Jaager

As a theoretical solution: Coat the "very fine" sanded varnish with shellac. A worn out Tee works for application. Then buy a small tube of white artist's oil paint. (Blick) You can use a color wheel to determine which other colors to get to get a believable "white stuff" layer shade. Dilute the pigment with mineral spirits and "boiled" Linseed oil down to as semi transparent as fits your goal. You are in GA not CA, so the organic solvents and Linseed should be in your neighborhood hardware. Oil paint for a model size surface is not like using them to coat the walls and ceiling of a closed room. I find the properties of Holly to be seductive. However, the current price per board foot that I find on line is absurdly high. To make matters worse, they are probably burning the off-white and yellow stock that we would really want.

I came across one that is 1/16" kerf and a 10: diameter, but @~$200 I am not sure it qualifies as being something real. https://www.infinitytools.com/10-laser-thin-kerf-saw-blade-1-16-kerf

Post #47 photo: What I see: A sliding block on the front. The block has two tightening screws to fix it on the horizontal scale on the front face. I know that it is almost impossible to set a sliding block on a scale exactly where it is wanted if there is a single screw - especially one with a lever arm. The act of tightening it down is a turning action that slightly moves the unit in the direction of the turn. I am thinking that the small screw is to be used first to sort of freeze the unit by being touch tight. Then the lever can be cranked down without it moving its housing. The troubling second part is that the actual fence is fixed to the sliding block by a single screw. It is a door hinge. The angle of the fence to the blade is easy to adjust - just loosen the Allen head screw. A problem is that I see no second point to stop the fence from swinging when the lateral force of the wood between the blade and the fence is stronger than what the Allen head bolt is applying. That right angle beam needs to extend beyond the back edge of the table. That overhang needs a bolt that fixes it to a backside sliding unit that has no play in how it slides along its track. The machine in the photo does not look like the blade can cut stock that is very thick. This does not appear to be a machine that can do more than thin stock ripping. Maybe it gets by because it does not cut stock thick enough to produce a serious later force. A Jim saw can rip stock that is close to one inch thick. Now, I would not use it for ripping seriously thick stock - because I have a 14" bandsaw - a machine that is designed to resaw - but I suspect that I am in a small minority that has an alternate way to resaw. The Proxxon looks to be fairly substantial. Much better than the 4" Dremel POS or an old Jarmac, never mind the Harbor Freight junk, but it pales when compared to a Jim saw. But, the probability is that a Jim saw is no longer an option - at least for a while and may never again be one.

What do you mean by "sanding sealer"? A stain or dye should be used on raw wood. A true sand-n-seal product is targeted at open pore wood. This group is generally nut wood Oak, Hickory, Willow, Pecan, Ash, Walnut - species of wood that are either not really appropriate for our uses if the wood is to be left natural. They will work as well as any if painted. But the open pores will need to be filled first. This is what a old style sand-n-seal is for. It was or is a thick lacquer with clear when dry fine solids meant to fill the pores. The wood that we should be using is closed pore and tight grained. There are no pores that need filling and a clear top coat that is thick is best avoided. If a primer is what you mean, there are much better products than a lacquer with pumice or a similar solid. The gold standard is half saturated shellac. Cut premixed 1:1 with denatured alcohol (shellac thinner/ ethanol with an emetic to avoid taxes). You can also use 1:1 diluted Tung oil (pure - not Homer's or similar) or 1:1 boiled Linseed oil. In these cases mineral spirits is the usual diluent. Shellac is ready to overcoat as soon as the alcohol evaporates. The oils will need time for polymerization before they are overcoated. All in all - shellac is just too convenient unless you are not in a hurry. If you use a dye - and for us - at this point in knowledge - I think that alcohol based dye us best - water based dye will swell the wood - our models will not sit outside in the sun and the surface is too small for any additional depth by water to be seen. Dye - then primer. If you use a traditional stain - which is really a diluted wood color shade paint - shellac would go first. The primer will make the stain/paint go farther.

If the only fault with the block is that the inner and outer faces come up short, a layer can be added to the block at both faces and they can be shaped. Using the same wood ad the planking. The species that you are using for the block body is: ? I wonder if you might have success if the main block body is a dense species of wood? Or even Tagua nuts?

I am content with the fixed 90 degrees. The complexity and error potential that comes with the tilt function does not balance with very slight need for an angled cut with what I do. No. It has been passing my notice. The tooth count on that blade has me cringing at the thought of using it to cut a shallow slot. I have a bunch of fine tooth - zero set blades that I bought over the years that can be stacked to do the same. I bought them before I knew that they are not the proper blades for ripping. Thurston and Martindale - back from when Martindale kept them in inventory. Jim was a stock recovery savior with the bushings that get 1" ID blades adapted to fit his 1/2" arbor. I am thinking that the MM system would skew the blade at a fixed off center angle. A wobble means to me that the blade would move freely along the arbor as it rotated. That might be a very bad idea to do on purpose. A loose nut on the arbor would produce that effect.

Cross cutting: deck planking and other parts where there is a max length. Grattings: the slots for the F&A boards. If you freehand the first one to its proper width and glue a guide that is the thickness of the blade to the deck of the slide that is one slot width out, each of the following slots will be that distance apart. The slot is likely to be wider than a the blade, the play of the known slot and the guide will allow for as many passes per slot as needed. If you gang more than one blade until the sum is the slot width, then the guide would be the slot width instead of the blade width since no play is wanted. A large block can be shaped to the pattern of the gun trucks. If the blade can rise high enough, the individual truck sides can be sliced off as identical clones. Just make sure that the end grain is at the front and back edges of the trucks. The width of the original plank will determine how many sides per block. Using the length of the plank allows for more but the grain orientation would be just plain wrong.

I would rub my thumb over the burn. If charcoal powder sheds from doing this, it means that that surface will not hold a glue bond. If it is just a black color - removing it is just for esthetics.

My database reports that: A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track. The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud - and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

Penn State sells a universal duplicator that might do as a one off for the limited number of round deck fixture items on a wooden ship. https://www.pennstateind.com/store/universal-duplicator.html As for a smaller lathe, it might be less costly to wait until you reach a point in a build where a lathe's function can't be replicated using a clamped drill or something. Most modelers who strictly stick to building wooden vessels will never really need a lathe - or a righteous small machinists mill. Both are necessary for working metals to make other machines, but are self-indulgent gingerbread in even a scratch builder working wood's tool kit if running economically lean.

I find that the range of possibilities for ship types to be so large that being overwhelmed into something like catatonia to be the result. My solution is to pick an era - or ship type - something to reduce the seduction of another "interesting type".- Finding a story to tell can also help. If you can do this, then you can choose a quality kit of a vessel with less complication and less breadth of complexity from within these self imposed limits. Also, having a target challenge can help get over and thru the inevitable time when your muse goes on vacation or you need a break.

Collect as much data as can be had. If you have enough for a build, decide some basic factors - Waterline or complete hull. Scale. How much detail. Materials. There are books covering waterline steel. Photo etch (PE) can be a big help in fabricating details - in replicate - that previous methods could only wish for. I have no experimental data, but what I have observed with the stability of plastic suggests that parts made using 3D printer plastic will prove to be evanescent. The properties that allow it to be so easily manipulated will be probably be the same properties that make it vulnerable to UV and 02 for continuing polymerization and embrittlement - shedding outer layers until it is a pile of powder. A hull made using clear construction Pine would be about as low cost as it gets.

For ripping - a thin blade with lots of teeth seems like a good idea, but it is not. The thicker the stock, the fewer the teeth and deeper the gullet to carry away the kerf cut. When the gullet is full, the cutting edge in front of it cannot cut. The stress and friction heat has the blade seeking the path of least resistance. If the blade is thin enough it will twist or flex or whatever the correct verb is to describe it getting out of plane.

I guess that both have fairly straight forward hulls - easy to carve from mirrored stacks of WL layers - scratch allows for any scale - Even getting adequate plans could be a challenge one lead: Anvers. Red Star Line Museum The collections of the new museum come partly from loans from the Antwerp city museums (Letterenhuis, Plantin-Moretus, MAS, etc.). But the bulk of the objects and documents, managed today by the non-profit organization Friends of the Red Star Line, were originally collected by Robert Vervoort, a retired dockworker and passionate collector of everything associated with the Red Star Line. history of the disappeared shipping company (advertising and administrative prints, ship plans, etc. souvenirs and objects used on board liners, etc.). Monumental triptych by the painter Laermans, The Emigrants (1896) is on loan from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Let us also mention a series of works loaned by the Eugeen Van Mieghem Museum, a small private institution dedicated to the memory of this talented Antwerp painter, "people's artist" whose realistic drawings, engravings and paintings immortalize the daily life of port workers and emigrants in his native district, het Eilandje. But, beyond the works of art, documents and period objects, it is the personal testimonies of Red Star Line passengers which constitute the common thread of the museum presentation. As the major construction site of the museum progressed in recent years, the team of researchers from the new institution led an intense campaign to collect testimonies and personal objects from former passengers of the Red Star Line and their descendants, in Europe. like in North America. This campaign made it possible to expand the museum’s initial collection. If the USN had her, perhaps the National Archives has something? file:///C:/Users/Jaager/Downloads/chungosgr-1.0216303.pdf https://test.marinersmuseum.org/search?query=DE GRASSE (STEAMSHIP%3A 1924)

I have one also. The belt is 4x36. I have never mounted the disk sander. The belt is useful for grubbing away the bulk of wood for bevels for frames at the bow quarter and aft quarter. I work a stack of frames in the +/_ 1.5" thick range of thickness. The table is only helpful for a small part. Most is freehand. There is a vac hose socket at the back. It is in a piece of sheet metal that is so thin that the vac pulls the sheet metal into the moving belt. I have to use steel corner braces to shim it out. For the flat, the vac is only partially effective. For working inside curves, I use the rounding end at the top. A side funnel for the vac gets some of the dust, but most of it goes airborne. The work space become drifts and dunes of sawdust. It is epic. A set of very sharp gouges would probably be a slower but much less messy way to debulk and free my frames now that I consider it.

My back of the envelope calc has the Home Depot endcap 2x4's coming in at ~ $0.75 per BF. If you have the tools to cut them, that price is difficult to beat.

I forgot - not screws but it is four something- the fit is tight - a watch case opener or seam separator may cause less scarring than a flat screw driver

Is true "the saw blade"? the width of possible blades ranges from the ones with carbide teeth to slitting/slotting blades that are too thin for doing more than that - i.e. even though the narrow width and resulting reduced loss to kerf on a rip cut makes them tempting for use on thicker stock, they do not have the necessary properties to do a proper job of it. I do wish that Jim had offered a second style of sliding table with a shorter right side so that the fence could be slud to the side instead of having to remove it. A homemade version is easy enough but the Al and bells and whistles of the Jim version is cool. The Vernier dial defeats me a bit. I am thinking about seeing if I can adapt a: iGaging Digital Readout DRO 6" Travel X-Large LCD Display EZ-VIEW PLUS but then - the NRG Thin Strip Saw Jig may make it superfluous.

The machine that are useful to you will very much depend on the jobs that they are needed for. My Byrnes 5" disk sander is an integral part of my process. I need a lot of precise end meets end joints that have zero room for play. I have never needed anything more aggressive than 220 grit and even that chews thru narrow stock quickly. I need A LOT of light at the action point. I do not know if a slower speed would be of much help. The key step is with the feed rate of the stock. The mass of the 5" disk does not mess around - it takes a while to power down - the dust collection is as effective - better even - than with any other machine that I use. Were I using plastic as a material, the variable speed 4" would be vital to avoid melting. With wood, finger force rate can control heat generation. I have a combo 1" belt/5" disk machine. Mine is branded Dremel, but all of the ones that I have seen look the same. I find it noxious to use. For the disk - the table is poorly designed and fabricated. Dust collection is a joke. The belt is too narrow and the tracking is flimsy. It takes being overly generous to call what it has "a table". Dusk collection is an unfulfilled wish. It is useless for inside curves and the wrong geometry for outside curves. A drum is better at doing both. There is a single contact point with a round drum. Collateral loss is limited by the round versus a flat grit face. I guess for other types of woodworking, this could be a useful tool. Ship modeling involves working with complex curves and this limits our degrees of freedom for useful machines.

I have wanted an angled drill for work inside a hull. I have a right angle adapter that fits a Dremel. I have a right angle adapter that fits a Foredom. What I most want - for sanding in tight quarters is a 45 degree adapter. No luck there. The adapters are bulky and awkward for use in the tight spaces we work in. I have a different approach for you. Use a small Chinese DC motor instead. Aliexpress had/has vendors that offer a wide variety of DC motors. Many quite small. many with collet chucks and Jacobs chucks. A variety of chuck sizes. They are not at all expensive. Some are two, three, four finger width long - minus the chuck and bit, but if you can get your hand in there are motors that will fit. As for a power source, why not cut to the chase? A benchtop DC power supply - this one has clicks for 1.5V, 3V, 4.5V,... to 14V so the rotational speed is under your control. No batteries or set DC plugin with a set output to try to parse a value for. https://www.mpja.com/15-14V-2-Amp-Variable-Output-Supply/productinfo/36688+PS/ and There are smaller gauge wires, but the plug that fits at one end and small alligator clamps at the other are handy. The rotation reverses if you switch the leads. https://www.mpja.com/Set-of-2-Test-Leads-2-meter-Silicone-Ins-Red-Black-Pair/productinfo/32734+TE/

I did a search for shellac flakes in UK and it came up on Amazon UK. There is probably pre-mixed also. The solvent is ethanol 95% (It has a strong bond with water. If you started with 100% ethanol, it will pull water vapour from the atmosphere until it is back to 95%.) old time = 100% methanol, or 99% isopropanol. For flakes, the lighter the flakes, the less soluble. I read and had accepted that dewaxing removed a solubilizer, but I wonder if dewaxing actually just reduces the weight? The part that is shellac may be just as soluble and the fraction that is something else just reduces the overall weight as it is removed? Half saturated shellac is a near universal primer. Wipes on, soaks in, dries fast and just about any follow on material - polymerizing oil, paint - acrylic or organic solvent based, varnish - water or mineral spirit, will bond to it. Add a bit of catalyzed linseed oil to the pad with the shellac and it is French polish.

Which is the product that you are naming "oil"? For the deck furniture that is wood, PVA to bond. For metal - two part epoxy. For plastic - no idea. PVA requires a porous or rough surface for its hyphae to get a grip. rough bare wood. Epoxy will bond to which ever material it meets - except maybe plastics or if your "oil" is actual oil - like mineral oil or castor oil that stays liquid - no bond. If it is a polymerizing oil - Tung, Linseed, or various nut oils - the epoxy will bond to it and the strength of the oil bond to wood will be the strength of the fitting's bond. Old style oil based vanish was often Linseed with a heavy metal catalyst to speed polymerization. Polyurethane is straight up plastic. If this is what you mean by varnish, I am with you in finding it unacceptable. In any case, any fitting should bond to the bare wood. Protect the footprint of the fitting with tape before you apply any clear finish. You seem determined about the oil, so suggesting half saturated shellac as a primer or solo and rhen full strength shellac if a clear layer is desired. If you are serious about assuring that the fittings stay bonded, add a mechanical component. This is tricky to do. For metal or plastic, a solid brass pin - fit into a hole in the middle of the fitting's footprint and into a hole in the deck. -epoxy both ends. For a wood fixture - a bamboo "dowel" "trunnel" instead of brass. PVA. - This is really "old school".

Up date: For my rough 8x4 - I now have a Craftsman benchtop planer. It said to use a jointer, but it smoothed out the minor cupping - I took 1/32" passes - several of them - Still did not fix the horrible 2" faces, but the 6-8" faces are as clear as I wish - I am happy with it. I have room to park it on my Ryobi BT3000 table. I think that I can place it in the middle and plane stock where it is. It is no fun to move. I tried a 2" straight bit on an under the table Wen router, but the guide setup was beyond me so that was a mess. I plan to try mounting a 3" drum and doing multiple passes. I have a speed control box - a rheostat I think - the question is - will the motor have any torque at the 1700 rpm range that the sanding drum requires? One of the 2' Maple 8x4 stock had a branch root or something irregular and my bandsaw blade did a bit of wandering with the change in grain direction. It will be touch and go to get 100% return to produce 0.25" 220grit stock from my initial thickness. Now, moving on to my original thickness sander upgrade project. I have new pillow blocks and shaft collars. I have an 18" x 1/2" shaft with a key way. And the 4" x 11" Al cylinder is here. Boy am I surprised at how heavy it is. It worries me a bit about the work on the motor to move that thing. But, it has to turn it, not lift it - there will be a lot more momentum. I was just notified that the 6" wedges will be here on Monday, so everything needed is almost here. The local fabrication shop says they will treat me fairly. I think I will wait out the season before I do my visit. Cutting a big hole on each side of the box was a really good idea. The motor does not get too hot. Now I wear out before the motor. The old one had a thermal switch and it stopped after an hour or so.

I live in Norfolk, I think I remember being shown a small building on the main here base that had woodworking tools that the living on base team members could use for hobby projects. If your duty stations also have this, get the specifics for the machines there and buy your own blades. If they have a router with a table, you could also have your own bits to have trade mark molding profiles on your cases. See what picture frame jigs are there. Maybe base maintenance has a woodworking shop - if they have not outsourced even that? Another possibility: for each base, do whatever passes these days for wanted pages with base personnel, and get with someone who already owns the machines that you will need. Get their data and buy your own blades and bits to fit their machines. I would be much more likely to lone out use of my machines, if the borrower brought his own gear that will dull, or break. You really do not want to haul full size machines from base to base - or at least I would not care to do it.

Real world - a finished kit model would probably sell for about what the original kit costs. For this one that is ~$300. If you are building this for income instead of pure enjoyment, you would make much more money per hour doing a job that requires wearing a paper hat. For the model in question, you should either stub the masts and repair the deck/hull yourself or give it a Viking funeral. If you were to consider repairing it yourself, your time would be better spent building a different ship. You have checked Endeavour off your list. If I were to place a bet on the situation, my money is on you having to write the whole thing off and concede the victory to your Ex. The only one likely to profit from pursuing this is your lawyer.