Daryl

Well, she is finished. Spent the last two days tying everything off. Not happy with the end result though, especially the running rigging. I just could not fit everything in. I have so much to learn. If anyone knows of a book that is viewed as being the "bible" of how to rig a model, please let me know. In the mean time, I will keep looking at all the great models on this forum hoping to learn more from them.
 
Here are the last two photos. If you look closely, you will see the shortcuts I have made. I was thinking of doing another "section" model but I will try and learn a lot more before I start one.
 

 

 
I will now finish my report and that will be attached in the next day or two.
 
 

And here is the final photo of the Knarr with its name showing on it.
 
 
 
 

Rigging time.
 
I found a few things that I was not happy with and therefore made changes to.
 
The first one was how the shrouds were attatched to hull. In the instructions, they asked that you tied a loop through a hole in the inner frame (see follwing photo) and then linked the shroud to it using the shroud pins.
 

 
If you did this, then there was no way in which you could tighten/loosen the shrouds.
 
Searching on the internet I found another option which I decided to follow. It is shown in the next photo.
 

 
The next photo shows the mast with its shrouds.
 

 
The next thing I changed was how the forestay was attached to the bow. The instructions ask you to tie the forestay through a hole in the bow. Whilst researching I found that there was a "pin" inserted through the bow which the forestay was tied around, so I decided to do that as is shown in the following photos.
 

 

 
The last thing I changed was the Parrel. There is evidence that they used a wooden parrel so I made one up and used that insted of tying rope around the mast and spar.
 

 
The following photos show the sail, sail bar and some of the sail ropes
 

 

 
I hope to finish the rigging in the next week and then make up the cargo and that will be it.

I have now finished planking the hull but found another problem which is more lack of detail in the instructions rather than a problem with the model.
 
As I mentioned earlier, before starting the planking, you have to instll the "Inner Frame". It sits some distance below the tops of the main frames. The instructions do not tell you how far below so I took an estimated guess from looking at the drawings. My suggestion would be to not glue it in place but to pin it so that you can complete the planking and then relocate the Inner Fram so that it fits more correctly. ie the gap between the top of the Inner Frame and the side beams is uniform. It would also need you to not glue the sub-frames into the Inner Frame but pin them as well. A bit of extra work but I think the end result would warrant it.
 
All planks attached - Bottom and side views.
 

 

 
 
How it looked before painting. You can see the uneven space I referred to between the Inner frame and the side beam.
 
 

 
 
The internal hull was painted with Pine tar and the fore and aft decking with some model boat "wood brown" paint.
 
 

 
 
The external hull was painted with Pine tar. The following photos show how the color changes in different light.
 


 


 
I am now working on the Rudder oar.
 
Once I have finished that, I will be having lots of fun using heaps of 4mm lengths of 0.5mm black fibre optic as replacements for the wrought iron rivits used on the original Knarrs. The Dremel is about to get a serious work out.
 
Hopefully I will start on the rigging in two weeks time.

Rigging time.
 
I found a few things that I was not happy with and therefore made changes to.
 
The first one was how the shrouds were attatched to hull. In the instructions, they asked that you tied a loop through a hole in the inner frame (see follwing photo) and then linked the shroud to it using the shroud pins.
 

 
If you did this, then there was no way in which you could tighten/loosen the shrouds.
 
Searching on the internet I found another option which I decided to follow. It is shown in the next photo.
 

 
The next photo shows the mast with its shrouds.
 

 
The next thing I changed was how the forestay was attached to the bow. The instructions ask you to tie the forestay through a hole in the bow. Whilst researching I found that there was a "pin" inserted through the bow which the forestay was tied around, so I decided to do that as is shown in the following photos.
 

 

 
The last thing I changed was the Parrel. There is evidence that they used a wooden parrel so I made one up and used that insted of tying rope around the mast and spar.
 

 
The following photos show the sail, sail bar and some of the sail ropes
 

 

 
I hope to finish the rigging in the next week and then make up the cargo and that will be it.

I could not wait. I was so close to finishing it so I got on with it.
 
Attaching the rudder to the hull is interesting. The rope starts from outside (knotted end), goes through the hull, comes out side and then back inside and ties off. Or that is how I see it happenign.  Here is how it looks.
 

 
 
The barrels did not want to lay straight by themselves, so I stuck two together and hey presto, everything went well.
 

 
 
Wrapping the bales was fun, especially as my fingers are not on the small side.
 

 
 
And then it was finished.
 

 
 
This has been a fun build. Not sure if I will do a 1:72 scale again, but you never know. John is the name of the gentleman who I have built it for. We are going to name it John's Knarr. It will be painted on the bow in the "Younger Futhork” (Long Branch) Runic alphabet. Younger Futhork or "Normal Runes" gradually evolved Elder Futhark over a period of many years and stabilized by about 800 A.D., the beginning of the Viking Age. It was the main alphabet in Norway, Sweden and Denmark throughout the Viking Age.
 
John's Knarr translates to:
 

 
I hope you have enjoyed watching this build as much as I have enjoyed doing it.
 
I will be back sometime in the next 2 - 3 months with my next build once I have finished the other 3 projects I currently have underway. 1 - Restoring a 1901 Singer treadle Sewing machine, 2 - building a Cigar box ukulele and 3 - building a rocking horse for a new great nephew.

And here is the final photo of the Knarr with its name showing on it.
 
 
 
 

Hi folks
 
It has been a long time since my last entry and a lot has happened since then. I have decided not to build the small lathe I previously mentioned, and the result of that is that I will not be building the steam engine for the Queen. I have therefore finished building the boat to a level that we are happy with and I have attached photos showing its progress. I guess that I am really a "kit" man and having seen some of the great ships in this forum that have been built from kits, I think I will stay doing that and over time, improve my skills in areas such as rope making, rigging and decking. Thank you to everyone who has been in touch.
 
Daryl
 
All Timbers (Ribs) fitted
 

 
Installation of Gunwale & Boiler deck
 

 
Gunwale & Boiler deck fitted
 

 
Stringers fitted
 

 
Foredeck & awning supports fitted
 

 
Double-bit bollards fitted in stern
 

 
Staghorn bollard & Fairleads fitted in the bow
 

 
Awning frame installed
 

 
Awning installed
 

 
And thre she is in all her glory. My apologies to those who were looking forward to vision of her puffing around the water feature. You never know, it may get resurrected some time in the future. I have not installed the aft decing just in case. 
 
 

With the exception of adding the port barrels and possibly a furled sail, the build of the Barco Rabelo is now complete. The barrels and sail give me another good reason to go to Float a Boat and see what goodies they have in store.
 

Things are happening quickly now. I have completed and installed the support infrastructure for the barrels, installed the Coqueiro, installed the Pegada (platform) and given the boat a complete new paint job.  It is starting to look good.
 

 

 

 

 
I have now started on the mast and rigging. Getting good information on the exact rigging used has been difficult but I think I have everything I need.
 
 

And here is the final photo of the Knarr with its name showing on it.
 
 
 
 

Now that someone has mentioned ModelExpo and Paypal in the one entry, why doesn't ModelExpo use Paypal?? Certainly would help everyone especially those of us how have horrendous postage due to being international clients.

Now that someone has mentioned ModelExpo and Paypal in the one entry, why doesn't ModelExpo use Paypal?? Certainly would help everyone especially those of us how have horrendous postage due to being international clients.

Now that someone has mentioned ModelExpo and Paypal in the one entry, why doesn't ModelExpo use Paypal?? Certainly would help everyone especially those of us how have horrendous postage due to being international clients.

Well, I had an inkling that the rigging was not going to be simple.
 
In photo 74 of the coloured instructions, it tells you to attach 6 x 4mm pulleys, labelled "E". Very clear photo of the two holes in them, so that is what I did.
 
In sheet B of the large black and white rigging diagrams, it indicates that the rigging is to be connected to 5 x 4mm blocks labelled "D".
 
I will not be changing the pulleys to blocks as there was not enough of them provided in the first place.
 
I have found the rigging diagrams to be very confusing and not helpful. Maybe I am just not experienced enough yet.
 
I have also changed brands of the cord I am using for the rigging. The provided cotton is too fluffy. I have also had to drill out a lot of the pulleys and blocks as the holes are woeful. The joys of being retired and having nothing to do but build model ships. NOT.
 
Having said all that, following is a photo of the Main yard which is now swinging nicely from the Main mast.
 

Rigging time.
 
I found a few things that I was not happy with and therefore made changes to.
 
The first one was how the shrouds were attatched to hull. In the instructions, they asked that you tied a loop through a hole in the inner frame (see follwing photo) and then linked the shroud to it using the shroud pins.
 

 
If you did this, then there was no way in which you could tighten/loosen the shrouds.
 
Searching on the internet I found another option which I decided to follow. It is shown in the next photo.
 

 
The next photo shows the mast with its shrouds.
 

 
The next thing I changed was how the forestay was attached to the bow. The instructions ask you to tie the forestay through a hole in the bow. Whilst researching I found that there was a "pin" inserted through the bow which the forestay was tied around, so I decided to do that as is shown in the following photos.
 

 

 
The last thing I changed was the Parrel. There is evidence that they used a wooden parrel so I made one up and used that insted of tying rope around the mast and spar.
 

 
The following photos show the sail, sail bar and some of the sail ropes
 

 

 
I hope to finish the rigging in the next week and then make up the cargo and that will be it.

And here is the final photo of the Knarr with its name showing on it.
 
 
 
 

With the exception of adding the port barrels and possibly a furled sail, the build of the Barco Rabelo is now complete. The barrels and sail give me another good reason to go to Float a Boat and see what goodies they have in store.
 

The rigging is now completed and if anyone has a very good understanding of exactly how a Barco Rabelo should be rigged, please let me know. The more detail you have the better, especially how it is all connected to the hull.
 
I have decided to put the sail on hold and will now concentrate on making the Espadela/Scutcher (sweep oar). If I do put the sail on I think it will just be furled on the
 

 

 

 
One day I will make another Barco Rabelo as I have learnt so much building this one I am sure I can do a better job next time around. That is why I would appreciate receiving any information that would be helpful.

It has been another good day inside in the warmth.
 
Went shopping at Float a Boat yesterday and stocked up on some bits and pieces.
 
I now have the mast stepped and the Forestay and Shrouds installed. After looking at lots of photos and drawings I realised that even though the rigging seemed to be similar on all Rabelos, there were some differences. So, with that in mind, I am installing the basics but with a bit of a difference here and there.
 
I was unable to find something that showed exactly how the shrouds were connected to the hull so I have taken the view that the shroud had a sheepshank (used for adjustments) that led into an eye and then it was tied off on a cleat.
 
As these are working boats that have large wine barrels loaded and unloaded on them and travelled down a very dangerous river which subjected them to some damage, I decided to make the model not look perfect but to have a "used" look about it.
 
As an example, you will note that all the sheepshanks are not exactly the same size and not perfectly in line.
 
Two of the shrouds are mainly used to keep the platform in place, so maybe they could be called something else.
 
I hope to finish the rigging (halyard) soon and then I can paint up a sail to go with it.
 

 

 

 

 
 

Things are happening quickly now. I have completed and installed the support infrastructure for the barrels, installed the Coqueiro, installed the Pegada (platform) and given the boat a complete new paint job.  It is starting to look good.
 

 

 

 

 
I have now started on the mast and rigging. Getting good information on the exact rigging used has been difficult but I think I have everything I need.
 
 

I changed the color of the decking to keep it more in line with the original Rabelo. Also painted the external trim the same color. There is some yellow coming so it should be very colorful when finished. The photo does not look the best and I think my trusty little Canon Ixus 95 IS has just about taken it last photo.

 
I am sure the original Coqueiro (stern cover) was made from several pieces of timber but due to the size of the model, I decided to carve one out of a piece of huon pine. Pity it has to be eventually painted yellow as the pine looks really nice in its natural state.
 

 
Next up is completing the framework that holds the port barrels. The great little pegs sure come in hand to hold the cross pieces in place while the glue sets.
 

 
Should have the framework finished tomorrow.

This cold weather has kept me inside so lots of small projects being done. The Rabelo is progressing nicely and the following show where it is at now.
 
The next task was to fit the bottom braces and side frames.

 
You will notice that the frames extend above the previous planking. This is because they have both internal and external beams attatched to them and then some side trim. The following three photos are of the beams and trim being attached. Don't you just love those little pegs. Very hand for a model that is only 230mm long.
 

 

 

 
Now it is time to install the front and rear decking and the central walkway.
 

 
There is a framework that holds the port barrels. The first pieces are the supports that run along the inside of the hull above the previously installed beams.
 

 
At this point, I thought it would be best to start painting the inside before fitting the barrel framework. Some of the Rabelos have intricate paint jobs and I will be attempting to copy the paint work on an original Ferreira Port House Barco Rabelo.
 

 

 
As the paint dries, I am off to continue work on my next Diddley Bow.
 

Finally got around to doing some more on the Rabelo.
 
The first step was to install the cross braces on the sagro.

 
Now came the fun of adding the planking.
 

 

 

 

 
And that completes the build of the clinker hull.
 

 
The next job will be to install the frames. It will be fun cutting them to size to fit.

I have now completed building the Sagro.
 
The following photos show the planks being attached and then the final shaping. On the old Rabelos, before any side planking was done, the Sagro was shaped by placing the two ends on raised posts/planks and then placing weights on the centre. The plan I am using has a straight Sagro.
 

 

 

 

 
The next piece of work is to attach a triangular piece of wood to the full length of the bow and stern which will provide additional support for attaching the side planks. This is not normally done but due to the small scale of this boat the additional wood will certainly help.