NenadM

Best part of week is always - Friday afternoon. My principle is, on that day, from 17h to sleep - absolutely do nothing connected with my job or with house works. Sunday and Saturday are long enough for homeworks
 
Returning from job, go shopping, eat, slumber a little, and when Admiral start watching TV I go down to shipyard.
 
Earlier in the day, I printed Campbell`s plans, and start to study them
 
There are 34+4 white panels on each side. When I re-scaled them to my model, each section will be 13 mm, and each white panel 8 mm long and 1,5-2 mm wide
 
Waiting for sadolin I put on strips 2 x 5 x 500 mm to dry, I made little tool for get equal groove for each section
 

 
And final countdown - rehearsal of the play starts
 
I put a strip in tool and cut it to dimension (13 mm) and align ends not to peep
 

 
With Dremel tool I dig a groove using hole as a template
 
 

 
Then make a panel from veneer and glued it in groove
 

 

 
with sandpaper slightly slanted edges to make a room for the piles made from toothpick   glued  whole attempt     Cheeking size and scale
 

 
It seem to be OK, and the testing is successful   Tomorrow real work begins ( I hope. Admiral is talking something about she have seen in store brand new fountain for the courtyard for  50€ ??????)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/272-cutty-sark-by-sailcat-revell-plastic-196-rescue-kit-bash-morphed-to-dame-tisane/
 
 
this build may give you some ideas.......even if it is in plastic.   enjoy!

Once again – a large hiccup in between posts. In my job, financial year end = auditors = lots of stupid questions = even more paperwork.
 
Result – very little time to even look at MSW, never mind getting my build log up to date.
 
Thought I was safe as well when a certain friendly attorney went on holiday. Realised he was back and looking for me again….(where did the time go?)
 
So – to chart some more progress BDD (Before Extended Dry Dock period). So far – everything’s looking good, right?
 
Yeah, right. I haven’t revealed yet what lies just out of camera shot…I’m covering the good bits first, in the hope that, when I do reveal the MAJOR BLUNDER, that this can be used as mitigating evidence – and hopefully I won’t be expelled from the forum (For the most extreme and unrecognizable build ever, or worst impersonation of a ship)
 
The photo below shows the fore-deck (also called anchor deck in the Ins&@cti!#ns). Planking went easily – although here I laid full strips, as I finally started thinking ahead – of fittings to come, and I thought I may just have a join in a plank veneer where I don’t want it. It was also now that I skipped ahead several pages in the Ins&@cti!#ns, to where the deck trim had to be installed. I was really keen to see how I would cope with a very small strip ( here about 2mm) being made into a fairly tight bend.
 
Not too bad – even if I say so myself. Only problem was a bit of burning on the one piece – either held it too long on the soldering iron, or the wood wasn’t wet enough, or all three..visible on the photo – the left side piece. Hopefully nothing that some carefully applied sandpaper won’t correct…
 
I also went ahead and opened the two small holes in the deck, for the anchor winch installation (in the future).
 
Here are 2 views of the fore-deck. Apologies again for the camera angle – but again the guy was doing me a favor. Composition doesn’t seem to be his strong point!

Dang...sorry about the link...I do have some other images you may find useful.

Nenad,
 
Hopefully, you can enjoy the fortress and maybe find some inspiration.   Are there any pictures on the Cutty's website that you could use to get an idea of the size and number?  Or maybe email them and ask?
 
One of the builders around here on MSW: KimatHm is very knowledgeable on the CS.  Try PMing him..

detail........detail........what to include in a model?   this is a bit of detail that is rarely done,  given the scale-down between the cap rails and the pin rails.   more detail is shown to be structual,  rather that decorative.  I do agree that it would be a cool thing to do mock-ups of different aspects ........then of course, to scale it down for the build.   it is a cool bit of detail though......if you can see it,  then it should be shown

Autumn comes, and garden/yard works get smaller  ...  more time for hobby. Saving neighbor from Admiral`s monster rose who migrated to him, play with my old dog (14 years, dont see and dont hear anymore ...)
 

 
and run in the workshop
 
Fore deck is mounted, and I concluded that next is upper bulwark, and ..... white ornaments inside
 
 

 
Today main fun was,  try to find a way and method to do this ( strip is only 5 mm wide ... and white detail ... max 2 mm) 
 
Of course, nothing in plans
 
Thinking, thinking, thinking ... and a flash ....
 
Make helping tool - mask, use Dremel, and ... gnaw recess 0,5 mm deep and put into prepared veneer strip .... sand a little ... and YES - that is that
 
Also I put different profiled slices for vertical piles .... obviously they must be thinner 
 
Here are today attempts ( not in scale, only to try technique) with sliding toll for mask I made, in front
 
Next is to research how many this white parts are there to try to calculate right scale ... and after two hours on net, I establish that NOBODY on internet never had counted this on real CS !!!
 
Happy me
 
Any idea ????
 

 

 
Tomorrow on 2-3 day trip again, and there will be time to research ( I hope ...) in the evening .... 
 
And maybe for fortress

Autumn comes, and garden/yard works get smaller  ...  more time for hobby. Saving neighbor from Admiral`s monster rose who migrated to him, play with my old dog (14 years, dont see and dont hear anymore ...)
 

 
and run in the workshop
 
Fore deck is mounted, and I concluded that next is upper bulwark, and ..... white ornaments inside
 
 

 
Today main fun was,  try to find a way and method to do this ( strip is only 5 mm wide ... and white detail ... max 2 mm) 
 
Of course, nothing in plans
 
Thinking, thinking, thinking ... and a flash ....
 
Make helping tool - mask, use Dremel, and ... gnaw recess 0,5 mm deep and put into prepared veneer strip .... sand a little ... and YES - that is that
 
Also I put different profiled slices for vertical piles .... obviously they must be thinner 
 
Here are today attempts ( not in scale, only to try technique) with sliding toll for mask I made, in front
 
Next is to research how many this white parts are there to try to calculate right scale ... and after two hours on net, I establish that NOBODY on internet never had counted this on real CS !!!
 
Happy me
 
Any idea ????
 

 

 
Tomorrow on 2-3 day trip again, and there will be time to research ( I hope ...) in the evening .... 
 
And maybe for fortress

awwwwww...that's not a biggie.......ships are full of cost overruns and oversights     just scale 'er down a little and you'll be fine 

After two hours,, there is bright new forecastle deck with space under to put there stuff what have to be there



 
 
Obviously some mistakes can be resolved ....

After two hours,, there is bright new forecastle deck with space under to put there stuff what have to be there



 
 
Obviously some mistakes can be resolved ....

After two hours,, there is bright new forecastle deck with space under to put there stuff what have to be there



 
 
Obviously some mistakes can be resolved ....

Thanks Nenad.  I figured that an engineered hull could more easily be re-engineered to my models specs then could be achieved from beginning from scratch. The desire to expedite my build and my ability to modify existing kit hulls to my purpose fuels my enjoyment and saves me loads of scratch building hours.  I think the labor has been quite convincing.
 
I plan on doing the exact same thing(converting the Revell CS hull) into my next build the clipper Donald McKay..after I'm finish with the Glory of the Seas.
 
 
 
Rob

And my carved figure.

One of her deck amidship.

I enjoyed building my Cs in just under 3 months.....I hyper detailed her and set her in a diorama of a factual event...getting her jurry rigged rudder replaced.

Nenad,
 
Some time ago I uploaded a number of Cutty Sark photos, taken in the nineteen eighties, to Skydrive. They contain numerous shots of the bulwarks. You can find them here.
 
Lou

Little progress today
 
I decided to cut off strips, which was good decision, and after extra puttying and sanding, lines of ship look better
 

 
But, better lines opened earlier mistake in its full size - bad angle and position of front deck
 

 
Obviously, it is necessary to take a sharp cut, and to remove front deck, and to remake it again
 

 
Little check of angle ...
 


 
It seem to be OK, but must wait putty to harden, and to "finish sanding" other side first 

Completion of repairs of front deck immediately leads to another "problem" that has significant implications for the way in the formation of the upper bulwarks
 
The research and problem solving is the beauty of this hobby, right?
 
As my plans, as usually,  do not provide an answer to a specific interior look of bulwarks, pursuing further research
 
Confusion bring some CS models whose images can be found on the Internet, especially in terms of interior design fore and aft bulwarks with decorations along whole upper bulwarks
 

 
Judging by the pictures, there are models that entirely ignore these decorations
 
 

 
And models with decorations only on middle section
 

 
 
On the other hand, photos of CS lead to conclusion  that only the central part of the upper bulwarks has white decorations (if the decorations)
 

Nenad,
 
I'm in agreement with Edward. Only if there's no other way to fix something should it be dumped.  But this is wood and wood can be fixed.  In this case, maybe a strip of wood glued over the planking? Or a bit of cutting and fitting?  I hope you can get to the fortress.  There's a lot of history in those walls.

Hi Nenad,
think twice about your decision to start again. Dumping a model means to dump all the efforts and hours spend on it, I do know from experience that mostly always something can be done to prevent the final step.

Hi Nenad,
 
I'm with Edward and Mark-think very carefully before you throw away 6 months work. In my opinion, taking these strips off and putting them on is not a big enough deal to start over.
 
That is one of the beauties of wood ship models-they are very reworkable (and often are).
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

I suppose most of my CS is scratch built;  as I only used the prefabricated bulkheads from the kit.  I downloaded the instruction manual from Billings, but I was not satisfied with them.
I do all my modeling from the Cambell plans now.

on plasrtic kits.......those two bottom lines are not there.   they don't even show that the hull was indeed plated all the way up to the bulwarks............painted black,  no one would be the wiser.   I wouldn't put either one in for this very reason.   scale would be another reason to consider........how small would those rails be?
 
builds are started with the best of ideas and intentions.   when left for periods of time,  some of the luster can become dulled or lost.  it makes getting back in the grove that much harder.  build your ships gentlemen.....with all that you can muster.   when they are finished,  you'll be all the more proud of what you've done..........all because you stuck with it. 

I too share the same dilemma;  I pre-painted my lines and installed them after painting the hull underneath, in order to avoid a lot of tedious masking.
I'm not sure that was a wise idea, because they are coming loose in places, requiring me to use ca glue, which discolors the paint, which leads to sanding and repainting....  (on and on...)  I have had many run-ins with fate or bad luck, (or drunken nights )with this ship, but I repair my many mistakes as best I can and keep plugging along.  I agree that the time invested is not worth restarting the build.  I try to view the mistakes I make as inevitable "battle scars" and will be proud of the ship, no matter what the "critics" may think!