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cdrusn89

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Everything posted by cdrusn89

  1. cdrusn89
    Quarterdeck rail, starboard side is "in". I used 1/4" X 1/16" boxwood material I had left over from something rather than the instructions directed 3/16" X 1/16" because I used the molding cutter to put the double bead on the 1/4" wide material thus no need for the extra step and potential glue getting out of control. I did mount the rail flush with the inside so it sticks out a bit as it would have on using the instructions. I am not sure it sticks out as much as it should as I do not think I got the bulwarks as thin as the instructions indicated. Here is the starboard side. The instructions silent and as best I can tell so are the plans on what to do at the end of the rail where bulwark ends. I continued the rail down the face and then covered the "seam" with a short piece of molding cut into a 1/16" X 1/16" piece of boxwood (which has not been trimmed yet). And now my attempt at replacing the volutes supplied with the kit. I have no hope of reproducing these in boxwood so I made the "fittings" you see here back in May They are not glued in yet, just being dry fit to see if I did not make some grievous error - so far so good. except for that "wobble" in the upper one - I had some trouble with the molding cutter on that one.
  2. cdrusn89
    I got all the interior bulwark planking completed and sanded/planed down to match the exterior planking. Now for some touch-up painting (like around the gun ports) and then we can move to the quarterdeck and stern cap rails. Here is the starboard side after the painting. The tape is to keep the paint off the exterior - at least in theory.
  3. cdrusn89
    I finished assembling the two 15/16" Syren Ship's wheels, cut the 5/32" dowel for the drum and found two small circular piece for the ends of the drum. After I glued the small pieces on I looked and the instructions show the ends have holes already cut in them. The ones I used did not have the holes. Probably should have stopped there and found the right pieces but... Anyway, I drilled holes AFTER they were securely glued to the drum. Even then I worked up to 1/16" in four steps to keep from tearing the wood. Worked okay but would have been a lot faster if the holes were cut by the laser. I cut some pieces of round toothpick to serve as the shaft and glued that is both ends. I have the supports ready to go but am waiting to paint them when I touch-up the interior bulwarks - any day now. Here is the ship's wheel ready to mount iin the supports.
  4. cdrusn89
    I cleaned up my "lower stern rail" and put a coat of clear satin poly on. Looks better but I still need to touch up the red paint. Waiting until I have all the inner bulwarks planked so I can get all the red touch up done at once. I got the bulwarks on the port side planked and have turned the model around on the workbench to work the starboard side. That is why the paper is not taped down on that side yet. Here is the port side planked but not yet touched up.
  5. cdrusn89
    Back on the model itself I got my "five piece band" of fillers in place between the stern timbers but decided that the "seams" were too unsightly. I took the same piece of boxwood that I made the filler pieces from and thickness sanded it down to a lttle less than 1/64" thick and cut a piece to run in front of the stern timbers and then added a piece of fancy molding to cover the seams from the front. So here is the stern transom prior to light sanding and coat of W-o-P. Clearly some touch-up on the planking is required.
  6. cdrusn89
    I am not a big fan of Britannia metal fittings in general so when I saw that the ship's wheels (there are two mounted on a common shaft/drum on Confederacy) were of this material I started looking for something else. The ones that came with the kit measure .83" in diameter at the ends of the hand grips (or approx 21mm for those so inclined). Most of the non-metal pre-made wheels on the market appear to be somewhat out of scale (too thick) and either considerably bigger or smaller although I admit to not having done an exhaustive search. I have, in the past used the kit-made wooden ship's wheels from Syren Ship Model so decided to give that a go here. Unfortunately the smaller of the two wheels on offer is 15/16" in diameter (24mm) or about 15% bigger than the kit provided. I looked at the mounting system for the wheel assembly and may have to add some pads for the wheel supports to get enough clearance above the deck but think that is a reasonable trade-off for the better looking wheel up on top of the quarterdeck in plain sight of even a casual observer. Here is one completed wheel (unfinished) and the pieces of the second one in the jig provided. Other than having to sand the laser char off some pretty small and delicate pieces assembly is pretty straightforward (assuming you have a Dremel or similar tool for turning the spindles) and the site has a good set of instructions available for download. Although not mentioned in the instructions I found it helpful to tape the jig down - one less thing to move around as you try and get the pieces in the jig to stay put as you glue the rim pieces in place.
  7. cdrusn89
    So having finished up (for now) the knees (and beams) the next step is to finish planking the interior of the bulwarks. So I decided to start on the interior of the transom. Try as I might I was unable to get a "reading" on what (if anything) fills in the gap between the rail that crosses over the top of the stern non the outside (that has all the figures sticking above it (a bit) and the interior planking. The stern rail runs over the top of the extended stern timbers (now box wood on this model). And when I started adding the interior planking I noticed that at least on my model it was not going to be easy to get the planking all the way back to the stern timbers without a lot of struggle. To make a long story short (ish) I decided to fit a boxwood "cap" to span between the inboard edge of the existing stern rail and extending inboard to cover the edge of the interior planking (and the gap that mine seem to have. I looked at the layout and decided that trying to cut a single piece was probably a bad idea since it needs to notch around the stern timbers and is curved to boot. I decided to cut it in five pieces since it will be hidden a bit by the stern rail that goes on top of the stern timbers. Here is the stern showing the existing rail over the figures. This is the somewhat butchered up stern planking after the first coat of paint. The masking tape is to protect the Great cabin and deck beams from paint and debris. When I started adding the planking I was unsure how far to go and ended up going further than I would need with the extra rail so I had to take some out. Next time I'll try and be more sparing with the glue. Luckily this will all mostly be hidden from view. And here is my "five piece band" of filler pieces - only one has been trimmed to the correct width. If I can get the inboard edge to cooperate I may add a piece of the double bead molding to the interior edge just because I think I can.
  8. cdrusn89
    Completed (I think) the deck beams and carlings at the bow. Interesting is that while the instructions do not mention, nor the pictures show, the drawing shows carlings between the third and fourth beams (where the bitts are). I may actually install something for a landing for the decking in front of the bitts for as it stands now they would just "hang" there. Anyway here is the forward area as it stands now. Since (pending more carlings forward) the next step is to finish planking the bulwarks I have another task to do before that. I want to depart from the kit material and finish and do the quarterdeck rail in boxwood instead of painting it black and leave the exterior bulwark in the Swiss pear. So, I decided to replace the current basswood stern timbers with boxwood ones. I was worried about tearing up the stern but I apparently was careful with the glue and was able to carefully cut the existing timbers out where they meet the deck. I (hopefully) was able to get the spacing and height per what was there. Here is the stern with the boxwood timbers. Next step is to plank this part of the stern.
  9. cdrusn89
    Thank Bruce - I am still at a loss for how this happened. The pictures I took back when installing the deck furniture and coamings do not make it obvious that anything is amiss or I likely would have noticed before now. Your are correct, anyone who looks at the Fore Topsail bitts and the hatch between will wonder why the hatch is not centered. Onward, but I will take extra care next time making SURE I know where the centerline is when installing the coamings and such.
  10. cdrusn89
    Getting close to finishing the deck beams and related knees. I completed the first four deck beams forward and built and installed the Fore Topsail Sheet bitts. No real issues except I added a .025" phosphor bronze pin to hold the pin rail to the bitts. Probably not needed in this case since the pin rail and belaying pins are purely ornamental but it is a lesson I learned some time ago when the pin rail came off the bitts when I was tensioning a piece of rigging. Not a good time to try and repair something like that so I almost always use pins in addition to glue. So here is the forecastle - easy to see that I got the forward most hatch in a good bit off center. FYI my review of the pictures did not produce any more info on how I managed to get that far off but...
  11. cdrusn89
    It has been one of those days - my work laptop froze trying to install the latest MacOS upgrade and it appears I somehow got the forward part of the model out-of-center. On the model it started when I looked at the bowsprit bitts and the hole in the beakhead bulkhead when the bowsprit will fit. The two opening did not line up correctly. I took the hole in the beakhead to be "ground truth" as it appears to be directly behind the stem. I took a piece of line and looped it over the stem and ran it over the stern at what looks to be the center then looked down on the bow area. Based on this evidence (I tried my best to get the camera lease dead center over the line but...) it appears that I have the holes for the bowsprit bitts, the foremast and the hatch one plank too far to port. Not sure how I managed to do that but that appears to be what I did. Luckily, further aft at the main and mizzen the mast coats are centered under the line so what ever I did I apparently corrected it in the after portions of the deck. I am going to go back and look at the pictures I have and see if I can find the error but I will not spend too much time on that effort as I have a model to build. Since there was a false deck with all the locations for the structures marked I must have grievously misplaced the forward half somehow. Hard to be;lieve I could have been of an 1/8" but apparently I was/am. So I "fixed" the bowsprit bitts location and will adjust the hole for the fore mast. It looks like the mast coat will "cover" what needs to be done. It will be hard to notice I think since the guns are in different locations on each side and the beams, decking and boats stored will make itb really hard to see that the stove is a bit too far to starboard. Hopefully this is the last "unpleasant surprise" coming my way. FYI, after looking at the stove in place I went ahead and painted the rest of the bricks.
  12. cdrusn89
    Working from the bow aft now. I have assembled, thinned, painted and fit the outboard set of doors in the beakhead bulkhead. The instructions show painting both sides of the door even though the outboard side will be completely hidden by the "roundhouses (aka "seats of ease"). I decided this gives the option of which side to show if I mess one up gluing on the hinges and door knob. While those are drying from the final (hopefully) coat of paint I assembled the bowsprit bitt. I am not sure how I would have done this without the disk sander. As explained in the instructions the trick is to get the top and bottom of the opening sloped at what I think is approx 15 degrees. I used one piece cut in two for the upper and lower pieces with the "bevel" so I was sure they had the same slope (even if it is not exactly 15 degrees at least they are the same) on both top and bottom. I did as the instructions said and put pins in the bottom to help locate and support the bowsprit bitt. And here it is both showing the pins and receiving holes and installed (but not glued yet). I will glue it down after the doors are installed. With that completed I decided to finish the stove since that will be next after some more deck beams and knees. I had previously (I thought) gotten everything but the rotisserie installed. I found however, that there are three doors (and five hinges) on each side that I had over looked somehow (probably just tired of stove building at some point). Anyway I found the pieces and glued them on. I also got all the pieces of the rotisserie glued on and then painted everything one last time (hopefully). Here is the stove sitting on its foundation while the paint dries. The observant will notice that I have the "drive" mechanism on the port side of the stove - the instructions show it on the starboard side. I am assuming the cook's assistant is left handed. Actually in my haste I glued the shaft and the "drive" mechanism together before I realized that "it matters" which way they go together if you want it to look like the instructions. I was too lazy to fix the problem (even though there are several spare pieces on the photo etch sheet) so I put it on the other side. Looks okay to me - but then I am the captain so my opinion is the only one that COUNTS!
  13. cdrusn89
    Got the last on the knees installed and according to the instructions "This will complete the quarter deck framing and the fittings below it." Nuff said.
  14. cdrusn89
    Quarter deck framing completed (well, almost - I have the knees on the final two beams to complete). I even remembered to put the eyebolts in behind the guns. If I waited any longer it might have been a bit more difficult. I ordered more burnished split rings (3mm size) as I am reluctant to use the brass ones I have as my luck getting them to stay black (or even black-ish) does not inspire confidence. When it came to the carlings I took the coward's way out and thinned the 1/8" X 1/8" stock to 1/8" X 3/32". Besides, I think all of this is covered up by the quarterdeck decking unless you were planning to leave that off (which I am not). So here is the overall view. And a close-up of the main mast coat area.
  15. cdrusn89
    While looking at installing the Jeer bitts I found a minor issue with the plans. Sheet 4 (below) shows the bitts with the cleats on the sides. While sheet one appears to show the cleats on the fore and aft sides of the bitts. The instructions clearly show them on the port and starboard sides so that is where I put them. Also, although not marked in any way on the carrier sheet, there appear to be three each of the Jeer and Main bitts provided with the kit. The topsail sheet bitts are a mm or so shorter than the Jeer bitts although it would be easy to mix them up - don't ask me how I know. So here are the Jeer bits in place under the 11th Quarterdeck beam.
  16. cdrusn89
    Seven of the eight deck beams that go in front of the second bulkhead are installed. The Jeer bitts go under the next one and all I need are the small cleats on the sides and they will be ready. Not going to miss the knees much. My model is a little "off" the drawings since it seems my deck beams are pretty much dead center on the gun ports while the drawings show the beams are mostly in the aft half of the gun port. Makes my hanging (I think) knees slope more to clear the gun port which makes them harder to hold in position while shaping the knee to fit the bulwark. More fun up forward, three of the six beams are over the gun ports so more lopsided hanging knees coming up. Here is the "view from above" with as things stand now. The blue clamps are there to hold the covers on the companionways. When I blow the sawdust (and other debris) out they fly up kind of defeating the purpose.
  17. cdrusn89
    I decided to split my time between installing the quarterdeck beams and building the pumps and main/jeer bitts. Here is a set of knees waiting for trimming the "bolts" (aka monofilament fishing line - no need to dab black paint on the ends) and installation. And here are three (of the four) bitts being prepared for painting. The top one is as it comes off the carrier board The middle one is after most of the laser char has been removed and the bottom one is "finished" with molding continued around the non-lase cut sides. Wood is pretty "fragile" and keeping the corners "sharp" is a challenge (not always surmounted) . Bottom ones will get a final sanding (320 grit) before painting. Once these are finished it is back to the deck beams then on to the pumps.
  18. cdrusn89
    Slow going with the knees. 24 holes to mark and drill and "populate" for each beam. I think I finally got a system for the beams where the lodging knee has to be angled to clear the gun port (seems like every other one on my model). I cut an angle into the end of the beam to get the proper "set" of the knee and glue one end up before gluing in the beam. It is really hard (for me) to get the knee in place, aligned with the bulwark, and at least the same distance above the beam at both ends and still have another hand to lay some thin CA into the seams. If I can get one done "off-board" that cuts the frustration in half. So here are the first three of the eight beams forward of the second bulkhead, or the first six of the big beams under the quarterdeck.
  19. cdrusn89
    Next step (per the instructions) is to add eight more deck beams and the associated knees to the hull. So I cut and fit them and hopefully got them in without distorting anything. Not glued in yet. Will do that as I get the knees in place. Three knees need to be angled (slightly compared to the one between the bulkheads) to clear the gun ports. Now for the real fun - "the knees".
  20. cdrusn89
    Completed the safety lines on the two aft companionways and added the two capstan pawls on the platform.
  21. cdrusn89
    So I glued in the capstan that I assembled while waiting for the cannon carriages to arrive and then looked at the stanchions on the photo etched sheet. Not really very sophisticated a flat short "stick" with a flat circle on the top. I wonder just how easy will it be to bend one of these out of shape after they are installed. So I looked through my parts locker and found enough brass stanchions that are very close to the same length as the ones on the sheet. I believe they came from BlueJackets sometime ago and luckily I have enough for all the stanchions around the companionways. The bad news is these stanchions are set up for two rows of "railings" rather than the single row in the kit supplied material. The instructions also would make the railings out of 28 ga wire rather than line. For these stanchions I think line is going to work better (holes in the end are much smaller than on the kit supplied items). And since these stanchions have two sets of holes I will rig two rows of safety lines around these companionways. Here is a shot with the capstan and both sets of stanchions in place and the line for the first set of safety lines in place ready for tightening. I have not decided yet whether to try and make the lines straight (no sag) or have a slight sag to them. I really do not want to have strain on the stanchions as they are not that strong and I might bend one (or more) in the straightening process. After playing around with the safety line I figured out that getting a more or less similar "sag" in all six lines was a "bridge too far" and decided to get the lines as "straight" a reasonably possible. Here is the aft companionway with the cover removed and the safety lines in place.
  22. cdrusn89
    Here is the second bulkhead in place - not yet glued in place but that is next. Capstan (already built, and stanchions around the hatches next. I have not decided yet whether to use the stanchions included in the photo etched sheet or find something else.
  23. cdrusn89
    Finally all the gun port doors are finished. Now on to the sweep port door hinges. And here they are: With the exterior now as complete as it will be for awhile I can shift full attention back to the deck beams and other interior details.
  24. cdrusn89
    I thought I got the gun port doors ready for installation but when it came time to actually glue them in place I was 12 for 14 (still enough to be MVP in either league). The second door just didn't fit as well as I remembered and number 12 the planks were way out of line. Not sure what I was drinking the when I did that one but I hope I have some left. Here are the 12 doors that I did install - building new ones for #2 and 12 - then paint, W-o-P and eyebolt - then maybe I can move back to the deck beams and knees after I put the hinges on the sweep and ballast ports of course. I did install the first beam/hanging knee combo forward of the aft bulkhead as well as the speaking tube and lines for the wheel. I have to fab the other speaking tube base and install the mast coat and the four eyebolts around it. Speaking of the speaking tube base, the picture in the instructions shows it round, but the drawings shows it rectangular. I went with the drawing since making really round disks is not my specialty. Here is how it looks so far.
  25. cdrusn89
    I put another coat of W-o-P on the gun port doors, added the hinges and am in the process of adding the eyebolts. Rather than use the eyebolts that I have left over from the gun carriage tackle I made some new, smaller ones (34 gauge wire with .025 diameter eye) for the gun port doors. I find it difficult to believe that the same size eyebolts would be used in both places since all the gun port door eyebolt has to hold up in the gun port door, not haul around a 12 pounder gun and gun carriage. Anyway, I got one done (after-most gun port) and could not resist seeing how it looks installed. Pay no attention to the saw dust on the wales or the dents in the door and the gap at the bottom. I may try and sand down the forward part of the lower end of the door to make it more even but will wait and see how the rest of the doors look. I also have to add the hinges to the sweep port doors and the hinges on the ballast port door.

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