TannumIan
-
Posts
25 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Recent Profile Visitors
549 profile views
-
JacquesCousteau reacted to a post in a topic:
Swift 1805 by Pastor Wes - Artesania Latina - 1/85 - pilot boat - first build
-
An option is to make new parts out of laminated 0.5mm (0.020") birch plywood. Only glue together once the laminated parts are bent in position or close to it. Here is my replacement plywood of some pin rails that broke. Ian
- 12 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Swift
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
-
TannumIan reacted to a post in a topic:
Kits to start with and avoid?
-
yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
I have decided to assemble and paint all the PE and cast parts in 1 or 2 batches. There are many hours filing to clean the s...alloy cast parts but the end result will be worth the effort. Below are some photos of the portholes and rudder ready for etch primer.
-
Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
For something different, I am building the smaller parts into final assemblies. Below are the hatches and light/vent boxes. The PE parts are stainless steel and much easier to work than brass that must be annealed to avoid work hardening and cracks. Paint finishes are a regular topic so I have included what I used on the PE parts - generally what I have for the plastics car models. The SMS Etch Primer was the first coat on the metal followed by grey surface primer and then white lacquer. I have always used Mr COLOR Leveling Thinners for lacquer and acrylic paints. The leveling thinners was a game changer for my car finishes where a little sanding with 1500 - 5000 grit sandpaper before the cutting polishes produces an excellent result.
-
Yves, Phil Thank you for your kind words. The stylish lines of the hull will only get better when painted with gloss black. I am also considering only having the standard rigging or maybe one or two sails. Does anyone have an opinion on not installing the running rigging and sails. Thanks
-
Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic:
BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75
-
The decking is now complete and ready for the perimeter trimming .
-
CHANGE of PLAN I started this build as a learning exercise as it had plenty of planking and rigging. The end result was not expected to be that good and would have probably ended up in the bin. However, the hull when painted will be satisfactory so I have decided to keep the model when finished. To that end I have acquired an old AL Virginia kit that I will use for some rigging practice and hopefully do a reasonable job of the BELEM rigging. Progress so far has been fairing the hull and making some of the smaller components. I have decided against trying to paint a timber finish onto the plywood parts and just used some Golden Teak stain for the finish. Next steps are the decking and preparing the hull for paint. I have to find a way to airbrush the port holes without sending them into some endless orbit. The plan is to use an etch primer before the main color.
-
TannumIan reacted to a post in a topic:
What tools are most useful - what should I buy next?
-
The hull is complete ready for paintings and fitting the interior.
-
With the planking complete I have removed the hull from the strong back. The strong back was slowly whittled away to release the hull as gently as possible. I then put thin CA on the frames where the plywood had fractured from the cutting action. Next step will be using the dremel to cleanup to hull and frames. I think I am now past the point of a major accident destroying the hull. The hull weighs 2 grams or 0.07 oz.
-
Planking is progressing well. I am using Gorilla Super Glue GEL to fix the planks to the frames and 400 grit sandpaper to shape the planks.
-
The tender is part of the Artesania Latina BELEM 1:75 kit. While this build is not overly complex the challenges will be with component sizes (for me anyway). Moderators, if this topic is not suitable for a build log, please delete. Photo from the AL website The frames are mounted on a strong-back for the planking process. A keel and some 0.45mm planks complete the parts list.
-
A major milestone is reached - Planking is now complete so the filling and final fairing can start. I have placed the cabin and masts in position to get an idea of the hull shape. This is a feel good look rather than any build planning. In 50 years of modeling this is the most challenging item I have made. Like balsa, sharp tools are a pre-requisite to aid in the best outcome to any wood machining. I have read in build logs to treat every plank as an individual project. This is so true. Tonight will be spent studying the manual to determine all the holes that require drilling in the hull. I think it will be be best to do now rather than later. The stern has nice curves. The 2mm² planks were very flexible after some steam treatment and only required rubber bands to hold them in position while the glue dried. My wood filler has suffered from old age so tomorrow I am off to Bunnings (aussie Home Depot) for some Poly filler.
-
The lower hull planking is now complete. It was a steep learning curve that just had to be done to get some practical exposure to planking. While the result is a bit rough it is suitable for filling and painting black. Next step is to complete the upper hull planking.
-
The hull planking is divided into 3 bands of 5 planks. Full width planks of 5mm will taper to 3.6-4.0mm at the stern and stem. As this is my first planking effort, the bands around the keel will be fitted first where they are least visible. I have finished the planks with thinned Wattyl sanding sealer to stop any dirt and grime buildup on the timber before fairing the hull. This sanding sealer powders well when sanded without clogging the sandpaper. The next big job is to build a quick release plank vice. The vice shown below is slow and tedious to use. The Veritas Miniature Block Plane shapes the planks with ease until you meet some of that curly grain. I keep the curly grain planks for straight lengths as it refuses to bend and be seated with accuracy. While this jig is functional, it is slow to get the plank out for measurement and back to the jig. I have some of these toggle clamps to use in the new plank jig. Hopefully I will get this done before XMAS when the noise and time constraints start.
-
Hello from Queensland Australia. My past has been with model Radio and Control Line aircraft. The Control Line models were scratch built F2B and Class B Teams racers. Recent years have also produced over 20 plastic cars and armour models Its now time for a change as I have been retired for a few years now and have time to devote to model ship building. I am currently have an AL Belem build in progress. It was chosen to get knowledge and experience with model ship building (and it will fit in my glass display cabinet). The AL BELEM build log has been created at BELEM by TannumIan - Artesania Latina - 1:75 Ian
-
An invaluable tool. This old low angle plane was sharpened to 2000 grit using a Veritas sharpening jig. The plane was also flattened on a sheet of glass and many sheets of 400-800 sandpaper. Notice the fine shavings from the planks that were trimmed. The plane will be used to tapper the planks as the finish if far better than a knife or sandpaper. For curved planks the Veritas Miniature Low Angle plane is an excellent plane. Ready for lining out and planking.
Our Emblem ®
