Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Steel's Naval Architecture
Allan Yedlinsky - SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
Seawatch Books
is much easier to use and has much more data. I have a
reprint of Steel by Sim Comfort but the Yedlinsky volume is
easier to use -
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Steel's Naval Architecture
Allan Yedlinsky - SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
Seawatch Books
is much easier to use and has much more data. I have a
reprint of Steel by Sim Comfort but the Yedlinsky volume is
easier to use -
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Jaager got a reaction from Estoy_Listo in Glue
I think this is one of those personal - possessive opinion subjects - sort of "love me, love my....." subjects.
For wood to wood - PVA is an excellent choice. Known as carpenter's wood glue. It comes in in several options: white and yellow are the high inventory varieties. I think yellow produces the stronger bond. I want resistance to humidity so I use Titebond II. If I was making a pond boat, I would use Titebond III.
Unlike what I did, you should probably avoid the high volume - lower unit cost option and get the 4 oz (120ml) size. It does have excellent shelf life, but fresh is probably the wiser choice.
For metal to wood - two part epoxy - mixing time option - "you pays your money and you takes your chances".
For rigging, natural fiber, neutral pH bookbinders PVA.
I am biased against "super glue". I suspect that the chemical reaction that makes it fast also makes it continue going and produce a brittle bond after a decade or two. It is also difficult to keep from reacting in the container over time.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Belt sander proxxon 28 536
If you wish to try the concept and are in US : Harbor freight has a generic version
of this tool - $ 33 with the 20% discount $27. I have not bitten, so I can't rate the
quality or durability.
I did get their 4 x 36 belt sander - during a periodic sale - plus 20% coupon - it was ~ $ 50
I have not used it much yet, but it is sturdy - did not mount the disc sander attachment.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Sheer and camber
Another armchair experiment ( denken experimenten ) :
The area to be covered by a plywood sub-deck is not accurately represented by a 2D Waterline plan. There is a depth dimension that increases the area to be covered.
Thought: using thick paper, the precise area could be had by using it to cover the area. Then, why not thin hard poster board. It is flexible, yet stiff.
THEN: Why not try using the poster board as the actual sub-deck? Once in place, give it a coat of thinned PVA and let it dry. This will compensate for the too far apart
mold supports and the PVA should stiffen up the poster board. Then a veneer of Hard Maple in planks can be laid. The veneer can be cut using a steel edge and sharp
edged tool. No saw would be needed.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Sheer and camber
If you use hitch chucks with the pins - more force on the hold down is possible
and that makes for a stronger bond.
A hitch chuck is a small piece of scrap wood that you drill a hole thru and
have between the head of the pin and the wood that you are clamping.
The pin can be tapped and bend getting more force. The chock can be
split off if necessary to grip the pin to remove it. I mostly use a a curved
Kelly clamp ( hemostat ) to remove the pins. Resting on a piece of planking,
the curved clamp makes a good prise
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Belt sander proxxon 28 536
If you wish to try the concept and are in US : Harbor freight has a generic version
of this tool - $ 33 with the 20% discount $27. I have not bitten, so I can't rate the
quality or durability.
I did get their 4 x 36 belt sander - during a periodic sale - plus 20% coupon - it was ~ $ 50
I have not used it much yet, but it is sturdy - did not mount the disc sander attachment.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Oscillating Spindle Sander to get one or not.
I think this sort of tool is the most efficient for shaping frames.
A tilting table is not helpful for sanding frames. The bevel is in constant change in angle.
I have to do it in the air. A tilting table is a source for mis-adjustment. The table is OK for
support for extreme outer shape and inside most mould line.
The main use that I can see for the tilting table would be for cutting a bevel on a waterway.
There are ways to do that.
I wish to use stock sheet sandpaper instead of the pre-formed tubes - cost and to deal with
my aversion to being beholden to a single source for disposable media.
The spindle ossilating motion is not one I wish to use.
I made my own, using a 1/3 HP reversible motor. The CW-CCW rotation option is helpful in sanding
the top of frames. The open ends respond better to pull than push. The sleeveless drums I use all mount
on the bare 1/2" motor shaft and I can mount cutting burrs and rotary shapers.
They are of some help, but 60 -80 grit sandpaper does bulk removal at least as well.
A drill press - the motor is in the way. If it could be rotated 180 degrees - it could do -
if you can get 1700 RPM out of it.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in More tools - Luthier, jeweler, fly-tying
Vossie,
For ready tool storage I use brick size blocks of 2 inches of Styrofoam
insulation. PVA glue it to a bit larger wood base. Here I had to glue
two 1 inch pieces - Home Depot sells 2 x 2 project sheets.
It does not take well to hot glue and I think contact cement melts it too.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Raised grain / grain definition
This comes from instructions for wood dyes:
Dissolved in alcohol - the dye does not penetrate as deeply- but it has no effect on the wood surface.
Dissolved in water - the dye penetrates deeply - but raises the grain.
Pre-treatment with 10% PVA in water, dry then sand the surface - the next water exposure with the dye will not further raise the grain.
Based on this, wet your surface with 10% PVA in water and let it dry. If it raises the grain too much, try a light sanding with 320 or 400 grit.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Hello from Virginia!
I was stationed at St. E's and lived at exit 2 - Telegraph Hill for 2 years. Traffic was fun in '70-'72
so it must be even for fun now. Interesting when they opened the Wilson bridge at rush hour or
waiting for it next to Blue Plains in August with no AC. Bart was just a hole near the Mall, so no
mass transit then. What with all the water features, traffic in Hampton Roads is pretty interesting itself.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Hello from Virginia!
Welcome aboard.
Where in Virginia are you?
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Jaager got a reaction from mischief in Rat line tension tool
JMS,
My comments on size were not directed at your work. I apologize for
my wording that makes it seem so. I was influenced by pix of
recently finished models. I am thinking that in general,
the ratlines should be much less than the shrouds they are tied to.
Your jig is very clever. It would also work well with a bubble level to
assist in keeping the line horizontal.
An old technique was to sew the actual ratline thru each of the shrouds
and then cover the join with a knot from a separate line trimmed off.
I had dismissed this, but with your jig and using a line that is finer than
the ratline itself to make the knot, the result may look better.
The clove hitch using the actual ratline has always looked a bit "fat" to me
and has done for about 40 years now. Using a thinner line should fix the problem
of scale with the knot. If the knot material was saturated with diluted
neutral pH bookbinders PVA, it should hold well and the ends trim off cleanly.
Sorry, more arm chair experimenting here.
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Jaager got a reaction from Rat-Fink-A-Booboo in Sheer and camber
Another armchair experiment ( denken experimenten ) :
The area to be covered by a plywood sub-deck is not accurately represented by a 2D Waterline plan. There is a depth dimension that increases the area to be covered.
Thought: using thick paper, the precise area could be had by using it to cover the area. Then, why not thin hard poster board. It is flexible, yet stiff.
THEN: Why not try using the poster board as the actual sub-deck? Once in place, give it a coat of thinned PVA and let it dry. This will compensate for the too far apart
mold supports and the PVA should stiffen up the poster board. Then a veneer of Hard Maple in planks can be laid. The veneer can be cut using a steel edge and sharp
edged tool. No saw would be needed.
-
Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Sheer and camber
Another armchair experiment ( denken experimenten ) :
The area to be covered by a plywood sub-deck is not accurately represented by a 2D Waterline plan. There is a depth dimension that increases the area to be covered.
Thought: using thick paper, the precise area could be had by using it to cover the area. Then, why not thin hard poster board. It is flexible, yet stiff.
THEN: Why not try using the poster board as the actual sub-deck? Once in place, give it a coat of thinned PVA and let it dry. This will compensate for the too far apart
mold supports and the PVA should stiffen up the poster board. Then a veneer of Hard Maple in planks can be laid. The veneer can be cut using a steel edge and sharp
edged tool. No saw would be needed.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Rat-Fink-A-Booboo in Sheer and camber
If you use hitch chucks with the pins - more force on the hold down is possible
and that makes for a stronger bond.
A hitch chuck is a small piece of scrap wood that you drill a hole thru and
have between the head of the pin and the wood that you are clamping.
The pin can be tapped and bend getting more force. The chock can be
split off if necessary to grip the pin to remove it. I mostly use a a curved
Kelly clamp ( hemostat ) to remove the pins. Resting on a piece of planking,
the curved clamp makes a good prise
-
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Jaager got a reaction from Jaxboat in Sheer and camber
If you use hitch chucks with the pins - more force on the hold down is possible
and that makes for a stronger bond.
A hitch chuck is a small piece of scrap wood that you drill a hole thru and
have between the head of the pin and the wood that you are clamping.
The pin can be tapped and bend getting more force. The chock can be
split off if necessary to grip the pin to remove it. I mostly use a a curved
Kelly clamp ( hemostat ) to remove the pins. Resting on a piece of planking,
the curved clamp makes a good prise
-
Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Sheer and camber
If you use hitch chucks with the pins - more force on the hold down is possible
and that makes for a stronger bond.
A hitch chuck is a small piece of scrap wood that you drill a hole thru and
have between the head of the pin and the wood that you are clamping.
The pin can be tapped and bend getting more force. The chock can be
split off if necessary to grip the pin to remove it. I mostly use a a curved
Kelly clamp ( hemostat ) to remove the pins. Resting on a piece of planking,
the curved clamp makes a good prise
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Raised grain / grain definition
This comes from instructions for wood dyes:
Dissolved in alcohol - the dye does not penetrate as deeply- but it has no effect on the wood surface.
Dissolved in water - the dye penetrates deeply - but raises the grain.
Pre-treatment with 10% PVA in water, dry then sand the surface - the next water exposure with the dye will not further raise the grain.
Based on this, wet your surface with 10% PVA in water and let it dry. If it raises the grain too much, try a light sanding with 320 or 400 grit.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in More tools - Luthier, jeweler, fly-tying
Vossie,
For ready tool storage I use brick size blocks of 2 inches of Styrofoam
insulation. PVA glue it to a bit larger wood base. Here I had to glue
two 1 inch pieces - Home Depot sells 2 x 2 project sheets.
It does not take well to hot glue and I think contact cement melts it too.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Carbatec 10" Bandsaw any good?
I will repeat: get as close to 2 HP as you can, for resawing. It really works
the system -
For high efficiency and fewer thickness sander passes, a Wood Slicer blade
from Highland - getting a unit that uses one of their ready made sizes will
save you about $10 a blade, and about 2-3 weeks waiting over custom length.
The 10" would be OK for scroll cutting - poor choice for resawing.
A generic 9" will scroll just as well for less. Just make
sure any unit you consider takes a Carter Stabilizer if you
want to cut tight curves. It costs near about want a 9" bandsaw
costs, but it is worth it.
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Jaager got a reaction from vossiewulf in More tools - Luthier, jeweler, fly-tying
Vossie,
For ready tool storage I use brick size blocks of 2 inches of Styrofoam
insulation. PVA glue it to a bit larger wood base. Here I had to glue
two 1 inch pieces - Home Depot sells 2 x 2 project sheets.
It does not take well to hot glue and I think contact cement melts it too.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Eddie in Carbatec 10" Bandsaw any good?
I will repeat: get as close to 2 HP as you can, for resawing. It really works
the system -
For high efficiency and fewer thickness sander passes, a Wood Slicer blade
from Highland - getting a unit that uses one of their ready made sizes will
save you about $10 a blade, and about 2-3 weeks waiting over custom length.
The 10" would be OK for scroll cutting - poor choice for resawing.
A generic 9" will scroll just as well for less. Just make
sure any unit you consider takes a Carter Stabilizer if you
want to cut tight curves. It costs near about want a 9" bandsaw
costs, but it is worth it.
-
Jaager got a reaction from BLACK VIKING in Deck Planking Pattern for Spanish 1690's Warship
Deck plank for USN between 1815-1860 is 40' Pine. By the 1690's ship building
was probably well on its way into bureaucracy - Spain included. Unlike the 1500's
when it was more father to son - we keep the rules secret - sort of thing.
I would use 40 as the max - use 30" as average - and use 3 plank shift - not as busy looking
and "more professional" in strength potential - full size.
You might consider an e-mail about this to Thomas J. Oertling at Texas A&M -
he wrote a chapter in The Philosophy of Shipbuilding on 15-16 C. Iberian wrecks.
The Nautical Archaeology folks may have data.
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