold for pen turning, general turning, and bowl blanks. Almost all of it will be very high cost per volume, but your volume need is small.

The rigging tables in old books, contracts, ad plan margins are rope circumferences. It was easier to measure than diameter. Rope will crush, so even if they had developed a standard caliper, the diameter measurement would be ambiguous. We live by diameter, so pi is our friend when converting to what is needed for a model. Diameter is easy to determine at model scale. A dowel is all that is needed. A fat one works fairly easy. Place two marks around the dowel that are 1 inch apart. A tight coil of the rope between the two marks. Count the number of revolutions. That is the diameter. Internally consistent in your shop is best, so measure everything yourself. This is how you get the gauge for commercial thread. For linen - go to Etsy - enter "linen yarn" cones and be prepared for frustration. Not many want what we are after, so our stuff is at the bottom of a few thousand cycling offers. Irish or Belgian would have better QA, but I suspect that neither have the slave labor needed for economical processing. The Asian producers who have the low cost labor, seem to want to sell in shipping container size lots - if the size of what they are selling can be deciphered. Be aware that 16/2 is two 16 # not two smaller yarns that twist up to be 16. The larger the number, the smaller the yarn. When twisting up three yarns, #40 by Lea is #24 by Nm and these will make stay size rope For running rigging - the larger number "unicorns" are the target. Look up "rope walk" here. If you had the acreage, if you could find linen seed for varieties that have small diameter, long fibers in the stem, if the weather does not bring rain when it will rot the cut and field fermenting plants, getting the stems into the needed fibers and then yarn is a complex and finesse sort of operation that wants years of experience taught by older generations stretching back to infinity. gauge - old link not looking to see if it still is there: info@baltic-flax.com I suspect that hemp fibers are too thick. I am not sure that I have seen much hemp cloth. Investigate and experiment and report. old links: https://store.vavstuga.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_code=yarns-linen-lace https://www.yarn.com/categories/linen-weaving-yarn https://www.threadneedlestreet.com/ look for LONDONDERRY LINEN THREAD

I have worked a lot of Black Cherry (Prunus serotina) and it is OK for frame timbers, keel, beams etc. but I have not tried to scrape a mold pattern in it. I seems a bit soft for micro detail, but that is just an impression. I was a wood ghoul and traded cleanup labor for the small trunk of a wind downed Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium). I billotted and seasoned it and the grain is very similar, but the color is yellow green. Not something that I would leave natural. The Wood Database says that Sweet Cherry is harder. It may carve better. I think one of the many varieties of ornamental Pear (Pyrus calleryana) would work better. Near ubiquitous street planting in some places.

You do not provide your country but a search jn the USA produced the following possibilities: https://sigmfg.com/products/sig-silkspan-tissue https://brodak.com/silkspan-medium-white-only-2-sheets.html https://brodak.com/silkspan-lite-white-only-2-sheets.html https://shop.matuskataxidermy.com/products/silk-span?variant=39663254962222 and a possible substitute - low cost and a ton mole of it: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804663477441.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.3.3509mRpbmRpbIS&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=edfe09b8-85c3-4f7a-bae5-4624bd4987ee&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:edfe09b8-85c3-4f7a-bae5-4624bd4987ee,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&isseo=y&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!6.23!3.22!!!44.55!23.03!%402101fb1917063199411381635e53ae!12000030735931987!rec!US!!AB&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A

Yes. (With the caveat that narrow economy plywood, spaced at overly wide intervals, is a barely adequate support at best and man-made synthetic sheet material is heretical and probably having a short half life. I am not encouraging the actual use it any of it or anything large enough to be called a "nail".) For the first layer of planking:: drill a hole that is a # or ## smaller than the "nail" diameter in the plank while it is on work surface. For cheap ply - do nothing for the nail - it should crush internally with no adverse effect. I suspect that a nail in the middle layer(s) of cheap ply will more closely resemble a glass stirring rod in a test tube than a ten penny nail in a 2x4. A hammer may be more force than needed. For something like MDF, do a test. if it propagates the nail's compression to its surface or resists too much, drill an under size hole. If it accepts the compression, let the nail be a nail. Otherwise, drill an under size pilot hole. For MDF, if it bends the nail, drill a hole. Hold the nail in a MM 'spike insertion plier" or curved Kelly clamp. Next - thru a hole in its center - place a small square piece of wood scrap that covers the width of the plank and is about 1-2 times the plank thickness on the nail.(Hitch Chock) Push this assembly thru the hole in the plank. PVA glue the plank. PVA glue will hold metal to wood against mild resistance force. Rotational force will break it. A light weight hammer can set the nail. When the glue is set, split out the hitch chock. Nip off the nail at the plank surface. File it flush. For the show layer, I suspect that it is a thin veneer. Any sort of nail is asking for a split. The nails are way over size to nip - file -and leave on view. For both layers. a pre-bent plank that will just lay where it is wanted when oriented to gravity is a really good idea. A dry heat - a curved surface soldering rod adapter - and a rheostat to keep the heating surface's temp below a wood char or wood cook temp will melt the lignin enough to allow fiber bend and twist and then reset to hold the new shape. Wood wants to bend with the plane of the thin dimension. It will resist a bend thru the thick dimension. It is spilling that should cover a bend that is lateral to the plank. If a bend is forced against the preferred dimension in a plank, it will spend! the rest of its existence trying to twist back to its natural conformation. !Sorry for the anthropologic verbs, it is just easier to write that way.

Putting aside that many if not most of the build logs for OcCre's Beagle have nothing to do with how an actual ship's (or bark rigged brig in Beagle) decking looked or was laid. I believe that most builds, the trunnels are faux. Drill a shallow hole and fill it with a dyed glue or glue-sawdust mixture. Unless you are sophisticated about it - most of the pins that you will have to choose from will have steel as their core material. It will rust away, leave a hole where it was and have a wide black bath tube ring stain around where it was. Brass pins that are scale diameter have become almost impossible to find. I have no idea how the fad came to be, but no actual 18th or 19th century vessels had short planks with the way too numerous butts of every other strake meeting on the same beam. No vessels had trunnels, or bolts that were only at the butt joints. The actual fasteners for deck planking were essentially invisible at 1:1 scale never mind @ 1:60. The seams between each strake would be so narrow that a well placed deck @ 1:60 with just the amber of Titebond II as the seam would be close to realistic. Wood swells across the fibers. A plank does not get longer or shorter. An end to end butt - if placed as close as should be would be too tight for any caulking, would never move to need it. That class of USN vessels had rock hard yellow Pine decking that was 40 feet long and 10 inches wide. The English could not strip mine Georgia's Pine forests anymore, so their planking was probably closer to 20-30 feet long and maybe closer to 6 inches than 10 inches wide and their Baltic Pine would not turn a nail. But it was never parquet-like in its finished look..