Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in How to sharpen a file.
There was one step that did not seem to be presented:
Any sharpening would occur due to the acid dissolving an even layer
of iron on the file. So the acid must have access to the surface of the metal.
Any wax, grease, or oil on the surface could occlude the water from the metal.
A pre-cleaning with detergent, water rinse and mineral spirit tx would give a fresh
iron surface.
The mineral acids discussed can be potentially dangerous and a problem to discard.
I am wondering ( as a denken experiment ) if electrolysis would not be a safer method?
The file could be wired as the donor and a copper rod to accept. I can't recall ever
seeing iron being used to plate another metal, but it should behave as any other metal.
The slightly salty water medium should be no problem to discard. I have not looked it up,
but I think that since Fe has a positive charge, the copper rod should get the negative charge.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in How to sharpen a file.
There was one step that did not seem to be presented:
Any sharpening would occur due to the acid dissolving an even layer
of iron on the file. So the acid must have access to the surface of the metal.
Any wax, grease, or oil on the surface could occlude the water from the metal.
A pre-cleaning with detergent, water rinse and mineral spirit tx would give a fresh
iron surface.
The mineral acids discussed can be potentially dangerous and a problem to discard.
I am wondering ( as a denken experiment ) if electrolysis would not be a safer method?
The file could be wired as the donor and a copper rod to accept. I can't recall ever
seeing iron being used to plate another metal, but it should behave as any other metal.
The slightly salty water medium should be no problem to discard. I have not looked it up,
but I think that since Fe has a positive charge, the copper rod should get the negative charge.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bill Hime in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
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Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
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Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
A ship with planks laid in your pattern would probably never find anyone willing to insure it.
Gunther is correct about the butt shift and as evidenced by the trunnel locations - there are not
near enough deck beams.
You could rip the deck up, or , use it as subflooring and add a top layer of planking using as thin a veneer as can be had to show.
I would go for as little contrast as possible.
I have bamboo skewers that are very hard, difficult to draw, stand up to force, but are significantly darker than Maple.
I have others that are softer, and are close to Maple in color, easy to draw, but want to split, and snap easily if the hole is not large enough.
At least in the time between 1815 and 1860 in the US, the planks could be 40 feet long in scale.
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Jaager got a reaction from FriedClams in Build burnout
How far are you with HMS Beagle?
Since there are no NMM plans specific to Beagle - except the frame construction sheet,
I am thinking that the kit is for the 10 gun brig class - taken from Cherokee - Rolla - or another sister.
In the refit for the 1831 voyage - the deck heights were changed - the stern altered - a mizzen mast added -
AND - if you look at Marquardt, the frame diagram - while all other station timbers were 9" and the space 4" -
in section 0 - B - the timbers are 10" and the space 6". On an original build, this would make no sense.
If, however, they wanted to lengthen the ship for the voyage, placing a new section amidships would be the way.
I am thinking that Marquardt fit 3 is 68" longer than the kit hull. If you have not started, you can patch in an additional
mold in the 0 space - just duplicate the dead flat mold. The deck gear should fit better. If you raise the bulwarks and decks ,
you could mimic the 1831 version by doing it the way the ship yard did.
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Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Build burnout
How far are you with HMS Beagle?
Since there are no NMM plans specific to Beagle - except the frame construction sheet,
I am thinking that the kit is for the 10 gun brig class - taken from Cherokee - Rolla - or another sister.
In the refit for the 1831 voyage - the deck heights were changed - the stern altered - a mizzen mast added -
AND - if you look at Marquardt, the frame diagram - while all other station timbers were 9" and the space 4" -
in section 0 - B - the timbers are 10" and the space 6". On an original build, this would make no sense.
If, however, they wanted to lengthen the ship for the voyage, placing a new section amidships would be the way.
I am thinking that Marquardt fit 3 is 68" longer than the kit hull. If you have not started, you can patch in an additional
mold in the 0 space - just duplicate the dead flat mold. The deck gear should fit better. If you raise the bulwarks and decks ,
you could mimic the 1831 version by doing it the way the ship yard did.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Build burnout
How far are you with HMS Beagle?
Since there are no NMM plans specific to Beagle - except the frame construction sheet,
I am thinking that the kit is for the 10 gun brig class - taken from Cherokee - Rolla - or another sister.
In the refit for the 1831 voyage - the deck heights were changed - the stern altered - a mizzen mast added -
AND - if you look at Marquardt, the frame diagram - while all other station timbers were 9" and the space 4" -
in section 0 - B - the timbers are 10" and the space 6". On an original build, this would make no sense.
If, however, they wanted to lengthen the ship for the voyage, placing a new section amidships would be the way.
I am thinking that Marquardt fit 3 is 68" longer than the kit hull. If you have not started, you can patch in an additional
mold in the 0 space - just duplicate the dead flat mold. The deck gear should fit better. If you raise the bulwarks and decks ,
you could mimic the 1831 version by doing it the way the ship yard did.
-
Jaager got a reaction from bluenose2 in Build burnout
How far are you with HMS Beagle?
Since there are no NMM plans specific to Beagle - except the frame construction sheet,
I am thinking that the kit is for the 10 gun brig class - taken from Cherokee - Rolla - or another sister.
In the refit for the 1831 voyage - the deck heights were changed - the stern altered - a mizzen mast added -
AND - if you look at Marquardt, the frame diagram - while all other station timbers were 9" and the space 4" -
in section 0 - B - the timbers are 10" and the space 6". On an original build, this would make no sense.
If, however, they wanted to lengthen the ship for the voyage, placing a new section amidships would be the way.
I am thinking that Marquardt fit 3 is 68" longer than the kit hull. If you have not started, you can patch in an additional
mold in the 0 space - just duplicate the dead flat mold. The deck gear should fit better. If you raise the bulwarks and decks ,
you could mimic the 1831 version by doing it the way the ship yard did.
-
Jaager got a reaction from FriedClams in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
A ship with planks laid in your pattern would probably never find anyone willing to insure it.
Gunther is correct about the butt shift and as evidenced by the trunnel locations - there are not
near enough deck beams.
You could rip the deck up, or , use it as subflooring and add a top layer of planking using as thin a veneer as can be had to show.
I would go for as little contrast as possible.
I have bamboo skewers that are very hard, difficult to draw, stand up to force, but are significantly darker than Maple.
I have others that are softer, and are close to Maple in color, easy to draw, but want to split, and snap easily if the hole is not large enough.
At least in the time between 1815 and 1860 in the US, the planks could be 40 feet long in scale.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
All references that I have seen about Loquat have been from residents of Florida.
As I understand it, Loquat is fairly common as a suburban horticultural specimen in
this subtropical zone but not so much elsewhere. Not commercial, I think it is obtained
by knowing someone who is removing a tree, or having a fortunate relationship with a
local tree service.
A similar type in most of the US east of the Mississippi as far as usefulness and availability
would be Bradford Pear.
-
Jaager got a reaction from bluenose2 in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
-
Jaager got a reaction from hornet in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
-
Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
-
Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Altduck in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Altduck in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
A ship with planks laid in your pattern would probably never find anyone willing to insure it.
Gunther is correct about the butt shift and as evidenced by the trunnel locations - there are not
near enough deck beams.
You could rip the deck up, or , use it as subflooring and add a top layer of planking using as thin a veneer as can be had to show.
I would go for as little contrast as possible.
I have bamboo skewers that are very hard, difficult to draw, stand up to force, but are significantly darker than Maple.
I have others that are softer, and are close to Maple in color, easy to draw, but want to split, and snap easily if the hole is not large enough.
At least in the time between 1815 and 1860 in the US, the planks could be 40 feet long in scale.
-
Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
All references that I have seen about Loquat have been from residents of Florida.
As I understand it, Loquat is fairly common as a suburban horticultural specimen in
this subtropical zone but not so much elsewhere. Not commercial, I think it is obtained
by knowing someone who is removing a tree, or having a fortunate relationship with a
local tree service.
A similar type in most of the US east of the Mississippi as far as usefulness and availability
would be Bradford Pear.
-
Jaager got a reaction from dgbot in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
All references that I have seen about Loquat have been from residents of Florida.
As I understand it, Loquat is fairly common as a suburban horticultural specimen in
this subtropical zone but not so much elsewhere. Not commercial, I think it is obtained
by knowing someone who is removing a tree, or having a fortunate relationship with a
local tree service.
A similar type in most of the US east of the Mississippi as far as usefulness and availability
would be Bradford Pear.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
All references that I have seen about Loquat have been from residents of Florida.
As I understand it, Loquat is fairly common as a suburban horticultural specimen in
this subtropical zone but not so much elsewhere. Not commercial, I think it is obtained
by knowing someone who is removing a tree, or having a fortunate relationship with a
local tree service.
A similar type in most of the US east of the Mississippi as far as usefulness and availability
would be Bradford Pear.
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