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Everything posted by cdrusn89
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To maximize the "pre-outfitting" (a term used in US Navy shipbuilding in the 1980/90s) I decided to install the various cleats shown on the plans on the ceiling planking before the planking sections are installed on the hull. I got he six mooring cleats from the kit and used some 5mm cleats that I had gotten from Syren Ship Modeling for a previous build but did not use them all. Smoothing out and painting tohe mooring cleats was no issue but getting the laser char off the 5mm cleats was a real pain, plus there are 11 of them on each side. I think I spent more time filing off char and then putting on a coat of clear flat on the 22 cleats than I did masking and painting the hull. Here are the cleats in the storage box waiting for me to finish painting the ceiling plank sections.
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I finished up painting the bulwark trim pieces and the plank-sheer, waterways and interior plank trim pieces - all went well with the new airbrush - at least so far. Here is another shot of the masking to paint both inside and outside in one session.
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I got a new Paasche Talon airbrush yesterday ( I did not care for my existing Paasche VL siphon feed airbrush and I took my instruction with a Talon soooo) and this is my first attempt at using it ( after practicing on some paper and blank wood). I masked off the wales (they will be hand painted black) and the top of the frames (a 1/32" X 3/32" trim piece (painted black) will be glued here) and the far side. I will likely go over this again as I was not all that pleased with the paint (too thin I think) and need to get better coverage of the plank-sheer in the way of the gun ports (although this will get additional coverage when the waterways, plank-sheer and ceiling trim pieces are painted red later).
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I decided that since I have built the ceiling planking separate from the framing that it would be prudent to add the eyebolts and breech tackle rings for the gun tackle and the cleats (mooring and "regular") to the ceiling planking before installation. So I made up 32 (plus a few) sets of eyebolts with 1/8"split rings and blackened them along with a similar number of plain eyebolts that will be installed on the ceiling planking sections. It is my intention to build a jig (probably two - one for each side) to ensure the eyebolts and breech tackle rings are positioned correctly on each ceiling planking section. Here are the eyebolts and breech tackle rings drying after blackening.
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Thanks Ric - waiting for some "stuff" from Micro Mark to move forward. Good luck with the row boat.
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With the bulwark and ceiling planking sections competed it is time to paint the waterway, plank-sheer and the trim boards around the gun and sweep ports. I put on two coats of primer by brush with a light sanding w/400 grit between coats and 600 grit after the second. Then I got my courage up and made another pass with my new airbrush. It came out pretty well so I hit that with some 800 grit and am now considering whether to put the red on with the airbrush. I still need to do some more clean-up on the stern so will have some time before I have to make that decision. Also need to get the yellow and dark green out to put the finish coats on the bulwark and ceiling planking sections.
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Completed the port ceiling planking sections. Bulwark and ceiling planking now completed - now to paint and assembly them all. As I have said before I would probably have assembled each of these sections (at least the ones with the rectangular gun ports) as complete units (framing and planking) off ship and then installed them as finished (painted) units if I had looked ahead in a more timely mann er. Something I will consider wen I move to the next project (Syren).
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Here is a picture of the back side of the starboard forward most ceiling section showing the slits cut into the 1/64" plywood to which the ceiling planks are glued to make it bend more easily. Also shows that the planking is slightly larger than the plywood to allow for final adjustments without impacting the plywood.
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Starboard side ceiling planking is complete. Sections are just sitting in place. Need to paint and install the upper stringer and paint the waterway, plank-sheer and edge timbers then paint and install both the bulwark planking and the ceiling planking "sections. Trying to decide whether to paint and complete the starboard side and then manufacture the ceiling for the port side or do that now and paint/install both sides together. Leaning toward doing both sides together but have that nagging fear that I have overlooked something that will come back to bite me later that doing the starboard side may reveal before it is too late to correct on the port side. Something to consider at least overnight. Just noticed in the picture that I have to bevel the plank-sheer and waterway on the starboard side. looks like I did the port side but forgot about the starboard. Another thing to do before painting.
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Knowing what I know now I would be tempted to build most of the bulwark "modules" off ship, including the planking on both sides and then glue the modules onto the keel/bulkhead framework. Since all of the modules connect to at least one bulkhead, getting them in the correct place should not be too difficult. Have the 3/32 X 3/32 top rail clamped in place as well to provide an additional reference. Would certainly make adding all the "end pieces" easier and probably more accurate. Trying to accurately glue a 3/!6 X 3/64 X 3/64 piece onto the sweep port framing (and doing it 36 times from across the hull was more fun than I am willing to have on a frequent basis.
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I decided that before I got too far along planking the ceiling I needed to get the inside stringer installed so I would have an upper limit for the ceiling planking. I am using 1/16" X 3/32 boxwood, painted red, per the instructions but first need to get it bent to the rail contour. With the stringer clamped to the inner rail (added per instructions from several build logs) I took advantage of the situation and got five of the ceiling sections completed. I will probably leave the stringer there while I do the rest and paint and install it when I have the ceiling sections done. I used a 1/64" plywood (and only 1/32' planking) for the forward most section - I also used my hobby table saw to cut grooves in the back side of that piece to make it easier to bend, with it soaked in water and the grooves I clamped it in place - we will see how well it holds its shape after priming and painting.
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Thanks Ric. I am not having much "fun" working with the airbrush - at least not yet.
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When I looked at the stern I decided to plank it "in place" and paint by hand. Sooo I had to apply the first paint to the ship - the red framing pieces around the stern gun ports. So here she is .... Sorry about the lighting - may have to invest in some flood lights by the paint booth.
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After what seems like a long time I finally have the bulwark planking sections completed. Here are the port and starboard pieces awaiting priming and painting before being installed (actually the stbd forward most piece is drying on the hull after being soaked and clamped in position). I also need to paint the wales (I have both pieces of 3/64s material installed) black (by hand) before installing any of the bulwark planking. But before any of that I am going to plank the ceiling and stern. Probably easier without the bulwark getting in the way and another opportunity to mess up something that was previously "done".
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Darrell, I got a Paasche VL and several spare needles and nozzles. All I need now is practice, practice, practice.
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While waiting for the glue to dry on the upper and lower wales on the port side I added the 3/64" square port framing on the interior of the port side. By the time both sides are done inside and out I should be pretty good at gluing really small pieces to the bulwarks. Airbrush was delivered today and I am "messing around" trying to get the feel for how close to get and how much paint/air to use. Am going to have to come up with some way to hold the smaller parts (like the sections of bulwark planking) to keep them from blowing around while being painted - maybe double sided tape. Here are the port side interior framing under the clamps.
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I completed fabrication of the bulwark planking (outside) for the starboard side except the more complex portion forward of the forward gun port. I am considering using a "carrier sheet" of 1/64" plywood to hold the planking as was done by Ken (aka XKen) in his build log. I have not done this before but DO have a supply of 1/64" plywood (which by the way is not cheap) on hand in anticipation of this eventuality. Anyway here is what the "easy" part looks like on the starboard side. I still have to add the port framing on the port side and fabricate the bulwark planking for that side and then tackle the inside. The panels are just setting in the proper places here. Nothing gets glued in until the bulwark and framing have been painted.
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I completed all the framing on the starboard side and decided to see what the best way of planking the outer bulwarks would be. Given that the framing around the ports is supposed to be red and the outer bulwarks are yellow I was trying to avoid having to paint the thin frames or paint the bulwarks without getting paint on the red frame. As was done on a previous build log, one solution is to build the bulwark planking in sections that are painted before they are mounted on the hull. That way the framing can be painted before the bulwarks are planked and (in theory) the painted bulwarks mounted and everyone lives happily ever after. Since my new airbrush comes tomorrow and I spent last weekend going to "Airbrush 101" I thought this would be a opportunity to try my hand at using a airbrush to paint the bulwarks before they are mounted. So I started building the bulwark planking "modules". Below are the first three. Hopefully I will get better as I go along.
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Similarly for the sweep port framing although I did not use any CA on these and tried to keep the glue only where the frame would remain after trimming.
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I found the 1/32 X 1/32 material supplied with the kit was "dimensionally challenged" so I decided to use some boxwood I had of the same size. I did the gun ports first, using wood glue along the support or stanchion and a drop of thin CA at the bottom where the gun port frame meets the upper wale. I cut the pieces long and then trimmed to the top of the port using a new Xacto chisel blade. I used the wide blade so I could get both sides of the port at one time. Hopefully this will reduce the chance of cutting them to different lengths. Picture below shows the gun port framing clamped in place while the wood glue sets. As has been said before in this forum "you can never have too many clamps".
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Sanded down the starboard side and installed the 3/64 X 3/32 "upper wale". Having previously filled in the gap between the laser cut planksheer and the outer mold line paid off here as there were no additional gaps encountered. Will work on the 1/32 X 1/32 filler pieces around the ports now.
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Completed the gun port and sweep port framing. Not a difficult task once I got the hang of it. I tried to keep any excess material on the outside to make it easier to remove before the bulwark planking begins.
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Ric - are you going to plank over the sheet wood? I got all the sweeps and gun ports done on the stbd side and hope to get the port side done tomorrow and (hopefully) start planking the outer bulwarks.
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Got the gun ports framed, including the canted one for the long guns forward. Started on the sweep ports but trying to cut pieces of 1/8 X 1/8 (or 3/32 X 3/32) to 3/16" in length was "too hard". Try as I might I could not get them consistent enough to keep the port square. So I looked through my pile of wood and found some 3/16 X 1/8 boxwood. So now I cut the horizontal pieces overly long and cut two pieces of the 3/16 X 1/8. I use thin CA to attach one of the 3/16 X 1/8 piece between the two horizontal pieces (on a piece of parchment paper). Then use the template to properly position the other 3/16 X 1/8 piece. I carefully withdraw the template and hit the other side with the CA. Now, I measure and mark the center of the sweep opening and the center of the just created sweep port and using a disk sander incrementally adjust the horizontal pieces until they fit between the verticals. I generally try to keep the material that is in excess of the bulkhead thickness on the outside of the hull to make it easier to remove. I am guessing that getting the inside smoothed out is not going to be as easy as the outside.
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Ric - welcome aboard. I have some travel (hate to call it vacation; I am retired so every day is vacation) in August and September that will slow progress. That and the seemingly never ending "orders from Headquarters". Hope to have the hull completed before we leave in mid-August.
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