Massimodels

A quick update of the deck detail painted and assembled – again a loose test fit but still gives a good impression. Again this will have to have a pause for schooling but I’m quite happy to take my time. Especially since the results are coming out quite well.

Funnel # 4 by the looks of it, posted below, taken from the following link: https://propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/138/lot/28725 As seen the colour is very similar to that of Tamiya XF-57, albeit with some warmer undertones – perhaps a pink or red preshade would prove useful: Therefore when the time is right, this is what shall be used.

Back at it again – making some progress on the deck houses and also another one of my thinking back changes. I changed all of the wooden rail sections from a light brown to dark. Even though some sources say it is more accurate, I very much prefer the darker colour, especially because it adheres to the movie model in a pleasant and obvious way. I also found some lovely reference images of the a funnel used on the movie I will post below for future use.

Got some more work in, painted and built the under deck space on the forward and aft well deck. It has been discovered that this colour was more like orange, it was hard to match and this is more nostalgic for me as well. With the boat deck ready to be secured, the build had come a long way already. She looks very majestic now. More updates to follow….

Can’t wait to see the progress when you do make some – those windows look very good it’s quite a good idea. I am yet to see a very convincing log of this kit, but very interested in this one. Keep us posted!

Some more progress on the decks, adding details and such. Glued down A Deck, and need to attached the superstructure sides. All the little wood handrail sections were painted with XF 57 and the cargo hatches with XF 14, perhaps a bit dark but again, oils paints will help to even things out. Unfortunately my progress has not been as quick as I’d hoped. Mainly because this is quite a daunting and perfectionistic project for me, so I take my time and only work on it when I have sufficient motivation and energy. Hopefully I will have time to work on it intermittently, but we shall see. But as always, more updates to follow….

A beautiful thunderstorm today as well as a civic holiday; the ideal combination for some progress. C Deck was attached into the hull, and attention was given to the aft Well Deck, and B Deck deck houses and walls. The walls of A Deck were also attached. I’ll be sure to add some washes to the white areas so they are not so pronounced, but I’m not terribly dissatisfied with the result so far. Some tonal inconsistency in the white, but nothing a good wash and oils can’t fix. I also screwed up painting the forecastle deck details so I’ve stripped it with isopropyl alcohol and started again – very frustrating. Next time I will paint all the details first, mask them off, and then paint the deck colour. More updates to follow….

Perhaps I have wasted some time – and lots of motivation – but I’ve redone the stripe a second time as I was unhappy with its inaccurate width. I’ve simply tried to make a consistent line that is as small as possible. This is my final attempt. Some hand painting work on the decks to keep myself occupied. And started with the wall sections. I also shaved down the forward cargo hatch, since it was far too tall, still is a bit on the tall side, but the surrounding details would not complement it if it were to be smaller. After getting this stripe done I have some more motivation to continue. It definitely set me into some perfectionist avoidance anxiety. More updates to follow….

As promised I have completed the yellow stripe using tamiya XF-3: More updates to follow on securing and building the decks….

Back from vacation – let the real vacation begin; In order to move forward, all the deck pieces needed to be done together. By experimentation, I employed both pre and post-shading techniques, all with simple black and white shades (as seen). I started with black primer, followed up with a standard white pre-shade which accentuated both the wood panel lines, direction of grime travel, and general longitudinal motion of the eye along the deck. Then I applied light coats of XF-20 grey which were perfect when compared to the reference material. I then put some more white on top for tonal variation, and to generally lighten things up. I do not like using more than one colour (shade) for painting, especially like this; to me it gives quite an artificial look at the end – and certainly not accurate to scale. I still have yet to apply a wash on this – I will again have to experiment to see what would look the best – perhaps none? I'm quite chuffed with the result – hopefully a sign of good things to come. I will continue to be an advocate of paining one’s own deck. No need for wooden stickers – they are not convincing. Next is the yellow stripe (of doom) of which I have delayed applying (as seen). It certainly has the ability to make or break the model. – – – Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: More updates to follow.

Thanks Roger, glad you think so. General rules of thumb: - The effect is a bit unorthodox since it will be black upon white upon more black, but it still works if you use your eyes keenly - I applied white on the black primed hull, spraying a mottling/stippling effect, which in reality is just random ways to fill the space without completely painting it over - For the effect to really work, focus the white on the middle of the raised details, so that the outer edges are still dark (that’s what makes the light/shadow effect). Below is a picture of my BF110 of which this strategy is applied on a far larger subject scale: In this case I would be more subtle than the plane, but I hope you’ve gained the understanding - The fan is a result of nothing but a lack of money to buy some more ventilation systems Please ask if you have any more questions, hope this helps, and good luck!

To start, I painted the hull black, and painstakingly did some aircraft-type pre-shading on the individual hull plates with white. These helped to get a good baseline of colour differentiation, adding shadows, and the additional layers of paint made the hull extra matte (just what I like). The hull colour was consequently put on with light layers of Tamiya XF-9 hull colour – it seems to fit the bill nicely given distance and general lighting conditions: Then added XF-1 black in a similar fashion, making sure to keep lots of the white showing through, and then adding the white strip which was a bit interesting with the white pre-shading (not recommended but didn't want to experiment when white is also so easily weathered with washes and oils): This last photo looks promising for a base colour coat – and I hope the ideas I spoke of earlier make more sense with this. If anyone has sympathies towards these ideas please be sure to share, I could use all the tips I can get.

Hello all, After the semester over I thought of taking on another project – one which I had always wanted to complete, especially as a child. The Academy/Minicraft Titanic. Although not a comparison to the far more extensive Trumpeter at 1:200, I've had two of these kits in my stockpile for a while, that I picked up for a fraction of MSRP, so I thought it would prove wise to start here, and tackle something like that in the future. I have both an early 1997 version and the Deluxe Edition from 2017, I'll probably only use the older one for moral support, as not to worry as much about the perfectionism of the build, but probably will never build it considering the improvements to the kit since that version. To complement (replace) the given photo-etch, I will be using some sets from Tom's Modelworks – which have not arrived yet. I consider their complete set of photo etch to be overkill for me, and will be opting for the essentials (detail sets and railings), and swapping the PE lifeboat davits for the 3D printed resin davit and lifeboat sets – they are more accurate and far easier to assemble. My main intention with this build is to hone more artistic skills with respect to true realism. I have strong feelings about the ideas of "pristine" or "weathered" builds, as they seem to neglect the idea of scale modelling itself. I have experience with plastic aircraft at 1:48, and whether or not one has a preference for a "cleaner" or "dirtier" build, some common techniques are still employed regardless. Pre/post-shading or panel line and surface washes are almost always used, and to me do not fit into a strict category of "weathering", but are simply required to attain realism at a given scale. Additionally, colour theory also comes into play at difference distances with different lighting – glossy black is really not so dark or glossy at normal viewing distances, neither is it uniform in colour. Now the same must be said about any form, most notably (and prevalently lacking) in ships, especially plastic ones at larger scales. I therefore draw inspiration from James Cameron's 1:20 model from the 1997 movie, which served during the golden period of movie models – truly some art was made. As seen, this model is definitely "weathered" but is also the most appropriate impression of Titanic, given the scale. The first photo gives a good impression of the colours, while the others give good close-up detail. I only hope to scratch the surface with my attempt, but I will definitely use it, and my 1:48 techniques, as heavy inspiration for my building choices. There are plenty of in box reviews of this model, I don't think anyone would benefit from my photos of the parts. All the useful Cameron model photos I could find: As well as a great video: Overall, I perceive this build to be a learning experience, but also a fulfillment of aspirations. More updates to follow...

Yes I’ve done some research and it seems like this is fair; albeit less so on the turrets, as they seem closer to accurate, but the funnels definitely. But still in my opinion the best and most efficient kit of this scale.

I actually took a look at @CDW's Hood by I Love Kit. It seems that the plastic detail in most cases is inferior, so the Flyhawk may be the better choice. Also, what did you mean by the overscale effect of Flyhawk's models?